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(Not so) Budget drag bike project - DOHC 450, of course

ancientdad

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I hesitated to start this thread so early at a previous location as I suspected it could span a ridiculous amount of time... but I was afforded such a great start to this effort that I wanted to make mention of things. During our awesome, circuitous trip through the Carolinas culminating in the Meltdown Vintage show weekend in April 2019, VHT member 12ozPBR and I cooked up a nice deal for both of us - I had some trading material and he graciously sourced some parts I'd been unable to afford previously and had lost hope that I'd be able to accumulate for my second 450 project (this is why I live in t-shirts and blue jeans, eat at home from my wife's kitchen almost always and rarely vacation anywhere (y) ). The trip was both enjoyable and fruitful, and as a result I'm now the owner of my long-sought-after 4 speed bottom end, almost entirely complete, and a good used CB450K6 frame with no title which is immaterial to my plans. Oh, and one bonus in the deal... an excellent, hand-crafted engine stand for all my future 450 rebuilds courtesy of one of the nicest guys in SC. He donated his to me and plans to build another one for himself, that's the kind of quality individual he is.

So the lift is now occupied with the start of the next adventure... and a trip to a local bike salvage netted 2 free bikes after he had parted out what he wanted ("they're free, just don't bring them back"), a CM250C and a CB650C, from which a small front end and the other running gear missing from the minimums it will need to be a roller, and then the disassembly of at least one of my two spare engines to scavenge additional parts for the top end. This will give me the opportunity to finally use the bigger cams I got from Terry Naughtin and did not use on the red bike (.414" lift, 280° duration) and go total loss on the ignition, along with more of the same or better that was done to my street-legal bike. SO looking forward to getting this started...

The little red monster will undoubtedly be giving this pile the stinkeye as it watches the slow progress... and it will be slow (unless some magic cash windfall comes my way)

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Spreading things out a little to take stock of what is there and what will need to be acquired to complete the picture. The simplicity of the 4 speed trans, with only one detent roller to deal with... and the 4 speed crankshaft with its cast outer races with tabs on them to bolt to the upper case, very different than the 5 speed engines.

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And those oddly-tapered o-rings that seal the oiling orifices for each main bearing, hard to find but I managed to.

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Got started on the frame about this time last year, beginning with the hideous add-on sidestand bracket that someone undoubtedly stick-welded on it long ago, a big heavy pile of weld there.

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And the carnage all over the floor (but not the red bike, I covered it)

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Seat lock bracket, seat hinge pivot points, helmet holders all gone

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Such good reading!
will this be happening parallel with the patina 350?
 
Nah, not enough room for that unfortunately. The 350 will probably be next year, maybe late next year unless I can pick up speed on the drag bike. Which is partly money-related... isn't it always? And, it doesn't help that Russ, my machinist, lives on a piece of property with a modest creek on it that you have to cross only about 300-400 feet inside his gate, and he's in the middle of rebuilding the 50 year old bridge across it. $25,000 worth of materials and he's doing the labor.
 
Got a lead on getting a free bike or two from an eBay seller not far from me in Spring Hill FL through a local riding buddy I met at the Speedway station a few years back. Fine Brothers Cycle parts out older bikes and sells the popular stuff, and he was clearing out some of the older bikes he was done with. As I mentioned in the first post above, he gave me these two and said take whatever you want but don't bring them back. If only I'd known a few days earlier before I wasted some cash at the rustyard not far from me for stuff I ended up not using. This stuff was in much better condition. Some top end engine parts from the CM250C came in handy later in another deal...

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I'm using the front end from the 250 and the swingarm and rear wheel from the 650.

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Scavenged the parts I wanted from both bikes and rolled the carcasses around to the back of the garage... right across the fence, the guy behind me already has a small car junkyard with at least 6 or 7 vehicles sitting a couple hundred feet from his garage in the woods, so my 2 bikes won't be an issue (of course, he doesn't live in our development either, he owns the property along the front of the north side so he's exempt from any rules and regs). Part of me feels bad about them being out in the rain and weather, but I'm done with them and can't store them with the rear end off the one and the front end off the other so they're sitting on their centerstands where I can't see them and none of my neighbors can either - such as they are, a few acre lots away.

