• Don't overlook our Welcome Package, it contains many links to important and helpful information about functions at VHT like posting pictures and sending PMs (private messages), as well as finding the parts you need.

    AD

Stator question

Richard Pitman

Richard Pitman

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Total Posts
2,582
Total likes
705
Location
Worcester, England
Four wires, one ( green with red stripe ) is for the neutral switch.

Other three should be yellow, white and pink. As standard, pink wire goes straight to rectifier, as does the yellow wire. White wire is switched ( or hard wired ) to the yellow wire for increased charging.

Problem arises when it's difficult to identify the wire colours at the stator.

No way of identifying which is which using a meter ?

Am I right in thinking that charging would work just as well if white wire was combined with the pink wire ?

But it wouldn't work if, for example, white wire went direct to rectifier, and the pink and yellow wires combined went to other connection on the ( four wire ) rectifier ?

( Which might explain why my CL360 stator conversion didn't work )
 
If you can't make out the colors, label the wires 1,2 and 3
There are 3 possible 2 wire pairings
a. pair 1 to 2 ... Run 3 separately
b. Pair 1 to 3 ... run 2 separately
c. Pair 2 to 3 ... run 1 separately
only one of these pairs will give maximum output, the other 2 pairings won't hurt anything , they will just have a lower output .
run the ignition off a separate battery and test the stator output with the engine running .
( use a 12-volt headlight as a dummy load across the paired leads)
... or You could a use a 100 watt , 1 ohm resistor
... this would give you total wattage at different RPMs ( volts x voltage x 1 ohm )
 
Richard Pitman said:
Four wires, one ( green with red stripe ) is for the neutral switch.

Other three should be yellow, white and pink. As standard, pink wire goes straight to rectifier, as does the yellow wire. White wire is switched ( or hard wired ) to the yellow wire for increased charging.

Problem arises when it's difficult to identify the wire colours at the stator.

No way of identifying which is which using a meter ?

Am I right in thinking that charging would work just as well if white wire was combined with the pink wire ?.....NO.......

But it wouldn't work if, for example, white wire went direct to rectifier, and the pink and yellow wires combined went to other connection on the ( four wire ) rectifier ?.....NO.......

( Which might explain why my CL360 stator conversion didn't work )
Click to expand...

While the Dyno will produce some electrical energy if wired either way you suggested, you can see from the schematic that it effectively "shorts out" one of the sets of coils.....
Remember, energy is only produced as the magnetic field in a coil fluxes, and the north/south positioning of the rotor magnets is also part of this equation....

dyno.png
With white connected to pink, only two of the six coils remain active, but those are the "normal daylight" windings, so you are fine as long as no lights are used.....
With yellow connected to pink, the four coils that are wound with a wire gauge to produce more amperage/less voltage are in play, and the battery won't recharge as well......
 
Thanks both, I am gradually beginning to see the light, no pun intended.

A related question - so far as we know, did Honda wire the stator plugs in the same order / sequence on all the small twins of that era ? Just wondering if the bike loom I'm looking at has a new block connector fitted with the latch on the wrong side ie transposed 180 degrees.

0i1deQI.jpg
 
Richard Pitman said:
A related question - so far as we know, did Honda wire the stator plugs in the same order / sequence on all the small twins of that era ? Just wondering if the bike loom I'm looking at has a new block connector fitted with the latch on the wrong side ie transposed 180 degrees.
Click to expand...

I can't vouch for Mike's experiences, but back when I was at the shop, It was with fairly new bikes and it was simple to note that the wires were connecting color to color, and the "blocks" latched properly.....Didn't give it much thought other than that......

IF you number the wires as Mike specified, I CAN tell you how to determine the actual original wire colors by the AC output readings.....
Wire pair with the largest/highest AC voltage at idle Are Pink and Yellow.....Typically 18 to 20+ VAC....
Second largest voltage pair are Pink and White.......Typically 15 to 17-ish VAC......
Lowest voltage pair is White to Yellow.....Typically 4 to 6 VAC....
Whichever (number) wire is common to the two higher voltage outputs is the Pink wire.......
 
Thanks. It'll be a while before I get the engine in question up and running, to check those voltages.

I have several stators here, all still fitted with original unmolested connector blocks, just can't make out the wire colours. The issue is the block connector on the used loom that I have on my SL175 project, I'm now fairly sure that some of the connectors in that block have been swapped around. My best course of action is to compare this with a known correct connector on one of my other 175s.

I've searched the web, looking at CB175 looms, to see if I can make out the wire colours at that connector, without much luck, so later on today I shall be in my sub zero garage with a flash light, groping around under my CL175 ...
 
