1976 XL350K2 - An Off and On Project

I expect not. It was a little weird because the person never identified themselves despite a couple of texts back and forth. That bike ain't for sale.

that is weird. Yeah, I wouldn't be selling it either. Once you get a lot of work in something it's harder to let it go.
 
The repairs done last summer to correct the shifting issues (mainly finding neutral) I was experiencing are holding up well -- I have had no trouble shifting into neutral, which is a huge relief. I have been using a very small 6V AGM battery from Batteries+ for the last few years and it did not survive the offseason. I rode it several times on the dead battery, since it produces enough power while running, but then my neutral indicator bulb went out and I guess it might have had to do with running the bike on a bad battery. So, I replaced the battery and the bulb and all is well.

I couldn't find a Free Air sign to match the pictures ballbearian recently posted, but I think in St. Louis the sign I found is more apropos.

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Bike looks really good, surprisingly the all black isn't too much. I always wondered why they didn't continue the silver frame theme that all (or at least most of) the SLs had previously, I guess they thought it was time for a change.
 
Bike looks really good, surprisingly the all black isn't too much. I always wondered why they didn't continue the silver frame theme that all (or at least most of) the SLs had previously, I guess they thought it was time for a change.

Thanks, Tom! I think a silver frame would still l have looked good. Maybe trying to change the image of the bike with the shift to a single or to compete with the other brands? Something money related is always a good guess!
 
I pulled a valve out of my spare head for a thread about choosing a valve spring compressor and figured it would be a good idea to check in about the condition of the valve and seat. Does this valve seem usable?

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Weather here is St. Louis is hovering in the 40s and 50s this week. Today I made my commute on the XL350 and was amazed that over 4+ years with this bike I never noticed that the trip meter toggles ON/OFF.

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The cracks on the plastic came with the bike!
 
Crazy, and though I've only ridden one of them long ago I did not notice the option either. Pretty cool if you want to save a particular measurement while out riding, though these days we'd just take a picture of it with our phones.
 
Does that trip odometer have a type of switch? which allows you to stop the function of it when you choose ?
First time to see one,for me.
 
Does that trip odometer have a type of switch? which allows you to stop the function of it when you choose ?
First time to see one,for me.
I should've figured that out before posting the picture, but I will give an update tomorrow. I am expecting it might be a push/pull to engage or disengage, but we'll see...

I found and purchased an Owner's Manual for the correct year on eBay a year or so ago and it shows the ON/OFF indicator without explaining its function.
 
Had to ride one of my bikes in the rain today. I think I chose the best bike for the job, but perhaps not the best attire. I don't really own any wet/cold weather gear, but I should have at least worn my dirt bike boots...

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I know the feeling well. I never spent money on rain gear when I was younger and riding every day, sometimes with no car as backup transportation at all, because back then a lot of rain suits didn't work well and you eventually got wet underneath anyway. I'd just put my clothes and shoes in a plastic bag, wear an old pair of jeans or work pants and sometimes only flip flops, then change in the bathroom at my destination. I hate to ride in the rain now, to the point that I just won't unless I get caught by surprise while already out and absolutely have to.

With no choke cable, you must be manually working the lever on the carb, or using a different carb. I notice you have a single cable throttle assembly too.
 
I hate to ride in the rain now, to the point that I just won't unless I get caught by surprise while already out and absolutely have to.
I'm with you there — car is unavailable today and I needed to get to work/school. Somehow I thought it was rainy lightly until I felt a stream reach the inside of my left shoe as I was reaching the halfway point.

Fenders are good.

With no choke cable, you must be manually working the lever on the carb, or using a different carb. I notice you have a single cable throttle assembly too.
I'm running a Mikuni VM32 on this bike with the manual starting circuit lever on top of the carb. This forced me to change the throttle cable setup as well.
 
