If you have a long, skinny magnetic "grabber" you might reach inside the transmission mainshaft to see if the nimrod PO did put the ball bearing inside the engine when he put the clutch rod in backwards.
If you have a long, skinny magnetic "grabber" you might reach inside the transmission mainshaft to see if the nimrod PO did put the ball bearing inside the engine when he put the clutch rod in backwards.
If it was Me, I would pull the left side cover, and peek behind the clutch lifter (part #11,https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partsl...hleft-crankcase-cover_bighu0093e8s06_ee33.gif ) just to make sure the ball wasn't behind it. About a 20 minute job if you don't tear the gasket. Or you could just lay the whole works, right side down, on the floor and see if it will just fall out on it's own.
Have you been inside the left side case cover and manually separated/cleaned/re-oiled the clutch plates?
After "just sitting" for a long time, the oil on the plates dries and "glues" them together so the clutch can't disengage even with the lever pulled.....
As shown in the picture, that clutch cable is adjusted too tight. To get the best leverage(easiest pull) the clutch release arm and the cable should form a 90 degree angle when the clutch lever is pulled back the the handle bar. Put the cover back on after you loosen the cable adjustment, the clutch lever will now have a lot of free play, With you hand on the clutch lever, turn the adjuster clockwise until the free play is used up at the lever and snug the bolt to hold it. You make minor adjustments later in the cable to fine tune the desired freeplay. There's no point in having the trans in first gear, you will just be turning the back wheel with the kickstarter. With the trans in neutral, pull the clutch in and crank the kickstarter, you'll be able to tell when the clutch releases.No sir I haven't thus far. The bike did sit for a long time before it came back to life. The day I got it the clutch was slipping slightly at high torque when I rolled on the power. As I've done throughout this project Sixtysixsprint I'll follow your advice and tackle the left side now. I have studied on opening up the left side and cleaning the friction and steel disc. I just removed the right side again and can't see anything wrong that I've done. Thanks again Sir. View attachment 9740View attachment 9741
As shown in the picture, that clutch cable is adjusted too tight. To get the best leverage(easiest pull) the clutch release arm and the cable should form a 90 degree angle when the clutch lever is pulled back the the handle bar. Put the cover back on after you loosen the cable adjustment, the clutch lever will now have a lot of free play, With you hand on the clutch lever, turn the adjuster clockwise until the free play is used up at the lever and snug the bolt to hold it. You make minor adjustments later in the cable to fine tune the desired freeplay. There's no point in having the trans in first gear, you will just be turning the back wheel with the kickstarter. With the trans in neutral, pull the clutch in and crank the kickstarter, you'll be able to tell when the clutch releases.
You don't need the left side cover on to check the clutch release. With the cover you actually see the pressure lift while you pull the lever.Thanks Mike in Idaho. I'm getting very good at removing the R kick start cover so I'll get right on this, following you instructions. At the moment the L clutch side cover is off and cleaning disc. Once L side is reassembled I'll go through your steps to properly adjust the arm. Am I correct the 90 degree angle is achieved when the clutch lever is pulled back would be 9 o'clock or arm pointing to rear of bike?
You don't need the left side cover on to check the clutch release. With the cover you actually see the pressure lift while you pull the lever.