Cerakote Trial… colors?

[tomeben]

Interesting opportunity I have…
My police officer son-in-law, who is an accomplished gunsmith, has decided to add Cerakote to his repertoire. And he wants stuff to practice with; huh, what, seriously???
I have a spare right and left engine cover, purchased to add a tachometer cable and drive on the right side, he said would be great to practice on… but what color?

To those of you that have had engine cases or parts Cerakoted; do you know or remember what color you chose? What matches the aluminum engine best? They have a dozen or more silver colors. Anything I should watch out for besides covering bolt threads, and the like? Thanks in advance for any answers, comments, suggestions! Cheers.


Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[LongDistanceRider]

This is Satin Aluminum https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerako...satin-aluminum
The starter and cover are original paint, center case is CeraKote. It's a shade or 2 lighter
RIMG0376.jpg

Here's with a dirty engine behind it.
RIMG0414.jpg

I don't know which Black will work best. Need to match and original with a color swatch. I may have a case cover I can send you, have to look first.

[tomeben]

The Satin Aluminum looks very close from your photos; I can see the difference, but I don’t need an exact match. I doubt I would even be considering this without his offer/request for parts. I was looking at the Satin and Shimmer aluminums, Shimmer looks even lighter.
I won’t need a black for now (unless I misunderstood), I’ll leave the alternator and clutch covers silver. And if I ever got as far as having the engine done, I’d use the same Satin to match the covers. Thanks, Jim!


Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[Ribrickulous]

I used Satin Aluminum also.

When I got mine back there were little pieces of plastic tape rolled into a cone and inserted into all the threads for not only the coating application but the surface prep also.

You’ll want to avoid coating where the main battery ground jumper lands, as well as where the starter motor fixes to the case.


-Ed
1972 CL350

[tomeben]

I used Satin Aluminum also.

When I got mine back there were little pieces of plastic tape rolled into a cone and inserted into all the threads for not only the coating application but the surface prep also.

Good news, thanks, Ed!
I’m only having these (side) covers done for now, so there won’t be any electrical connections. But there are a few threads to watch out for.


And the original set is still on the bike, in case I don’t like the Cerakote, or I get bit by the polishing bug.



Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[tomeben]

And while I’m here…
This is the inside of the right cover, with the clutch arm/rod (?), and tach drive, circled. Are there any tricks to removing both of these so I can reuse them? Is it suggested to tape off the inside (engine side) of the covers since it doesn’t make sense to coat the inside surfaces? Thanks, again!



Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[ancientdad]

I thought about those things myself earlier but since I've never worked on one of them, Jim will have to help you on this one. There's always this picture to show the parts involved, looks like a circlip holds the clutch arm shaft together and I'm guessing the seal holds the tach drive shaft in place like the other engines previously.

honda-cm450e-1982-c-usa-right-crankcase-cover-cm450ec_bighu0184e0c06_e00b.jpg

[tomeben]

There's always this picture to show the parts involved, looks like a circlip holds the clutch arm shaft together and I'm guessing the seal holds the tach drive shaft in place like the other engines previously.

Thanks, Tom. I could have mentioned I’d checked that to save you the trouble, but I appreciate you posting it. I can see the circlip on the end of the arm, so that “should” be straightforward. Thought I should make sure before I go digging the seal out on the drive gear - yes, it appears that’s all that is holding it.
I have a new tach drive seal, I didn’t think about one for the arm.


Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[LongDistanceRider]

Yeah, the clutch lever is just the circlip and O-rings for seals. Tach is just the oil seal.
In particular you don't want the CeraKote to be in the lever bores or the bore for the clutch lifter. Same for the tach, nothing in the actual bores. It's not a thick coating but thick enough to cause reassembly problems.

[tomeben]

Tach is just the oil seal.

Pry out the seal from the (top) outside, or will it pop out if I lever the gear from the bottom, gear-end, on the inside?


Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[LongDistanceRider]

IIRC, it's been years since I did one, I pushed it out using the tach drive.

[tomeben]

IIRC, it's been years since I did one, I pushed it out using the tach drive.

Thanks, Jim, that’s how it appears it would come out. We’ll know soon enough.


Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[tomeben]

Tachometer drive simply pushes out from inside the cover, I used a small screwdriver and levered it out - stiff at first, but eventually the seal slid out and with it the drive gear. Note the teeny-tiny washer on the bottom end.




The clutch lifter slides right out once the circlip at the bottom end is removed.
I’ll post after photos, dropping off the covers tomorrow.


Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[Richard Pitman]

What exactly does the Cerakote process involve ?

I'm assuming that the parts are scrupulously cleaned first of all, then what ?

Sprayed with the coating, then baked on ? But if it was that simple, we'd all be doing it …..

[tomeben]

What exactly does the Cerakote process involve ?

