kbongos
Veteran Member
I got LED lights in from ebay. Cheapest I could find, in vast quantities to make up for cheapness. For the most part they are working just fine, with a few issues. First was the blinker control issue. The original blinker control only works with original high current bulbs. I knew this, but just forgot about it when ordering LED replacement lights. Started with swapping indicators, that was fine, but getting to blinker and then I recalled how these old blinker controls(in a can) are bi-metal heat up control type and barely work with the original bulbs, assuming all are working and sucking the needed current. So I grudgingly ordered the cheapest electronic one I could find. Plugged it in one way and it didn't work so good, switched connectors around and it was blinking. It even has what looks like a speed control adjuster on it.
$6 - 2-Pin 12V Electronic LED Flasher Relay Fix Turn Signal Bulbs Hyper Flash Issue https://www.ebay.com/itm/124280731352
$7 - 10Pcs 1156 BAY15D 22 SMD LED White Car Bulb Lights Brake/ Stop/ Reverse Lamps US https://www.ebay.com/itm/233654659842
$7 - 20PCS Super White BA9S LED Interior Dome Instrument Panel Dash Gauge Light Bulbs https://www.ebay.com/itm/113967594128
$8 - 10Pcs 1157 BAY15D 22-LED 1206 SMD Brake Turn Signal Light Bulb Lamp White https://www.ebay.com/itm/233474465124
Now on to the turn signals. When I tried one in front it would blink but would not stay on steady as riding light. These are the 2 element 1157 style. Some troubleshooting showed that these use +12v when turned on, but the turn light element is grounded when no turn switch active(just running light). With independent filaments this is not an issue, but these LED lights just shared the same set of LED's with 2 resistors setting current. And it didn't work with this odd grounding of one. I took the LED light apart and put in a few diodes to fix the issue(thinking I was pretty smart). But then afterwards I figured out I'm not so smart and it would suck to have to do this modification again, and probably a better fix would be to put a diode in the turn signal wire to the front lights so this 'standard' cheap LED light would work. So then I took the time to measure things to determine that turn filament side is problem child that is grounded, running side is fine where it just opens(No Connect) when off. So I would just need diode in turn wire, and that should work even with older bulb in case I want to switch back - might be slightly less bright, no big deal. Plan on doing this, the diodes put in the bulb did work, but I don't want to be taking them apart.
Looking into socket, you have two posts, one deep and at 10:00 position, other shallow(half way at 4:00 position) . This gives run connector on right(9 oclock), turn at left(3:00 oclock). Brake light is similar where left is running light, right is brake. And Brake side and turn are brighter(more current). For 1157 filament I tested and found .56A left, 1.7A right(2.23A both on). For LED replacement measured 54mA and 71mA(108mA together). The back turn lights are only single filament(1156), I measured 1.7A filament, LED replacement was 70mA. Indicator light was 220mA filament, 20mA LED.
I did want to run with old and new in place just to see how they compared. I did a little of this, and thought the LED is vastly uglier and not as gratifying as the slow turn on/off and pleasant spectral quality of the filament. But enough fooling around, I'm going all LED and we will give it time, see how they behave. I'll keep the old just in case the LED's leave me feeling empty inside or break down every 5 miles.
I will have all these extra amps. Hopefully my regulator or stator does not burn out shunting all those un-needed amps back to the stator. Or perhaps I can burn them up in some other useful way, more modernizing gadgets! I like the idea of adding sensors with a smart display, show temperatures, pressures, accurate RPM, the list could go on and on. Welcome to the future my dear vintage honda from the past.
PS. My update where I switched bright and regular wire connect to the headlamp and added toggle switch for bright worked out well. This gives me control of turning headlamp on with bright switch, and indicator light is a bonus telling me my light is on and letting me know if it's not on due to this switch or the flaky starter button it is wired into that I have to giggle. I really don't need a bright(can just manually position headlamp a little while riding), so switch is just as a backup headlamp in case bulb fails.
$6 - 2-Pin 12V Electronic LED Flasher Relay Fix Turn Signal Bulbs Hyper Flash Issue https://www.ebay.com/itm/124280731352
$7 - 10Pcs 1156 BAY15D 22 SMD LED White Car Bulb Lights Brake/ Stop/ Reverse Lamps US https://www.ebay.com/itm/233654659842
$7 - 20PCS Super White BA9S LED Interior Dome Instrument Panel Dash Gauge Light Bulbs https://www.ebay.com/itm/113967594128
$8 - 10Pcs 1157 BAY15D 22-LED 1206 SMD Brake Turn Signal Light Bulb Lamp White https://www.ebay.com/itm/233474465124
Now on to the turn signals. When I tried one in front it would blink but would not stay on steady as riding light. These are the 2 element 1157 style. Some troubleshooting showed that these use +12v when turned on, but the turn light element is grounded when no turn switch active(just running light). With independent filaments this is not an issue, but these LED lights just shared the same set of LED's with 2 resistors setting current. And it didn't work with this odd grounding of one. I took the LED light apart and put in a few diodes to fix the issue(thinking I was pretty smart). But then afterwards I figured out I'm not so smart and it would suck to have to do this modification again, and probably a better fix would be to put a diode in the turn signal wire to the front lights so this 'standard' cheap LED light would work. So then I took the time to measure things to determine that turn filament side is problem child that is grounded, running side is fine where it just opens(No Connect) when off. So I would just need diode in turn wire, and that should work even with older bulb in case I want to switch back - might be slightly less bright, no big deal. Plan on doing this, the diodes put in the bulb did work, but I don't want to be taking them apart.
Looking into socket, you have two posts, one deep and at 10:00 position, other shallow(half way at 4:00 position) . This gives run connector on right(9 oclock), turn at left(3:00 oclock). Brake light is similar where left is running light, right is brake. And Brake side and turn are brighter(more current). For 1157 filament I tested and found .56A left, 1.7A right(2.23A both on). For LED replacement measured 54mA and 71mA(108mA together). The back turn lights are only single filament(1156), I measured 1.7A filament, LED replacement was 70mA. Indicator light was 220mA filament, 20mA LED.
I did want to run with old and new in place just to see how they compared. I did a little of this, and thought the LED is vastly uglier and not as gratifying as the slow turn on/off and pleasant spectral quality of the filament. But enough fooling around, I'm going all LED and we will give it time, see how they behave. I'll keep the old just in case the LED's leave me feeling empty inside or break down every 5 miles.
I will have all these extra amps. Hopefully my regulator or stator does not burn out shunting all those un-needed amps back to the stator. Or perhaps I can burn them up in some other useful way, more modernizing gadgets! I like the idea of adding sensors with a smart display, show temperatures, pressures, accurate RPM, the list could go on and on. Welcome to the future my dear vintage honda from the past.
PS. My update where I switched bright and regular wire connect to the headlamp and added toggle switch for bright worked out well. This gives me control of turning headlamp on with bright switch, and indicator light is a bonus telling me my light is on and letting me know if it's not on due to this switch or the flaky starter button it is wired into that I have to giggle. I really don't need a bright(can just manually position headlamp a little while riding), so switch is just as a backup headlamp in case bulb fails.
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