Impact Driver; with Brass Hammer or ??

[GS Scott]

I realize Common-Motor isn't the "end all be all" but I notice they break free case covers with a brass hammer and impact driver. They seem to have great success (or at least that's all the video clips they post).

I've never had a brass hammer, and I've never needed to break open case covers until now with these crazy old twins! I have what I think is a "relatively decent" Craftsman impact driver but I'm wondering if I really need a brass hammer, or will a steel hammer work just fine?

I'm sure plenty of you have experience breaking old OEM screws loose that keep the case / stator / clutch covers on, so what's the deal - do I really need a brass hammer?

Thanks in advance, and I hope you see this under "Product Reviews" - it makes sense to me to put this question & answer about brass hammers here.

[MrPepper]

I don't own a brass hammer, but the rubber mallet from the dollar store sees action now and then

[12ozPBR]

Of course you absolutely HAVE to have the brass hammer. In fact you have to buy it from CMC. You can find the details in the section of each of their product listings called “Why you need this”. There is also most likely a slick video on how to use it incorrectly.

Seriously, all you need is a rubber mallet. I have a cheap one that has several different rubber tips that would screw on depending on the task. These are the kind of expendable tools that I do buy from time to time at Harbor Freight.

[ancientdad]

Of course you absolutely HAVE to have the brass hammer. In fact you have to buy it from CMC. You can find the details in the section of each of their product listings called “Why you need this”. There is also most likely a slick video on how to use it incorrectly.

LMAO...

and as I always add to discussions like this, a t-handle with JIS bits gives great leverage for both getting stubborn screws out that don't need an impact driver, but it also works great for tightening them too, gives you plenty of torque.

[jensen]

Amen !

[Alan F.]

I use steel hammers with my impact.

[LongDistanceRider]

I've always used a steel hammer on my impact drivers. The brass hammers are reserved for hitting things where I want little to no damage. Rubber hammer is used for things I absolutely want zero damage.
I have a 10 oz. ball peen, 3lb. short handle sledge and a 2 oz. ball peen in steel
Brass is down to a 1 and 4 oz. ball peens and 3 lb. sledge. I used to work with knock off wheels.
2 rubber mallets of unknown weight.

[ballbearian]

Of course you absolutely HAVE to have the brass hammer. In fact you have to buy it from CMC. You can find the details in the section of each of their product listings called “Why you need this”. There is also most likely a slick video on how to use it incorrectly.

Correct party doctrine from the collective.

I prefer a shot filled plastic dead blow hammer. Great for deep tissue injuries, if you miss

[mike in idaho]

I tend to use my brass hammer over my ball peen, it has a little more heft to it, just feels better balanced somehow.

[12ozPBR]

Ha! I totally misunderstood the original post when I replied earlier. I actually have never had an impact driver like most of you are referring to. I have JIS bits that I can fit into my cordless electric impact as well as what I use most of the time, the Vessel 980 series “Impacta” screwdriver. I absolutely love that thing! I beat the hell out of it with a ball peen hammer and it is quite remarkable at removing even the most stubborn screws.
As for the rubber mallet, that is what I use to tap on the sides of stubborn covers that want to stick after 30-40 years of being installed.

[GS Scott]

I knew I could count on you guys! Nothing like 5 different opinions...
I have a steel hammer, a ball peen hammer and a rubber mallet, and I actually ordered that Vessel Impacta Screwdriver a few days ago. The dead blow hammer was $42 at the local True Value today - a bit rich for an old cheapskate like me.

A quick check of HF has a 2lb brass hammer for $29, and a 2lb dead blow for $9... maybe I'll get both and then I'll be able to try all of your suggestions!
I can see it's going to be an experience generating exercise, I just hope I don't break too many goobered up screws...
Next I'll be asking about easy-outs...

[1969 CL350]

I’ve never used anything on a hand impact driver but a steel hammer, and my impact driver is 40+ years old. I can see no use for a brass hammer in this situation, unless they’re worried about damaging the impact driver.

[ausman1000]

I’ve never used anything on a hand impact driver but a steel hammer, and my impact driver is 40+ years old. I can see no use for a brass hammer in this situation, unless they’re worried about damaging the impact driver.

Same here, a steel hammer and a Husky 47200 has served me well for many years. I would imagine anything else would delay or soften the instant inertia required for an effective transmission of energy.

impact.jpg

[Alan F.]

Honestly it never occurred to me to use anything but a steel hammer, impact being key and all.

[Hondaholic]

. . . I would imagine anything else would delay or soften the instant inertia required for an effective transmission of energy.

Bang on! Good to see 'scientific' reasoning has been applied here, and echoes my thoughts exactly.

