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CL350 Front Wheel Spokes

Ribrickulous

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2020
Total Posts
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Location
Brooklyn, NY, USA
Anyone have a source that isn't $120/wheel?

I'm finding rear wheel sets no problem (I'm looking for zinc coated steel, I'd rather this than spend a ton on stainless that isn't going to be as polished as the new rims)

Front wheel it seems like the only options are a few OEM ones on ebay, which look to have dulled significantly over time, or incredibly expensive stainless sets.

Anyone have other sources for the 19" scrambler front wheel?

After this is sorted I'm picking out tires...
 
After this is sorted I'm picking out tires...

Can't help with the spokes, but get ready to have some fun with the tire selection. I just went through it and ended up buying 2 different brands to get the sizes I needed, but it will also depend on what kind of tires you want to use
 
Anyone have a source that isn't $120/wheel

I found the 19" for my SL100 front wheel on Partzilla. They totaled to $91.08. So, with tax and shipping, yes, you are up close to your shock number.

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How bad are yours? Once I pulled out my old ones, I decided to see what could be done with one on my buffing wheel. You can see by the one spoke example, in my stack, that it came out pretty darn good. I will likely try to peddle them on eBay to recover some of the cost for new ones.
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So the spokes aren’t actually terrible on mine, but the rims are starting to show their age - lots of rust spots, nothing deep, most of it went away, and stayed away, with a quick-glo treatment.

I need to replace the tires, they’re low mileage, but almost six years old, and want to take care of the rims while I’m doing that.

I couldn’t bring myself to put the old dull ones back on, and buffing worries me because iirc those are zinc coated, right?

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-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Yes, if you buff zinc plated spokes they will rust where the plating was buffed off.

You can however buff them all, scrub them with acetone and DIY zinc plate them again with great results.

The spokes and wheels I plated a few years back are still rust free, the shiny piece of bare steel I parted off on my lathe to store with them is rusty now.
 
Talking to an eBay vendor in Thailand right now... others have bought rims from them (found some tall on the old forum) with success, they apparently have spokes as well for $115 for all (front and rear) chromed steel.

Double triple checking that they are for the 19” front wheel with the drum brake...


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
After a bit of a language barrier induced back and forth, the seller confirmed they can sell chromed steel spokes that fit the 19”front and 18” rear. Both for a total of $115 (~$125 after tax).

The seller is dr.eddie_moto

I’ll check back in in a month or two when everything is delivered!


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Well holy cow. Rims and spokes came in from Thailand today DHL express at no extra cost [emoji15]

I think this guy must’ve lost money just on the shipping cost.

They look like they’re in good shape, and the front spokes are longer than the rear spokes, which bodes well.

Each tire and each set of spokes both came with rim tape, so I have enough for two tire changes now.

The only thing I can see that’s visually wrong with them is this scuff Mark that appears on both the 18 and 19 inch rim, maybe from where they sanded off a weld or something? I have no idea how these are made but it’s consistent on both wheels:

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I’ll probably do my best to polish it out so there are no issues with the tube sitting against them you can catch the peaks with your fingernail.

The spokes came all bagged together, but I think there are inner and outer, and they’re different, correct?

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The wheels are thinner (smaller width) than I thought they would be, but that may just be me not understanding how rims are sized. I don’t have my bike nearby to compare them to.

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The dimensions to the tire bed seem to be spot on:

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At first blush I’m happy with the quality. I look forward to be able to put them on a trying stand with the drums and hubs on.

I’d appreciate any insight for what else to look for before going through the motions of un-mounting my current wheels and lacing these up.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Those spots on the inside of the rims are where the rims are welded, quite typical. I've never known any spot like that to bother a tube as long as you have the rim strip in place, and I'm assuming the rim strips are continuous like a giant rubber band (because you mention "rim tape"). And yes, I do believe the inner and outer spokes are different... but I've only laced one wheel in my life so don't take my word for it completely
 
The spokes came all bagged together, but I think there are inner and outer, and they’re different, correct?

Should be. The inner and outer spokes differ slightly in length, as well as the angle of the bend that passes through the hub. The inner spokes have less distance to travel, so are the slightly shorter ones.
 
Tom - strips, correct. Just opened one of the bags, it’s a big rubber band with a hole for the stem.

Clutch Cargo - thanks, I’ll keep an eye out.

If anyone has a favorite inter webs tutorial for lacing a wheel, I’d appreciate it, otherwise I’ll post the best one I find.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Excellent! Thank you!

I’m also going to polish my hubs and drums, so need to figure out a good period of time where I won’t be using the bike.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
External cosmetics notwithstanding, the condition of the inner area is easily usable... that's all I was referring to. I drew the line at going to the trouble to unlace and relace my rims (despite them being cosmetically decent overall) to put on fresh spokes and polish the hubs. Good for you taking the time and effort to go beyond for the "good-looking build" (y)
 
Fair.

I’m not going for super high polish here, just nice enough. Wet sanded to get rid of the oxidation and a spin on the polishing wheel with the black stuff, coarse.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
PS - both rear (18”) and front (19”) are up for grabs for the cost of ahipping.

I’ll put it in parts for “sale” later on.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
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Rear wheel all laced up.

Used the witness marks to figure out where the outers were on the hub previously, and more
Importantly, looked at the front wheel to realize two inners surround the valve stem.

After putting those two together the thing goes together easy. Now to true!


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
I've only done it once and didn't true the rim with the brake backing plate or sprocket involved, just the rear the hub but I can't see any difference either way. You're dealing with tightening the spokes properly so the rim is straight and centered, and the hub is the best guide AFAIK
 
I agree, it shouldn't matter. I don't believe these have any sort of dish to them like a bicycle wheel would (i.e. the rim is centered over the hub). That said, if you happen to be using a real truing stand, it *may* actually matter to have everything together so you've got the hub spaced side to side as it would sit in the swingarm. Don't listen to me...
 
Took a bit but tried on the wheel to .020 side to side, and .030 up and down. Couldn’t find any definite language but that seems pretty straight by eye.

I’ll take it for a short spin tomorrow and double check there are no loose or tight spokes…

Now to figure out this tire machine…


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Looks great, Ed! I admire your attention to detail.


Tom - 1982 CM450E
“Noob”, but learning fast.
 
Quick follow up here, a closer read of the shop manual (page 98) gives a side runout of .020” as the standard value, and a repair value of .079”.

Tightening torque for the spokes is 1.4-1.8 ft-lbs, or 16.8-21.6 in-lbs.

I don’t have a spoke torque wrench, but they feel and sound tight.

Curiously, there’s no vertical runout spec. I suppose once they’re all tightened equally there shouldn’t be much in the way of vertical.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
^^^I'd say you're fine, but I'd check the spokes again after a few hundred miles of riding. My Dad and I used to go over every nut and bolt on the new Hondas we bought back then, including the spokes, and we didn't find many that had come loose or weren't as tight as you'd want them to be but like anything else the spokes will "bed in" and some could loosen a bit
 
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