As I understand, Richard, it’s similar to what you described, and to powder coating. Cerakote is a ceramic based coating, but that’s all I know other than the photos I’ve seen here from others who have had it done.
I imagine the proper equipment is cost prohibitive for most, such as a proper paint booth vs. rattle cans.

https://www.cerakote.com/


Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[tomeben]

Training Manual:
https://images.nicindustries.com/cer...605.1632066091
When discussing colors, my son-in-law said most colors of the H-Series he’s using are $35 for a 4oz. bottle, plenty for both side covers.

Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[Richard Pitman]

Interesting. Results probably vary according to skill of person applying it. I had quite an expensive job done on my CL pipes, and to be honest, I was less than impressed with the results. The coating was not as tough as I'd expected and could be scratched off without too much effort. Pipes were quite rusty, so I expect most of the cost was involved in the surface preparation. Finished items were nothing like the glossy items displayed on various Cerakote(rs) websites.

I am actually probably going to give the pipes a coat of VHT paint, probably would have been the easiest option in the first place.

Pic below shows one of my Cerakoted headers against a chromed set.

[Ribrickulous]

Like anything, I think the surface prep and the bake are what are key for Cerakote.

The vendor I had to mine said all parts are sand (bead, something) blasted, dipped in a hot tank for degreasing, followed by being gassed out per cerakoted specs, then cerakoted, then gassed out again at I think 300degf?

I had some issues when I put mine in an ultrasonic, so I’m not totally clear what happened, but it matches what’s on cerakote’s website.

Nothing you *couldnt* do at home provided you had a clean way to bake the parts, but probably doesn’t make sense to invest in the parts if you don’t have the setup.


-Ed
1972 CL350

[tomeben]

I’m “donating” the covers for practice, but I do hope they turn out well. At least as nice as I may be able to do with paint, or polishing. I doubt I’d be paying to have them coated if it weren’t for the offer.
The other side of this is I’ll have to do something with the rest of the engine, carb bodies, and exhaust headers!


Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[tomeben]

Obviously not perfect since I did very limited surface prep, but I think they look pretty good? I’ve seen so many shiny bits on here from all of the other bikes pics posted, that I can’t decide if I’ll like the dull finish once they’re on the bike. Work in progress as they say…


Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[Juneaudave]

Tom....I think those look pretty nice to my un-calibrated eye!

[Ribrickulous]

That looks great.

I filled in the low areas on my stator cover with black gloss caliper paint.

Just use some brake cleaner to wipe off the high spots and then bake it on.

Don’t try and cut tape around the letters, it’ll score the cerakote.

Tape off the bulk area and spray away.


-Ed
1972 CL350

[Ribrickulous]

One other thing - I can’t tell what you intend to do with the carb bodies, but I would advise against cerakote.

Too much opportunity for overspray into a critical location, AND you’ll need to what the workpiece significantly, which can provide an opportunity for one of the many pressed brass plugs and/or air jets to either crack or pop free.

I’ve seen people vapor hone carbs with great success.


-Ed
1972 CL350

[LongDistanceRider]

Covers look great.
As for carb bodies? They can be done IF they are assembled and the inlet/outlet are completely sealed off. Masking is not the same as sealing. Also the float bowl vent will need to be masked so it doesn't get plugged up.

[tomeben]

Covers look great.
As for carb bodies? They can be done IF they are assembled and the inlet/outlet are completely sealed off. Masking is not the same as sealing. Also the float bowl vent will need to be masked so it doesn't get plugged up.

Thanks, Jim… I’ll be leaving well enough alone on the carb bodies for now (for a while); they are clean and working well enough I don’t plan to touch them if I don’t have to. Once the covers go on, I’ll just wish they were as clean! But someday…

I’ve seen people vapor hone carbs with great success.

If I did have the carbs coated, I’d find a spare set first. The vapor blast/hone idea sounds better.

That looks great.
I filled in the low areas on my stator cover with black gloss caliper paint.

Thanks, Ed… I’m going to leave them alone for now, but I appreciate the paint/masking/knife info for future reference.

Tom....I think those look pretty nice to my un-calibrated eye!

I do, too, Dave… just a few surface flaws in the covers. I’m very happy with the coating for a first attempt on anything larger than a few cups and mugs he’s done.


Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA

[ancientdad]

Tom, I like the look of the covers, they look great as they are. I agree that a little black accent for the letters would finish them off, but the finish and color tone is excellent for our bikes. I'd have done it over the oyster silver I have on my outer covers (plus I wouldn't have to worry about fuel eating the paint off either).

[tomeben]

Tom, I like the look of the covers, they look great as they are. I agree that a little black accent for the letters would finish them off, but the finish and color tone is excellent for our bikes. I'd have done it over the oyster silver I have on my outer covers (plus I wouldn't have to worry about fuel eating the paint off either).

Thanks, Tom… black on the recess with silver Honda letters, or black Honda letters, will nitpick at me I’m sure, so nothing for now. I’ll likely be building a list of other parts to coat!


Tom - 1982 CM450E / Midwest USA