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Stator Test

cowboy

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Total Posts
26
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0
Location
LEICESTER ENGLAND
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Hi All. Can any of you electrical guru's tell me how to test if the stator is working OK by telling me what terminals to put my multimeter probes into whilst set to ohms and what readings to expect if OK. Saw video's on the tube but not specific to the CB175 . Photos of the connector from the stator on my bike above. Suspect it is not working as the voltage at the battery doesn't increase with revs up to 5.5k.
 
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Ignore the green/red wire, that runs to the neutral light switch. The other three wires are the a/c leads, it's odd they're all the same color, is that an aftermarket replacement alternator? Are there colored wires on the main harness plug where that connects?
 
Unfortunately the FSM does not mention any values for stator testing, just continuity.

175 stator.jpg
 
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Hi Mike. The 3 wires are covered in a black mesh. I have opened them up and this is what's beneath. Looks like 3 white wires. Just had a look at what it connects to and there are Red, pink, green and yellow wires coming from it.
 
View attachment 16109

Hi Mike. The 3 wires are covered in a black mesh. I have opened them up and this is what's beneath. Looks like 3 white wires. Just had a look at what it connects to and there are Red, pink, green and yellow wires coming from it.

Theirs a Diode test for the Pink, Yellow and White. (All the White Wires from the Stator)

The Green/Red is Neutral Safety Switch and goes into Wire Harness.

The Pink, Yellow and White (All the White Wires) go to your Regulator/Rectifier converting AC to DC and will charge (or maintain really) the Battery

You can do a bench Diode Stator Test to see and then you can also do a Voltage test while the Bike is running to see what output each wire is giving with your multimeter.

With the Diode Test while not running, you’ll do a Polarity and Reverse polarity test to see your readings

Connect MM (multimeter) to Ground check each white wire, write those numbers down

Connect MM to Power check each white wire, write those numbers down

Should be between 400-500 for diode test

Switch MM to Voltage (20) and connect to Ground, test each wire

You should not get a reading doing this, if you do it could be a break in whichever wire.

The test while running is most accurate and tells you what’s going on with your Stator.

I would see what the battery is doing while running with a multimeter, if it’s maintaining power etc.

Regulators and Rectifiers can be the culprit in these older bikes.

The Multimeter is your friend and will tell you what’s going on with your bike


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View attachment 16109

Hi Mike. The 3 wires are covered in a black mesh. I have opened them up and this is what's beneath. Looks like 3 white wires. Just had a look at what it connects to and there are Red, pink, green and yellow wires coming from it.

I’m sorry, the diode test is for Regulator Rectifier

The Bench Stator output tests will be connecting your Multimeter @200 Ohms to

Yellow wire to Pink

then White

then

Pink to white


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Thanks crazyhorse. Will give it a go. The battery voltage stays steady at 12.6v even when reved up to 5.5 - 6k which makes me think the Stator is Kaput.
 
Thanks crazyhorse. Will give it a go. The battery voltage stays steady at 12.6v even when reved up to 5.5 - 6k which makes me think the Stator is Kaput.

I’d definitely check the Reg/Rectifier too, there’s tests for those and they go out often


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Before you start throwing parts at it, repeat your tests at the rectifier connection, to rule out any problems in the main wire harness. A quick and easy way to tell if the stator is actually putting out some watts is to connect an old seal beam headlight across two of the terminals and start the engine, the headlight should light up, getting brighter with more revs.
 
They work fine, I have them in all three of my 175s. Earliest one has been in for several years / 1000's of miles without problems.

On that bike, I took green and red wires direct to the battery, bypasses any issues with an elderly Honda loom.
 
Well I have done the tests and it seems dead as I get no readings so can anyone tell me if a stator from a CB200 will fit on a CB175.
 
I have just done another test using 4 male spades plugged into the socket from the stator as I wasn't confident that I was getting a good connection. No readings on ohms setting but started the bike and ignoring the green terminal connecting 2 of the other 3 wire in any combination was getting AC output from around 13v at tickover increasing to over 40v when increasing the revs so am I right in assuming the stator is working OK. Could it be the reg/rec which is at fault as when I connected everything back together and started the bike up the voltage at the battery only increased by .2v when reved up to 5k.
 
IF you are getting 13 to 40 VAC dependent on revs your stator is fine and it is quite likely that the problem lies in the rectifier/regulator or the wiring and connections to and from it......
This is one of the reasons we suggest bypassing the loom and connecting stator wires to R/R and from the R/R on directly to battery......

The fault is often simply a lack of ground (B-) connection from the rectifier and can be verified by running a direct ground wire from under the rectifier mounting nut to the Battery negative....If it then charges, you have your answer.....
 
