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Rotor jump

mikeranger

Well-known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Total Posts
58
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0
Location
daventry northants uk
Having been constantly frustrated by the rotor jumping just as you get the timing marks aligned after setting the points, I was thinking of making up some form of stopper mounted to the frame for the spanner to rest at the correct mark.
Various contraptions were tried and binned. So the scissor jack system came to light. The jack is roughly set at a height so that when the vice grips are turned towards the timing mark the lower end of the grips rests on the jack.

Provided the grips are holding the rotor just before the timing mark the jack can be wound down with almost vernier accuracy to the timing mark. Then timing up is easy without the rotor wanting to jump

67131391-84E6-40FE-853C-4988B64B8155.jpg


Mike Cl450
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I use a 3/8" drive short breaker bar with a socket to do pretty much the same thing with chunks of wood instead of the jack. The jack is a better idea.
 
I use the same method. Scissors jack and box end wrench. I position the wrench nearest to the 9:00 position as possible and adjust the jack to align timing marks. Incredibly accurate.

I just performed this procedure as I installed electronic ignition on my cafe racer project. Bike now starts before the engine makes a complete revolution. Timing is spot on.

PS
I know that there are electronic ignition haters here, but I am so fed up with junk points sets (China) that I am in the process of converting my daily riders also.
 
I know that there are electronic ignition haters here, but I am so fed up with junk points sets (China) that I am in the process of converting my daily riders also.

Not electronic ignition haters, just haters of unreliable units. In fairness many of the failures in the past have (likely) been due to voltage spikes on bikes that did not have modern rec/reg combo units on them. If I'm going to spend the money it will be for a unit with electronic advance that has a strong track record of reliability. I can't disagree with your situation and the crappy points out there for the 350 but based on others experiences in the last few years with EIs, I'm not inclined to make the change until I find one I can believe in because I know for a fact that my points won't leave me on the side of the road.
 
For years, (all the way back to the MSN DOHC 450 group), I have been using a cheap hydraulic jack for this, and suggesting others do so... The ACME threads allowed the same fine adjustments...Never got this much response.....I don't get it!....:lol::lol::lol:
 
Tom,
I will admit that I was leery at first, but the unit was a Father's Day gift from my son. After much frustration trying to get the points to work properly and reliably, I gave in and installed the EI. Since I scratch built the wiring harness for the bike, I had already upgraded the reg/rec. I also ran multiple fused circuits and separate relays for lighting and ignition. Unit does use the mechanical advance though, so we will see how that works out.
 
Tom,
I will admit that I was leery at first, but the unit was a Father's Day gift from my son. After much frustration trying to get the points to work properly and reliably, I gave in and installed the EI. Since I scratch built the wiring harness for the bike, I had already upgraded the reg/rec. I also ran multiple fused circuits and separate relays for lighting and ignition. Unit does use the mechanical advance though, so we will see how that works out.

No worries on the thread drift, it happens. Under the circumstances I'd have installed the EI as well, wish I'd get a Father's Day gift like that myself. It isn't that the units that use the mechanical advance aren't good units, many are, but the best situation IMO would be to eliminate all mechanical aspects completely. Since you went with clean new wiring and a modern rec/reg combo you should get the most longevity from your EI.
 
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