I'm running a Mikuni VM32 on this bike with the manual starting circuit lever on top of the carb. This forced me to change the throttle cable setup as well.
I suspected as much, though it's been a while since I read this thread and couldn't remember (and didn't do my due diligence either). There's probably a Honda single cable that would adapt to your Mikuni so the stock throttle assembly could be used, but I'm sure you're well past that at this point.
 
There's probably a Honda single cable that would adapt to your Mikuni so the stock throttle assembly could be used, but I'm sure you're well past that at this point.
At the time, I couldn't find one, probably because I didn't know where to look, so I worked with what I could find. I'd consider going back if I could get a suitable cable. I haven't looked recently.

I know you must have the 1-to-2 variety on your red 450. I used one of those briefly with my CB450 before returning to the Keihin's.
 
Yeah, I had to use a CB175 cable (IIRC) with the Mikunis on the 450, and still had to peel off a few wraps of outer cable to make the inner cables the length needed for the connections to the slides. I still need to find a longer upper half for the cable to properly route it, but it works as it is and I've been lazy about revising it because of that.

I'm wondering if an SL/XL125 or XL175 cable might work for your situation. The XL250 had dual cables like your 350 did so that's out. Or an SL175 (CB and CL might be the same) with one lower half cable removed.
 
Yeah, I had to use a CB175 cable (IIRC) with the Mikunis on the 450, and still had to peel off a few wraps of outer cable to make the inner cables the length needed for the connections to the slides.
My current setup required similar mods. I'll have a look at what's available and report back.
 
My current setup required similar mods. I'll have a look at what's available and report back.
Or just leave it as is if you're okay with the way it works now. I was just thinking of you getting back to the original right switch and throttle assembly.

EDIT: I just noticed you added the aftermarket throttle to the end of it all so you still have the original right switch, smart.
 
I remember once finding a source/supplier of cable wire, housing, ferrules, fittings and the lead ends for custom cable fabrication. Unfortunately I didn't save it. There are times I would definitely consider making my own (spongy aftermarket front drum cables).
If anyone knows of a good supplier....
 
I remember once finding a source/supplier of cable wire, housing, ferrules, fittings and the lead ends for custom cable fabrication. Unfortunately I didn't save it. There are times I would definitely consider making my own (spongy aftermarket front drum cables).
If anyone knows of a good supplier....
Venhill https://www.venhillusa.com/
Looks like Flanders Cables is gone now.
 
Yesterday I started up the XL350 and was going to ride it to a friend's for Easter before I noticed that the tail light was vibrating around much more than normal. The bracket has fallen victim to fatigue (and likely a few bumps and bruises over its lifetime) and, being of a similar vintage, I can relate. I am going to replace the bracket, but may try welding this one at some point down the road.

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I ordered a reproduction from Thailand through eBay and received an interesting message from the seller, vintage_001. They are [primarily] looking for original versions of seat covers, spokes, and luggage racks for a variety of vintage motorcycles and ATVs and seem to be offering a free reproduction to those who donate an original for them to copy. I don't think I'm in position to participate, but I found it interesting. Had they said CB450 spark advance springs I would be all over it!
 
Interesting to see the bracket crack despite being held with grommets and shouldered bolts. Rubber in the grommets hardens with age and I agree that general fatigue from being almost 50 years old combined is likely why.
 
I ordered a reproduction from Thailand through eBay and received an interesting message from the seller, vintage_001. They are [primarily] looking for original versions of seat covers, spokes, and luggage racks for a variety of vintage motorcycles and ATVs and seem to be offering a free reproduction to those who donate an original for them to copy. I don't think I'm in position to participate, but I found it interesting. Had they said CB450 spark advance springs I would be all over it!
They ship fast via DHL and communicate well. They replaced a clutch cable quick and didn't even want the wrong one back. I got the same message about pattern parts and wonder if they'd be interested in a list of unobtainium parts, like your springs, or say, rear CA77 sprockets.
 
