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Aftermarket gauges

teebo

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2021
Total Posts
1,786
Total likes
154
Location
Oklahoma City
I prefer the look of the stock gauges. But on my second set, and I just can't seem to get rid of the bounce (the first tach was just wrong). The speedo is tolerable. The tach is meh until approx 5k then it fluctuates widely. All seems to be in order and clean.

Suggestions for vintage-ish gauges? I've seen simple 2.5" analog. I'd likely be fine with those. I haven't seen any analog gauges with a neutral indicator. I can live without blinker indicator since I can see the front signals clearly.

Real motorcycle riders don't need a stinking indicator?
 
I prefer the look of the stock gauges. But on my second set, and I just can't seem to get rid of the bounce (the first tach was just wrong). The speedo is tolerable. The tach is meh until approx 5k then it fluctuates widely. All seems to be in order and clean.

Suggestions for vintage-ish gauges? I've seen simple 2.5" analog. I'd likely be fine with those. I haven't seen any analog gauges with a neutral indicator. I can live without blinker indicator since I can see the front signals clearly.



Thinking I might grab one of these to have in the shop for the '60's bikes w/o tach and to co-witness the other bikes that have mech tachs.

Amazon.com: Motorcycle Tachometer Speedometer Odometer Universal 13000RPM Rev Counter for ATV Honda Yamaha Suzuki Harley Kawasaki Cruisers : Automotive
 
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I did get those gauges I posted earlier. Thought I'd post some pics so others could decide for themselves if they are considering aftermarket. I have mixed feelings about it.

Pros:
1) They do work. It's super nice to have stable gauges. The tach appears to read a little high. I can live with that.
2) I think the chrome version works for me. They have black, but I wasn't sure about that, and decided I could always paint the chrome if I wanted black.

Cons:
1) I personally think they are a little small. I would prefer something around 3". These are 2.5".
2) Due to the size, it really highlights that I need to route my harnesses through the handlebar. But that is also aftermarket. I see a drill press in my future.
3) This is a small thing, but the backlight illuminates the indicator lights. When I first connected it, I thought it was wrongly lighting everything. Turns out the "off" illuminated state is close to the "on" state. Once you see the difference, it's noticeable. But I have no idea why they made them so close.

Install:
1) I had to modify the supplied "A" shaped bracket by grinding down the peak past the hole and drilling a new hole. The supplied bracket was too far out. I also used some rubber washers to lift the gauges slightly and provide some shock.
2) The tach wire come with male bullet connectors. The speedo is just bare wires. So spare bullet connectors are needed (the 3.5mm size, and at least one female). Each speedo indicator wire pair includes a negative lead. Except for the neutral indicator, they all go to green. You'll need a 2-into-1 bullet connect to fashion an additional port because otherwise you'll run out of ground ports. I didn't connect the oil indicator (of course), or the high-beam indicator (I really don't need two indicators for that).

IMG_20220516_191426_Bokeh.jpg

IMG_20220516_191517_Bokeh.jpg

IMG_20220516_191606_Bokeh.jpg
 
Also... You need the diode blinker harness to get both blinkers triggering the indicator. You can get them from various places. I ordered one from CMC. Though someone had posted a shop that had LED bulbs (and other electrical stuff) and they had one too. Without it, only one blinker can be connected. So it's half right. Or half wrong. Depending on your outlook on life.
 
They look nice and I'm glad you're reasonably satisfied with them, but all that you mentioned are the reason I've never wanted to go with aftermarket gauges. Mine are a little janky once they warm up and their readings are likely suspect even when they aren't wavering, but no matter what you do there's always a compromise of sorts unless you spend copious dollars getting the originals reworked to like-new operation.
 
They look nice and I'm glad you're reasonably satisfied with them, but all that you mentioned are the reason I've never wanted to go with aftermarket gauges. Mine are a little janky once they warm up and their readings are likely suspect even when they aren't wavering, but no matter what you do there's always a compromise of sorts unless you spend copious dollars getting the originals reworked to like-new operation.

Exactly. I had found some nice used ones on ebay. They look great. But I went through the rebuild, including the damper refill, and tach was better but still bouncy.

I'll keep the originals because I never know what I'm going to learn tomorrow. Plus... Two decent looking originals aren't exactly cheap.

I did run across a couple places online that refurbish/fix vintage gauges. I'm sure that isn't cheap either.
 
I like the minimal visual there. They look good.

Parts bike seller gave me yet another bench drill press for free today. It's yours, if you want and ship it.

Another idea: Use oil light for left and the yellow for right turn indicators
 
I like the minimal visual there. They look good.

Parts bike seller gave me yet another bench drill press for free today. It's yours, if you want and ship it.

Another idea: Use oil light for left and the yellow for right turn indicators

It would have paid for me to check the forum earlier. Ordered a drill press in the meantime. And a bench belt sander.

I thought about using the oil indicator for the one of the turn signals. The diode harness was only $7 plus shipping.

I've been trying to think of something clever to do with it. Like a circuit to indicate when the brake light is out. Or voltage too low.
 
It would have paid for me to check the forum earlier. Ordered a drill press in the meantime. And a bench belt sander.

I thought about using the oil indicator for the one of the turn signals. The diode harness was only $7 plus shipping.

I've been trying to think of something clever to do with it. Like a circuit to indicate when the brake light is out. Or voltage too low.


How bout flashing with a voice that says, " Auto destruct sequence activated" (in case of theft)
 
I'm one of the in-crowd now. Harnesses routed through handlebars.

Not a small effort actually.

Totally worth it. And totally justifies a drill press and cobalt bits.

Next level cool would be grey control cables.
 

Those are what I wanted. But they are out of stock on multiple. I emailed them and they said they doubted they'd get more.

I'm hesitant to buy from multiple sources. Worry is the colors won't be the same.
 
The guages look nice. I thought about doing that too. I like the smaller ones. I decided to use the original ones since I had a couple sets of NOS ones. I also routed the wires inside the handlebars and used grey control cables.
 
Those are what I wanted. But they are out of stock on multiple. I emailed them and they said they doubted they'd get more.

I'm hesitant to buy from multiple sources. Worry is the colors won't be the same.

I didn't get all of my gray cables from the same source, the speedo cable on the 450 is unique and it came from a separate source as well as maybe my clutch cable, but the color is the same or so close you can't tell.
 
I didn't get all of my gray cables from the same source, the speedo cable on the 450 is unique and it came from a separate source as well as maybe my clutch cable, but the color is the same or so close you can't tell.

Thanks. I'm probably over-thinking it.
 
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