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Tricks for stubborn knock pins?

2BrokeBikes

2BrokeBikes

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Total Posts
165
Total likes
26
Location
Portland, Oregon, USA
Anyone here have any tricks up their sleeves for removing stubborn knock pins without destroying them? I've got a couple that I've soaked in PB Blaster that just don't want to let go.
 
A little heat (I like a butane mini torch for small things) is an obvious choice of persuasion. Additionally, find a drill bit sized to just fit into the knock pin to help wiggle and loosen. This doesn’t always work but you get a few of them this way. Helps to wear gloves so the drill bit doesn’t cut your fingers. I found that out the hard way.
 
I tried to edit my above post but cannot… Moderators?

Anyway, the clarification is to use the blunt end of the drill bit in the knock pin. Hence you are holding the flutes of the bit in your gloved hand.
 
I've had luck with a heat gun for 2 min and pb blaster

That drill bit sounds like a good addition to the heat
 
Brilliant! I couldn't figure out how to get any purchase on them without marring them up with something like pliers or vise-grips, or how I might grab them after applying heat. I'll try out a bit tomorrow. Thanks for the tips!
 
Pretty much anything that's a good fit inside the dowels to prevent them being crushed will work.
One of the 'neatest' but nowhere near the quickest I've seen was to use collet in a milling machine.
Clamp it onto dowel, raise quill and dowel slid right out.
Snap-On make a stud removal tool which is similar to a collet block, but, unless your a mechanic doing engine rebuilds regularly it's too expensive for a 'one off'
I bought one, Snap-On CG500, (metric collets a lot extra) around 1980 as I was doing a lot of engine stuff, even changing crankcases under warranty. I know it hasn't been used for about 15 years but I still have it in toolbox.
 
crazypj said:
Pretty much anything that's a good fit inside the dowels to prevent them being crushed will work.
One of the 'neatest' but nowhere near the quickest I've seen was to use collet in a milling machine.
Clamp it onto dowel, raise quill and dowel slid right out.
Snap-On make a stud removal tool which is similar to a collet block, but, unless your a mechanic doing engine rebuilds regularly it's too expensive for a 'one off'
I bought one, Snap-On CG500, (metric collets a lot extra) around 1980 as I was doing a lot of engine stuff, even changing crankcases under warranty. I know it hasn't been used for about 15 years but I still have it in toolbox.
Click to expand...
Here's the Snap-On page for those with funds for cool tools https://shop.snapon.com/categories/629169
 
Crikey, I though they were expensive when I bought the kit (over $100.00 for main body and 3x inch thread collets) but now it looks like they only sell the parts individually.with the collets more than double what I paid (although I guess 35~40 years inflation will push price up significantly)
 
crazypj said:
Crikey, I though they were expensive when I bought the kit (over $100.00 for main body and 3x inch thread collets) but now it looks like they only sell the parts individually.with the collets more than double what I paid (although I guess 35~40 years inflation will push price up significantly)
Click to expand...
They were expensive when you bought the kit and even more so now. Not in my budget, I'll stick to a dowel inserted and work at twisting them loose. I can file and sand any damage away for far cheaper.
 
I have a set of soft jaw pliers that do well enough on 90% of them without crushing them.

I’d think that removing them with grease (pack into the ID, use a punch or piece of metal turned down close to the ID) and then tap until it works it’s way out should do well also

If you really wind up in a bind let me know, I think I have a few extra.


-Ed
1972 CL350
1985 VF700F
 
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