I got the same message about pattern parts and wonder if they'd be interested in a list of unobtainium parts, like your springs, or say, rear CA77 sprockets.
I wonder. I figured they already have certain logistics worked out for the items they listed, but I imagine they might be interested in expanding operations.
 
I like the title of your thread being an 'Off and On project' ;)
I purchased a bike last October that needed parts and labor;I never planned on having it be an Off and On Project,but with the bike being outside(no shop,just a parking space)under a cover with all the rain that's been coming down all Winter,etc.
The other thing was a scammer selling me parts in Oct. for 1/2 the price and me waiting 5 months until I reported them to my bank. They were 'stringing me along' with 'the parts being on a ship' and tracking showing all the different locations the ship was in now (n)

I am catching up on the progress now,weather not withstanding. :rolleyes: :unsure:
 
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No response to the eBay inquiry, but I am amazed that after ordering the new bracket on Monday morning, it arrived on Thursday afternoon. The bracket is intended as a replacement for several models and matches up closely where it counts, i.e., where it mounts to the rear fender and where the tail light housing mounts to the bracket. It seems no sturdier nor any flimsier than the original and did not come with any rubber vibration dampeners or any of the mounting hardware. The included tail light housing does not have a built-in spot for a ground, so I opted to swap the original housing onto the new bracket. The lens looks like it would be a direct replacement for the original.

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I kind of like the fact that this bracket is black rather than chrome, which suits the paint on the bike. I'm glad this product was available.

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Based on an experience I had with my 450 early on in the build, you'd probably be glad you didn't use the taillight assembly that came with the bracket. It has the same look as one I bought from 2FastMoto and it came with an LED bulb. Within a few hundred miles the bulb went out, and not long after the taillight lens fell off while I was riding on a local road near my house. I found out after I got home and went back and found the lens but the tabs for the screws weren't very strong and they bent, then broke at the cheesy spotwelds. I ended up finding a used assembly from an SL175 but the money 'saved' really wasn't in the end. Ah yes, here is the passage in my voluminous build/repair disaster thread at that other site.

CL450 project reboot, street legal this time
 
Based on an experience I had with my 450 early on in the build, you'd probably be glad you didn't use the taillight assembly that came with the bracket.
Good to know. One would hope that weaknesses like that are corrected as the products are revised, but I really don't know if poor quality affects sales. We see new members all the time and I know from my own point of view that it's easy to get drawn towards products that appear to be direct replacements for things that are broken on my bike. With a constant supply of new enthusiasts the companies may not need to improve their products, but I hope they do.

At least in communities like this we can learn collectively to a certain extent, rather than individually.
 
Looking ahead to more free time in the summer, I am gathering parts for a top end rebuild. The plan is to install a +0.5mm high compression piston kit that brings the compression ratio up from the stock 8.5:1 to 9.5:1. I will also swap out the 45-tooth rear sprocket with a 39-tooth option. The piston kit and sprocket come from XLint Performance. I already have a spare cylinder head that I will rebuild and ordered a used cylinder to go with the piston kit. I am also considering adding a compression release to the head and I am still educating myself on that.

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I will also send the oil pump from my spare crankcase to XLint Performance to be rebuilt. This way I can continue to ride the bike while all of the machine work is being done and will hopefully be able to do the work over a couple of days once all of the parts are ready.

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I removed the oil pump from the spare crankcase today. This spare was a freebie with the purchase of the bike and it's come in handy a few times already. I wonder when the last time the centrifugal oil filter was cleaned. A combination of heat and penetrating oil ultimately got the cap loose, but it took a little time.

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Wow, I wonder if the sump floor is that deep with glop and the crank sludge traps too. If there is little gritty shiny material then, at least, that's a good sign.
 
Wow, I wonder if the sump floor is that deep with glop and the crank sludge traps too. If there is little gritty shiny material then, at least, that's a good sign.
It does seem pretty gooped up. The texture of that stuff is almost like thick grease. Fortunately, I am not planning to use this crankcase anytime soon.
 