IF my reasoning is correct (and not 100% it is), you SHOULD BE able to determine which wire is Pink strictly by taking Ohms readings.....
Obviously, whichever wire shows no connection to the remaining three is the neutral switch wire (Green/Red stripe)
White to Yellow has the most turns of wire between them, so should read highest resistance...Remaining of those three is Pink......
I believe the Next highest resistance would be Pink (now known) to Yellow, but IF you have permanently connected White and Yellow,
transposing those two makes NO difference......
 
Thanks, that's something I can certainly try.

My previous meddling is coming back to bite me in the proverbial. Looked at the CL175 connector, to find that at some point in the past I'd rewired the loom side of the connector with three yellow wires, what was I thinking. That bike is charging the battery correctly, so I may be able to pick up the correct colours further up in the loom.
 
Richard Pitman said:
Thanks, that's something I can certainly try.

My previous meddling is coming back to bite me in the proverbial. Looked at the CL175 connector, to find that at some point in the past I'd rewired the loom side of the connector with three yellow wires, what was I thinking. That bike is charging the battery correctly, so I may be able to pick up the correct colours further up in the loom.
Click to expand...
Richard I’m in the same boat you are at the moment. I just received an eBay cl200 stator I’m planning on going into a cl175 and of course just like my cl175 stator the wires in the plug are all a faded white color after I pull back the black insulation. I cannot for the life of me tell which color is which but I’m hoping as you are that all plugs were configured in the same order and can hopefully use that to determine which wires are which. I don’t have a stock harness so first chance I get I’m going to check the voltage while the bike is running and see if that might help me determine.
 
Hi Rortiz,

It would help me no end if you could post a pic of the stator connecter on the bikes loom.

Ah, just reread your post, not a stock harness. If anyone out there could confirm that this pic does show a stock 175 stator plug, loom side, I'd be so grateful !!

pFGBFLv.jpg
 
This is from an eBay listing for a NOS cb175 stator. Your plug picture matches this configuration if that means anything.
N60Hu1G.jpg
 
Who knew an eBay listing would actually have good pictures like that of a stator with wires that weren't faded?? Nice find
 
That is a superb photo, and many thanks for finding it. I think that answers all my questions !

I didn't realise that the actual fabric sleeving was coloured like that.
 
Playing with a pair of CB350 stators and resistance.
Yellow + White 1.8 ohms
Pink + White .7 ohms
Pink + Yellow 1.2 ohms
2nd stator doesn't have any identifiable Honda colors, someone added Red, Blue and Yellow wires to it.
Red + Blue 1.1 ohms
Red + Yellow .8 ohms
Yellow + Blue 2.0 ohms
I imagine that you would have somewhat similar results measuring out your stator
 
I'm upgrading my cb160 to a cb175 stator. This is a above picture solves the wire identity problem at the stator side but in the rectifier side I only have yellow wires. wondering if I need to color coordinate at the rectifier side.

Couldn't get images to upload so click on link if you want to see them. Thanks fellas.

https://ibb.co/vLYDc2C

https://ibb.co/c8hZY7K

https://ibb.co/zGfnK1p
 

Attachments

  • cb160.jpg
    cb160.jpg
    223.3 KB · Views: 11
It appears you have a three phase rectifier in a single phase system.....(Not sure because can't clearly see the unit)....
This will work by simply connecting the pink to one yellow, the white to another, and the yellow to the remaining yellow....
Which to which is not critical....
 
Wow! Thanks for the quick reply. Hope my new to me CB175 stator gives me a little more charging power than the one I currently have.
 
Remember, the system DISCHARGES at any rev speed below 2800/3000 RPM...Adequate CHARGING starts about 4000/4500 RPM......
These bikes LOVE to be revved, so lugging them around can be detrimental to both battery and engine.......
 
So now that I have an LED headlight bulb and my new stator installed I am generating pretty good charge at idle but up to 16.5 volts when cruising. Looks like I need to install a regulator/rectifier. My new unit looks to have only two yellow wires to connect to my stator.

Do I establish the color of my three black stator wires using the Mike In Idaho technique and then splice the newly established white and yellow together and connect that to one of the yellows on my voltage reg. and the pink to the other yellow on the voltage reg?

Sorry if this all sounds confusing.
 
Boverdude said:
So now that I have an LED headlight bulb and my new stator installed I am generating pretty good charge at idle but up to 16.5 volts when cruising. Looks like I need to install a regulator/rectifier. My new unit looks to have only two yellow wires to connect to my stator.

Do I establish the color of my three black stator wires using the Mike In Idaho technique and then splice the newly established white and yellow together and connect that to one of the yellows on my voltage reg. and the pink to the other yellow on the voltage reg?

Sorry if this all sounds confusing.
Click to expand...

Assuming the replacement unit is actually a rectifier/regulator, the answer is yes......
However, if it is simply a rectifier, (and would be identically connected) it won't solve the overcharging......
You may phone to further discuss....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom