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Black Friday - a red 1965 CB160

That's a good plan thank you. Ive removed this type of grease nipple before, they're just pressed in place lightly. I wonder how deep those center bores and outlets go? Do they only go to the collars or do they also grease the frame tube too?

As for the impact, I'm just using what I've got. It'll give eventually.

Well, that's a deep subject (old joke). Is there a nipple on both ends? The collars need grease not a tube. Use your brass drift for shock waves and a little heat.
 
There are grease nipples on both ends of the pivot bolt. I guess regular maintenance would keep the frame tube from rusting solid to the pivot bolt, eh?
 
I just took some hardware and the rear brake stay out of the murky Evaporust, after less than 24 hours they're perfect, this stuff is still working fine on small parts. I carefully gave them all a coat of CorrosionX and set them on a paper towel like the other stuff earlier.
I repositioned the battery box which is coming along wonderfully, and repositioned the center stand too. It's not coming along very well, I'll wire brush it again tomorrow and put it back in.
And I stripped down the rear brake carrier and put the arm, spring, cam and shoe springs in for an overnight soak. The fork ears went in too, I'll flip them over tomorrow.

I'll clean up the rear brake shoes and brake plate under running water tomorrow and give the surface a good scrub with toothpaste and a toothbrush like I did with the wheel hubs.
 
I took some stuff out of the remaining Evaporust tonight, it's still working very well on small parts. I put the rear brake arm back in, flipped the fork ears over and resituated the center stand again, I'll check on it Sunday.
 
I don't know if there's anyone getting more of their money's worth out of Evaporust than you are.
 
Would be a good candidate for a forum sponsor!:biggrin:

I suppose so... but we're such small fish I doubt we could get their attention. I wonder if they realize how much the vintage bike ownership uses/needs their product? On the other hand, if they really did the price would probably go up too...
 
I'd love to find a plastic container similar to a paint can and use it like carb dip. My big issue is when using it for large parts in an open container, evaporation is a constant. Perhaps in the summer it'd be less, but I'd really like a sealed container. 5-gallon buckets are great until you need to reopen one. Maybe I'll search for an easy open lid for a 5-gal bucket....

Evaporation was a problem when I was experimenting with vinegar for de-rusting too, but it did kill off all of the creepy crawlers in that basement.
 
I'd love to find a plastic container similar to a paint can and use it like carb dip. My big issue is when using it for large parts in an open container, evaporation is a constant. Perhaps in the summer it'd be less, but I'd really like a sealed container. 5-gallon buckets are great until you need to reopen one. Maybe I'll search for an easy open lid for a 5-gal bucket....

Evaporation was a problem when I was experimenting with vinegar for de-rusting too, but it did kill off all of the creepy crawlers in that basement.
I'm sure you know but they make screw on type.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bucket-...Top-Bucket-Lid-in-Black-LD5GRLBK006/303808738
 
CT90's, my CA95, CA77 all rubber interference fit. The bushings have an outer steel sleeve bonded to the rubber and an inner steel sleeve also bonded, so essentially one piece. The fun is when the interference fit is also rusted in place and even with a proper press, sometimes the only way to remove is to destroy with a hole saw thru the rubber then sawsall through the outer bushing shell and collapse it to remove.... are we having fun yet?


How do those rubber bushings work? Do they act as a bearing to allow the swingarm to pivot?
 
How do those rubber bushings work? Do they act as a bearing to allow the swingarm to pivot?

As Longdistancerider or 66Sprint (I can't remember) pointed out, the rear shocks have but a few inches of travel and the rubber can flex enough to accommodate that. I wait until fully assembled bike sits on the ground before tightening the pivot nut.
 
I don't know if there's anyone getting more of their money's worth out of Evaporust than you are.

No kidding. I think Alan said he was going to strain it out too. Does that stuff have an expiration or shelf life? I've got a batch of MetalRescue that is a couple years old now and I think it said 6 months after dilution from concentrate, but I still have a crusty side stand, so maybe I'll try it.
 
I was watching a YouTube video this afternoon where a shop had a large heated ultrasonic cleaner full of Evaporust, he said when the level gets low they top it off with distilled water. The FAQ at the official website doesn't mention that at all, I'm sure they like their profits. I did strain the remaining liquid, transferred it to a smaller pan and cleaned all of the sediment from the large pan. They advertise that 1 gallon will dissolve 5lbs of rust, that sounds like a lot and I started with 2 gallons... I feel like I've said all this before.

