South Florida 1967 CL160

I have not checked the tube, I will when I get the time to tinker with things. You think the seal it self is still good or a replacement should be sought?
I'd replace it, and to do that on your engine requires the left crankcase cover gasket as well since the clutch rod seal is behind the cover with the alternator stator in it. Once a seal has been pressed into the crankcase, it often takes a little bit of the rubber 'skin' off the outside (unless it was replaced during a bottom end overhaul, in which case it's put in position while the case halves are apart). That would mean the seal might not fit as tightly in the crankcase as it did when first installed, so it might come out again more easily.

As I've mentioned before, you can run a little overfull on the oil level safely (typically a half-pint or so in your situation), but you do want to make sure the breather tube is free of any kinked or restricted areas caused by passing through frame areas where it gets a bit squashed or compressed, or worse yet a mud dauber nest in the bottom of the tube where the pressure and vapors are supposed to exit under the bike.
 
Replacement seals should be arriving this week. Plan on doing some work on the bike once they arrive. Anything special need to be done or can I just clean up the area, replace the seal around the rod and check the tube?
 
I replaced the clutch rod seal and pressed it in with a thin layer of honda bond.

I tried to remove the red bolt...it's now stripped. The bolt next to it came out easily the bushing is hard and solid no cracks seen with it .The seal behind it did have oil on the outside of it. How can get the now stripped bolt out, and then remove the seal for replacement?

The blue arrow, gear shifter rod seal also had oil on the outside of it. How do i go about removing that seal for replacement?

Both seals seem to be solid in place. I bought the seals and with the oil on the outside of them figure they ought to be replaced.

And where exactly is the breather tube?

Any help is appreciated.
IMG_0258.jpg
 
The shift shaft seal is behind the washer and circlip, so remove those and then try to thread a drywall screw into the seal between the shift shaft and the outer edge. If you can get a drywall screw into the seal you can use it to pull the seal out. As for the screw at the end of the red arrow, when you say stripped do you mean it turns in the hole but won't back out? Or do you mean the head of the screw is now stripped and you can't turn it anymore?
 
The shift shaft seal is behind the washer and circlip, so remove those and then try to thread a drywall screw into the seal between the shift shaft and the outer edge. If you can get a drywall screw into the seal you can use it to pull the seal out. As for the screw at the end of the red arrow, when you say stripped do you mean it turns in the hole but won't back out? Or do you mean the head of the screw is now stripped and you can't turn it anymore?
The head is unfortunately srtipped. I used a JIS screw but the damn thing didnt budge. I will try the screw and hope for the best.

Where is the breather tube you mentioned?
 
That screw head is in one of the worst places. Sorry about your luck there. The bracket under the head is the contact for the neutral light and are hard to replace, so a steady hand is needed to try to get the screw out without further damage. Next, I would try like I said above but if that fails, try a 1/16" drill bit and turn one of the cross slots into a straight slot for a larger flatblade screwdriver. Definitely give it a soak with PBlaster too. I'm not sure that seal needs replaced anyway, so leaving it be for now is an option.
 
That screw head is in one of the worst places. Sorry about your luck there. The bracket under the head is the contact for the neutral light and are hard to replace, so a steady hand is needed to try to get the screw out without further damage. Next, I would try like I said above but if that fails, try a 1/16" drill bit and turn one of the cross slots into a straight slot for a larger flatblade screwdriver. Definitely give it a soak with PBlaster too. I'm not sure that seal needs replaced anyway, so leaving it be for now is an option.
I think leaving it be will be the option I go with. Will find out in a bit if I still have my original oil leak after the one seal replacement.
 
Alright I found it thank you. It has a hose connected to it that runs into the frame near the battery. I havent seen the end location of the hose. Does it need a hose? Does it have a connection at the end of the hose?
It's a crankcase vent hose (breather tube or hose, as it was referred to before emissions became a thing for these bikes) so you should find out what's at the other end as it should not be capped or plugged up. Blow-by gases inside the engine build some pressure in the crankcase and the engine vents that pressure out of that hose so it needs to be fully open on the other end. If the crankcase can't vent the blow-by pressure it can cause seals to leak or pop out of the crankcase.
 
