Mousetown, my own 73 CL350

I would too if I hadn't had to doff a dozen pair everyday for 10 years working at a nursing home. It's a personal revenge thing, I guess. Besides, we didn't even have gloves at the shop parts washer in the early '70's, so I'm either a dead man walking or impervious.
I see techs wearing gloves today while working on practically anything and I think "weenie". I get that grease and crud takes a lot of washing to get completely out of your skin, but I never wore gloves during all my years of mechanical work and still don't. The only problem I've ever had is dry skin in the winter months from too much washing taking the natural oils out of my skin, and overnights with good hand lotion rubbed in solves that problem. Hey, being bike riders we're all dead men walking anyway whether from working on them or otherwise (but hopefully not).
 
All my working life I worked in "clean" jobs, pushing paper and keyboards, a lot of it in places where grease marks would have been weird. I got used to wearing gloves and now I can hardly touch a screwdriver without pulling them on. It's all what you get used to, I guess.
 
All my working life I worked in "clean" jobs, pushing paper and keyboards, a lot of it in places where grease marks would have been weird. I got used to wearing gloves and now I can hardly touch a screwdriver without pulling them on. It's all what you get used to, I guess.
That's a good point Bob and since I've been in both worlds, I never really thought of it that way. I was immersed in grease and oil since my teenage years until I left the City job and doing mobile auto repair after that, then got a little cleaner in car accessories and finally a lot cleaner yet in computer work and an office job in the mortgage business for 3 years. I've considered wearing them for some of the most grubby work like brakes (have the front to do on my truck soon, might just get some for that) but honestly have never been concerned with it on my bikes. So yeah, I guess I'm used to it for sure, like many of us here.
 
Yep, all depends. When I did archival art and print framing, you couldn't even have natural skin oil anywhere. Couldn't scratch your nose or head without handwashing after.
 
Yep, all depends. When I did archival art and print framing, you couldn't even have natural skin oil anywhere. Couldn't scratch your nose or head without handwashing after.
Just one of the little things you learn about an industry that many are never aware of.
 
Are 165mm spokes used on any other wheel besides front CL350 (19")? Both recently received orders are a no go. One set from amazon advertised as 165mm were, in fact, 159mm, listed as for a CT90 (I should have known this) and were probably measured with the nipple included (who does that?). The other set was from ebay Vintage Avenue (Bangkok), listed as for CL350 but were obviously for a CB (159 & 153mm). It got here in 7 days, ordered on Christmas Eve. There is no prize, in my book, for fast and wrong.

I may have to, yet again, resort to my cheap-skate tactics and clean and clear coat the originals. No rest for the wicked.
 
I always wear gloves with wrenching, not that I like it, but I need to keep my hands clean for work where I meet a lot of suppliers and customers. Plus, I don't want that my colleagues know that I have a mechanical background, before you know I'll be seen as a mechanical specialist ;).

What are the P/N numbers of the spokes you need ?
 
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I always wear gloves with wrenching, not that I like it, but I need to keep my hands clean for work where I meet a lot of suppliers and customers. Plus, I don't want that my colleagues know that I have a mechanical background, before you know I'll be seen as a mechanical specialist ;).

What are the P/N numbers of the spokes you need ?
Yes, best to keep some knowledge confidential in certain company.

97661-52170-1 and 97338-52171-1, these numbers taken from Partzilla. It is too bad that spoke length is not considered primary essential information in many listings.
 
How about our supplier Scrambler Cycle? I used his spokes on the CL77 build and both the wheels are 19" with one a 40 spoke (F) the rear a 36 spoke. At least he could check the spoke length for you.

I sold the old parts so I can't check them for you. :)
 
Here is what my cross reference notes for your part numbers which do correspond in my fiche too.



Part # = 97338-52171-1
Part Description = SPOKE B (9X165.5)
Model Count = 6
CL350 1968 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K2 1970 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K3 1971 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K4 1972 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K5 1973 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
SL350 1970 350 Motosport 350 Dual Sport


Part # = 97661-52170-1
Part Description = SPOKE B (9X165)
Model Count = 6
CL350 1968 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K2 1970 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K3 1971 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K4 1972 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K5 1973 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
SL350 1970 350 Motosport 350 Dual Sport
 
Here is what my cross reference notes for your part numbers which do correspond in my fiche too.



Part # = 97338-52171-1
Part Description = SPOKE B (9X165.5)
Model Count = 6
CL350 1968 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K2 1970 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K3 1971 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K4 1972 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K5 1973 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
SL350 1970 350 Motosport 350 Dual Sport


Part # = 97661-52170-1
Part Description = SPOKE B (9X165)
Model Count = 6
CL350 1968 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K2 1970 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K3 1971 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K4 1972 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
CL350-K5 1973 350 Scrambler 350 Dual Sport
SL350 1970 350 Motosport 350 Dual Sport
Thank you Dave, for cross checking. It won't be too bad to just do one wheels worth of spoke rehab.
 
