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CL175 left carb removal

TMSHORT

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2021
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194
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Location
NOBLESVILLE, INDIANA, USA
Before I dig in and do something stupid, is it possible to remove the left carb from a CL175 without pulling the exhaust?

My brother was in town this weekend, the bike had been sitting through the winter and we got it out to ride, right float was sticking and fuel running out the overflow. I’ve got that one on the bench for cleaning. Would like to do the L at the same time but am trying to keep this “project” from turning into a weeks long disassembly where I keep finding stuff I “need” to fix (on a bike that was running fine before winter).

Thanks…

Thomas
 
I haven't worked on a true CL in a long time (one with CL pipes still on it) so I can't say for sure, but typically most left side stuff like sidecover, air cleaner and carb require the pipes to at least be loosened and shifted outwards, if not removed.

Did you drain the carbs for winter?
 
ancientdad said:
Did you drain the carbs for winter?
Click to expand...

:neutral:
No comment…

I thought I did (meant to), but it turns out I hadn’t! I only use ethanol free gas, and use Stabil and a bit of sea foam (that’s my superstitious concoction) - all the other dozen or so carb’d engines I have on lawn tools, etc sit all winter and start right up.

Based on the way this looks inside they probably need it anyway…
 
Pulled R carb, disassembled and ran it through the ultrasonic cleaner with 50:50 hot water and purple simple green.
All back together and she runs like a top. Idles great, no more fuel overflow.

Based on the inside of the carb, the other one likely needs cleaned as well, but I am not going to mess with it right now.

However, I found some other stuff that is simply infuriating. I bought the bike online from an auction site based on pics and description.

That a dealer would do some of this stuff and pass it off as fixed is completely INFURIATING!!
57D9CDBE-6A89-470D-8156-BC37296D8429.jpg
E19F7417-ACA2-4938-9BC1-087911838577.jpg
1A950F41-61B0-4EBE-9624-FAEFEEBC4CA1.jpg

I mean, I would have to try HARD to do a wiring (and electrical taping, if it was even OK to do) job that ****ty! Nuts. And that’s the rear brake light, so it’s a tad important.

More stuff to fix…
 
Nasty. Not sure which is worse, that the 'mechanic' did this out of ignorance, assuming it would be OK, or did it in the full knowledge that he/she was simply being lazy and cutting corners. Either way, shameful.

In answer to original question, yes you can get the left hand carb off without disturbing the exhaust, just needs patience, and some pushing and shoving of the air filter boot.

( Yesterday afternoon I swapped the main jets on my CL175. Didn't remove the carbs, 'just' dropped the float bowls, accessing the left carb from the right hand side of the bike. Fiddly but doable )
 
Yeah, that's pretty disgusting work there. But, that's a fairly typical example of why we tell people to do their own work, since there are many "shops" out there that work on vintage bikes with this level (or lack of) quality.
 
I don't know what they used for fuel line, but the "new" line is already cracked and leaking, not to mention the zip-tie repair in the pic above.

What do you all like for in-line fuel filters?
 
Personally I'm not one for inline filters (the large single inline filter I use on my 450 is as much for a reservoir as it is for filtering), but your best fuel line to replace that clear, already-getting-hard junk that's on there is the 5.5mm Honda fuel line from 4into1. https://4into1.com/genuine-honda-black-fuel-line-5-5mm-5-feet/ Sadly they've gone to selling it in 5 foot lengths only
 
I removed the carbs on my CL175 earler this week without messing with the exhaust. Pull right carb first. Use a needle noise Vice Grip pliers, and remove the two carburetor to intake manifold screws on the left carb. Remove the screws holding the air filter. Carb slipped right out with out removing exhaust or left side cover.
 
ckahleer said:
I removed the carbs on my CL175 earler this week without messing with the exhaust. Pull right carb first. Use a needle noise Vice Grip pliers, and remove the two carburetor to intake manifold screws on the left carb. Remove the screws holding the air filter. Carb slipped right out with out removing exhaust or left side cover.
Click to expand...

Ha! I was looking it over yesterday and thinking the same thing … “if I could get those two screws out, it might slide out without having to come off over the studs in the head…”. I’ve got a couple creative small modified bits that fit small ratchets, might work great for this.

Thanks for the input guys.
 
My mistake. I thought the clear, yellowed fuel lines were origional. Maybe then they are not as old as I thought, and that is why they are so pliable. Since I like my bikes looking as close to origional as I can reasonably get them, I'll also change them for black lines.
 
I’m an originality nut, too - I like everything to be as close to stock as possible.

Any word I can say about these fuel lines would get turned into ****’s by the software …. Suffice it to say I am sure Honda would never use anything of this low quality.
 
Partzilla shows the tank crossover hose as 5.5mm. The petcock to carburetor hoses 4.5mm.
 
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