Float height setting tip

[shadtews]

Here is a little tip I'd like to pass along that I found handy when setting my float height. If you purchased a rebuild kit and now have two sets of float valves, you can super glue the plunger on one of the float valves so that it doesn't compress and use it as a tool to avoid having to try and hold the carb at "just the right angle where the float tab just touches the valve without compressing it".

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...ZaMF90UHpadmtn

Then you can simply stand the carb on it's head and measure the height.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...ZaMF90UHpadmtn

Just make sure the one you glued doesn't end up in the carburetor at the end of the rebuild.

[1969 CL350]

…and make sure the one you glue isn’t the good one. Sometimes the old one is better than the new one from the rebuild kit…lol

[ancientdad]

Here is a little tip I'd like to pass along that I found handy when setting my float height. If you purchased a rebuild kit and now have two sets of float valves, you can super glue the plunger on one of the float valves so that it doesn't compress and use it as a tool to avoid having to try and hold the carb at "just the right angle where the float tab just touches the valve without compressing it".

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...ZaMF90UHpadmtn

Then you can simply stand the carb on it's head and measure the height.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...ZaMF90UHpadmtn

Just make sure the one you glued doesn't end up in the carburetor at the end of the rebuild.

I like it, and as such you've created a post for the Tips and Tricks section.

[LongDistanceRider]

Need to edit the first post to include which carbs this is for and year/model of the bike

[lxhws]

Here is a little tip I'd like to pass along that I found handy when setting my float height. If you purchased a rebuild kit and now have two sets of float valves, you can super glue the plunger on one of the float valves so that it doesn't compress and use it as a tool to avoid having to try and hold the carb at "just the right angle where the float tab just touches the valve without compressing it".

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...ZaMF90UHpadmtn

Then you can simply stand the carb on it's head and measure the height.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...ZaMF90UHpadmtn

Just make sure the one you glued doesn't end up in the carburetor at the end of the rebuild.

I like it. Good thinking!!

[66Sprint]

Here is a little tip I'd like to pass along that I found handy when setting my float height. If you purchased a rebuild kit and now have two sets of float valves, you can super glue the plunger on one of the float valves so that it doesn't compress and use it as a tool to avoid having to try and hold the carb at "just the right angle where the float tab just touches the valve without compressing it".

Then you can simply stand the carb on it's head and measure the height.

Just make sure the one you glued doesn't end up in the carburetor at the end of the rebuild.

Many aftermarket rebuild "kits" do NOT contain the correct length shut-off needle to begin with, so, unless it's a good, stock Honda part, this may produce errors in fuel levels......Bad/worn/or damaged needles, even original Honda ones, will set incorrectly (likely too deep in their seats)......

Just a thought......

[LongDistanceRider]

Like Steve says, every aftermarket float needle for the VB22 carbs is wrong which doesn't help with non adjustable floats. As I see it the only way this is a viable trick is if the fixed float needle is exactly the same length as the new replacements and this is measured from the contact surface of where the tip actually seats to the other end.

[teebo]

So wouldn't you know...

I had been tinkering with float height for a different issue and ran across this.

I had originally used a rebuild kit before I was educated. But I had kept the kit float seat and needle, and put the stock jets back in with new orings.

While I was back in to set back to spec float height, I measured. Not only where the kit needles different from stock, but they were different from each other. The stock were the same height. Also, the stock spring in the needle was more sensitive (age related?).

I have adjustable floats (3D carbs) so I imagine that is adjusted out? At any rate, I had only kept the float seat because of the Oring. While readjusting, I just used the new Oring on the OEM seat and I'm back to original. Except my jet needles. I seeme to have misplaced one of the original.

Once back together, there was a float height difference. Greater than the kit needle difference. So the seat had to be a little different too.

The pros here are thinking "Duh. We've been saying don't use kit parts."

[ancientdad]

Well, that's before you came to know the problem I'm sure, but you know it now. Yeah, it's amazing the inconsistency in manufacturing, it's like they had incorrect samples to have the new ones made from. Or they just guessed.

[teebo]

Well, that's before you came to know the problem I'm sure, but you know it now. Yeah, it's amazing the inconsistency in manufacturing, it's like they had incorrect samples to have the new ones made from. Or they just guessed.

Not as good machinery? Not enough effs to give? I'm guessing this crowd is more demanding. Close isn't good enough. I mean at this point I'm tinkering because of some very mild popping during deceleration.

[ancientdad]

I'm no carb expert, but richening the idle mixture screws a little might help that, it would likely be a compromise between best idle and less decel pops.

[teebo]

That's what I thought too. Tried that little bitty tweaks at a time.

But then decided it's all a crap shoot until I'm back to known good. So I reset to stock float parts and height.

I rather feel it's all in the margins now. But WTH? I know it can be resolved, it's all a system of dependencies, and I have time and a stubborn streak.

[Scrambled1]

I just came across your post and still have a question. The 305 carbs have a "step down" or notch in the carb body where the bowl retainer fits into the body. The diagram shows a straight edge on the body. Is the measurement taken from the bottom of the step or the higher part of the body?

[WintrSol]

The service manual should show a float height gauge, with the proper cutouts so it can span the carb body, and lift the float to the correct height. I made one from a sheet of stainless, thin enough to cut with scissors, and made sure the measurement is correct. Don't need to take the carb off the bike, just remove the bowl and then use the gauge to hold the float. Turn the fuel valve on - if it leaks more than a drip, the valve needs setting higher; if it doesn't flow at all, I carefully lower the float until it does, and reset the valve lower if needed.
This tool should fit onto the seating surface on the body, not on the edges that keep the bowl centered.