I guess I'm just a cranky old man, "hey, get off my...," but I don't know why people include gifs in their posts. Am I supposed to read the post, or watch at the gif? Like music on youtube videos, while someone is talking about how to overhaul a Keihin 723 carb. Anyway, if you're using firefox and want to turn off gifs-
- Type "about:config" in the address bar.
- Click "I accept the risk!" when it comes up.
- Find "image.animation" using the search box (just type "anim")
- Double-click "image. animation_mode."
- In the next box, type either "once," so the animated GIFs only get one chance to play, or "none" so they never can.
(Thanks, google)
And by the way, thank you Nick_Brox for an very informative post. I'll be using non-ethanol fuel in the bike when I get it on the road. Fortunately, there's some about two miles away.
Cheers
Most problems with Ethanol are due to not riding the bike regularly and avoiding costs to adept the bike to new fuels. If you want to ride these bikes, change the rubbers and gaskets in your carbs with ethanol resistant rubber and replace the valve seats for Ethanol resistant ones.Our problems with ethanol are far worse than what's been brought up so far.
The stuff is death to our valves and valve seats, they get decayed like bad teeth after a while.
Now seats can be reground of course, but on one beloved model (CB/CL450 DOHC) this often times leads to worse issues of valve extrusion.
At least 50% of the 450's I've seen have (probably) ethanol related damage in this way.
Problems solved.
I added over 20.000 km's on my bomber after rebuild including replacing the seats and valves, no issue's with Ethanol (10-15 %). We are not allowed to ride the bike in winter, so I add a stabilizer before parking the bike with a full gas tank to avoid rust.
It's almost impossible to get ethanol free patrol in the Netherlands, and I think that now the US signed the Paris Climate Agreement, it won't be long that the US faces the same situation under the flag of environment and sustainability (and this is not a political statement, just an observation).
Last edited by 66Sprint; 01.24.21 at 5:44 AM. Reason: clarification....
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
CB450's (K0's, K1's, K2's), CB72'61-'67, all years, C77'64, CB400f '74, Kawasaki KR1-s '90
Problem is that replacing valve seats will cost around $135-$150 per valve - if you can find a machinist willing to do it......
Bill Lane - Rest In Peace
No advice, just info
'75 CB200T, '71 CB450 K4 Half-Breed, '72 CL350 (Sold), '81 CM200T (Sold), '72 C70M (Sold)
and a little red Chineeze scooter
http://www.bikeexif.com/honda-cb450-restoration
Replacing mine costed me 100 euro per valve, not that expensive taking into account that you upgrade your bike and make it withstand modern gas. It also depends what your intention was for buying a bike this age. If people thought it was a cheap ride, they're wrong. Riding a classic bike as being a modern bike will cost you. Buying them cheap doesn't mean you don't have to spend money.
For some reason people think that parts and work on a classic bike should be cheap because the bike is old (nice if possible !), but the reality is different. Look at the prices of parts of modern bikes, if someone thinks that 800 euro is expensive for a set of NOS mufflers of a 450, take a look at a modern muffler system of any given Japanese bike today.
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
CB450's (K0's, K1's, K2's), CB72'61-'67, all years, C77'64, CB400f '74, Kawasaki KR1-s '90
I am far, far from even a novice on this subject. Carburetors and I generally speaking, do not have good relationships. It is a subject I've gone back on forth on though, mostly due to the doom and gloom predictions that seems to follow it. Always with boo coos of "personal experiences" attached to each story. I'm not doubting ANY of that. I'm not suggesting that anyone else should, but... here's another view. Offered simply to show there IS another view. You'll have to be the judge. Me? I STILL haven't decided if it's the worst things that ever happened to gas, or something else. What I do know is that usually, it's the only thing available today.
https://motorcycleproject.com/
Scroll to near the bottom under the "Tech Articles" heading, then scroll to "Ethanol good or bad?"
"They're not like cars with a body that rusts out in a few years. Keep them tuned and overhauled and they'll last as long as you do. Probably longer." - Robert Pirsig
Hey, is ok to go back-n-forth from VP Vintage Fuel then to 100LL Jet fuel then back or mixing when going from one to the other? Thanks
Not sure why you would run 100+ octane fuel in an engine designed for 86. But there shouldn't be a problem other than a light wallet.
Jim O'Brien
1979 CM400T aka the Roadbike, 1978 CB400T1 semi restored, 1972 CL350K4 restoration and the 1971 SL350K1 disaster zone.
Plus 2 SL350K0's , 2 SL350K1's, 1 CL350K0 and 1 CL350K1 waiting for space and time
Contact: 408-239-9580 or [email protected]
100LL is aviation gasoline, not jet fuel (that would not work). Not aware of problems with high octane causing damage but it provides no benefit either if your engine doesn't require it. The lead content could be beneficial in bikes older than mid 70s, someone may have experience with lead in newer bikes.