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On to the planning for utilizing these parts. I got the bright idea that if the 360 swingarm would add about 2" of wheelbase, maybe the 650 swingarm would be even better at roughly 3.5" to 4" longer. So, I clamped them together in the vise to compare

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The 650 swingarm just gives the look of beefy for this use, and I'm going to do what I can to take advantage of it. There's also the issue of the significantly larger diameter pivot bolt too...

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(and lookie there, it's my 47 year old Vessel t-handle on the bench, a little worse for the wear over the decades)

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I've always wanted a Bomber... now I have one - well, the engine at least. Well, the bottom end of the engine, at least. :ROFLMAO:
 
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My machinist Russ suffered a knee injury right after I dropped off my frame, both swingarms and engine cases for him to get started on last summer. It took him a couple months to get back on his feet (wife's orders) but he was finally back to almost 100% late last October so we spent 5 hours or so on various things. First, he made spacers for the width difference between the wider 4 speed front motor mount area on the bottom end and the 5 speed frame lugs, then we turned to fitting the swingarm.

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Then he set out to make bushings to adapt the larger pivot size of the 650 swingarm to the smaller pivot bolt of the 450. This is where the fun (watching) starts. A stick of Delrin, a few measurements, a little programming on the lathe...

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Then on to making the struts. I had cut the clevises from the 650 rear shocks and Russ turned 2 pieces of steel tubing to fit over the upper post mounts on the frame, then cut sections of steel tube to weld to the ends.

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Make that beautifully weld the ends.

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Back home where there are only non-precision (and some prehistoric) hand tools, the rear of the frame coming together. I set an empty bottom end in place with only the countershaft in it so I could start looking at chain alignment

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Then on to the adapters for the AllBalls steering head bearings to allow the use of the complete CM250C front end on the CB450 frame. More fun watching a master at work. First, the calculations

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and the finished product

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is that a square head clausing / colchester lathe? sweet! i want one.

nice work!
 
Before I left his shop that day I had him mill the tops of the handlebar mounts down a bit so they wouldn't stick up as high but I'd still have the threaded holes there if I needed to use them. Once I got the top bridge home I decided to remove the black paint, so I used paint remover for most of it and lightly wire-brushed it to get the rest along with a slightly "burnished" finish

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I used the PVC pipe method to "shorten" the forks by cutting 2 sections of pipe to fit over the damper rods and take up some excess upper tube length internally. While it limits the travel of the forks, I ended up with about 2.5" of travel when the fork length is right for the bike height, which will be adequate for the drag strip and allows the tubes to be flush with the top bridge so it looks better too.

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So then it was time to improve the appearance a bit. Lots of corrosion on the lower legs and hub, and the brake backing plate as well. A little wire-brushing and hammer-silver paint, much better.

From this

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To this

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Back to the crusty, rusty frame. I called around to get prices for blasting the frame as it looked like a lot more than I wanted to deal with... but these people don't realize this is a budget drag bike project. One estimate was $250 per hour and he would waive the 3 hour minimum if I brought it to where he was already blasting something else (mobile). Right. So I set out to do as much as I could myself. A long, tiring effort but good enough for what it's going to be.

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Enough. Time to blow off the dust and squirt some paint on it.

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Looks good! If you have a compressor you can get cheap blasting kits at Harbor Freight. They do make a horrible mess, but are way less expensive that $250/hr. I got one to repair my truck frame, and set out a tarp.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The cheap Chinese clip-ons came in after over a month of waiting (little did we know about the months of Covid-19 going on over there before they admitted it to the world, and this was in mid-December). Not bad for $41 shipped, and I didn't get sick too

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Nice thread, but why did you want a 4-speed instead of a 5-speed bottom end ?

