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Disassembly of my 74 360 questions

Do you think i should get specific wheel bearing grease? I have the tub of red grease i used for the clutch lifter mechanism


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What is the intended use for the grease? Probably wouldn't matter since the steering head bearings don't get anywhere near as hot as wheel bearings or engine parts.
 
I wish that candy bacchus olive was a paint that was mass produced. I think that it was unfortunately for me a three stage paint

Here is the new paint on my remaining side cover. I think i’m going to take it off though. I want a dark forrest green like the candy bacchus olive. I used duplicolor perfect match, but can’t find any greens that don’t have a color shifting vibe from the 90s
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You won't find it in Duplicolor. However a local automotive paint shop should be able to reproduce the color and put it into spray cans for you. More expensive but you get what you want.
 
You won't find it in Duplicolor. However a local automotive paint shop should be able to reproduce the color and put it into spray cans for you. More expensive but you get what you want.

okay thanks i’ll have to think about it. If i find just a random rustoleum color i like can i use it? Or does it need to be something specifically for automotive

Anyways, here’s a test paint of the frame. It’s the brake stop arm, painted in heavy winds so not very good lol. I was told by many people surprisingly that appliance epoxy works great on motorcycle frames
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Appliance Epoxy is great for frames. For the tank and covers you can use pretty much anything but if it automotive focused that's better. Once that paint is done the way you like you'll need to shoot at least one coat of an epoxy clear over it, otherwise the first fuel spill will ruin the paint. Most of use use the SprayMaxx 2K epoxy clear BUT read the MDS sheet because the stuff is really bad for your lungs, skin, etc.
 
Appliance Epoxy is great for frames. For the tank and covers you can use pretty much anything but if it automotive focused that's better. Once that paint is done the way you like you'll need to shoot at least one coat of an epoxy clear over it, otherwise the first fuel spill will ruin the paint. Most of use use the SprayMaxx 2K epoxy clear BUT read the MDS sheet because the stuff is really bad for your lungs, skin, etc.

YES! I’m glad i got it right, i ordered some 2k clear this morning. I’m glad i have the one side cover left to test the paint on before i commit to the tank. I was going for this, but i definitely don’t like it anymore
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Of course i will not be chopping the bike up like he did though, just a color inspiration


Does the steering stem remove from the bottom triple clamp? I was trying to sand it but i think i’m just going to get it sand blasted it’s going to be near impossible to sand where i need to


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A big ol bug landed in my freshly painted side cover! And then of course as i do, i knocked it face down into the grass trying to remove it
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Just imagine the tank and the side covers on a non butchered bike and that’s what i’m going for lol


BUT, speaking of side covers, has anyone bought from this guy? http://www.retrocb.com/index.html
I guess he makes them himself, and lots of random little things for vintage hondas
I ordered my missing side and it’s already in the mail so we’ll see


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It always happens when you get a good coat of paint on something that is very visible, it's painter's luck. Let it fully dry, sand it lightly and put another coat on it. A few here have bought from Retrocb, he seems to have a good reputation.
 
It always happens when you get a good coat of paint on something that is very visible, it's painter's luck. Let it fully dry, sand it lightly and put another coat on it. A few here have bought from Retrocb, he seems to have a good reputation.

Good to know, and if all works out i see he has the rubber grommets for the original air filters. If i ever find any, i may buy those. I still have mine, but i can’t imagine they will offer “peak performance”


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I think i am going to get the frame sand blasted by somebody. I was quoted $100 for sandblasting the frame and $300 to powdercoat it. The appliance paint is working great so i think i’ll stick with that.

What needs removed? I think they can cover the vin plate. I’ll remove the 4 top rubber side cover grommets. I think there are 2 grommets where the rear fender attaches? The rubber looks pretty toast


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I think i changed my mind, i’m trying to do it myself. The company said it’d take 3 days to do it, there arent that many paintable days left.

How do i remove the gas cap? I’d like to paint that today. Do i need to break the pins that hold it on?


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I think this piston on the left is clean enough, it’s the right side one. I made some progress on the other but it’s not quite there yet. Are those 4 hashes on it something to worry about?
I’ll try to take the rings off and look at the ring lands next.

I still haven’t been able to get the gas cap off, i may just wait until spring to paint now


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Unfortunately, ballbearian’s ides from the fall did not work for the cylinders. Sucks, all the other ones came out fine


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Do you have a heat gun to warm the aluminum to help with getting it out? Aluminum expands more than steel so it should help.
 
Sorry it didn't work Avery. I had a whole numbered, lettered and fractional set of bits to get the closest fitting one, maybe a strip of aluminum can instead of tape. AD's heat suggestion is probably the best, also try re-clamping the vicegrips at 90 degrees going around a few times to get the PBblaster to work in and gently tapping the vice grips for shock vibrations too.
 
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I finally got that ******* out.
Lots of heat fun and pb blaster but i eventually resorted to brute force with plier. I wrapped them in a lot of duct tape but i think this guy is still toast


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Nah, it still looks usable, just take a file to it lightly to smooth off the burrs. I've seen worse when they were rusted in place.
 
That’s good to hear. Should take some light sand paper to it and smooth out the gouges? I assume do not sand the end that needs to be snugly fit

Also, here’s some freshly decked cylinders[emoji16]
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File all the high spots off, don't worry about the gouges.
These are supposed to fit less than snug but not loose. You should be able to slide them up/down in their bores with fingertips. Pay attention to the bore they fit in
 
. . . and bear in mind that you can buy brand new replacements for all four of those hollow dowels for less than $10. Just sayin'.
 
. . . and bear in mind that you can buy brand new replacements for all four of those hollow dowels for less than $10. Just sayin'.

Amazingly still available. Fortunately not everything about engine assembly changes over the decades.
 
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