It's a crankcase vent hose (breather tube or hose, as it was referred to before emissions became a thing for these bikes) so you should find out what's at the other end as it should not be capped or plugged up. Blow-by gases inside the engine build some pressure in the crankcase and the engine vents that pressure out of that hose so it needs to be fully open on the other end. If the crankcase can't vent the blow-by pressure it can cause seals to leak or pop out of the crankcase.
So I can cut it shorter to where the end is easily accessible without worry?
 
Hello all. Im looking for a replacement for chain 40530-216-000. Any recommendations or things to stay clear of?
 
The parts manual for the cl160s I downloaded off of here has it listed as 40530-216-000. Difference between the two?
Are you sure you got the parts manual here? I just looked at our library and I see 160 owner's manuals and service manuals but no parts manual. I found the listing above in the only section for a CL160 at Partzilla, and I looked there specifically because they tend to show how many links are in the chain. CMSNL usually doesn't show the number of links, which is helpful so you can potentially buy an exact fit if the sprockets are still stock size. Here's the CMSNL listing showing the part number but not the length.


Again, any quality 428 chain will fit the sprockets properly, just the length will need to be correct so you could buy any chain 104 links or longer and cut it to fit.
 
Final drive sprocket (rear wheel sprocket) could use replacing also. Should I be going off part number 41201-216-840?
 
Are you sure you got the parts manual here? I just looked at our library and I see 160 owner's manuals and service manuals but no parts manual. I found the listing above in the only section for a CL160 at Partzilla, and I looked there specifically because they tend to show how many links are in the chain. CMSNL usually doesn't show the number of links, which is helpful so you can potentially buy an exact fit if the sprockets are still stock size. Here's the CMSNL listing showing the part number but not the length.


Again, any quality 428 chain will fit the sprockets properly, just the length will need to be correct so you could buy any chain 104 links or longer and cut it to fit.
Initially it wasn't available when I asked, so it might not have been added to the library. But yes, Im looking at the download now and most certainly go it off here. I'll have to look back at my conversations, but pretty sure you sent it to me.
 
Initially it wasn't available when I asked, so it might not have been added to the library. But yes, Im looking at the download now and most certainly go it off here. I'll have to look back at my conversations, but pretty sure you sent it to me.
Wow, wonder where I got it from then... but with CRS I'll never know that answer.
 
Final drive sprocket (rear wheel sprocket) could use replacing also. Should I be going off part number 41201-216-840?
You can look for it that way but it might come down to counting the teeth and getting one from an aftermarket seller. I'm not sure if there's anything special about that rear sprocket like the 350 and 450 sprockets with the stud-bolts and machined channel on the back to accommodate the flat sides of the 'head' of the bolt. I've only worked on one 160 in my life so I'm not much help there.
 
You can look for it that way but it might come down to counting the teeth and getting one from an aftermarket seller. I'm not sure if there's anything special about that rear sprocket like the 350 and 450 sprockets with the stud-bolts and machined channel on the back to accommodate the flat sides of the 'head' of the bolt. I've only worked on one 160 in my life so I'm not much help there.
Are bolt patterns the same on all sprockets with the same number of teeth? If so, what are reputable aftermarket brands? Not looking for any lousy parts.
 
Are bolt patterns the same on all sprockets with the same number of teeth? If so, what are reputable aftermarket brands? Not looking for any lousy parts.
The bolt pattern will match the hub, the sprocket size is the only thing different. More teeth means a larger diameter, but using the same center arrangement.
 
After taking the rear wheel off to replace the rear sprocket, the rear brake is now getting stuck after engagement is released. I've adjusted the cable, but the brake lever just doesn't spring back into place like it did before removal. It let's off enough that the resistance isn't strong, but its definitely not completely disengaging until manual pushed back to release. Any tips?
 
