What is going on with this battery?

[Randall]

The Gammatronix LED monitor will stay green while charging between 12.2 and 15v. Anything over 15v it glows red. I have never seen it glow red. I just measured charging voltage, highest I could get it to go was 14.5v at 4500 rpm.

Am I in high water here?

Also, I have no way to adjust charging amps on my old charger. I mostly just use a tender.

I'm just going to install the new Gell battery.

Can someone point in the direction of a mosfet regulator? I'd like to at least take a look.

[fxray]

New problem. Amazon listing for the Mighty Max in the link above details Neg on left, Pos on right, but the image is reverse of that. So, which is it? I need Pos on left Neg right.

I think the script is wrong, tho.

Correct, looking at the battery from the right side of the bike, the Positive is Left and Negative Right

I don't know for sure about the CM400 but my 78 CB400Tii has left-positive and so do the 350's, they are the same battery and fairly standard. Pretty sure the picture is correct.
Will your connections and cables allow it to be turned around in the battery box? Ad states negative on (it's) left.

My set up is not like the above photo. Mine is rotated 90 degrees CW with terminals at the wide ends. No way to hook it up by moving cables, and I would not want to mess with that anyway. I'm ordering the MightyMax blue one. I think it will be correct.

I'm not trying to start an argument, but in my opinion the easiest, most obvious first test to see if a battery needs to be replaced is to glance at it and see if it has removable caps. If it does, it should go to the recycling center.

I cannot imagine that anybody would still be using slosh batteries after all the years that AGM has been available. I have seen far too many exhaust systems with etched chrome or swingarms with nasty paint from the battery spewing acid. Even if the overflow tube is routed correctly, they sometimes come off and spill electrolyte all around the heart of the bike under the seat. It is so unnecessary.

As far as whether the positive post is on the right or left, buy a Motobatt and put it in the way it fits your bike. For a long time now, they have had four posts on top. That lets the same battery be either positive LH or positive RH. Also, Each post is a cube so that the cables can attach on top of the post or on the side. The best part of this is that sellers can stock half the number of batteries that they previously needed. They can turn their inventory faster and keep their stock fresher.

Motobatt makes a good AGM Battery. If it costs a little more, it is worth it. It makes all the discussions I quoted here into moot points. You can put the battery into your shelf the way it fits your cables the best.

I normally hate commercials, but this one explains what I mean about the four post Motobatt:

[bilbikek411]

These models have a charge system spec of 15V +/-.5 = up to 15.5V. Yes, I've encountered more than 1 hitting that which is why I advocate installing a modern MOSFET regulator, most of which have a voltage cutoff @14.2V which is still on the high side but in most cases you only hit high 13's.

Jim,I tried reaching out to you but no answer.
I would like too see a few 'examples' of a MOSFET regulator:pics ?

[fxray]

http://mosfet-regulator.com/

[ballbearian]

I'm not trying to start an argument, but in my opinion the easiest, most obvious first test to see if a battery needs to be replaced is to glance at it and see if it has removable caps. If it does, it should go to the recycling center.

I cannot imagine that anybody would still be using slosh batteries after all the years that AGM has been available. I have seen far too many exhaust systems with etched chrome or swingarms with nasty paint from the battery spewing acid. Even if the overflow tube is routed correctly, they sometimes come off and spill electrolyte all around the heart of the bike under the seat. It is so unnecessary.

As far as whether the positive post is on the right or left, buy a Motobatt and put it in the way it fits your bike. For a long time now, they have had four posts on top. That lets the same battery be either positive LH or positive RH. Also, Each post is a cube so that the cables can attach on top of the post or on the side. The best part of this is that sellers can stock half the number of batteries that they previously needed. They can turn their inventory faster and keep their stock fresher.

Motobatt makes a good AGM Battery. If it costs a little more, it is worth it. It makes all the discussions I quoted here into moot points. You can put the battery into your shelf the way it fits your cables the best.

I normally hate commercials, but this one explains what I mean about the four post Motobatt:

No argument. The terminal options are a handy feature. Perhaps that is also why they cost so much more.
All mine are AGM now except one and that will get done next replacement.
Acid damage does stink. Even the caps can out gas and corrode metal side covers and battery boxes.

[ballbearian]

http://mosfet-regulator.com/

Good info there. Thanks.

[LongDistanceRider]

Jim,I tried reaching out to you but no answer.
I would like too see a few 'examples' of a MOSFET regulator:pics ?

I tried to answer but for some reason it wouldn't connect, might need a new one.
Jack has the mounting dimensions on his site. Nice guy that can answer specific questions if needed http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm

[Randall]

I don't a mosfet regulator on that site for my year and model.

[LongDistanceRider]

I don't a mosfet regulator on that site for my year and model.

If you're talking about Roadster then no you won't find one listed. Just order the "FH020AA with connector kit" for $144.95. You don't need any of his wiring or fuses so you just crimp new connectors to the existing wiring.

[Randall]

I'm talking about 1982 CM450E.

[LongDistanceRider]

I'm talking about 1982 CM450E.

I poked thru the RM site and under the CM450E found nothing but under the CB450 Hawk (same basic bike) they show a conventional type regulator. Since this is a modification from stock it's unlikely to actually be listed anywhere.
Even Rick's Motorsport doesn't show a MOSFET, only conventional and Lithium https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/results/

[Randall]

Well I stand corrected, I guess I do have a charging issue after all. I put in a new AGM battery, which has been holding charge well. But today, after the bike sitting for 5 days, I brought it out down the block to get it gassed up. When I pulled into the drive and stopped with the bike idling, I noticed the LED blinking red. It went to solid green after a little while so I got out my Fluke and measured at the tender connector. It was idling at 14.8v, and would go down to 14.4v when revved. I took it out around the block, riding for 30 seconds or so, and the LED stayed green, but if I stopped at idle, LED would blink red, indicating 15v or higher. I confirmed this several times.

