Matt offers the lighting sockets http://sparckmoto.com/Products/Controls--Switches--Lighting
Didn't realize he had them at Sparck Moto, that's good to know.
Matt offers the lighting sockets http://sparckmoto.com/Products/Controls--Switches--Lighting
One theory is that plate was added so that in event of a chain break or a dismount it might help prevent the chain from wrapping around the axle and seizing the rear wheel. However, I've the subject discussed before and there's no consensus.It looks like later CB350s added a sprocket side plate, which I would guess is a safety improvement. Would this plate fit on an older wheel that originally did not have one?
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One theory is that plate was added so that in event of a chain break or a dismount it might help prevent the chain from wrapping around the axle and seizing the rear wheel. However, I've the subject discussed before and there's no consensus.
Sorry, long gone years ago. The only place that I know sold some sprockets with the guard was Parts Unlimited but just looked and don't see any.Thanks for your input. I guess I don't have to have one, but I'm used to seeing the one on my CB360 and I kinda wanted to put one on this bike, regardless of it's intended function. Maybe LDR can fish one out of his trash or metal scrap for me...
Sorry, long gone years ago. The only place that I know sold some sprockets with the guard was Parts Unlimited but just looked and don't see any.
I've just used a drift punch to knock the old bearings out and either the old bearing or a piece of pipe or other something lying around in the garage to drive the new ones in. I suppose a proper bearing and seal driver would be better though, but I'm one that tries to avoid buying a tool that I'd only use once every few years (if that).
If it's good enough for you, it's good enough for me. Thanks, Tom.
I can relate to that..And don't forget the inner spacer that often gets lost if you drive the old bearings out over a 25 gallon drum/trash can.
I have a collection of different sized PVC fittings, reducers, and pipe from the plumbing aisle at Home Depot.I used a foot or less of plastic pipe to drive a bearing in. A building supply place that cuts pipe might have a scrap around.
Pullers are for situations where you can't get a drift in from the other side.
And someone here posted the idea of using a large concrete anchor tightened into the old bearing center to give something to drive against for those bearings where you couldn't get to the edge of the outer race. Driving from the inner race wouldn't matter since you'd be tossing them anyway.
The concrete anchor works quite well.And someone here posted the idea of using a large concrete anchor tightened into the old bearing center to give something to drive against for those bearings where you couldn't get to the edge of the outer race. Driving from the inner race wouldn't matter since you'd be tossing them anyway.
Looking good.
Some hints on painting. The current finish you have is called "orange peel" due to the similarities. Home paint jobs always get that to some degree. The problem is that each successive coat increases it unless it's sanded out in between coats.
Wet, lots and lots of water, and #400 paper makes fairly quick work of it. It becomes real obvious when to stop because there's no little shiny spots left on the paint. Wipe it down with Isopropyl alcohol right before doing the next coat.
It's best to shoot the lightest color first so you don't have to apply a thicker than needed layer. Dark hides light but light lets dark bleed thru reqiring more coats to hide the dark.
Spray Maxx 2K takes months to fully harden. It's workable in the mean time to a degree. I won't color sand it until @6 months after I've used it.
Oh, I understand the fear and have gone thru the layers by mistake also. Might use 600 or 800 but it takes way longer and gives more control.Thanks for the pointers. I didn't really think about doing the white first - that would have been smarter. I do try to wet sand between coats, but I'm always afraid of burning through the last layer of paint and often stop short. Obviously still learning, but it's fun and sometimes satisfying.
The drums look a bit pitted but IMO they should be okay...
If I were to go back over the drums with a coarser grit, say 80, and then proceed to 150 and steel wool, would that be okay? I didn't want to use anything too aggressive, but I think that's what I need to remove the pitting that remains. Hopefully I won't need to go first-over on the drum shoes with all of this sanding and polishing. =)
If your new sprocket is a JTR model, then it might not work. Check the side not shown in the photograph and see if there is a recessed channel for the "tab" on each bolt to fit into. I ordered a JTR sprocket for my 360 and it was flat on both sides, which meant that the bolt couldn't be tightened securely. Parts Unlimited is one supplier that carries the correct sprocket (with recessed channel).
