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Need a Pickup Sensor CB400T

Hi I am trying to do a GL1000 swap on my '78 CB400T since my old stator is dead. However, my pickup sensor is busted. I was wondering if anyone knows where to obtain a new one?

Can you post a picture of the part, as it isn't clear what your looking for here. A Goldwing GL1000 stator is different in size to the CB400T unless your fabricating something custom.
 
Well I just leaned something that the GL1000 stator can me modified to fit and be used. ??????
 
Hi I am trying to do a GL1000 swap on my '78 CB400T since my old stator is dead. However, my pickup sensor is busted. I was wondering if anyone knows where to obtain a new one?
The pickup only came with the stator.
When you say yours is busted what do you mean? Swapping over to the Ignitech module doesn't require it to be in spec, just close since now it's only functioning as an on/off switch.
 
These are a few pictures of the stator. Definitely not in the best shape but plan on cleaning it really well while I wait on new parts. I’m having trouble finding replacements for the circled part though.

13dea8d47121edf213d12db07472a158.jpg


4eefe9fa1a74c1fbfa43bf05d14724c5.jpg
 
So just it be clear I should just send my current one out to custom rewind to be repaired and still carry on with getting a gl1000 stator?


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To use the GL1000 stator you have to use the stock primary pickup and the Ignitech DCCDI-P2.
So if there's an open circuit or very low/high resistance in your pickup then yes, send it for repair. Spec is 203 ohms but 150-300 will be fine.
 
@LDR, I know you 've used a newly rewound GL1000 stator. Are the dimensions of it still the same of the original GL 1000 one, or maybe somewhat smaller? I've read here that it can be a very tight fit.
I can't say for sure. The author of that blog, Maxim Baele, supplied me with the stator in exchange for a 2:1 exhaust. He didn't tell me about any problems.
IIRC, it's been @10 years, the stator was a direct bolt up, no washers underneath between the stator and case. This was done on the CM400 engine and Max was working with the 450 so that may be where the issue arose. I remember wanting to use bolts instead of screws but couldn't because of rotor interference. I didn't know about the countersinking until today.
He did send me the thicker wound one, @350 watts.
 
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He didn't tell me about any problems.
IIRC, it's been @10 years, the stator was a direct bolt up, no washers underneath between the stator and case.

The manual shows washers between the stator and the screws but not between the stator and the case. That’s also how it was when I took my stator off earlier today. Not sure if it’s different when doing the swap though.

Also thank you for the store recommendation for my stator LDR. I’ll be sending it to him tomorrow after work.
 
If I have understoord correctly, there should indeed originally be no washers under the stator. As 'Prutser' Maxim Baele wrote in his blog, the GL1000's stator made contact with two protruded edges in the crankcase (see the pic in his blog), which he tried to solve by putting washers underneath the stator. But again, he was trying to fit a rewounded stator and not an original one.

I have been in touch with Prutser about some modifications (in particular the RR and the Ignitech), but did not question him about this issue at the time. He also seems to have been offline since then.

I actively contacted a number of specialists some years ago, in both Belgium and the Netherlands; asking if they could rewind the stator of the CB400T. None could do this for me. I have also mailed Hans Belt from Sevior in that process. He was the only one familiar with the CB400t's unique stator (and Ignitech). He was reluctant to rewind it though, because he was afraid that the brittle housing of the ignition coils would break as he didn't have spares left anymore. He tipped me about the Ignitech instead (which I already knew and had one ordered). I can of course always ask him about what he still knows about 'Prutser's GL1000 stator challenge.

I had fitted the Ignitech in the meanwhile and seeing that this set-up currently works fine, did not feel the need to go for a next upgrade. But I am thinking about eventually either upgrading to the stator of GL1000, or maybe buying an original rewounded stator in the UK anyway. I just like originality (and the option to start your bike even when the battery is dead). Therefore I'm still curious how it will turn out when someone will try to fit an original and thus not rewounded GL1000 stator, and if that really can be a plug and play-solution.
 
Correct, in the stock configuration there are no washers between the stator and case, only on the screws.
The only purpose of going to the GL1000 stator is for running higher draw accessories like heated gloves. vests, etc. If you don't plan on using those items then there's really no point. The stock system puts out 170 watts of which you can use 130 of and still maintain enough reserve to keep the battery fully charged. Out of that 130 you have to deduct whatever lighting you run, in my case there's a 55/60w headlight.

@Rubicon: I have 2 NOS rotor/stator assemblies if you really want to stick original that are for sale. Coupled with the reverse engineered CDI Frank makes that look exactly like original https://www.vintagehondatwins.com/forums/index.php?threads/5684 ,less the Hitachi stamping, and no one would know the difference. I have to warn you that the import duties from the US are a killer.
 
The output is certainly sufficient for my needs at the moment, indeed. I am already thinking of a plan B if the old stator does (completely) give up the ghost.

Thanks for your offer, LDR, I appreciate it. But I have no reason - in this case - not to opt for an overhaul of the old stator. Like bbbikeshop in the UK offers, for example. Then everything is brand new. An NOS sounds attractive, but even these parts are almost half a century old by now. Unfortunately, the UK is no longer part of the European Union, so there is no distinction in customs charges for shipping items from the US, UK or Asia to Belgium. But, shipping will be cheaper and I may be able to combine it with a trip to the UK myself one day (as an anglophile, I seize any excuse to make a trip to the UK).

I read Maraakate's story, really brilliant. It does concern a CDI for the Hondamatic though, not for the manual speed. As an alternative, Rex Speed Shop offers a replacement CDi unit for the CB400/450 & CM400/450 twin, that also doesn't look too bad.
 
Oops, I linked the wrong CDI. Here's the correct one https://www.vintagehondatwins.com/forums/index.php?threads/6199
The Rex's CDI is good, I've had one on the CB400T1. The only thing I don't like is the mounting, the CDI will have to be removed to do a valve adjustment
RIMG0168.jpg
Yes you are seeing correctly, the supplied aluminum plate is bolted to the frame and the CDI is zip tied to the plate per the instructions.
I have switched over to using Frank's CDI now.
 
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