I have a suspicion that the idiot who put it on did so wrong.
‘69 CB350
‘68 CB450K0
Damn modern Honda shops, always screwing up vintage bikes.
I have a suspicion that the idiot who put it on did so wrong.
‘69 CB350
‘68 CB450K0
You put it in but didn't tighten it up until you get all the bolts started, then forgot to tighten this one. Or at least that's what I do.
That's mostly good news with a little remedial effort to fix the little things discovered. Don't be hard on yourself, remember the oil flow issues I had with my red 450 due to my own mistake despite all my experience with this engine. Stuff happens, and fortunately none of it was damaging.
Ditto what AD says. I'd happily trade places with you right now.
I have at least 2 other engines in my garage that need attention and I will tackle them myself, one at a time, asking lots of stupid questions along the way.
We all make mistakes, and we all have plenty of experience kicking our own butts. Over time you just get used to it. You've done some fine work. Try to relax and enjoy the ride from time to time. See if you can burn a full tank of gas before you dive in again.
Maybe I should start other threads since I’m into more specific issues now.
But is it worth it to pick up some later 14H carbs? Mine has the earlier 14C. My limited understanding is the later version has some improvements.
They are out there and not that expensive.
‘69 CB350
‘68 CB450K0
I have an issue where it’s hard to start when it has been sitting awhile. Like at least a day.
What's your start-up procedure? I know you said that choke positions don't seem to matter, but do you typically use the choke? And do you blip the throttle at all while engaging the starter?
I may speak blasphemy here, but I think the slightest blip of the throttle when you hit the starter might make a difference. I would also choke it, but would not let it run long with the choke after it fires (in warm weather)
I thrive on blasphemous techniques. I’ll try it.
‘69 CB350
‘68 CB450K0
Even when the ambient temp is 80°, you still need full choke if only for a few seconds. The engine internals are "cold" despite outside temp, meaning zero combustion warmth and the carb bodies are as well. And if you turn the throttle even a little bit you actually make it harder to start. Remember these carbs do not have accelerator pumps, so no amount of turning the throttle when cold does anything but reduce the potential vacuum draw that helps bring a dose of raw fuel into the combustion chambers to get things going. Keep your hand on the choke and off the throttle, push the button and be ready to reduce the choke quickly once it's running for a few seconds.
I’ll try more.
If you mean throttle, you're welcome to experiment and if it works for your bike and carbs then good, but by and large the least throttle application is best.
Float bowls have to be vented, otherwise under certain conditions they would go to negative pressure.I blame the old float bowl system, vented to the air. After 4 - 5 days the gas level has gone down because of evaporation and, unless you are a patient person, you may be starting it before the gas has refilled the bowls. Try turning on the petcock as the first thing you do, before you put on the jacket and helmet, before you wheel it out of the garage, before you run into the house to get the cell phone you left on the counter in the kitchen.
Good news, bad news.
Good news is AD might be on to something. He should write a book.
Bad news is it idles better but sputters like mad at 6K. This is new behavior. Would be willing to bet my own money I did something wrong. Though I can’t imagine what. I’ve cleaned/rebuilt carbs so much it doesn’t even stress me at all.
Don’t tell me. I want to figure it out.
‘69 CB350
‘68 CB450K0
Got both chokes connected together so the right one doesn't slip closed on its own? Obviously I don't know what's wrong but it's an easy one, just like when the detent "spring" for the choke lever doesn't put enough pressure on the little notches in the lever and it turns a little on its own.
The clever old saying "99% of all carburetor problems are electric" seems to be likely here.
I wish you gurus would decide on a percentage.
‘69 CB350
‘68 CB450K0
These Daiichi points I put in are interesting.
To get it timed left point gap had to be set at the lower range, right at the upper.
On rechecking it, I think maybe it’s worse than that really.
Anything to be done about that?
As a test I put the old points back it. They seemed to clean up ok. Left ends up being .33mm and right ~.36mm.
‘69 CB350
‘68 CB450K0
Earlier in your thread you mentioned trying a set of later 14H carbs because they could be found cheap? At the time I wasn’t able to respond to that thought but it seems like cheap insurance to have a spare set of carbs and with the known issues of the original 14C Bomber carbs. Only the most discerning eye will ever realize the carbs are a later variety and if it makes the bike run right… well that’s what you are after correct? Given your frustration, if I were in your shoes, I’d consider this option. Just my 2 cents.
So are you saying you don't actually have air filters on it yet? Or just the old ones?
Which model carburetors does your bike have? Apologies if this is mentioned earlier in the thread.