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1967 CL77 right side engine oil leak

If you have a long, skinny magnetic "grabber" you might reach inside the transmission mainshaft to see if the nimrod PO did put the ball bearing inside the engine when he put the clutch rod in backwards.
 
Good point, I will try to locate a magnetic "grabber" while I wait for parts. I decided to take my time, ordered the ball bearing from David Silver. Should be here in a few days, this way I know for sure I have the correct part.
If you have a long, skinny magnetic "grabber" you might reach inside the transmission mainshaft to see if the nimrod PO did put the ball bearing inside the engine when he put the clutch rod in backwards.
 
Good recommendation. I already removed the foot peg bracket assembly. I have new stainless hex head bolts I plan to replace the old ones with, so I'll give this a shot. Thanks very much Mike in Idaho.
If it was Me, I would pull the left side cover, and peek behind the clutch lifter (part #11,https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partsl...hleft-crankcase-cover_bighu0093e8s06_ee33.gif ) just to make sure the ball wasn't behind it. About a 20 minute job if you don't tear the gasket. Or you could just lay the whole works, right side down, on the floor and see if it will just fall out on it's own.
 
IMG_1293.jpgOil seals delivered today. All 4 seals worked great. My fear about the countershaft/sprocket shaft was resolved when I removed the old OE seal and inserted the new one. No problems at all. Made a good tight seal.
 

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The last part came in today. The ball bearing that goes inside Clutch Adjuster. I began reassembling 1st with drive sprocket and chain. I inserted the #10 steel ball bearing in into the clutch adjuster assembly mounted inside R engine cover. I connected the clutch cable, Rotated the kick start lever onto splines and it slipped right back into place. Once it was completely reinstalled I decided to see if the clutch was properly adjusted. The bike is on a MC floor jack and my fuel tank is being painted. So I clicked the bike into 1st gear, pulled the clutch in and with my foot I attempted to spin the rear wheel. It would not spin at all. As I hand cranked the kick lever down I noticed the rear wheel spinning slowly matching the kick lever action. I then loosened the retaining bolt to the outside engine cover adjustment assembly and turned the large flat type screw adjuster clockwise about 1/4 turn. I turned it far enough to the point I was not able to pull the clutch lever all the way in. I backed the large screw adjuster out to the point I could engage the clutch again. Still the rear wheel turns with the kick lever action even with my foot trying to hold the wheel in place. I don't mind taking the right side cover off again but I don't know what to look for. I am certain I installed everything properly including the clutch push rod with the rounded being inserted into the clutch assembly thus the flat end making contact with the new ball bearing inside the clutch adjuster.
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Have you been inside the left side case cover and manually separated/cleaned/re-oiled the clutch plates?
After "just sitting" for a long time, the oil on the plates dries and "glues" them together so the clutch can't disengage even with the lever pulled.....
 
No sir I haven't thus far. The bike did sit for a long time before it came back to life. The day I got it the clutch was slipping slightly at high torque when I rolled on the power. As I've done throughout this project Sixtysixsprint I'll follow your advice and tackle the left side now. I have studied on opening up the left side and cleaning the friction and steel disc. I just removed the right side again and can't see anything wrong that I've done. Thanks again Sir. IMG_1309.jpgIMG_1310.jpg
Have you been inside the left side case cover and manually separated/cleaned/re-oiled the clutch plates?
After "just sitting" for a long time, the oil on the plates dries and "glues" them together so the clutch can't disengage even with the lever pulled.....
 
I have reviewed the pdf Shop Manuel and parts for the CL77. I also watched a detailed video on Ytube of a guy removing L side cover to replace clutch friction disc. When he removed the cover he left Filter Cover intact. In doing so the oil pump filter and shaft remained attached to engine. When I removed my L side cover I followed the above steps. However, when my cover came off the oil pump shaft and filter came out with the side cover. The oil pump chain came off the filter sprocket. I see # 24 Pin, Filter Shaft Stopper in parts pdf. Question, how do I remove the oil pump shaft from the Filter Cover? Does the shaft rotate at its attachment place in the cover to the point the (pin) reaches the opening and can be pulled out?
I'm stopping at this point as its passed 2:00 AM here.

