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Brake shoe re-lining?

ballbearian

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2021
Total Posts
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Location
Hagerstown MD USA
Does anyone know if there are places to get this done? Shoes for 305 CA77 Dreams are not available AFAIK. The linings are loose and pretty worn on these I doubt that JBweld would be an option here, or has anyone re-glued the lining material to the shoes?

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Yes,that's the one.
The man has a special way to ARC the shoes to match the inside dia. shape of the drum. I spoke with him in the past and he told me to send my wheel in to him for him to do that process.
 
If those are 8” in size a fellow member of CVMG up here has a set of NOS Honda parts for the top and bottom shoes in your picture. He sells on Kijiji and will ship. If your interested I can reach out to him. Do you have the Honda part number to verify the correct part since they are in original Honda packaging?
I just looked at them recently for my CL77, yet they were too small, as I have 10” drums on my machine.
 
I have heard 8" and 10" talked about regarding the CL/CB77 brakes. These shoes here are for a CA77 Dream and the actual drum diameter is close to 6 7/8". The above link to Industrialbrakeclutch shows they are located in New Jersey. I will try to secure a quote to reline these to satisfy my curiosity and to see if it is reasonable cost wise. Currently I do have useable shoes on the bike but am looking to the future to have spares. Thanks for the offer, Flyin900, I may yet need another option.
 
I have had it done at a business that relines large truck clutches and brake shoes. Linings will not be same thickness as original lining and you will have to get thicker lining and have shaved and arched. Machinist can do it easily on a lathe.
 
I have heard 8" and 10" talked about regarding the CL/CB77 brakes. These shoes here are for a CA77 Dream and the actual drum diameter is close to 6 7/8". The above link to Industrialbrakeclutch shows they are located in New Jersey. I will try to secure a quote to reline these to satisfy my curiosity and to see if it is reasonable cost wise. Currently I do have useable shoes on the bike but am looking to the future to have spares. Thanks for the offer, Flyin900, I may yet need another option.

Sound good. I was just there on Friday as noted and they were a smaller design and he too was not sure what models they actually fit. They were too small for my needs. They did have Honda packaging with a part # , although I didn't take note of that since they wouldn't fit my bike.
 
Reading info from Vintage Brake's web site. Their procedure involves arching on the original back plate so that everything is true and square. I'm hoping I can send just the shoes (a spare set) so I don't have the bike laid up.
 
Reading info from Vintage Brake's web site. Their procedure involves arching on the original back plate so that everything is true and square. I'm hoping I can send just the shoes (a spare set) so I don't have the bike laid up.

He needs the full wheel to properly arc the shoes to match the inner section of your drum.
 
Or perhaps just the hub if you plan to lace up new spokes and wheel anyway?


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I asked the man that when I spoke with him by phone in 2015' and he told me it requires the wheel to be fully built with it trued and the spokes under the proper tension;he said the final spoke tension somehow affects the shape of the drum..
 
I asked the man that when I spoke with him by phone in 2015' and he told me it requires the wheel to be fully built with it trued and the spokes under the proper tension;he said the final spoke tension somehow affects the shape of the drum..

I got a call back from Mike at VintageBrake. He is back in his shop but at a slower pace due to some medical recovery. We talked at length about his services and procedures. He would be willing to reline my spare shoes and let me handle the lathe turning to fit my drums if necessary. Otherwise, I would have to send my backing plates as he does not have any for the Dreams on hand. He has a dozen or so plates for the high demand models in house. These include the 450's and 350's. His expertise and execution is, I'm sure, the best there is and if one desires braking performance for a competition level, then sending the whole tamale (wheels, plates..) is the way to go. He did say that his material could be 3/16 or 1/4" so having them done in 3/16 is about 4.7mm and very close to OEM spec, that and used drums , one can assume they may well fit as recieved.

As these are my spares, I'm not sure yet and am not in a hurry. Shipping costs and issues add to the concerns. If re-pop shoes appear that would be my choice due to cost and, let's face it, no Dream is ever going to pull a nose wheelie even with Mike's super stop juju.