I'll have to do something with the fuel tank soon, I'll probably have to buy more for that. I'd love to find a cheap way to have a recirculating pump like a parts washer to just let it flow over large items. And lastly in the video I mentioned they did a comparison test with some rusty chunks of the same steel, room temp, 140F, and 140F ultrasonic. The 140F was clean product and the stuff in the ultrasonic was murky. The 140F new solution worked best and was fast too. I wonder if I drop in a few of those chemical hand warmers how warm they'd get a couple gallons of this stuff? I should probably start looking for used insulated coolers to use for this, maybe not airtight but should hold the heat in.

From the FAQ at their website: HotHands® has perfected the process so that our warmers, depending on the individual product, produce heat anywhere from 100°F to 180°F for duration of 1 to 20+ hours. And Evaporust is safe around plastics....ill be trying this in a cooler for sure.
 
I was watching a YouTube video this afternoon where a shop had a large heated ultrasonic cleaner full of Evaporust, he said when the level gets low they top it off with distilled water. The FAQ at the official website doesn't mention that at all, I'm sure they like their profits. I did strain the remaining liquid, transferred it to a smaller pan and cleaned all of the sediment from the large pan. They advertise that 1 gallon will dissolve 5lbs of rust, that sounds like a lot and I started with 2 gallons... I feel like I've said all this before.

I'll have to do something with the fuel tank soon, I'll probably have to buy more for that. I'd love to find a cheap way to have a recirculating pump like a parts washer to just let it flow over large items. And lastly in the video I mentioned they did a comparison test with some rusty chunks of the same steel, room temp, 140F, and 140F ultrasonic. The 140F was clean product and the stuff in the ultrasonic was murky. The 140F new solution worked best and was fast too. I wonder if I drop in a few of those chemical hand warmers how warm they'd get a couple gallons of this stuff? I should probably start looking for used insulated coolers to use for this, maybe not airtight but should hold the heat in.

From the FAQ at their website: HotHands® has perfected the process so that our warmers, depending on the individual product, produce heat anywhere from 100°F to 180°F for duration of 1 to 20+ hours. And Evaporust is safe around plastics....ill be trying this in a cooler for sure.

My neighbor gives me styrofoam cases from his Omaha steak orders. Also saw this:
Amazon.com: AQUANEAT Aquarium Water Pump 80GPH, Adjustable, Submersible Pump, Power Head, Small Fountain Pump, for Statuary, Fish Tank, Hydroponics : Pet Supplies
 
That's pretty cool. But I think it'd take up a lot of space in a cooler unless you stack two and use it like a parts washer with a sump, maybe rig up some sort of tubing to go over the top to spray the liquid over large parts?

The cooler I'm thinking of using is from the 90s and was only gently used so it's got plenty of life to give. It's got a drain fitting on one side that I can tap with NPT threads for a barbed fitting, I've got a 90s vintage VW windshield washer pump somewhere that will more than handle what's needed here. I'm thinking of ringing the cooler inside near the top edge with cheap 1/4" clear tubing, I'll figure out something for spray jets or just pierce the hose with a hot needle once it's all in place to create a soak-hose effect. I'll find something to build a filter with, like a wire-frame quarter sphere from a craft store, I'll just stick on some green Scotchbrite to trap the chunks but won't impede flow. Of course this will get out of hand and i'll need to build a pedistol, add a heater, or a drawer full of HOT-HANDS packs from the dollar store. I could probably add a cheap fish tank heater externally with the pump. I think I'd also add a drain Tee fitting and a pair of valves after the pump so I can use the pump to drain the Evaporust (or whatever I settle on) back into jugs for storage, then I'll flush out the system with tap water so nothing clogs when dry. Seems like the pump may need a toggle on/off to run and a momentary push button to drain with.
I'll have to build this before resuming my CB750 projects, I've got some new plans for them.
 
Spare swingarm pivot bolt with both washers and nut arrived just now. I can spin the nut on by hand and count 4, almost 5 threads visible. That's why I'm unable to get the swingarm pivot off the bike, it has 5 threads showing. The PO must have really cranked on that nut with an air impact and jammed the nut on there really good. With this information I'm thinking that I might have to destroy the old nut before pounding the old pivot bolt out. Bad news indeed. I'm again planning to add a grease zerk to the frame tube at the same time as tapping the pivot bolt for real grease zerks on each end. Grumble!