It certainly sounds like the rec/reg unit is limiting the output based on what you've said. Is it a modern combo unit, or do you mean the old separate components (rectifier and regulator)?
 
I will try the earthing tip. Not sure what the reg/rec is as it has been on since rebuild 7yrs ago. If the earthing doesn't work I will dig it out and have a look. I have got one of the one's Richard recommended.
 
I'm away from my PC this week, down in very sunny Devon. A CB 200 stator is a direct swap and provides a tad more power than the 175 part.
 
I'm away from my PC this week, down in very sunny Devon. A CB 200 stator is a direct swap and provides a tad more power than the 175 part.

Thanks for checking in Richard, I noticed you weren't around so I figured you and your wife might be away enjoying yourselves.
 
Looking at a few videos a lot of rec/regs there seem to be two lots of wires with plugs. The CB just has one plug. How does it work with power going in with no visible output.
 
AC power goes in through the Pink and the Yellow wires.....
Converted to DC and regulated power comes out (to battery) through the Red (positive) and Green (earth/ground/negative).....
Rectifier/Regulator may read charging voltage internally through the Red wire, or some have a fifth wire that reads the voltage in the Black wiring on the bike.....
 
Looking at a few videos a lot of rec/regs there seem to be two lots of wires with plugs. The CB just has one plug. How does it work with power going in with no visible output.

If you're looking for a quality unit that will work perfectly with your bike and you'll get good support from the seller too, this is the one you want.

http://www.sparckmoto.com/Products/Detail/7
 
Thanks for the replies. I will have to strip it back a bit to get to the rec,reg and harness and do some testing to see if the red wire does go to the battery and check the earth connection where it bolts to the frame and will do as suggested and run a wire direct from the mounting bolt to the battery.
 
When I said that the CB200 stator was a direct swap I should have added the proviso that the neutral switch connector is different, the CB200 has a proper switch rather than the 175s bits of bent brass. Easy to change the connector though, just something to be aware of, just needs a male bullet connector.

As for the wiring, here's a pic of a 4 wire aftermarket rectifier, and a loom that I made up for one of my 175s, the yellow wire and the white wire from the stator joined together at the stator plug. I've gone a bit more elaborate since then using more block connectors etc, but this shows the circuit in its simplest form. Red wire to battery via (optional) in line fuse, green direct to battery -ve, rather than to frame ground. Battery also connects to frame ground via existing thick cable to engine mounting bolt.

SZHqjaC.jpg


Note separate lead for neutral switch, plugs into existing stator block connector, which is otherwise not used in this setup. On a five wire reg rec there is an additional black wire, which should be connected to a switched live wire, for example the black wire left when the old voltage regulator is discarded. If that is removed, blank off the yellow wire, and take the green wire to frame ground. All sounds much more complicated than it actually is. Not rocket science, as the brain surgeon once remarked ..

kCaRYc6.jpg
 
Thanks Richard. Big help. Now just got to find which of the three white wires from the stator on mine equates to the yellow and white wires you describe.
 
Easily done..... Measure AC Voltage between the three possible pairings of two of the three wires.....
Outputs higher than 15V at idle will occur twice (two pairings) and whatever wire is common to those pairings is the Pink wire to the R/R....
Lowest output Voltage (less than 6) will be from the white and yellow pairing....Connect them together and to the R/R Yellow.....
 
Thanks for explaining that in layman's terms. Much appreciated. Electrics are not my strong point. Should be able to sort it now. Will update if successful.
 
SUCCESS. Following 66Sprint's post above I have identified the pink, white and yellow wires from the stator. After cutting off the connector block from the new reg/rec that I got on Richard's reccomandation I joined the White and yellow from stator and connected to yellow from RR, pink to pink then red and green to battery. Started the bike and eureka. It worked. Volts now at 14.4 when reved. Then wired up to original RR on the bike but the volts just carried on rising when reved so I reckon that is broken. Just got to figure out a place to mount the new RR as it is too big to go where original is bolted. Many thanks to all for your input.
 
There's a couple of easy places to mount the new reg rec. First is on the frame, where the original voltage regulator sat. If your bike is a UK version it won't have a voltage regulator ( goodness knows why we didn't get one ), but it will have the two M6 threaded holes in the frame. You'll need to file the mounting holes in the heat sink to get this to line up.

ZPqSlPb.jpg


Alternatively, underneath the battery box, taking care not to let the battery sit directly on the bolt heads. This photo is my SL175, but should work equally well on a CB175.

vTKN5Bm.jpg
 
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