I'm a little unsure why it would be higher at idle. At any rate I'd like to upgrade the regulator. Since so far a mosfet type hasn't been ID'd for my bike, does anyone have any advice?

Also, looking at the FSM, to perform a rectifier test, it says "check the resistance between the regulator/rectifier leads at the couplers with an ohmmeter." By couplers they mean wiring connectors, but it does not say to disconnect them. Readings should be "between green and any yellow - 5 - 40 ohms. Between red/white and any yellow - 5 - 40 ohms in forward direction". Swapping meter leads and measuring in opposite direction should be " between green and any yellow 2000 ohms minimum, between red/white and any yellow 2000 ohms minimum" My readings are around 240K ohms one way, an infinite in reverse in both cases. How can it be that far off and still be running as well as it does?

Or am I supposed to be disconnecting the connectors?

[LongDistanceRider]

The tests are done with the plugs disconnected. By your reading the voltage regulator is failing.
There are no listing for a MOSFET regulator for these models since they were never equipped with them, built prior to the invention of the tech.
Just go ahead and get the FH020AA regulator and change the connectors. It's a bit larger than the original so mounting can be a challenge at first.

[Randall]

Okay, I will order one. Do you know where it clamps charging voltage to battery at? I don't see specs on the site.

[bilbikek411]

The #FH020AA on the site shows 5 male spade connections;the 2 connector black plastic plug on the right has the red-+ pos. and green- - neg. on the right when facing the two open connector sockets and I hook-up the positive + directly to the battery and Neg.- green to the negative post on the battery also.
Hooking them both to the battery lets the MOSFET reg/rect read the exact voltage directly at the source(battery)without going through wires that aren't needed:direct works best,imo.
The grey colored connector on the left has the 3 connections for your stator leads.
These MOSFET reg/rect. units are excellent and they will last you a long time and preserve your stator windings more than the stock 'shunt style' reg rect which does make the stator windings hot.
I purchased a Triumph wire(about $10 at the dealer)plug/lead kit# T2500676 and hooked it up to the MOSFET reg/rect;it has waterproof plugs on the reg/rect side,then I clipped-off the 2 Triumph plugs on the other end and traced the wires to the correct connections(+ & - and the other plug with the 3 stator wires)and installed my own connector wire ends.I marked the wires so they are designated to the correct connections,but not by color.
This will help you hook it up.

[LongDistanceRider]

Okay, I will order one. Do you know where it clamps charging voltage to battery at? I don't see specs on the site.

The highest I've ever gotten it was 14.4V and that was a one time occurrence, rest of the time it's between 14 and 14.2

[Randall]

Put in my order. Amazing that a half volt could make such a difference. I still have much to learn.

[Randall]

OK, got the new MOSFET regulator, have a couple of questions.

It only came with connectors and crimps, so do I just clip the wires up next to the old reg/rect and crimp on there, leaving the old white connectors in place? That would be going thru two connectors each. Or should I lose the old connectors and splice in some lengths of wires from before the old connectors up to the new connectors? I could do this, I am very good with this type of thing since I earn my keep in an electronics repair shop.

Also, it was suggested earlier to connect directly to the battery, but it seems to me that would put a constant drain on the battery, would it not? I would thing connecting after the switch would be prudent.

And, the new connector only has connections for the red and green wires, but the old one has red, green and black. What do I do about the black?

019.jpg

[LongDistanceRider]

I had to cut the old reg. harness off so I had enough length to mount the new one.
The Black wire is a sense wire for the old regulator, just cap it off so it can't get to ground since it's live with the key on.
You can connect the Red wire from the new one directly to the Pos. battery or just rely on the Honda harness like I do.

[Randall]

Got it all installed today. I opted to eliminate the two old white connectors to the old rect/reg with Westinghouse splices. It's a style of wrap and solder that is a very good connection, covered with two layers of heat shrink each, and then the harness in a larger heat shrink. I like this better than an extra failure option with the connectors. Plus, it cleans up the area nicely. The new MOSFET wouldn't fit exactly, so I had to take some frame material away next to the right assy mount hole. Also had to live with the fact that only one hole lined up to bolt the reg/rect to the assy frame. But, I put locktite on it, it should not be a problem. The empty connector is because I have a Sparker ignition module in it, which doesn't utilize that plug.

Pretty happy with the install and new gel battery. Should be good for years to come, I hope.

001.jpg 004.jpg

[LongDistanceRider]

Looks good

[crazypj]

In Florida you will never get expected battery life compared to somewhere further north.
Batteries can cope with cold conditions much better than anything over 70F.
I forget the numbers but the percentage loss in battery life is pretty dramatic for every 10 deg F rise in temp and once you get over 95¬100f it cuts life on smaller motorcycle batteries to months rather than years.
Suzuki stopped doing warranty claims on ATV batteries in 'hot' states at least 12 years ago as dealers were not doing correct prep plus bikes were being left idling for excessive periods causing overheating under the plastic covers.
Personally, never had any issues with CB/CM250/400 R/R, in fact I used them on all permanent magnet alternators for many years as they were so reliable. (and Suzuki R/R so unreliable)