Getting those side cover screws loose can be a booger. You may (probably) have to use a manual impact driver that you whack with a BIG hammer.
So, here is my suggestion for that: Get the forks on first, then the fender and front wheel. Then get the rear swingarm, rear fender (with the taillight wiring in it) and then the rear wheel.
Why? So that the bike will have some more mass and be more stable for whacking and wrenching on the engine. You can leave the lift attached (if there is room) and lower it on it's wheels to make it more stable.
Another thing is to not use #2 phillips impact bits, official JIS cross bits are much better at getting the screws loose without mangling the heads. Search JIS on ebay or amazon and manual impact driver. I have an 18 and 24 volt impact driver and the manual whacker style driver works waaaay better.
Another tip is to only whack twice, if it doesn't budge, stop and feel the screw head with your finger if it is not smooth (rough) it is starting to deform and you want to tap tap with a flat nose punch or ball peen to get it smooth before further whacks with the driver. This not only saves your screws but saves a lot of tedious drilling heads off screws that are toasted and then using a vise grips to unscrew the stumps. I rarely loose a screw this way and just got every one of the screws loose on an ultra funky barn find motor recently.
Oh, and presoak them all with PBblaster first. The shock from peening the heads does help the PB penetrate too.