• Don't overlook our Welcome Package, it contains many links to important and helpful information about functions at VHT like posting pictures and sending PMs (private messages), as well as finding the parts you need.

    AD

Swingarm bushings - CM450E

ancientdad

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 22, 2020
Total Posts
24,364
Total likes
2,461
Location
Nature Coast, FL
Portions of this thread were moved here from another thread in which the discussion got started.

(I should do swingarm bushings, too…)

Only if it needs them and that's easily checked by grabbing the rear wheel and trying to move it side to side. Remember, they only move up and down about 30° or so and unless totally rusty and never lubed once (or holeshots/drag strip activity done with it regularly) they usually don't wear badly, but that depends on what material your bike's version was made of and the conditions under which the bike was maintained and stored have a lot to do with it as well. If you do replace them, see if bronze bushings are available for it. I put them in my 450 but the DOHC 450 came with a fibrous type of bushing well known for wearing easily and getting brittle and crumbling with age.
 
Last edited:
Front wheel rubbing on something

Only if it needs them and that's easily checked by grabbing the rear wheel and trying to move it side to side. Remember, they only move up and down about 30° or so and unless totally rusty and never lubed once (or holeshots/drag strip activity done with it regularly) they usually don't wear badly, but that depends on what material your bike's version was made of and the conditions under which the bike was maintained and stored have a lot to do with it as well. If you do replace them, see if bronze bushings are available for it. I put them in my 450 but the DOHC 450 came with a fibrous type of bushing well known for wearing easily and getting brittle and crumbling with age.

Thanks for the swing arm bushing info, AD!
Feel free to move this if necessary, unless Randall doesn’t mind we’ve wandered from the front wheel, besides his mention of rear bearings. Randall? Anyone? Randall… ? [emoji846]

Can this be checked with the wheel off, by trying to move the arms on either side?
Previous maintenance I have no idea. 13k original on the bike. Grease zerks are frozen, and I have replacements.
If no movement, and it takes grease, that should be sufficient? No worries about old, hardened grease in there?

EDIT: Forgot this… I don’t know what material was used for the original swing arm bushing, but they are still available. Couldn’t tell from the partzilla photo. I’m sure LDR knows.
As far as bronze bushings, is this guy verified:

Hello to you all!
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...hread.php?t=3522&share_type=t&link_source=app
I just found where LDR linked him, so I guess he is. [emoji1303]

Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
Can this be checked with the wheel off, by trying to move the arms on either side?
Previous maintenance I have no idea. 13k original on the bike. Grease zerks are frozen, and I have replacements.
If no movement, and it takes grease, that should be sufficient? No worries about old, hardened grease in there?

Best checked with the wheel in place for the added leverage, and old hard grease is a consideration. The new member is a vendor and yes, he makes very good quality swingarm bushings. Let's start a new thread for any further swingarm discussion.
 
More maintenance, more questions…

Once I reinstall my rear wheel I will check for free play in the bushings.


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
The swing arm needs to be removed in any case to clean out the 40+ year old dry grease and the grease fittings are completely plugged up with old dry grease. New modern grease fitting are easy to install, just run the appropriate tap in the hole and screw them in.
 
Thanks, LDR!
My fittings are in fact plugged, and I have replacements.
With a clean-out and new grease, the bushings should be okay given I don’t find any damage, or obvious wear, as AD mentioned?


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
The wear patterns I've seen to date have been on the collars not the bushings. So if the collars are good then likely the bushings are as well. But reassemble and check.
 
Here we go with another first... swingarm removed!
All of the caps fell right off, and I was able to remove the bushings by tapping very lightly on a 14mm socket. The grease fittings holes are already threaded, and I didn't find any globs of hardened grease. In fact there is still some grease between the collars inside the arm, mostly on the left side.
Do I need to remove the collars, and if so, how? If not, am I good to clean, grease with new fittings, and reassemble? Are the end caps reusable?

IMG_0999.jpgIMG_0992.jpgIMG_0993.jpgIMG_0994.jpgIMG_0996.jpgIMG_1002.jpgIMG_1003.jpg

As always, thank you!
 