From my previous experience with both 5 speed and 4 speed bottom ends at the drag strip. The ratios in the higher gears are the reason. The wider gap between 1st and 2nd in the 4 speed is far more easily overcome when the bike is going slower and the overall gearing is still lower. The narrower gap between 3rd and 4th in the 4 speed works better at the far end of the track when the speed is higher, overall gear ratio is higher and the wind resistance is greater, and is more easily overcome than the wider gap between both 3rd and 4th, as well as 4th and 5th, in the 5 speed

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Forks painted and mocked-up on the frame with the front wheel, clip-ons installed

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Picking back up with the last visit to Russ' shop, the next project was the gas tank. He alluded to working on something for it that he knew I'd like, and he kinda gave me a hint when he said I'd need to order some "Moon Eyes"...

It started with these - he cut the bottoms off a pair of old-school paint gun cups

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And with some fine craftsmanship and superior aluminum welding, ended up like this

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He had me stop at the speed shop on the way there to pick up a gas cap he ordered for the tank

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And proceeded to cut the hole for it and weld the threaded filler neck in

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And then he welded some mounting tabs on it

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Then he cut a couple holes in the frame backbone tube, turned down a couple of steel inserts, threaded them for mounting bolts and then welded them into the frame to mount the tank. Okay, so I don't have a picture of them welded in... but the welds look as good as his aluminum welds, of course (y)

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Made a trip down to DCC in East Tampa not too long after that to spend some more money (read: blowing up the budget further) but for necessities like a breather tube (extra long from an XS650), a set of grips, Dyna-clone coils and the priciest piece, a seat pad to use on the aluminum base that Russ will bend up for me later on after his bridge repair is done.

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Got the levers and perches in the mail and put them on. Of course, had to run a tap through the adjuster threads so they would actually turn with something less than pliers.

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With the engine parts to be next on the rack, the frame and front end were banished to the corner of the garage

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Yeah, his work is stellar. Can't wait to get back out to his shop again, still more left to do before it's all on me.
 
Finally, after a bridge replacement on Russ's property (yes, his property has a small creek running parallel to the street about a couple hundred feet inside his gate, previously with a 50 year old wooden bridge over it) and the holidays with lots of relatives over taking up much of his time during the last part of 2020, it was again my turn to visit for a day and try to get my remaining needs done that I couldn't accomplish myself (at least to the quality level I want, or the machinist stuff that I simply can't do for obvious reasons). First project, fitting the exhaust cam bearing journal to the second cam bearing Russ put a bronze bushing in for me previously. Not much to see here, he chucked the cam up in the lathe and slightly reduced the left exhaust bearing journal size down to stock size as it had apparently been previously repaired and was slightly oversized, even a new stock bearing cap wouldn't quite fit on it. I sent the set of cams to Terry Naughtin to get a bigger grind done right before Terry retired and I was unaware that the exhaust core had been repaired, never tried it on a cam bearing until I got them back. A lot can happen in almost 50 years.

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Then on to the drive flange on the 650 rear wheel. I have two of them so I decided to have Russ machine the width of the sprocket off the mounting area to help line up with the front sprocket since the CB650C swingarm and wheel are wider than the 450 parts. Russ initially hesitated with concerns about thickness and durability if he removed that much material, but since I have a second one I chose to take the chance and honestly, I don't think it will be an issue since it's a lot beefier than the stock 450 hub with the much bigger 4 cylinder engine driving it.

