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Thread: CB350 K4 Tank is back!

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    CB350 K4 Tank is back!

    After 2 months at the painters ( car painter actually but recommended to me ) I got the tank back yesterday.
    Pretty good and I am well pleased with the result. Some pics of tank, naked and dressed and on the frame, and also the neutral switch I soldered a blob of silver solder on to as the brass contact was very thin.
    The closeup of the tank cap is showing my modification replacing the riveted pin, not enough length left on it to do another peen over, replaced with a 4m machine screw. I tapped the centre hole of the toggle thingy to match.
    Had to then trim off some of the thread on the end of the screws so it would got through the spring. It is a devil that spring. It is small and fiery and won't do as it is told when trying to compress it and screw the centre screw through.
    The spring has a short and a long arm. I found the only way it would go on nicely is with the long arm down, pressing on the tank.

    About the tank paint job.
    After basic metal prep, filling and priming the white strips were painted on first. Using really thin ( as in width ) vinyl tape. This was to reduce puckering over the compound curves.
    Then re-masked to paint the wide black stripes.
    Masked again for the Green main coat.
    Various coats were applied of each colour to match the paint thickness of the previous colour. Very time consuming but the result is after the Clear was applied you cannot feel any ridging over the stripes.
    I know this is not how Honda painted the tank in the factory as I am pretty sure stripes were the last to go on by hand.
    All two pack and oven baked.
    Main metallic Mist Green base coat is water based. Painter advised that better than using a solvent based paint as dries with a more uniform surface and much less microscopic pin holes in the paint where the solvents vented out from.
    By the way, all this was done from three hi res pictures I supplied stolen off the internet.


    IMG_2107.jpg IMG_2126.jpg IMG_2124.jpg IMG_2123.jpg IMG_2122.jpg IMG_2113.jpg IMG_2112.jpg IMG_2111.jpg

    Cheers

    Gary
    Auckland
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by ancientdad; 11.24.22 at 8:59 AM.

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    Senior Member ausman1000's Avatar
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    Very nice indeed! What was used for the bottom trim piece? it looks new.

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    From Sirius in Canada.
    https://www.siriusconinc.com/search_...rtno=&x=49&y=3
    have a scroll down this list.
    the only thing is they are a bit thicker than original..
    gary

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    Senior Member ausman1000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryJames View Post
    From Sirius in Canada.
    https://www.siriusconinc.com/search_...rtno=&x=49&y=3
    have a scroll down this list.
    the only thing is they are a bit thicker than original..
    gary
    Is it clear plastic coated like the original?

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    Administrator LongDistanceRider's Avatar
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    Beautiful work there
    Jim O'Brien
    1979 CM400T aka the Roadbike, 1978 CB400T1 semi restored, 1972 CL350K4 restoration and the 1971 SL350K1 disaster zone.
    Plus 2 SL350K0's , 2 SL350K1's, 1 CL350K0 and 1 CL350K1 waiting for space and time
    Contact: 408-239-9580 or [email protected]

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    Yes, semi polished aluminium and a clear plastic cover.
    they fit the bottom tank ridge okay and the tank metal clips bend in to keep them captive…so far.
    my original Honda ones are 1/2” wide measured half way along.
    These new ones are 5/8. “ wide at same point.
    To me that 1/8” difference is noticeable but I guess they look okay.
    Anyway these are the only after market ones I have found.
    cmsnl have Honda ones but they are 24.50 Euros each.
    or non oem pair at 30 Euros.probably the same as my ones!
    Gary

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    Looks beautiful.

    Just a suggestion, it might be an idea to rub back to bare steel in the area under the fuel cap, as petrol (gas) can creep under the edge of the paint and lift it. I've experienced this myself, and also Allen Millyard confirmed this, in a video that I was watching the other night.
    1972 CL175K7
    1970 CB174K4, 'upgraded' to a K6 alike
    1971 SL175, with a few non standard parts !
    1998 CB600 Hornet

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    Benevolent Dictator ancientdad's Avatar
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    Beautiful results, your painter did a nice job. Bike is coming along really well. Don't forget to properly aim the turn signals once the bike is sitting at typical ride height.
    (move along, nothing to see here)

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    Thanks AD,
    the turn signal mountings are only finger tight while I fuss about with the wiring.
    The mess in the headlight bucket needs to be tidied up.
    There is one thing I am puzzling over.
    the side headlight bucket mountings have a large nut on each side, inside. They have a fixed washer that slots into the shell moulding.
    there are also two earth wire connections coming from both fixed washers.
    since the headlight shell is plastic what are the two earth wires for?
    can’t be for each indicator stem mounting as they have a earth wire coming from the tensioning mount.
    puzzled I am…

    cheers

    Gary

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    Administrator LongDistanceRider's Avatar
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    Those are ground wires, your turn signals should have 2 wires coming out the stalk for original equipment. Some aftermarket versions have 3, 3rd being a ground wire.
    Jim O'Brien
    1979 CM400T aka the Roadbike, 1978 CB400T1 semi restored, 1972 CL350K4 restoration and the 1971 SL350K1 disaster zone.
    Plus 2 SL350K0's , 2 SL350K1's, 1 CL350K0 and 1 CL350K1 waiting for space and time
    Contact: 408-239-9580 or [email protected]

