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Idle issue, it idles good, but it takes forever to get there.

Si today I was able to install the 38 jets. And the bike started fine with no choke on the first try! It was extremely rich at 5/8 turns out, make sense due to the pilot being larger. I was not able to fiddle with it to much, but at about 1 turn out I noticed the rpm increase when turning the screw out. Idle does sound a lot smother. This was done cold, so I'm waiting until the weekend that I can ride it, get it warm up and try setting the air screw and then sync the carbs at idle again. But I'm happy that it's getting better! I'll post after I get it more dialed in.
 
I was able to work with the bike for a bit today. Keeper messing with the jets, it improved a bit, but still had the same problem overall.

Rechecked compression and it was lower than my first readings. 90psi cold, 100 after a squirt of oil, 115psi when warm. Throttle open. Could that cause the hard to idle when cold?

I have another set of ring and I’m thinking of re-honing the cylinders with the flex hone.

Since I could be opening the engine, also trying to make the tensioner work better, I keep hearing the chain rattling, maybe put a second spring in there? I think the chain should not be stretched, the engine only had 4000 miles prior the rebuild.
 
Did you observe any difference in the compression between the two cylinders? Yeah, those are not good numbers. Low compression can certainly cause hard starting.

If you are going to rebuild the motor, I think you should take the cylinders to a machine shop and possibly overbore as needed. Honing with new rings may not be enough.
 
Both had the same reading. Hm, thought maybe a redone new ring could fix it. The head was rebuilt when I did the upper engine, about 200 miles ago. I’m stills dumbfounded as to why the sudden lost of compression. I was getting about 145-150 when I did the first rebuild.
 
I was curious about the previous readings — thanks for sharing that. You had the throttle open, but is there any chance the choke was closed? Have you double-checked the compression?

Are you kicking the motor over or using electric start for the compression test? Waiting for the pressure to stop rising?

Same tester that you used previously?
 
Yea, same tester, even thought is a cheap car one with no Schreider valve. No choke. With the starter was not passing 110, using the kickstart it maxed out at 115.
 
Just checked it, when in the T position, the cam pin is pointing straight up. The hard start it’s only when cold. Once its warm it start first kick. And rides pretty decent. Also I’m confused about the low compression, because it pulls fine uphill. I’m a bit lost here lol!
 
stl360+450 said:
Bad tester is still possible. And may as well check valves.
Click to expand...
I agree with both, and definitely about checking valve clearances. If the head was apart (and I think it was) it's very possible the valves have seated a bit and the clearance is close to zero now.
 
Just doubled check the valves clearance, the gauges bearly drags, goes in smoothly.
@ancientdad by the valves seated you mean the actual valve seated to far in? The head was done by Chris Schumann, I’m hoping everything’s ok there.

I’ll see if I can find another compression tester. When the engine was being Broken in, at about 100mile it read 150psi on both now it drops to 115 on both. I’m not sure what’s going on there.


As for the tensioner, would it be unwise to use 2 springs? Not sure if I’m getting enough tension. Maybe the spring is worn out due to all the time the bikes has been park through the years.
 
Jramos13 said:
Just doubled check the valves clearance, the gauges bearly drags, goes in smoothly.
@ancientdad by the valves seated you mean the actual valve seated to far in? The head was done by Chris Schumann, I’m hoping everything’s ok there.
Click to expand...
I didn't mean anything would be wrong, it's just that valves usually change adjustment a little after a few miles on a fresh valve job, so they often need to be adjusted later and could snug up a bit. Good that the clearance is okay.
Jramos13 said:
As for the tensioner, would it be unwise to use 2 springs?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't. The rubber tensioner rollers wear out soon enough and too much tension would only accelerate the wear.
 
On another note. I also have some 0.5mm over pistons and manage to source the cylinders too. Does anyone have a recommendation of a shop that takes mail in orders? Chris is only doing heads for now.
 
I’ve been looking for some options to replace the tensioner. Found this upper roller, it’s for a 175, I’m not sure if it would fit the 200. Already found a new rubber lower roller with soft rubber.

www.spectrummoto.com

Cam Chain Tensioner Roller, Upper Sprocket | Spectrum Moto

Cam chain roller sprocket for Honda CB/CL/SL engines, CNC machined to high precision tolerances in the USA. Sprockets are then heat treated using a spin flame hardening process. This item replaces the OEM rubber lined upper roller that tends to fail from extended use. Order includes one machined...
www.spectrummoto.com www.spectrummoto.com
IMG_0338.jpeg

IMG_0337.jpeg
 
We've seen someone here use one like that on a 350 (I think), can't recall who. I don't think we've heard any progress since the installation either. I don't know all the differences between the 175 and 200, and I've never worked on a 200 so someone with some personal experience will have to confirm.
 
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