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Next up was the seat base. I wasn't able to get pics of the entire process since I was helping him work his sheet metal rollers and they were well-coated with what seemed like cosmoline. The cutting and shaping began with a curve rolled into it afterward. It's a whole new world unfamiliar to me with him using a free-standing punch and heavy-duty cutter to shape the corners of the aluminum for the curves and bends he planned, then using his big brake to bend those spots. With the back angle bend almost 180°, the aluminum cracked across the top edge so he welded it afterward, of course. As he says, "I have a glue machine"

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Then he made some insert nuts for the rear frame tubes to bolt up the back of the seat and of course he made them from scratch using steel bar stock and cut, trimmed, smoothed and tapped them on the lathe (1/4-20 though, no metric bolts in his shop), then welded them into the frame

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Most of the rest of the work on the bike is going to be done by me at this point, though I'm sending the head out to Schumann Motor Works soon. Oh, that reminds me... I have to amend the thread title. :rolleyes:
 
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some nice mods there! did you help him lift that rotary table onto his mill? Lol, just kidding. those things are HEAVY. great pics of your progress!
 
Thanks. No, he had already lifted it by the time I realized how heavy it must be, and I offered to help him but he did it himself. He's an amazing talent to watch work, wish he wasn't 70 miles from me. He's probably glad I'm not any closer :)

We stopped to look at the construction of his new bridge on the way out. I wish it hadn't been such a steep climb down big, loose rocks below it or I'd have taken some pictures of the excellent work he did with the 30 cross braces he welded up for in between the huge steel I-beams he sat on top of the 3 level concrete support pads on each side of the creek. He said it took 10 cement truck loads of concrete to build them with a ridiculous amount of rebar in them. Total cost of his bridge, $40,000
 
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Thanks for the photos of Russ’ impressive work. I always love to see the machining work done. Great to see some progress on the now not-so-budget drag bike (y) Funny how easily with a few decisions the all the best laid hopes and plans can fly out the window. I guess you can take comfort in the fact that you don’t need to put $40K in a bridge to get to your shop... YIKES! Hard for me to see the return on investment there.
 
Yikes! I bet Russ is glad the bridge is done also!

He is, he said it about killed him. He was sore and recovering from it for a couple months. He needed it to be strong enough for a fire truck to come across in case it was necessary at some point, and I have to say it reminds you of an interstate overpass construction when you look at the underside of it. I think he's safe if a fire truck ever has to cross it.
 
Thanks for the photos of Russ’ impressive work. I always love to see the machining work done. Great to see some progress on the now not-so-budget drag bike (y) Funny how easily with a few decisions the all the best laid hopes and plans can fly out the window. I guess you can take comfort in the fact that you don’t need to put $40K in a bridge to get to your shop... YIKES! Hard for me to see the return on investment there.

Well, he's 64 and if he has the longevity we all hope for, he'll be using that bridge for the next 15 to 20 years or more. I wish I had copies of the many pictures he showed me yesterday, the old bridge was so rotten in some places after 50 years that I'm surprised it didn't collapse.

Yes, he is a lot of fun to watch work. There was no motor drive on the rotary table for the mill, so he was hand cranking the rotation for about 10 minutes, a rarity among his machine tool use. He has a plan for virtually anything you run into in a given day, including when he picked out a sheet of aluminum for the seat base that was about a half inch too narrow. After he spent 10 minutes on the bandsaw getting the shape cut, he realized it was just short of the width necessary for one of the rear bolt holes... no problem, he fired up the "glue machine" and added some to the spot.

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Took the 900 off the lift to mock up the drag bike frame, seat and rear wheel with chain alignment this afternoon. If the drive flange holds up with the removal of the thickness of the rear sprocket from the mounting area - and with the bike's significantly lighter weight and lesser horsepower than the CB650C working with the stout design of the 650 rear wheel and drive setup, I believe it will - then things should be golden. Used a bungee cord to snug the chain up across the sprockets to get a look.

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Looks even better as a roller on the floor. This sits lower than my first version, and the wheelbase is now almost 57"

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I've been working on cleaning up the bottom end parts to get started on putting it together while I wait for the head from Schumann. Used paint remover on some really stubborn, baked on crud and (seemingly) clay on the lower case, but it barely touched it so out came the hand wire brush. Got as much of it off as possible and realized that you'd need to lie down to get a good look at anything that low on the bike considering the ride height of the 2.0 version. Worked on the rust on the crankshaft studs and the crankcase studs as well, got most of it cleaned up. Here's before (no after pics yet as they are back soaking in the parts washer)

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So I started on the crankshaft, planning to take off the oil filter cover to clean it up before dunking the crank in the parts washer after I buy some fresh washer solvent. Looked in the opening of the oil filter cup and did not see a bolt holding the cover on, so I found a nice, long-threaded 8mm bolt and went to work to get the cover off. Didn't budge, not one bit. Got out the heat gun and heated it up, sprayed penetrant in it and worked it some, still nothing. More heat, more penetrant. Left it soaking overnight while tension was still on the 8mm push bolt. Rinse and repeat for the next couple days, more and more penetrant, went to the propane torch for more heat. Still nothing. Even tried hose-clamping a slide hammer to the 8mm bolt, no movement.

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After the torch came into play, so did the fiery result as the penetrant expanded out and got ignited. Exciting stuff.

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Texted my CB450K0 advisor, was told I was on the right track and to just get it hotter and try tapping on the cover. Rinse and repeat, tapping, lots of heat, tightening the push bolt until I was afraid I was going to damage the end of the crank. End result... not moving, not one bit. Further discussion with my K0 advisor determined that the retaining bolt for the cap must be broken off, since after some of the copious quantity of sludge in the filter cup had come loose and out with all the penetrant, it was clear that the bolt might be broken off in the crank. Decided to cut to the chase and use a hole saw to cut the cap out of the cup, as fortunately I have another one coming from eBay for cheap (though I hate to destroy anything Bomber-related for obvious reasons). Turns out my big Wilton vise won't quite open enough to carefully clamp the crank between pieces of wood, so I used a tie-down strap to secure it in the jaws inside a thick rag and slowly went to work with the hole saw.

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Finally got through without damaging the cup itself, though it's useless because the remaining ring of the cap is still (somehow) glued/cemented/JB Welded into it.

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And now I have to get the broken bolt out of the end of the crank, and no it won't turn at all with a pick. Ugh.
 
A horrible as that work looks, I'm glad to see that, with all the time you spend helping others here, you're making some time for your own project!
 
Thanks, it's nice to be doing something to it after all this time but I do have a list of projects I'm facing so this one will only go so far for the moment. I need to get the 900F back together and off the lift so I can get back to this engine, plus some stuff to do to my truck too as well as the usual of daily life among a lot of trees... but it's all a good problem to have.
 
Very interesting reading and a cool project. I’m impressed with the bike so far!
 
Well, if I never have this level of success at a broken bolt extraction again, at least things went well in one of the more critical situations I've faced in a long time. I listened to my K0 advisor :) and was very patient, going very slowly and cautiously. Started with 1/8" bit, progressively worked my way up to an 11/64" bit and got lucky. Got a nice center punch to start with and even though it drifted slightly toward 10 to 11 o'clock, it wasn't far enough to be a problem.

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After the bit got stuck and stopped at the end (and didn't break off since I was going slowly) the first piece I was able to collapse and remove

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Then the next... mini hemostats made it possible

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and finally, all of it

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and the tap run fully in, fortunately the threads are still quite solid

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I called it a day. Figured I used up my entire allotment of luck for today (y)

Yeehaw.
 
Yes, and it helps to be a little older and have a little more experience on the bad stuff that can happen already behind me. Now if the crank is as good as I believe (hope) it is... I still have to work on one of the rod small ends, both show signs of being hot and one side is a bit of a snug fit for the wristpin
 
I was gonna say - AD has a 450 advisor?!?

Yes, I'm not ashamed to say it and I'm surprised no one guessed it's my buddy Chris in SC (12ozPBR). He has been a student of the CB450K0 since [I helped him] fall in love with the DOHC 450, and when it comes to Bomber engine info he has learned more stuff about them than I've ever known. When I got to the Honda shops in 1970 you didn't see many of them because they looked (at the time, of course) ugly compared to the other models and of course, the CB750 had recently dropped as well so other than the later 450s and all the smaller twins and singles I worked on, I never actually worked on a Bomber until I used the K0 4 speed bottom end for my drag bike from '74 to '75. Even then, there were many things I never touched on it because the used bottom end I bought wasn't that old at the time. So when I was stonewalled on the oil filter cover on this crankshaft, he was the one I texted as he has more time in Bomber bottom ends than I do to date.

Since there's no need for this bike to be period correct, I've ordered black clutch and front brake cables for it. Then I realized that I'd need a black tach cable unless I didn't care if they matched (which I do), so fortunately the 500T has a black tach cable... except finding one wasn't as easy as I expected. Finally ended up buying one from a seller on eBay in the UK and the shipping was more than the cable, which was surprisingly cheap (total shipped £19). What was odd to me, though it may not be to those in the UK, was the name on the part number slip in the package

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I was gonna say - AD has a 450 advisor?!


-Ed
1972 CL350K4

I believe head cheerleader might be a more apt description. AD kindly overstates my knowledge on the K0. There are many that are much more knowledgeable about them than me. It just helps that I have parts and motors (both K0 and later) in my shop that I can compare and reference.
I am glad you got over that stumbling block Tom. I hope the rest of the work with the crank is trouble free.
 

Tom, I wouldn't have a clue where to start on that pile of . . . . . metal . . . . . . Sometimes I wish I'd gone into motorcycle mechanics. I was given the opportunity too! I was 18 and I'd taken my RD200 in for its first service and we got talking as you do and he just said he wanted someone willing to learn that he could train up to help him as his business was taking off rapidly. I politely said I already had a job and turned him down. Looking back, what an idiot I was! I could kick myself every time I think of it!
 
Tom, I wouldn't have a clue where to start on that pile of . . . . . metal . . . . . . Sometimes I wish I'd gone into motorcycle mechanics. I was given the opportunity too! I was 18 and I'd taken my RD200 in for its first service and we got talking as you do and he just said he wanted someone willing to learn that he could train up to help him as his business was taking off rapidly. I politely said I already had a job and turned him down. Looking back, what an idiot I was! I could kick myself every time I think of it!

James, it depends on your viewpoint, of course. I had the exact opposite opportunity, jumped in with both feet while still in high school, got my first job at age 15 as the tire buster/new bike assembler/mechanic's helper and ate/slept/lived/loved bikes... for about the first 5 years, and then you start to realize that you really like to do it for yourself but doing it every day for others and then in the evening and on weekends for yourself... it begins to wear you down a bit. I was fortunate to go to work for the City of Tampa where it was an hourly paid job, not the commission-based hustle environment I was used to previously, and that allowed me to be more myself with taking the time to do high quality work and not getting stuck as often fixing co-worker's screw-ups because I was the only one working on the bikes. And for some like myself, it eventually came to a time that I was simply tired of doing mechanical work for a living. Once I changed professions a couple decades later, bikes were a lot more fun for me again.
 
In hindsight, the grass is always greener on the other side! I really enjoyed printing I did it for 37 years but after the first 10 years it started to lose it's appeal. By the time I'd left to become a porter I'd used every printing machine there was and also learnt how to do origination work and later desktop publishing and was also sick to death of doing it! The firm went bump and did me a massive favour by catapulting me into hospital portering, which I loved. I suppose too much of anything wears you down a bit.

Except motorcycling fettling, of course!
 
It's true, when bikes aren't your livelihood they look far more appealing to spend time with.
 
On the advice of VHT member Jays100, I bought a pair of PWK carbs and I'm impressed at the value. They not only look great but the price was right too, $71 shipped for a pair of 36mm carbs for the drag bike. I've decided to leave the little red monster alone and not go to the hassle of swapping down to a pair of (much more used than originally stated) 34mm Mikunis I acquired in the deal for the V65. Beautiful polished bells already shaped like velocity stacks and clear blue bowls so you can see the float level.

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