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Help removing kickstarter joint from spindle

teepyteeps

New Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2022
Total Posts
4
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Location
Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA
Hi there, I'm tearing down my 500T and am hung up on the kickstarter lever joint, I can't seem to get it off the spindle.
I found someone with the same issue over on another forum who managed to get it off by using heat and levering a flathead screwdriver in the pinch of the joint to widen it, but I've tried that to no avail so far.

Can't remove kickstarter from shaft

I'm just wondering if anyone has any experience with these being stuck and could offer some advice, here's some pictures to show as far as it will come off now. Thanks

IMG_2242.jpgIMG_2244.jpgIMG_2247.jpgIMG_2251.jpg
 
looks like the splines on the end of the shaft are a bit chewed up. You might try pushing the kickstart back on and wriggle a bit to see if it aligns better on the end of shaft splines
 
It's pretty rare to see that on the bigger twins with electric start, the kickstart lever usually doesn't get used nearly as much and not often vigorously. I've seen the separated portions of splines get twisted on some shafts and that can complicate removal, but yours doesn't appear to be that way so it's probably a combination of wear and corrosion. Using some type of wedge in the gap to spread it open a bit further is probably the best way to approach it since there isn't enough room to use any type of puller and you don't want to damage the cover. Worse comes to worst, you could use a cutting wheel carefully on the side opposite the pinch gap to allow it to spread open more
 
You might try your local autozone, oreillys and see if they have a two jaw bearing/pulley puller in their free rental program - the style with two hooks that work against the center shaft.
Lee
 

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You might try your local autozone, oreillys and see if they have a two jaw bearing/pulley puller in their free rental program - the style with two hooks that work against the center shaft.
Lee

Yeah, top and bottom of the joint using something like that should work
 
If it is purely mechanical interference, you really have no choice but to force it. In the off chance it is a combination of interference and corrosion, I would add some PB Blaster and heat. If you end up breaking it, I have a spare I can sent you.
Lee
 
I can't imagine it breaking, those bottom-pivot kickstart levers are pretty tough, but the force of removal might cause some problems with the splines so liberal penetrant is a good idea for sure
 
I just fought the lever off of the disaster SL350. Lots of penetrating oil, heat and ultimately widening the pinch joint by driving a screwdriver into the pinch. 2 hours later it finally wiggled enough to work off using a pry bar to push it out as I wiggled.
 
Hey everyone, I finally had the time to get back after this roadblock today and decided to go the jaw puller route: long story short it worked like a charm!

IMG_2377.jpg

You might try your local autozone, oreillys and see if they have a two jaw bearing/pulley puller in their free rental program - the style with two hooks that work against the center shaft.
Lee

I can't recommend this enough, I had no idea these rental programs existed so thanks so much for the heads up. The only pullers they had were 2/3 variable models which ended up being lucky for me since it didn't work until I employed all three jaws, but once I did it came off in about 10 seconds with very little force, which is hilarious compared to how hard it was before!

IMG_2379.jpg

Couldn't've done it without you guy's advice so thanks again, now that nothing's in my way I think it's time for a project thread.
 
Yep, pullers are great on a lot of the spline fittings including drum brake levers.

This is what I use

puller.jpg
 
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