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Thread: Tip for cleaning up rust.

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    Tip for cleaning up rust.

    I am sure a lot of us have a small ultrasonic for carbs etc, but for those unaware - evaporust is A LOT more effective if you use it in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. I use small plastic containers inside the tank so the evaporust lasts longer, but from what I have seen, it never seems to wear out. I strain it through a coffee filter to remove the grit and keep reusing. Below is a picture of the results after 20 minutes in a sonic bath of evaporust at around 155°F. I should add this was with no mechanical cleaning or wire brushes.
    Lee
    Spark Plugs.jpg
    Last edited by Dutchess; 12.23.21 at 1:37 PM. Reason: Attempted to rotate picture, unsuccessfully.

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    Senior Member Alan F.'s Avatar
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    Yes and it won't harm the plating like many acids will.
    Unfortunately you still need to treat the newly rust free areas or they will begin to rust again.

    A dried on coating of Evaporust will protect from rust, but it's water soluble, so once the part is off the shelf something else will be needed.
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    Senior Member RockReef's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan F. View Post
    Yes and it won't harm the plating like many acids will.
    Unfortunately you still need to treat the newly rust free areas or they will begin to rust again.

    A dried on coating of Evaporust will protect from rust, but it's water soluble, so once the part is off the shelf something else will be needed.
    I’ve heard this, too. And that you need to be fast! While those results above are probably the best I’ve seen yet, what’s the best way to prevent flash rusting after?


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    Senior Member Ribrickulous's Avatar
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    I’d think the same way to prevent rust on any other bare metal - light machine oil.

    I use marvel mystery oil in any tank that I de-rust, just because supposedly it’s a fuel additive too, but I’d think that spindle oil or even something like 3-in-1 would be just fine.

    WD40 could work if it’s short term. It forms a gunk if left around too long. For something like a spark plug I’d use a *light* coating of anti-seize. Any oil on the threads will burn off, or at least try to, in the heat of the head.


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    The best way to prevent is to collect up all those special bolts and pieces, maybe put temporary ones in their place if needed and take them to a local plating shop and have them rezinced. There is usually a minimum lot charge, but the plater here charges me $80 for as many things as I can fit in the basket. This works for engine mounting bolts, axles or whatever. If it is less than 100 pieces they usually hang them on wires, more than 100 basket them. Of course this won’t work for some of the specially bolts like the steering stem nut and washer, axle adjusters, shock mounting bolts and handlebar clamp bolts as these things are chromed, but most towns have shops that do chrome, nickel or silver for car restorations and if you aren’t in hurry to get them back will add them in with larger parts for a very modest fee.
    Lee

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