A question about rear shocks: How do the rear shocks between the SL/CL/CB 350s compare? Are the SL/CL shocks longer? Are they interchangeable?
I'm contemplating a slightly taller stance for my project and was thinking of looking for shocks with an extra inch or so relative to the stock CB350 shocks.
Longer rear shocks will change the balance of the bike with the bias on the front. A little is fine, 1" may be too muchA question about rear shocks: How do the rear shocks between the SL/CL/CB 350s compare? Are the SL/CL shocks longer? Are they interchangeable?
I'm contemplating a slightly taller stance for my project and was thinking of looking for shocks with an extra inch or so relative to the stock CB350 shocks.
Longer rear shocks will change the balance of the bike with the bias on the front. A little is fine, 1" may be too much
That would work. When I put the CB900F front end on the road bike I raised the rear just over an inch to compensate. But when you do that you also have to increase the chain slack because you're lower in the swing arm arc.I had planned to ask him how he intended to compensate for it in the front end of the bike, maybe the 360 front forks are a bit longer
That would work. When I put the CB900F front end on the road bike I raised the rear just over an inch to compensate. But when you do that you also have to increase the chain slack because you're lower in the swing arm arc.
Longer rear shocks will change the balance of the bike with the bias on the front. A little is fine, 1" may be too much
I had planned to ask him how he intended to compensate for it in the front end of the bike, maybe the 360 front forks are a bit longer
Yep, I went through the opposite when I lowered the red 450 though the swingarm is still just below parallel and it does tighten up when it approaches parallel. I just don't know for sure if his 360 front end is any longer than the original 350 forks although he could gain a half inch by just putting a 19" front wheel on it
A question about rear shocks: How do the rear shocks between the SL/CL/CB 350s compare? Are the SL/CL shocks longer? Are they interchangeable?
I'm contemplating a slightly taller stance for my project and was thinking of looking for shocks with an extra inch or so relative to the stock CB350 shocks.
I just checked my 73 CL, they are 12 5/8 320mm same as the 73 CB here.
You'll want to lift the transmission shafts out so you can see the actual condition of the shift forks while the lower case is off, and replace all the bottom end seals so you don't have to go back in there again. And during reassembly you'll want to put some Hondabond around the perimeter of the clutch rod seal to help keep it from popping out causing massive oil loss and devastating damage in the event it happens on the road. Or fab up a plate to bolt against the seal like I did on my 450 to keep it from popping out.
Actually, one of my better HF 90amp welder jobs was a muffler bracket on a Dream. I think I used the higher amperage setting and kept the wire speed a bit slower (not sure about that). Surprised it didn't mess up the chrome very much, just used the wire wheel on it, it's barely noticable. Use a magnet to align the pieces until you get it tacked.
I'm certainly willing to give it a go, so thank you for the encouragement. The more I try to weld, the closer I will get to being someone who can weld. Not there yet.
Maybe I'll even try to weld on nuts where the threaded tabs for the heat shield were damaged.
If you have other older pipes you won't be using, practice on them for a few rounds to get more experience since the thickness will be similar.
That pic of the tube with the bracket missing, I would try to weld the bracket to those two existing welds, thick to thick, with as little gaps between the two as possible.
I would try to remove the bit of bolt from that T nut that is hanging by one edge. clean and file so it sits flat again and tack around it's edges. Similar thicknesses like that are easier. Clamp tight in place with a Vice-grips, C-clamp to start. Weld any other cracks you find.
The one with the square chunk missing, I would try to stick a piece of thick washer or flat stock under it then tack in the hole gradually fill it in.
Hope you can find a good pic of the missing bracket for re-creating it. I haven't looked at my CL exhaust hanging in a corner in a while, maybe it still has that and I could take a pic.
I just checked eBay and grabbed two screenshots of the missing bracket. It's more or less identical to the other two. I will likely tack on a tab with a slot hole for a bolt + nut, otherwise I'd have to figure out exactly where the threaded hole needs to be.
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