Nice improvements on your eXLcellent K2 Brody !
I think it's a good choice to install a manual decomp.,especially when it stalls hot.
I hope you can get 87-89' E-free gasoline locally ;)
I love the seat on the XL350;it's a couch and great for long rides.
 
Nice improvements on your eXLcellent K2 Brody !
I think it's a good choice to install a manual decomp.,especially when it stalls hot.
I hope you can get 87-89' E-free gasoline locally ;)
I love the seat on the XL350;it's a couch and great for long rides.
Thanks! And nice play on words.

I drive about 40 miles to buy ethanol free gas and it's actually a pleasant drive because I'll do it early in the morning and the route gets me out of the city. And well worth the trip.

I've been looking at some push button compression release mechanisms. If you have any recommendations, I'm all ears.
 
Thanks! And nice play on words.

I drive about 40 miles to buy ethanol free gas and it's actually a pleasant drive because I'll do it early in the morning and the route gets me out of the city. And well worth the trip.

I've been looking at some push button compression release mechanisms. If you have any recommendations, I'm all ears.
I don't know(a push button compression release.. Very On or Off.) :unsure: of a suitable compression release,but hoping the one you choose can be modulated;I'm thinking 'old school' lever. ;)
 
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It does seem pretty gooped up. The texture of that stuff is almost like thick grease. Fortunately, I am not planning to use this crankcase anytime soon.
It's a bit thick but not as much as I've seen in many still-running engines. I'd just suspect you're the first person to look at it in decades, and since there's no small access cover (like the 360 engine, and unlike the earlier engines like the 160, 175, 350 and 450) that's the likely reason it gets ignored. Then again, even oil changes get ignored by many POs on these bikes at times.
 
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Received the used cylinder. No broken fins and a quick caliper measurement shows that the bore is at the standard 79mm. No major damage so it should work well with the +0.5mm kit.

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That cylinder wall looks rough, somehow I don't think a .5 over is going to cut it
I may be overestimating what +0.5mm can clean up. This type of rough seems different from what I've seen on heavily worn cylinders — it's more like environmental corrosion as if the motor sat outside exposed to the elements. Does that seem right?

I'd show your machinist before anything else to weigh all the options, even re-sleeving.
Once I have the piston kit, I will do just that. The high compression kit is specific to this size, so if this cylinder won't work, it will go into my reserve collection and I'll look for one in better shape. It was relatively cheap, so I rolled the dice on it. There are more expensive specimens available that will still probably be cheaper than re-sleeving this one, although I was already looking for a sleeve when you mentioned it. I think I only found one so far and it was not OEM.
 
I may be overestimating what +0.5mm can clean up. This type of rough seems different from what I've seen on heavily worn cylinders — it's more like environmental corrosion as if the motor sat outside exposed to the elements. Does that seem right?
Yeah, looks like is sat full of water for a few years, maybe underwater
 
I may be overestimating what +0.5mm can clean up. This type of rough seems different from what I've seen on heavily worn cylinders — it's more like environmental corrosion as if the motor sat outside exposed to the elements. Does that seem right?


Once I have the piston kit, I will do just that. The high compression kit is specific to this size, so if this cylinder won't work, it will go into my reserve collection and I'll look for one in better shape. It was relatively cheap, so I rolled the dice on it. There are more expensive specimens available that will still probably be cheaper than re-sleeving this one, although I was already looking for a sleeve when you mentioned it. I think I only found one so far and it was not OEM.
Most models did not have OEM sleeves available. My machinist uses sleeves for a lot of them that didn't specifically list a replacement sleeve. He said he usually sources these from LA Sleeve, then uses his oven to remove and replace, then whatever machining is required. The raw sleeves are not real expensive and labor is probably more than just a re-bore, but it is an option. I was surprised to hear this gets done more often than I thought. My guy even said they do the chrome bore and nicasil (sp?) liners.
 
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