I just looked at the Honda ID Guide and it shows 217 and 223 for the CB and CL160, 216 isn't even shown so that's a mystery too.
Many of my part numbers were the 216 and probably originally for the CB93 (125cc) version. The CB160 was also originally designated the CB96.
My very old parts book uses the old number system (which is a pain) and does show 2 different rear sprockets for the 125 and 160. This old book doesn't even have the CL in it.
 
After taking the rear wheel off to replace the rear sprocket, the rear brake is now getting stuck after engagement is released. I've adjusted the cable, but the brake lever just doesn't spring back into place like it did before removal. It let's off enough that the resistance isn't strong, but its definitely not completely disengaging until manual pushed back to release. Any tips?
Did you switch positions of the pivot cams? they may be binding, or the shoe retraction springs aren't right.
 
The hose like connection from the air cleaner to the right carb has completely fallen apart. I had salvaged it before, but it's beyond saving now. What needs to be done to the carbs if I end up going with modern filters? What has been used to replace the rubber connection?
 
The hose like connection from the air cleaner to the right carb has completely fallen apart. I had salvaged it before, but it's beyond saving now. What needs to be done to the carbs if I end up going with modern filters? What has been used to replace the rubber connection?
The filters came with the rubber boots and they are not available separately. I would attempt to coat them with several layers of Flex Seal liquid rubber and or take a stroll in the plumbing aisle looking for some flexible rubber drain couplings. Just finding filter frames in decent shape is pretty hard so any way you can make them seal to the carbs is a plus.
The 175 filters do fit but the mounting tabs could be off, so that is another issue.
I'm not a fan of pod filters and haven't done any re-jetting for that.
If you post some pics, you may get more creative input on solutions.
 
Hello all. The carbs on the bike keep clogging, even with new inline fuel filters. the interior of the gas tank needs some love, guessing the rust is dislodging and leading to issues. Anyone in south florida recommend anyone in south florida that can clean up and coat the interior of the tank? Very happy with the exterior condition of the tank and do not want to change that.

Also, going to actually start pulling the rest of the bike apart to go through things. What seals, nuts, bolts, ect. should I have on hand for replacement as I go through things?
 
Hello all. The carbs on the bike keep clogging, even with new inline fuel filters. the interior of the gas tank needs some love, guessing the rust is dislodging and leading to issues. Anyone in south florida recommend anyone in south florida that can clean up and coat the interior of the tank? Very happy with the exterior condition of the tank and do not want to change that.

Also, going to actually start pulling the rest of the bike apart to go through things. What seals, nuts, bolts, ect. should I have on hand for replacement as I go through things?
I think Evaporust is useful to remove the rust from inside your tank;fill it all the way to the top because the inner top of the tanks always gets rusty(air pocket).
 
Cleaning tank rust is a DIY thing. Get a big enough storage tub and a couple gallons of Rust911 (cheaper than Evaporust on amazon).

When you say storage tub, you mean submerge the entire tank exterior and all in the storage tank with the chemical? How long should this sit in the tank? After soaking in this fill the tank with water and let dry?Please explain process.
 
A tub only to contain any leakage. Rust 911 inside the tank only and the petcock in place and turned off with the cap on and tank filled to the brim. Follow instructions on the Rust 911 container. Most of these rust removers work better at room temperature so if it's kept indoors a containment tub seems like a good measure.
 
A tub only to contain any leakage. Rust 911 inside the tank only and the petcock in place and turned off with the cap on and tank filled to the brim. Follow instructions on the Rust 911 container. Most of these rust removers work better at room temperature so if it's kept indoors a containment tub seems like a good measure.
Tom, do you like it as good as Evaporust;how's flash-rust with Rust 911 ??
 
Tom, do you like it as good as Evaporust;how's flash-rust with Rust 911 ??
Can't say for sure, but others have had good luck with it. I'm set to mix up 16 gallons but am waiting for warm weather or a way to keep a large trash can inside to keep it warm for a whole Benly frame baptism.
Since I buy a whole gallon of WD40, I'll slosh around a dixie cup of it inside a tank to prevent or slow rust afterwards.
 
Back
Top Bottom