1981 CM400T
Not doing it for the 100 octane, but rather the no ethanol. I know folks on this string earlier said to just use regular gas plus Stabil. I was certainly going that way. Then I worked out all of my carb issues that drove me crazy for the past year. I finally replaced the carbs and now the bike runs great. The mechanic I worked with and some others swear by the VP Vintage fuel stuff. But Geez that stuff is crazy high (~$93 / 5 gal drum). @76Twin said on page 1 of this string that 100LL AV is a good option. I live really close to a small airport and the gas is only a $1/gal more than car gas. Others have suggested this plane fuel too in other groups and local friends. I think I am moving that direction. It's hobby gas, not commuting gas, so I guess I am okay with the cost for now.
I have to re-read all the other responses and maybe it's already been commented on but is ok both 100LL and VP vintage get sloshed together in the tank at the same time? Or do I need to burn one all the way down before mixing in the other? Thanks
Last edited by msanford; 06.10.22 at 9:19 PM. Reason: grammar
I can't see any issues with a blend of the 2 fuels.
Jim O'Brien
1979 CM400T aka the Roadbike, 1978 CB400T1 semi restored, 1972 CL350K4 restoration and the 1971 SL350K1 disaster zone.
Plus 2 SL350K0's , 2 SL350K1's, 1 CL350K0 and 1 CL350K1 waiting for space and time
Contact: 408-239-9580 or [email protected]
In the UK I've switched over to Esso E5 fuel, which currently has zero ethanol content.
Our Synergy Supreme+ 99 petrol has more cleaning power than our regular petrol – and includes molecules whose job it is to reduce the friction in your engine helping the moving parts work more efficiently.*Although our pumps have E5 labels on them, our Synergy Supreme+ 99 is actually ethanol free (except, due to technical supply reasons, in Devon, Cornwall, North Wales, North England and Scotland). Legislation requires us to place these E5 labels on pumps that dispense unleaded petrol with ‘up to 5% ethanol’, including those that contain no ethanol, which is why we display them on our Synergy Supreme+ 99 pumps.
There’s currently no requirement for renewable fuel, like ethanol, to be present in super unleaded petrol although this could change in the future, in which case we would comply with any new legislation.
1972 CL175K7
1970 CB174K4, 'upgraded' to a K6 alike
1971 SL175, with a few non standard parts !
1998 CB600 Hornet
I wouldn't put 100LL specifically in there if you don't have to. The lead content may end up fouling your spark plugs in the long run. Hope you keep spares just in case. Otherwise, it's probably OK.
There are two sites that track ethanol free gas stations. Maybe there is one closer to you than you think and you can avoid putting the aviation fuel in your bike. One is Pure Gas, https://www.pure-gas.org/, the other is Buy Real Gas https://www.buyrealgas.com/.
79 CM400A Hondamatic
77 CB550K
74 Yamaha DT250
76 Puch Maxi E50 (Nostalgia Edition)
81 Puch Maxi E50
82 Puch Maxi ZA50
Home of the Homebrew Hondamatic and CM400T CDI -- NOW AVAILABLE for plug and play CDI. Get one or a kit here.
Project Farm did a comparison of the lucas ethanol fuel stabilizer product over the span of a year with various ethanol fuel grades to see if it had any effect:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvS_D4_lF5U
I can say from personal experience, that product did not help as well I would have liked it to. Stabil Marine worked somewhat well. I've found, strictly by accident, that ethanol gas mixed with two stroke oil seems to hold up quite well. I had mopeds where I was lazy and forgot to drain their tanks and they sat for over a year and they were still able to start and run. Not sure if this would have the effect of potentially fouling the plugs on a 4T engine if you continually used 2T oil mixed in with the gas. So do this at your own risk.
79 CM400A Hondamatic
77 CB550K
74 Yamaha DT250
76 Puch Maxi E50 (Nostalgia Edition)
81 Puch Maxi E50
82 Puch Maxi ZA50
Home of the Homebrew Hondamatic and CM400T CDI -- NOW AVAILABLE for plug and play CDI. Get one or a kit here.
vp gas.PNG
First, thanks for the websites! I continue to keep my eyes open for a gas station that sells no ethanol gas. I'm in a bit of desert for those gas stations apparently being in Delaware. Gotta get further out in Central PA or down in MD.
What I don't understand from your message is the lead and spark plugs. The really good fuel VP Vintage, currently ~$25/gal :o has lead. So I thought lead is good?
Last edited by msanford; 06.14.22 at 8:48 PM. Reason: inserted picture and it turned to "code" which went on forever
I used an Android app called Pure Gas to locate gas stations with no ethanol options in my area. The closest is about 40 miles away, so I fill up two gas cans at a time. If I were riding the same bike every day, I wouldn't worry as much about the ethanol, but if a bike might sit for a week or two at a time, I prefer to use pure gas.
