90w gear oil
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CL350 Vintage racer project
- Thread starter Emlupi
- Start date
Nice
Too bad it isn't easier to get them in gray, it would look a tad more vintage. I did the same thing with my drag bike roller, black was cheaper and easier to find.
Yeah, that would be a nice touch. It mostly comes down to the easier to find element. Trying to find parts which will work along with other non-standard parts can be a challenge.
New diaphragms and jet needle kits for the carbs. The DSS diaphragms are definitely more expensive but they are made from a bit more substantial material. Will they perform better than kit items? We shall see.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
I also like the 750K 22 7/8" fork tubes;what length are your stock 33mm tubes ?
Stock 350 forks are 21-13/16”. I’m using the 750 triple clamps which are a little longer than the 350 so I figured I could use the extra length. Also I can move the fork legs up/down in the yokes to alter geometry.
Yeah. Unless you want to cough up the scratch for a custom cable, you’ve got to get creative sometimes.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
Will you be using clip-ons ?
I like having longer fork tubes to alter geometry also.
I also lengthened a side stand and my centerstand on the CB125/200S bike as I went from a 17 to 18" rear rim & longer Hagon rear shocks;installed a one size wider than stock front rim and tire and that helped to somewhat calm-down the quick steering 'twitching'.
A small hydraulic steering damper will help,when I find the correct one.
Cutting those stands is quite a challenge,to get the 'feet' of the stands to sit at the correct angle before getting them welded back on.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
With both rims at 18x2.50, it should be closer to the stock CB geometry, except for the differences in the steering or lower tree. The distance from the line of the axle to the point of rotation (caster or trail?), if different than the stock CB stem. It is interesting, but I get my terminology mixed up.
See post #303
The rims are 18x2.5 front and 18x3.0 rear. Rear shock length is 13.75”, longer than the stock CB dimensions. There will have to be some trial and error to get the geometry right with the different components. I’m working with racers and builders from the club to get things in the ballpark to get started. Still much to learn but that’s part of the fun of the whole project.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
This kind of stuff is not oft discussed. Thanks for sharing.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Great progress. I don't understand what emulators emulate. That, and fluid weight and volume are probably guarded track info. I thank you for these twinges of jealousy.
If you visit RaceTech’s website there is an explanation of exactly how the emulators work. Basically, these devices will allow a damper rod fork to work like cartridge forks and allow adjustment of the damping action of the front suspension.
Arcing the brake shoes for the buffalo 4LS drum using the LDR method. Personally, I found the 80 grit paper to be a little too aggressive for me. I went to a finer grit to allow for a smoother stroke.
I finished up by grinding a bevel into the leading edge of each shoe. In practice this should prevent the brake shoe from “digging” into the drum and sticking due to the self servo effect of this style of brake design.
Looks good
Definitely not the most fun operation for sure, never had to do it myself but I worked with more than a few road racers who did. Seems like an aircraft/locking nut should suffice, but as you said about them rules...
RobMan
Veteran Member
Are there a lot of fasteners that have to be safety wired? If so have you ever used safety wire pliers? They definitely can help speed up the process over doing it by hand.
I saw these at harbor freight pretty cheap.
www.harborfreight.com
Lot of videos on Youtube on how to use but this one explained the basics.
I saw these at harbor freight pretty cheap.
9 in. Safety Wire Twisting Pliers
Amazing deals on this 9 In. Safety Wire Pliers at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Lot of videos on Youtube on how to use but this one explained the basics.
Yes, there are a number of fasteners that are required to be safety wired.Are there a lot of fasteners that have to be safety wired? If so have you ever used safety wire pliers? They definitely can help speed up the process over doing it by hand.
I saw these at harbor freight pretty cheap.
9 in. Safety Wire Twisting Pliers
Amazing deals on this 9 In. Safety Wire Pliers at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Lot of videos on Youtube on how to use but this one explained the basics.
