Fuse box replacement

As many people have discovered the Honda fuse block with the glass fuses has inherent problems. The brass clips that the fuses snap into become corroded making poor connections. People install SAE automotive fuses that are too long where on one it ends up only 1/2 connected which results in overheating of the connection and melting the fuse block. Plus the cover for the fuse box is frequently missing which allows water into the connections.
The answer is to update the fuse block/box to modern ATC blade type fuses. There are several different versions available and an internet search for auxiliary fuse box will give you lots of choices.
Replacement is as simple as removing the old part and matching up the 6 wires into the correct pairs for each circuit they control. Then cut the wires off the old part and solder them onto the new one. Solve how you want to mount it on the left electrical panel and you'll now have easy to find fuses if you blow one and a good reliable connection for years to come.
I did this conversion in 2011 after melting a fuse block in the middle of nowhere Maine, I lived in California, at night and lost my headlight. I found a 5 position part made by Littel Fuse to use in an auto parts store and solved the problem.

The nice thing about a 5 position unit is you have 2 free slots for extra fuses or installing extra circuits for things like heated grips.

I did Jim's suggestion and upgraded my CM450E to a 4 position ATC unit, giving me one extra fuse for accessories. Some niggling issues with variable light brightness was solved, I can check fuses without breaking their glass bodies, and I can find replacement fuses anywhere.

When selecting a fuse box, be careful to avoid those having a common bus on one side. Choose only a fuse box where each fuse has 2 unique connectors, on either side of the box.

Forum sponsor Sparck Moto offers a 4 position fuse box, similar to the one I used: http://www.sparckmoto.com/Products/Detail/109

Besides cutting wires, one option is to remove the OEM wire spade connectors from the connector shell with a thin bladed screwdriver, and slide in your own. A pricier option is to purchase new replacement connector shells and crimp terminals, and replace the whole thing. That's what I did (see below).

Vintage Connections offers M/F spade connectors that work in OEM connector shells: https://www.vintageconnections.com/collections/terminals

If you crimp your own wires, you will need an "open barrel" crimper like this one: https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/ratcheting-crimping-tool
Cheaper stamped tool versions exist that don't have the ratchet, but you can't use the Walmart crimpers that are missing the heart-shaped Open Barrel crimp stations.

The pricier option, I used the Journeyman connector kit from 4into1, another reputable vendor: https://4into1.com/the-journeyman-locking-connector-kit/
(I can't find the larger connectors on the VC site).

I didn't have wires that matched OEM colors at that time, so I tried to use the base color and then colored heat shrink to match the stripe on the OEM wire, or a black wire and one or two colored heat shrinks to match the OEM wire base and stripe colors. Since the OEM connector shell was red and the replacement pale white, I used a red Sharpie to match the color.

Nice work Ken. You might consider adding some liquid electrical tape to the exposed spades, pretty messy stuff though.