20220110_201359.jpg
 
Pounding the bolt may cause it to mushroom in the swingarm making it fubar. Can you pull the zerks and use a twist bit to remove hardened grease down to where the channel on the axle is for penetrating oil? Too bad you don't have a 1/2 inch electric impact with a 17/19(?) mm deep 6 point socket.
New 1/2" Electric Impact Wrench Gun Set w/ Case & Sockets Driver Free Shipping! 794685082696 | eBay

PORTER-CABLE Impact Wrench, 7.5-Amp, 1/2-Inch (PCE211) - - Amazon.com

Great for lug nuts if you have a car/truck
 
I'm pretty sure I'll be able to do that, it's just going to be a while before I'm able to give it a shot. I'm wondering if I can remove the Honda zerks and clean the bore of old grease, and then insert the upper ends of 2 bendy-straws into the zerk holes, and spray in some Seafoam Deep Creep, it'll be like having an oil reservoir or a self-oiler. If I can find some straws and they fit, I'll give it a try. I'm not in a hurry, it'll come loose when it's ready just like the steering damper did.

Those impacts look great, I'm not sure how often I'd use them though. Maybe when I've got my "forever shop".
 
The swingarm shaft is only drilled in a little ways, only enough to lube the bearings. The only way to get get the bolt to let go of the tube in the frame is to heat the frame with a propane or acetylene torch so it will let go of the rust in the hole. Pounding on the bolt will just swell the end, putting a long cheater pipe on the end of the bolt will just twist it off.
 
I'm pretty sure I'll be able to do that, it's just going to be a while before I'm able to give it a shot. I'm wondering if I can remove the Honda zerks and clean the bore of old grease, and then insert the upper ends of 2 bendy-straws into the zerk holes, and spray in some Seafoam Deep Creep, it'll be like having an oil reservoir or a self-oiler. If I can find some straws and they fit, I'll give it a try. I'm not in a hurry, it'll come loose when it's ready just like the steering damper did.

Those impacts look great, I'm not sure how often I'd use them though. Maybe when I've got my "forever shop".

I bought mine at a pawn shop for $40, I think. Harbour Freight used to have em too for cheap. Another old school trick is press on your combo wrench (with hand padding) while striking with a steel hammer near the other end. My wrenches have a few battle scars. It sends shock to the nut like an impact. Oil, heat, beat, repeat.
 
I've been thinking quite a bit about these fenders and air cleaner covers, they play a pretty large role in the overall look of the bike. I've decided to respray them rather than keep their scratches, dents and former rust spots as they are. I've ordered a couple cans of genuine Honda 08707-NH35M TUP CLOUD SILVER and will wait for warmer weather to wash off the protective coat of dried Evaporust and begin prepping these parts.
 
OH CANDY!



Seriously I'll probably continue with the plan to hit them hard with rubbing compound first and maybe put it to a vote. It's only original once and picking at a flaw will really confuse the look of the final product.

But I'll have 2 cans of Cloud Silver on the shelf...
 
It would be a tough decision, since the minute you improve one part - even trying your best not to actually make it look new - the whole balance of patina changes.
 
Exactly! I think I'd buy a very distressed set of fenders if I wanted to repaint a set. There are a few on eBay that look like they have 3-4 layers of different colors on them

I'm not sure I even want to bend the footpegs back down until after I've bolted them on, ridden a little, and spent some time with them.
 
It would be a tough decision, since the minute you improve one part - even trying your best not to actually make it look new - the whole balance of patina changes.

You got that right. After almost 60 years of existence things are bound to be complicated. The bikes and the riders tell tales of many nuances.
 
Exactly! I think I'd buy a very distressed set of fenders if I wanted to repaint a set. There are a few on eBay that look like they have 3-4 layers of different colors on them

I'm not sure I even want to bend the footpegs back down until after I've bolted them on, ridden a little, and spent some time with them.

Whatever you do, you're obviously not Bob.
 
All very well said by AD & BB.
I'll treat it as if it all has historical significance, like a race bike.
But I'll probably try to ease that dent on the front fender some...undecided. I'll have to spend some time with it, maybe set it over the front wheel and drink a beer with it.
 