But I'm going to go a step further. Next time I'm smashing open coconuts, I'm going to experiment with both brass and steel hammers. That's what 'm talkin' about!!

[Richard Pitman]

This is interesting. I've got an impact driver, but I've never considered using a steel hammer on it, seems far too brutal. Years ago, when I was replacing our original wooden windows with UVPC double glazed items, I bought a hammer / mallet that had a shot loaded head, with one plastic face and one rubber face. Originally bought for banging the window beads into place, but it is now constantly used for hitting things on the bike, including the impact driver. Although I've now discovered how effective my DeWalt cordless impact driver is, I mainly use that. Or simply use my JIS screwdrivers, tap those with the plastic hammer to seat them nicely in the screw head.

( I do have several lump hammers of varying weights, and a nice sledge hammer, but those are reserved for use with cold chisels and breaking concrete )

[if/else]

I still have my impact driver from 1970 and I have always used a steel hammer with it. Eyewear protection should be used at all times when banging metal on metal like impacts or chisels. Even though I went to trade school and saw the "safety films" I once forgot to use eye protection and got a "Foreign object" in my eye. An eye surgeon used a "Sharp stick" to remove it. Not fun. I would strongly advise the use of eye protection no matter what you use to hit stuff with.

[TMSHORT]

I second the T-handle with JIS bits - very handy and way better leverage.

I have this one and have been very happy with it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V571J15/

[Richard Pitman]

Over here in the UK

Laser 7520 T Handle JIS Screwdriver Kit - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

[honda_matt]

A brass hammer just looks and feels so "bespoke", in a hipster kind of way.

[mike in idaho]

Brass/steel works better when using an impact driver, a dead-blow hammer absorbs part of the impact that needs to jar the screw loose. Hit it with a soft hammer and it may peel the slots out before the screw moves.

[old timer]

I use the t handle, brass hammer and impact driver., 3 pound steel hammer and impact driver then 1/4 inch drill bits in that order. I have broken JIS bits that still didnt loosen the screw, .On one CB 160 I had to drill them all out. Some POs just make a mess out of them.

Bill H

[ballbearian]

Brass/steel works better when using an impact driver, a dead-blow hammer absorbs part of the impact that needs to jar the screw loose. Hit it with a soft hammer and it may peel the slots out before the screw moves.

Yep, heavy steel for impact. Dead blow works for cases and aluminum.

[ballbearian]

I like to peen spreading crosses and slots because it also work hardens them so you might succeed without drilling out.

[GS Scott]

Thank you - all of you - for providing your feedback and recommendations. I have a few bikes to go through from the ground up, and I've really got very little experience (and tools) to do the jobs correctly, but I'm on my way. JIS screw drivers arrived today, I will likely go to HF and grab the brass hammer this week, and begin the opening and inspections this weekend. Thanks again, I really appreciate all the input!

[ausman1000]

I like to peen spreading crosses and slots because it also work hardens them so you might succeed without drilling out.

That's an interesting approach/technique. I for one will keep that in mind. Thanks

[KenGS]

I vote light tap with 36oz mini-sledge -- the key here is "impact" Never misses .

[ballbearian]

That's an interesting approach/technique. I for one will keep that in mind. Thanks

After peening I tap the bit into the screw head. It's nice and tight, no slop. Then the impact. I use my fingertip, if it is jagged, it's starting to stretch out.

[Richard Pitman]

Lesson learnt regarding steel hammer and impact wrench. I probably worry too much, visions of breaking things by belting them too hard.

[KenGS]

Nothing wrong with trying to protect your tools . For many other things like protecting a surface the brass hammer may be the tool of choice . Certainly, a heavy brass hammer would work just fine with your impact driver -- but no use "breaking the bank" if you don't need to . Of course if you have just re-finished the floors with lacquer, the non-sparking brass hammer would be the tool of choice .... and of course, steel on steel does always risk metal fragment into eye -- safety glasses recommended !

[TMSHORT]

I like to peen spreading crosses and slots because it also work hardens them so you might succeed without drilling out.

I have no idea what this means - can you explain further?

Always looking for new tricks. I had to drill a ton of stuff out of the Z50 project I've been working on.

[ancientdad]

I have no idea what this means - can you explain further?

Always looking for new tricks. I had to drill a ton of stuff out of the Z50 project I've been working on.

He means tapping the head of a boogered up screw to reshape the gnarled-up JIS slots and add some impact to the threads at the same time to help loosen the potential corrosion.

[RockReef]

I just hope I don't break too many goobered up screws...
Next I'll be asking about easy-outs...

Never bothered with an EZout for this, and I’ve had to deal with some really destroyed screw heads. I either weld on a nut or - if there’s enough material left - dremel a slot for a big ass flat head screw driver


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