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Where to start on reassembling 1975 Honda CB 360t

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Steelfingers

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May 10, 2022
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276
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Location
Oklahoma
Ok. Painting is done new everything including tires, chain, bearing electrical...everything. Stripped down to the frame and engine. Where do you suggest I start? Electrical, rims, breaks???????
Suggestions please.
Hers the bonds of her ready to get dressed.

 

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I would finish the suspension, wheels, etc. and then do the wiring harness. That way everything it connects to is present and you can maneuver the harness to fit the 1st time
 
Thank you. First person to offer suggestions. I'm comfortable with that and that's where I'll begin. More from you is appreciated. I'll get this part done first
 
Make sure you figure out whether you have to put on the fenders before the wheels. Some of the wiring may go under the rear fender - I don't know about your bike. The rear brakes are best reviewed before you put the wheel on, same with the front.

When you put together the bike there's a temptation to put something together loosely because you might have to wiggle things to get them lined up later. That's a sure road to forgetting to tighten things and something always slips your mind. Better to do it right the first time. If you have to leave it loose, make a note. A sheet of paper on a clipboard hanging from the bars with a coathanger hook should always be near enough that you'll make that note.
 
Thank you guys so much. My first taken down this far but it's my last bike and I want it be all me and done right. THANK YOU. All of your suggestions will be taken to heart and thankful for
 
I have a board meeting today but I intend to remove panels *engine" and cover bike then polish the stuff that needs polished. Then I'll lay a sheet down an put all new parts on it and start assembly.
Thanks again
 
I cleaned my work shed like only an OCD cat can do, so I'm ready to lay out all my parts on white sheets putting items in order of where they will be going on the bike. I'll start with taking off the engine covers and drain the oil/clean the metal centrifugal oil filter. Tape off the area and cover the entire frame with plastic as well as all the parts on the floor and work bench. Wheel polishing creates some particles in the air. After I get these where I want, I'll attach them and their gaskets to the engine.
The assembly will begin with the suggestions I've received (and hope to receive more).
One of the parts companies I've bought a ton of stuff from has not responded to a request for suggestions. I'm going to be very disappointed if they just leave me in the wind after spending that much with them. We shall see. Top quality products though. I hope they keep me the consumer in mind. I think they will but it's been 3 days. I won't toss them in the dirt regardless.
 
Getting those side cover screws loose can be a booger. You may (probably) have to use a manual impact driver that you whack with a BIG hammer.
So, here is my suggestion for that: Get the forks on first, then the fender and front wheel. Then get the rear swingarm, rear fender (with the taillight wiring in it) and then the rear wheel.
Why? So that the bike will have some more mass and be more stable for whacking and wrenching on the engine. You can leave the lift attached (if there is room) and lower it on it's wheels to make it more stable.

Another thing is to not use #2 phillips impact bits, official JIS cross bits are much better at getting the screws loose without mangling the heads. Search JIS on ebay or amazon and manual impact driver. I have an 18 and 24 volt impact driver and the manual whacker style driver works waaaay better.
Another tip is to only whack twice, if it doesn't budge, stop and feel the screw head with your finger if it is not smooth (rough) it is starting to deform and you want to tap tap with a flat nose punch or ball peen to get it smooth before further whacks with the driver. This not only saves your screws but saves a lot of tedious drilling heads off screws that are toasted and then using a vise grips to unscrew the stumps. I rarely loose a screw this way and just got every one of the screws loose on an ultra funky barn find motor recently.

Oh, and presoak them all with PBblaster first. The shock from peening the heads does help the PB penetrate too.
 
Boy did I find that out. I bought a full set of upper and lower allen head bolts to replace those factory phillips. Also, those ph screws are Japanese version. Normal us scewdrivers don't fit. Regardless, they were all froze and stripped. Took an impact driver to remove them and be sure to do it right if you've never used one. I used the blaster penetrating oil and let it set, re applying for a few days, then using a heat gun. Got them all replaced except one that took more time and effort. I advise everyone to replace those and when you reinstall use anti freeze on the threads. They work just like blue lock tight but you can break them loose pretty smooth. Remember one of them panels has to come off to clean the oil filter so this makes it a breeze.
I also replaced the screws on the stater cover using the same method as well.
Thank you for the info, please offer as much as you can as I will need it.
 
I'm pooped. All I've done today was remove side panels clean filter (hardly any sludge and no metal shavings....cool) and spent the day polishing said panels. I've ran the wheel off my wheel and burnt up a nice Dewalt cordless drill. I hope they still have a lifetime warranty. This one was a combo and I don't think it's year old. Anyone know?
Anyway. I'm spent. I'll finish polishing down the right side panel tomorrow morning. Add 1.6 quarts of oil and lucas zinc treatment. I'm using the Rotella 15W 40 unless someone has experience with another
 
I've got most of the side engine panels done when I came up with a way to get the small areas. I'll be finished tomorrow with these and on with the show.
 
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