Yeah, I have the tools here. Having the proper tools for this job definitely makes it much easier to accomplish. Also, keep in mind, if you have to do any maintenance on these systems you will have to cut and rewire the fasteners at the track.
I fabricated this spacer to sit underneath the bottom steering bearing race. This, in conjunction with the All Balls spacers should give me the dimensions I need to fit the CB750 triple trees to the 350 steering head.
Yeah, it’s ugly as hell but it will serve the purpose.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Nice progressive springs.
Nice, I just received my pair as well a couple days ago. I see you ponied up for the best pair they sell with the infinitely adjustable springs and damping adjustments. I bought the base version, less expensive but they have to be better than the $60 Emgos on my 450 right now (which are stiffer than I'd like as well). Weather needs to warm up so I can get them installed and see.
Yes, I wanted to have the ability to adjust preload and damping to suit my needs. Their tech support is great and they will work with you to give you exactly what you want. Their shocks are built custom to your specifications.
I agree with you as regards the miserable weather. It has been ridiculously cold here and even with the heater on in the shop it’s not really comfortable to work in there. The older I get, the more I really despise the winter.
Yep, same here. Hard to believe I used to work on bikes and cars in these temps every single day for a few decades. I don't miss it one bit.
Unfortunately, I’m still slogging through the daily grind. After about 30 years as a construction and plant maintenance electrician, I’m now working in substations for a large utility. I’m the grumpy old b*st*rd who’s just plain old tired of the long hours in cold weather.
Yeah, I'd be the grumpy old ******* too if I still had to deal with that for months. Hurry up and retire already.
From your lips to God’s earsHurry up and retire already.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
just another day in paradise.
I suppose it can't hurt, but I was envisioning the race being further out than that.
This, coupled with the spacers which come with the AB kit, should give me what I needed.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Triple checked oilways? Don't forget the rubber sealing ball.
Looking good and just the right amount of Hondabond oozing out!
Looks good. Did you put some Hondabond around the clutch rod seal to help keep it from getting blown out of the crankcase? The 350 might be the twin that does it the most often. If not you can fab a plate to cover it.
I did not do that, I only greased the inner groove as advised by Stan Lipert. I intend to fabricate a retainer for the clutch rod and drive output seals. The rules call for a retainer for the output shaft but I will make it for both as advised by individuals here. I intend to secure it with a bolt into the hole formerly used for the neutral switch, which I won’t be using. Then I will lock wire it.
Installed Electrexworld batteryless self generating ignition. The stator mounting plate uses the factory gasket and a crankshaft oil seal. The stator and rotor run dry outside the engine case. The factory left engine case cover is being used for crash protection only. Quite a bit of modification is necessary to make it fit.
I also fabricated a crankcase breather out of an old oil filler cap. Should help to reduce pumping losses
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Red dots align for TDC? Then 60 degree increments at each little bump?
Left side piston is set to 45’ BTDC, then alignment of the red marks for proper timing. Stator mount is slotted to provide adjustability. There is a model that provides variable preset ignition curves with a push button to select but I opted for the base version set up for stock timing.
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ballbearian
Veteran Member
Wow. I'll just watch, as there's a lot I don't understand. 45 BTDC, is that max advance?
For those more curious about the product, it's here:
www.electrexworld.co.uk
I really like the left crankcase cover with crankshaft oil seal in place, I'm thinking of buying one for my 450 drag bike engine.
Honda CB350K4 CDI Ignition Stator Kit - STK-350D
Product Information Fitting Instructions Component List Warranty & Returns Race Ignition Kit Fits: Honda: CB350K4 High performance cdi ignition system for twin cylinder 4 stroke with a 180° crank. Self generating (no battery required) race ignition system, digital pre-programmed CDI producing...
I really like the left crankcase cover with crankshaft oil seal in place, I'm thinking of buying one for my 450 drag bike engine.
I haven't looked in the 350 FSM, but 45° does seem like more than stock.