All very well said by AD & BB.
I'll treat it as if it all has historical significance, like a race bike.
But I'll probably try to ease that dent on the front fender some...undecided. I'll have to spend some time with it, maybe set it over the front wheel and drink a beer with it.

Maybe use a tactic from the paintless dent guys and try using a roller-type tool to smooth it a bit
 
I've got a nice (USA made) domed teardrop mallet and a cheap set of auto body dollies (somewhere) that I'll try. I really want to be gentle on the paint, I'll warm it with a heat gun first.
 
The dent is at the rear of the front fender so a good repair isn't too critical, I am hoping to blend it in better though.
 
One issue I didn't have with the Bomber I'm working on. It came to me painted flat black, everywhere except the engine and the rims. Once you start painting your doing the whole job because Tom's right, one painted fender looks just terrible. You have to keep going. Which means you have to take the bike down to the frame.
 
Between the day job becoming suddenly busy, and the cold weather hitting us hard, I haven't accomplished much of anything on this bike lately. The center stand is still soaking though, and I have everything I need to clean up the tank, rebuild the petcock and recover the seat.


I'm trying not to start any side projects for this bike. I've drawn up plans for an insulated cooler converted into a de-rusting wash cabinet, this will come in handy in the future. And I've decided on another project that I'll be undertaking for this bike after it's all back together and running. Don't bash me for it but I think I want to build a fiberglass dustbin fairing for it. After reading this guy's sidecar build: https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/threads/led-sled-sidecar-project.26096 and this bit of history: http://yorkshireferret.blogspot.com/2016/01/a-lucky-find-return-of-potts-dustbin.html?m=1
I'm inspired by the simplicity, low cost, low weight, high materials availability and I just want to give it a go.
 
Between the day job becoming suddenly busy, and the cold weather hitting us hard, I haven't accomplished much of anything on this bike lately. The center stand is still soaking though, and I have everything I need to clean up the tank, rebuild the petcock and recover the seat.


I'm trying not to start any side projects for this bike. I've drawn up plans for an insulated cooler converted into a de-rusting wash cabinet, this will come in handy in the future. And I've decided on another project that I'll be undertaking for this bike after it's all back together and running. Don't bash me for it but I think I want to build a fiberglass dustbin fairing for it. After reading this guy's sidecar build: https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/threads/led-sled-sidecar-project.26096 and this bit of history: http://yorkshireferret.blogspot.com/2016/01/a-lucky-find-return-of-potts-dustbin.html?m=1
I'm inspired by the simplicity, low cost, low weight, high materials availability and I just want to give it a go.
Really cool, thanks
 
I'd love to have a clear lexan dustbin fairing, I can't imagine vacuum pulling a heated lexan bubble on 3 axis like that though, it'd have to be vacuum pulled into a mold... (thinking)

That's going to have to be a project for another day, I'll give it some thought.

This might be easier made in 3 pieces, but it would never be as cool or as strong as one piece could be.

There's always this: https://hostelshoppe.com/products/fa-wnd-bubble-wintr-clear?_pos=6&_sid=c0d1530c0&_ss=r
Which could probably be mounted way out front, just above the axle centerline... It would be an awkward mount for sure.

Thoughts?
 
Excellent idea,designing and building a fairing.
The small bikes really need a fairing to cut through the wind;lots of wind resistance slows these small engines down.
 
I'd love to have a clear lexan dustbin fairing, I can't imagine vacuum pulling a heated lexan bubble on 3 axis like that though, it'd have to be vacuum pulled into a mold... (thinking)

That's going to have to be a project for another day, I'll give it some thought.

This might be easier made in 3 pieces, but it would never be as cool or as strong as one piece could be.

There's always this: https://hostelshoppe.com/products/fa-wnd-bubble-wintr-clear?_pos=6&_sid=c0d1530c0&_ss=r
Which could probably be mounted way out front, just above the axle centerline... It would be an awkward mount for sure.

Thoughts?

That's pretty cool, in a way. Some where between a windshield and a fairing. You keep thinking out of the box like this, you're gonna come up with something one of these days.
 
Thanks! I like the recumbent bicycle fairing because it weighs only 4lbs, but mounting it will likely be the big issue.

And I figured for $300 I can do a lot of experimentation with fiberglass.

I'll probably build a pvc pipe buck and start with paper mache for proof of concept.
 
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