1974 CB360G
1974 CB450K7
My experience has been that E15 sitting in the fuel lines and carburetor tends to gel very quickly. I would notice this through either buildup in the float needle/seat or blockages in the idle circuit. I haven't experimented with fuel additives or stabilizers, but I've been using the pure gas since last summer and I feel like it's been worth my effort to drive the 40 miles to buy it.
1974 CB360G
1974 CB450K7
keeping ethanol gas shakin up and moving through the carburetors helps. Here in Virginia it is possible to go for a quick ride every 2 weeks. I never winterize my bikes, just keep riding them. In 11 years, I have never had the carburetors off my V65 Magna. I'm sure if I would let the bike set all winter with ethanol gas in it, I would be cleaning gunk out of the carbs every spring.
Craig Glen Allen, VA
73 CL175
81 KZ305
85 V65 Magna
81 XS650 Special
Lead in gas does lead to a dirtier spark plug and the lead is conductive and can bridge on the spark plugs after some time. How much is it really an issue if you stay on top of your maintenance is hard to say. But if you start fouling plugs and the only thing different is the lead content then that would be a good place to start.
79 CM400A Hondamatic
77 CB550K
74 Yamaha DT250
76 Puch Maxi E50 (Nostalgia Edition)
81 Puch Maxi E50
82 Puch Maxi ZA50
Home of the Homebrew Hondamatic and CM400T CDI -- NOW AVAILABLE for plug and play CDI. Get one or a kit here.
I found this.
“Tetraethyl lead” was used in early model cars to help reduce engine knocking, boost octane ratings, and help with wear and tear on valve seats within the motor. Due to concerns over air pollution and health risks, this type of gas was slowly phased out starting in the late 1970’s and banned altogether in all on-road vehicles in the U.S. in 1995.
Back when cars were carbureted and had points and condensor, tune ups were required every 10,000 miles or so. Each tune up included replacing spark plugs. Todays clean burning cars and unleaded fuels make plug replacement almost unnessary. At 150,000 miles, I was going to replace spark plugs on my wifes 2012 Nisson Rogue. After pulling a couple easy front plugs, they looked so good, I put them back in.
Craig Glen Allen, VA
73 CL175
81 KZ305
85 V65 Magna
81 XS650 Special
So you use ethanol gas but ride every 2 weeks and no issues for 11 years, wow! I guess the shaking up has something to it or maybe just constant fresh gas has not had time to absorb water and is burned before new gas gets put in. That's great. I doubt with my mechanical skills when something goes wrong with my bike I can keep the bike on the road every 2 weeks . . . . certainly not with Delaware winters. I am not into riding when it falls probably below 45.
I will stay with Pure Gas, Leaded, 100 octane AV Gas with my only reasonable pure gas nearby being the airport. I do close my petcock and burn the gas down in the carbs even with the Pure Gas between every ride now. If this is absolutely not necessary with Pure Gas, please let me know. No reason to annoy my neighbors longer than absolutely necessary.
I saw the messages below on the reasons spark plugs and lead cause fouling, thanks. It doesn't sound like they will be a mess too quick. Call me wasteful but I could see putting new plugs in every spring as routine bike prep for the season.
Thanks again to all the messages. I am learning a lot!
Last edited by msanford; 06.15.22 at 7:14 AM. Reason: grammar
I have used ethanol plenty of times in the bikes and have had it last longer than two weeks. It seems like it could go about 2-3 months before it starts really going bad. At least in all my bikes.
With that said, I stopped using ethanol when possible except filling up out of town mainly because of the gas mileage and in case I am lazy and forget to drain the carbs and the gas at the end of the season.
79 CM400A Hondamatic
77 CB550K
74 Yamaha DT250
76 Puch Maxi E50 (Nostalgia Edition)
81 Puch Maxi E50
82 Puch Maxi ZA50
Home of the Homebrew Hondamatic and CM400T CDI -- NOW AVAILABLE for plug and play CDI. Get one or a kit here.
Hah, yeah. But I've been in situations one too many times where it's October or November and it's starting to get cold, but not too cold that I won't ride anymore. I park the bike and then it gets cold for a few days, then warm enough to ride again, off and on for a few weeks. Then it's just too cold where I won't do it any more and I totally forget to drain the carbs until like January or February. So, I'd rather pay that additional expense of the ethanol free fuel so I'm not totally screwed in that situation.
79 CM400A Hondamatic
77 CB550K
74 Yamaha DT250
76 Puch Maxi E50 (Nostalgia Edition)
81 Puch Maxi E50
82 Puch Maxi ZA50
Home of the Homebrew Hondamatic and CM400T CDI -- NOW AVAILABLE for plug and play CDI. Get one or a kit here.