Vintage Avenue did send the right spoke length, after all. Their customer service asked if I could send a pic of spoke and ruler. I was humbled to find I had measured wrong, or got mixed up with all the bags and bundles of spokes around here. Thank goodness for all those who patiently correct dizzy old duffers like me.
So now I can spoke up my cleaned and polished hub shells.
I did clean up the old spokes in my 6 month old, 5 gallon batch of Deox-C and am proceeded with another rusty fuel tank from a CA95. I'm pretty convinced that Doox-C beats Evaporust in both cost and performance.
 
Vintage Avenue did send the right spoke length, after all. Their customer service asked if I could send a pic of spoke and ruler. I was humbled to find I had measured wrong, or got mixed up with all the bags and bundles of spokes around here. Thank goodness for all those who patiently correct dizzy old duffers like me.
So now I can spoke up my cleaned and polished hub shells.
I did clean up the old spokes in my 6 month old, 5 gallon batch of Deox-C and am proceeded with another rusty fuel tank from a CA95. I'm pretty convinced that Doox-C beats Evaporust in both cost and performance.
The Deox-C is mixed from a concentrate powder?
How much do they recommend for the ratio of 'powder' to water?
I'm curious if more concentrate can be added later to strengthen the mix for when it gets weak..
 
The Deox-C is mixed from a concentrate powder?
How much do they recommend for the ratio of 'powder' to water?
I'm curious if more concentrate can be added later to strengthen the mix for when it gets weak..
It says 1:19 for max volume or 1:4 for max strength. A 1000g bottle ($35) will make up to 20 liters.
I'm sure you could add more later but if it's full of dissolved contaminants, why not dump it and start over.

It also said not to use on zinc, lead or tin or alloys containing those. Oh well, so much for my remaining zinc plating on the spokes. Also, any soldered repairs on fuel tanks might dissolve.
 
It says 1:19 for max volume or 1:4 for max strength. A 1000g bottle ($35) will make up to 20 liters.
I'm sure you could add more later but if it's full of dissolved contaminants, why not dump it and start over.

It also said not to use on zinc, lead or tin or alloys containing those. Oh well, so much for my remaining zinc plating on the spokes. Also, any soldered repairs on fuel tanks might dissolve.
strong stuff ?
 
Vintage Avenue did send the right spoke length, after all. Their customer service asked if I could send a pic of spoke and ruler. I was humbled to find I had measured wrong, or got mixed up with all the bags and bundles of spokes around here. Thank goodness for all those who patiently correct dizzy old duffers like me.
So now I can spoke up my cleaned and polished hub shells.
I did clean up the old spokes in my 6 month old, 5 gallon batch of Deox-C and am proceeded with another rusty fuel tank from a CA95. I'm pretty convinced that Doox-C beats Evaporust in both cost and performance.
I need to get some CB350 spokes, drum brake style. Any recommendations where to get some stainless ones? I also need to find a new rim, preferably black aluminum to match the rear wheel assembly I’ll use. My K2 revival project has a smashed , rusty front rim and bent crusty spokes.
 
I need to get some CB350 spokes, drum brake style. Any recommendations where to get some stainless ones? I also need to find a new rim, preferably black aluminum to match the rear wheel assembly I’ll use. My K2 revival project has a smashed , rusty front rim and bent crusty spokes.
Kevin at Scrambler (see our vendors) has good prices on standard zinc spokes for 18" CB350 wheels. Stainless? I don't know but I'm sure they will be pricey, same with alloy rims. Have you searched ebay?
 
Laced up the front hub shell with the new spokes from the Bangkok batch (Vintage Avenue), they seem fine. I use a symmetric spoke pattern and will make a separate post on that process. Even with the cold, I was able to get the centers clear coated and the outer surfaces polished.

N2LAUxO.jpg
 
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I don’t really trust eBay like that. I suppose I could go with zinc but would like to match the SS rear. And I forgot where I got that because it’s been so long.
Kevin at Scrambler (see our vendors) has good prices on standard zinc spokes for 18" CB350 wheels. Stainless? I don't know but I'm sure they will be pricey, same with alloy rims. Have you searched ebay?
I found the rim on MikesXS
 
I don’t really trust eBay like that. I suppose I could go with zinc but would like to match the SS rear. And I forgot where I got that because it’s been so long.

I found the rim on MikesXS
The rim is a 1.85 not 1.60, so fatter than stock, actually the same as CB350 rear, but if you're going for the fat look and don't care about handling.... Randaks has your stainless at $141 for one wheel.
No thanks.
 
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The rim is a 1.85 not 1.60, so fatter than stock, actually the same as CB350 rear, but if you're going for the fat look and don't care about handling.... Randaks has your stainless at $141 for one wheel.
No thanks.
Ahem, the wider rim improves handling on a stock width tire.
Looks like Buchanan’s may be the way to go.
 
That's a good point Bob and since I've been in both worlds, I never really thought of it that way. I was immersed in grease and oil since my teenage years until I left the City job and doing mobile auto repair after that, then got a little cleaner in car accessories and finally a lot cleaner yet in computer work and an office job in the mortgage business for 3 years. I've considered wearing them for some of the most grubby work like brakes (have the front to do on my truck soon, might just get some for that) but honestly have never been concerned with it on my bikes. So yeah, I guess I'm used to it for sure, like many of us here.
I need to paint some MC parts and do it outside the door of my apt. on the 2nd floor walkway(against the rules)and I use a long sleeve work shirt and a rubber glove on my left hand(to hold the part)which protects my skin from paint;gloves do help when needed.
 
Yes, gloves can keep you from getting dirty or they can keep the dirty hands from being seen. I've done that in healthcare too.
 
I need to paint some MC parts and do it outside the door of my apt. on the 2nd floor walkway(against the rules)and I use a long sleeve work shirt and a rubber glove on my left hand(to hold the part)which protects my skin from paint;gloves do help when needed.
How about spray it in the parking lot then hop in your warmed up car until the majority of the stinky solvents dissipate.
 
How about spray it in the parking lot then hop in your warmed up car until the majority of the stinky solvents dissipate.
I like to keep the parts warm,at least 60 degrees so they will cure sooner.
My 87' Volvo 240 has a clogged heater box full of leaves and presently it doesn't make heat or defrost.
I don't want to upset the neighbors while spraying 'toxic paint';I heard enough from them already about using gasoline in a bucket in my parking space to clean some greasy engine parts a little bit ago..
 
Wheels are built. Spokes pulled up, and off-set or dish checked by measuring even difference on both sides of wheel to rim edge from complete axle spacers and brake plates with my custom wooden block (within a mm or two at most). Fortunately one of my Park nipple wrenches fit these Bangkok spoke nipples better than my main Honda nipple wrench (Honda nipple flats are a bit fatter).

pbmjwBL.jpg



Also found these cheap thin bristle abrasive wheels to be quite handy for removing petrified Honda clear coat and underlying oxidation from hubs, brake plates, etc. The 320 grit, with a light touch leaves minimal scratching so I can proceed to the finer 400, 600grit then to the sisal wheel on the buffer. After my hands and fingers got sore from the spoke wrench, I'm not up to a lot of manual hand sanding for buffing prep.

OpR9CfS.jpg



After I get the rubber mounted, I'll try to warm the garage enough to begin wiring stuff. The temps are between 30 to 40F, so the kerosene heater will allow further progress until single digits hit, then start carb work in the house.
 
You do a great job with the hand tools! Those bristle wheels are a new tool awareness for me in the various grits. Those Chinese seem to have every tool option available! LOL.
 
Rims and hubs look great.
Thanks. I'm happy over all but Dave Swanson was right about the extra time and effort that can be put into making nice wheels. His did look wonderful.
The spokes here were not hyper expensive and the chrome on them is good but they are a bit...different than the OEM or Japanese made replacements. They are single gauge and the 'neck' at the spoke heads was a little longer, even the inners were about the same length neck as the outers, only difference is the angle of the heads between inners and outers. As long as that doesn't become a fatigue point then it should be ok. I just pulled them up good and tight, in case there may be more stretch or settling in due to that.
 
Thanks for all your tips BB, they will be very useful when I hopefully get a CL350 in the spring. If you could put all your gear in the van and come over and work on it for a month that would be even better ;)
 
Chipping away at the build. De-rusting small parts for the brakes and rear footpegs (even painted them) but nice to get some stuff back on it. It's now about where it was back in June, as a roller with motor, when I decided it was time to get it going.
At least it's off the gurney now. Starting to look like a bike.
CppCASJ.jpg

gb7vN5R.jpg
 
What a fascinating thread this has been... it rather puts my little CB200 project into perspective :) .
 
I once thought that this would be a simple build. Ha. The best laid plans of mice and men. :rolleyes:
Yes indeed! I bought the CB200 thinking it would be a fettling bike: just tune the carburettors, adjust the tappets and ignition timing - only to find it needed quite a bit more. Well done for staying with this one though, many folk would have given up and sold it for spares.

:cool:
 
Yes, gloves can keep you from getting dirty or they can keep the dirty hands from being seen. I've done that in healthcare too.
I've never worn (well, hardly ever) gloves for 'muckcanicking', as my late mother termed it, when I came in with filthy hands yet again.

When I first started work in path lab, I commuted to work on my new CB175, wearing my filthy black Belstaff wax jacket. I invariably had dirt off this coat under my fingernails, and then I would go off and do a ward round, taking blood samples from patients, no gloves worn in those early days. Wearing gloves would have saved a lot of embarrassment. And back in the lab we'd be using litres of formaldehyde, benzene, toluene, chloroform, xylene etc, all now regarded as carcinogens, for tissue processing, without any protection other than a white coat.

Gradually realised that this wasn't best practice, and when I was responsible for setting up our new lab in a new hospital made sure we had laminar flow downdraught benches, most of the nasty solvents were banned, and we all wore gloves. Then had the headache of pointing out to juniors that it was pointless wearing gloves if they did not discard them after contamination, rather than then sitting down at a keyboard still wearing their gloves, contaminated with blood or semen ( seriously).
 
Looking very good Mr B, lots of work went into getting it to this point. I like the box of Crispy Creams under the hood of the family hauler, along with the coffee mug ala A&W style hung from the drivers window. ;)
 
I've never worn (well, hardly ever) gloves for 'muckcanicking', as my late mother termed it, when I came in with filthy hands yet again.

When I first started work in path lab, I commuted to work on my new CB175, wearing my filthy black Belstaff wax jacket. I invariably had dirt off this coat under my fingernails, and then I would go off and do a ward round, taking blood samples from patients, no gloves worn in those early days. Wearing gloves would have saved a lot of embarrassment. And back in the lab we'd be using litres of formaldehyde, benzene, toluene, chloroform, xylene etc, all now regarded as carcinogens, for tissue processing, without any protection other than a white coat.

Gradually realised that this wasn't best practice, and when I was responsible for setting up our new lab in a new hospital made sure we had laminar flow downdraught benches, most of the nasty solvents were banned, and we all wore gloves. Then had the headache of pointing out to juniors that it was pointless wearing gloves if they did not discard them after contamination, rather than then sitting down at a keyboard still wearing their gloves, contaminated with blood or semen ( seriously).
As a BMET... I can relate
 
Replacing PVC harness covers since they are hard, cracked and generally a pain.

K83yAum.jpg



Next time I won't procrastinate on all these little items that needs done before start up. I still have a bunch though, yet to do.
 
A fatter rim will change the handling. It just depends what you want.
The 1.60 rim is right on the limit for a 3.00 tyre, 3.25 is actually above the recommended size for that rim
Using XS650 rear rim WILL improve the handling even with stock size tyres or even 'metric' 90/90 front and 11/90 rear
I've built too many 350/360's with alloy rims, the improvement is noticeable
 
The 1.60 rim is right on the limit for a 3.00 tyre, 3.25 is actually above the recommended size for that rim
Using XS650 rear rim WILL improve the handling even with stock size tyres or even 'metric' 90/90 front and 11/90 rear
I've built too many 350/360's with alloy rims, the improvement is noticeable
I agree. Since this was supposed to be a mostly stock CL with the 19" front, I didn't really want to swap front rims but I was too hasty in buying the tire set from 4into1. Maybe IRC will offer 3.00 width again or I could get a Metz block C, even a Mitas, in 3.00. Either way, I'll ride this just to see how much it sucks for now.
Are the XS650's 36 spokers?
I would love to build alloys for a CB (another build) in 1.85F and 2.15R. You guys had access to all kinds of good stuff, back in the day.
 
Yes, XS rims are 36 hole.
Finding cheap 40 hole rims is another problem, there aren't any although I did manage to find an old Boranni off a Kawasaki 400.
I've also done a lot of wheels with MX rims but 'new' bikes come with an 8mm spoke nipple so need washers to use with standard spokes.
It's a much cheaper source of 19" rims as well since most MX bikes about 2000 on use a 19" rear and 21" front
 
Yes, XS rims are 36 hole.
Finding cheap 40 hole rims is another problem, there aren't any although I did manage to find an old Boranni off a Kawasaki 400.
I've also done a lot of wheels with MX rims but 'new' bikes come with an 8mm spoke nipple so need washers to use with standard spokes.
It's a much cheaper source of 19" rims as well since most MX bikes about 2000 on use a 19" rear and 21" front
Just came across some 40 holers on 4into1's generic parts section.
 
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