Those steel "tubes" ARE the collars, the bushings are plastic.....
It does not APPEAR that they need replaced, but collar OD and bush ID should be measured and verified within spec....
End caps are reusable if the seal lips are not damaged (wipe clean and re-grease).....
Nothing actually rotates directly on the "pivot" bolt, so remove rust/corrosion and wipe a grease film on it during reinstall to prevent further rusting.......

Looks like you can simply thread in new zerks and reassemble and grease.....
 
Those steel "tubes" ARE the collars, the bushings are plastic.....
It does not APPEAR that they need replaced, but collar OD and bush ID should be measured and verified within spec....

Aa-ha, I have my terminology backwards. I’ll check the FSM for specs and measure. Is it safe to assume I should not attempt to remove the plastic bushings, are they easily damaged? It would be simpler to clean with them removed, but I can measure, and make do if it’s best to leave them be.
Thanks for the info, Steve.


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
Aa-ha, I have my terminology backwards. I’ll check the FSM for specs and measure. Is it safe to assume I should not attempt to remove the plastic bushings, are they easily damaged? It would be simpler to clean with them removed, but I can measure, and make do if it’s best to leave them be.
Thanks for the info, Steve.


Tom - 1982 CM450E

Tom, the bushes would likely be destroyed by removal, and since you had to "encourage" the collars out, presumably you are good to reassemble....
But it never hurts to verify with measurements......
 
Tom, the bushes would likely be destroyed by removal, and since you had to "encourage" the collars out, presumably you are good to reassemble....
But it never hurts to verify with measurements......

Thanks, again… I haven’t been able to find any specs or service limits for the bushings/collars, so I’ll check that the ID/OD’s are all close to the same measurement. There was no discernible play on the bench, it will be a little while until I have the rear wheel back on and can check again.
Glad I didn’t bang on the bushings, it had crossed my mind before I stopped and asked first!
Bob at CBX Performance isn’t making this set in brass, although Honda has used this bushing in many bikes, as late as 2014 in the CMX Rebel, so they are still available.


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
This is more applicable to my upcoming rear shock replacement, but while I have the swingarm removed… are the lower shock bushings simply driven out/in for replacement, similar to a wheel bearing? Thanks!


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
I assume they are the same as (or very similar) the ones I replaced in my DOHC 450 swingarm, which I drove out and pressed the new ones in using a bolt and large flat washers
 
Got the swingarm all cleaned up - the pivot bolt, collars, end caps, chain slide; and the new grease fittings installed.
swingarm clean.jpg

I also removed the old shock bushings; next time I'll find someone with a press, mine did not want to budge. I hope the bolt and washers pull the new ones in a lot easier than the old came out. Made this puller, and still fought with them. One came out with more force than I expected, 1/4" cordless impact. I switched to 14mm and 1" sockets for the second attempt to be sure I had room, and before it was over I had the 1/2" impact on it. Popped it just free enough before the threads stripped. Probably I should have added a smidgen or two of heat.
puller.JPG
 
I’m happy to report the new rear shock bushings went in easily by hand with a 3/8” bolt and two fender washers. Pics have to wait until I’m at the laptop, Tapatalk apparently has a monthly photo upload limit.
Everything is reassembled and ready to go back on the bike (had to quit for dinner again), even a new cotter pin in the brake torque link which I realigned per LDR’s suggestion in case I have larger rear tire clearance issues. I don’t want to have to take the swingarm back off if I don’t have to.
44b179d10cb51726c06148f5a501ff4f.jpg



Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
In case you need extra rear end side clearance, this is much easier to do while the swingarm is removed:
I now have a 130/90-16 rear tire and it rubs on the brake stay arm (torque link).
AS SUGGESTED by LDR:
Move the brake stay (torque link) outboard, direction of the blue arrow.
Fill the now empty space (green arrow) between the ears with a spacer, as mentioned above. Two M10 flat washers work great.
962b6ef9e63b98cc997e916ce5cb6e80.jpg



Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
Back
Top Bottom