Added Tip Mike wanted me to share (I should post in Tips and Tricks): An acute angle must be maintained in the cable/rod to actuating lever! Single most common error in set up that causes poor performance.
 
Ballbearian,can you explain a bit more about the acute angle between cable and brake arm?

I'll try: The three points which form the angle are 1. the splined pivot shaft that the arm attaches to 2. the bushing with the sideways hole that the pedal rod or brake cable threaded end passes through 3. the housing stop on the front brake plate or pedal rod which is straight anyway. So, two lines drawn from cable bushing to splined pivot and from cable bushing to (or along ) the pedal rod. Those two lines form the angle that should be less than 90 degrees (acute).

I need to learn the art of drawing on photos. A greater than 90 degree angle means you are sacrificing a lot of leverage and braking power.

To change angle re-index the arm on the splined brake shoe cam shaft.
 
I'll try: The three points which form the angle are 1. the splined pivot shaft that the arm attaches to 2. the bushing with the sideways hole that the pedal rod or brake cable threaded end passes through 3. the housing stop on the front brake plate or pedal rod which is straight anyway. So, two lines drawn from cable bushing to splined pivot and from cable bushing to (or along ) the pedal rod. Those two lines form the angle that should be less than 90 degrees (acute).

I need to learn the art of drawing on photos. A greater than 90 degree angle means you are sacrificing a lot of leverage and braking power.


Good Point ;) I like to re-align my lever which attaches to the splined shaft as my brake pads wear:I believe that also improves the power of the drum brake as you describe.
 
I'll try: The three points which form the angle are 1. the splined pivot shaft that the arm attaches to 2. the bushing with the sideways hole that the pedal rod or brake cable threaded end passes through 3. the housing stop on the front brake plate or pedal rod which is straight anyway. So, two lines drawn from cable bushing to splined pivot and from cable bushing to (or along ) the pedal rod. Those two lines form the angle that should be less than 90 degrees (acute).

I need to learn the art of drawing on photos. A greater than 90 degree angle means you are sacrificing a lot of leverage and braking power.

To change angle re-index the arm on the splined brake shoe cam shaft.

But, the risk of moving the arm back on the splines is turning the cam that opens the shoes further than it is intended to turn, to the point of the shoes leaving the flats on the cam (when the shoes are worn out). I had that happen on an old junk bike with a CT200 engine I had when I was a kid, and the result was an instantly-locked wheel and broken backing plate. I knew the shoes were worn but the wheel wasn't a Honda part and... I was 15. Learning experience.
 
But, the risk of moving the arm back on the splines is turning the cam that opens the shoes further than it is intended to turn, to the point of the shoes leaving the flats on the cam (when the shoes are worn out). I had that happen on an old junk bike with a CT200 engine I had when I was a kid, and the result was an instantly-locked wheel and broken backing plate. I knew the shoes were worn but the wheel wasn't a Honda part and... I was 15. Learning experience.

I think those little bike shafts are only like 10mm so not much flat to start with, add worn out stuff and teen-age brilliance, anything is possible.
 
I just sent a request for quote to Industrial Brake and Clutch. They are now located in Seminole FL (from NJ in 2020).

I have an aftermarket rear set for re-lining, soaking in vinegar right now for the CA77 Dreams.

Save your cores. I'll gladly take them off your hands and pay shipping in the small flat rate USPS box. Maybe get a quantity discount.
 
I just sent a request for quote to Industrial Brake and Clutch. They are now located in Seminole FL (from NJ in 2020).

I have an aftermarket rear set for re-lining, soaking in vinegar right now for the CA77 Dreams.

Save your cores. I'll gladly take them off your hands and pay shipping in the small flat rate USPS box. Maybe get a quantity discount.
I'm curious about this too. Seminole is in Pinellas County, not too far from the eighth mile drag strip I go to.
 
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