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Oil pump / filter. See photos of current positions. Clutch; 6 of the clutch disc were stuck together. Using a thin flat blade I was able to separate all without damaging any. I then began to remove the clutch outer plate. Note photo with my finger pointing at 10mm Hex Head bolt. I was finger tight. I was able to remove without a wrench. All other bolts were almost as bad. They were not set tightly. I disassembled all noting the friction disc are colored BLACK. Does this mean they are burned/ unusable? The steel plates/disc are slick. Can I wash these parts with brake cleaner, let dry and scuff them with sandpaper and reuse or should I replace all? Note, before I removed outer clutch plate I did tighten the 4, 10mm bolts and operated the clutch lever which was now very hard to depress/operate. Not sure about this issue. Is it time now to readjust the clutch cable on hand lever & R side cover?

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No sir I haven't thus far. The bike did sit for a long time before it came back to life. The day I got it the clutch was slipping slightly at high torque when I rolled on the power. As I've done throughout this project Sixtysixsprint I'll follow your advice and tackle the left side now. I have studied on opening up the left side and cleaning the friction and steel disc. I just removed the right side again and can't see anything wrong that I've done. Thanks again Sir. View attachment 9740View attachment 9741
As shown in the picture, that clutch cable is adjusted too tight. To get the best leverage(easiest pull) the clutch release arm and the cable should form a 90 degree angle when the clutch lever is pulled back the the handle bar. Put the cover back on after you loosen the cable adjustment, the clutch lever will now have a lot of free play, With you hand on the clutch lever, turn the adjuster clockwise until the free play is used up at the lever and snug the bolt to hold it. You make minor adjustments later in the cable to fine tune the desired freeplay. There's no point in having the trans in first gear, you will just be turning the back wheel with the kickstarter. With the trans in neutral, pull the clutch in and crank the kickstarter, you'll be able to tell when the clutch releases.
 
Thanks Mike in Idaho. I'm getting very good at removing the R kick start cover so I'll get right on this, following you instructions. At the moment the L clutch side cover is off and cleaning disc. Once L side is reassembled I'll go through your steps to properly adjust the arm. Am I correct the 90 degree angle is achieved when the clutch lever is pulled back would be 9 o'clock or arm pointing to rear of bike?
As shown in the picture, that clutch cable is adjusted too tight. To get the best leverage(easiest pull) the clutch release arm and the cable should form a 90 degree angle when the clutch lever is pulled back the the handle bar. Put the cover back on after you loosen the cable adjustment, the clutch lever will now have a lot of free play, With you hand on the clutch lever, turn the adjuster clockwise until the free play is used up at the lever and snug the bolt to hold it. You make minor adjustments later in the cable to fine tune the desired freeplay. There's no point in having the trans in first gear, you will just be turning the back wheel with the kickstarter. With the trans in neutral, pull the clutch in and crank the kickstarter, you'll be able to tell when the clutch releases.
 
Mike is correct...... Put slack in the cable first so the spring on the arm just barely has any tension expansion ( Spring fully retracted).....
 
Thanks Mike in Idaho. I'm getting very good at removing the R kick start cover so I'll get right on this, following you instructions. At the moment the L clutch side cover is off and cleaning disc. Once L side is reassembled I'll go through your steps to properly adjust the arm. Am I correct the 90 degree angle is achieved when the clutch lever is pulled back would be 9 o'clock or arm pointing to rear of bike?
You don't need the left side cover on to check the clutch release. With the cover you actually see the pressure lift while you pull the lever.
 
Ok. Sorry for being a slow learner. Can I leave the R Side kick starter cover on and make the adjustment externally by loosing the retaining bolt that holds the clutch adjuster? Or remove it, release cable tension on hand lever and lower cable adjuster, turn the large flat slotted adjuster so it rest at around 7 O'clock, pull the hand lever and watch the adjuster arm. If necessary rotate the clutch adjuster so the arm reaches 90 degrees or 9 O'clock??
You don't need the left side cover on to check the clutch release. With the cover you actually see the pressure lift while you pull the lever.
 
Clutch disc's are cleaned and reinstalled, oil filter, shaft and outer cover installed. R Side clutch adjusted per Mike in Idaho and works well while on floor jack. I may have to tweak once its ready to fire up. Thanks again SixtysixSprint. Much respect for all you guys who've advised me.
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