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    The headlight cases have the inner nuts to tighten the mounting bolts:sometimes they have a green ground wire soldered on each one.
    I've seen this used to 'ground' the steel headlight mounts so certain OEM turn signal bodies can be grounded to the system:the ones with only one wire.I plug both of the mounting nut green wires into one of the 4-gang green female ground wires on the harness in there.
    The steel headlight mounts/ears lack a ground connection because of the round rubber cushions which slide over the tops and bottoms of the headlight ears when they slide over the fork tubes.

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    Thanks team.
    my indicator lights have only one black wire coming out of the mounting stalk.
    testing shows the bulb illuminates when 12 v is applied to the black wire and Negative to the light mounting, stalk or body.
    looks like I don’t need the two green wires from the inner headlight shell mounting nuts.
    two wires less in there is a good thing!
    cheers

    Gary
    Auckland

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    G'day Gary,your front turn signals have only one wire? I was wondering where the mounting stalks get their earth/ground connections,if not from those 2) green wires described? I imagine the headlight ears/mounts may have lost their rubber cushions which isolate them from vibration(this can burn-out the headlight bulb)and may be making contact/ground/earth with the fork tubes.
    This fork tube earth connection can work on & off.. but is not a reliable solid earth connection.
    I recommend the green wires we've described in the earlier post.

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    Those two wires establish a good ground connection with the main loom, which is itself grounded to an engine mounting bolt.

    Otherwise, the only ground connection to the front end of the bike is through the steering head bearings and control cables such as the clutch cable, not exactly reliable connections.
    1972 CL175K7
    1970 CB174K4, 'upgraded' to a K6 alike
    1971 SL175, with a few non standard parts !
    1998 CB600 Hornet

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    My observation on my 1973 K4 model is that the green wires from the head shell mounting nuts are next to useless as an earth or chassis connection.
    the head shell is plastic so I assume the chassis ground was meant be via the top shroud ears then to the top tree or bottom tree, through the bearings to Frame ground.
    Problem as I see it is the shroud ears are mounted on rubber top and bottom and the head shell bolt is tightened on to a painted hole in the ear.
    I have run my chassis ground for the indicators from the inside nuts on the mounting stems then into the shell and one of the green chassis connections.

    Yellow terminal ends denote….only colour I had to hand. Black would be better.!

    CD1845B6-2AEB-4F31-8EED-9221F092EC23.jpg

    cheers
    Gary
    Auckland

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    I see how you did it That'll work also.

    I used the wire harness green earth connector to hook-up the headlight case mount nuts with the wires.
    I cleaned off the paint from the inner mount nuts w/ green wires so those 2) headlight ears would be grounded through the harness then I cleaned-off the paint around the back side of the mounting nuts for the turn signals to achieve an earth connection to them.
    I like how your earth/ground wires(yellow connector ring terminals)connect for ground.
    The handlebars are also rubber mounted and have their own factory ground strap from the bottom of the handlebar mount stem to a bolt on the forks.This will travel through the steering races to the ground/earth for the battery. The handlebars factory earth/ground strap has been used for other earth connections(turn signals or other accessories)on bikes I've seen before also. I like having plenty of Earth/ground connections on vintage vehicles;it will make my electrical systems and switches operate cool and save my switch contacts.

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    Apologies for labouring the point, but Honda certainly didn't design the ground path to be through the (hopefully) heavily greased head bearings.

    The grounded nuts securing the plastic head shell should make good continuity with the metal head lamp ears, then the turn signal stalks should make good contact with the metal ears, providing a route to ground for the negative side of the flashers. That is how Honda intended it to be.

    Subsequent layers of paint or simple corrosion often means that this ground route is compromised, but as it came from the factory it certainly worked as designed.
    1972 CL175K7
    1970 CB174K4, 'upgraded' to a K6 alike
    1971 SL175, with a few non standard parts !
    1998 CB600 Hornet

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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Pitman View Post
    Apologies for labouring the point, but Honda certainly didn't design the ground path to be through the (hopefully) heavily greased head bearings.

    The grounded nuts securing the plastic head shell should make good continuity with the metal head lamp ears, then the turn signal stalks should make good contact with the metal ears, providing a route to ground for the negative side of the flashers. That is how Honda intended it to be.

    Subsequent layers of paint or simple corrosion often means that this ground route is compromised, but as it came from the factory it certainly worked as designed.
    Most certainly,thanks Richard

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