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The “Good Looking” Build

Ribrickulous

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2020
Total Posts
1,698
Total likes
104
Location
Brooklyn, NY, USA
Just popped the original tank off (finally) tonight, and I’ll hopefully be picking up the freshly cerakoted engine before the end of the weekend.

This is the build to not make the same mistakes as the past - not that there were too many, but there’s always room for improvement.

Pictured here is the bike with the new tank, which I promptly dripped brakleen on and made the clear coat run. Fun.

aeae103984bb5f25c499e5108a2c7227.jpg


Looking forward to this one! More to come.


-Ed
1972 CL350K4
 
Nice Ed. I kind of figured you'd gotten a new bike but wasn't sure. I've had my eyes out for another to fix the mistakes of the past as well :)
 
Nice Ed. I kind of figured you'd gotten a new bike but wasn't sure. I've had my eyes out for another to fix the mistakes of the past as well :)

I had an engine pop up on Craigslist near me for $100. Couldn’t pass it up.

It’s still the same bike, I should have been clear - it’s just got a different tank on it. The original is being sent out to get repainted to the factory colors with the side covers =)

And yeah, LDR, this tank is just getting me through however long it takes for the build to take, then I’ll probably put it up on the parts for sale (mostly free) section for someone else to use.


-Ed
1972 CL350K4
 
I had an engine pop up on Craigslist near me for $100. Couldn’t pass it up.

It’s still the same bike, I should have been clear - it’s just got a different tank on it. The original is being sent out to get repainted to the factory colors with the side covers =)

And yeah, LDR, this tank is just getting me through however long it takes for the build to take, then I’ll probably put it up on the parts for sale (mostly free) section for someone else to use.


-Ed
1972 CL350K4
I'm digging the shop, insanely jealous. Is that a communal rental space or a private shop?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
Communal. I wish I had a private shop.

The communal thing has some pros and cons, but so far it’s been enough pros and not enough cons to move on.


-Ed
1972 CL350K4
 
How do you guys go about removing the bugs from the block?

I heated mine up in my oven today and went to push them out with a rubber mallet - no real force, gentle taps got them out 90% of the way but.... my mallet is only so long, and the jugs are now stuck ~90% out.

Cut a piece of wood the size of the hole to
Finish the job?

I heated them up to about 250-300.

Edit: hindsight 20/20, this should have been done BEFORE cerakoting them. I’m finding a few spots where there was some overspray, I assume because the guy had trouble taping between the jugs. Same goes for the studs coming out of the crankcase top.

-Ed
1972 CL350K4
 
I'm guessing that "bugs" mean the cylinder liners, lol.
How about using a couple of bricks on each side to suspend the cylinder so there's enough clearance under the liners to finish dropping and run it in the oven again. Success would be noted by 2 loud bangs as they fall out.
 
Communal. I wish I had a private shop.

The communal thing has some pros and cons, but so far it’s been enough pros and not enough cons to move on.


-Ed
1972 CL350K4
I wish I did too, or even a nice communal option around here, sadly not of those exist in my area.

I just have a crowded garage [emoji1787]

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
Hehehe, yes “Jugs” not “Bugs”.

I can give it another whirl in the oven with the bricks as mentioned, simple idea. Will have to scour the neighborhood but I’m sure there’ll be a few lying around.

I noticed that they were flash rusting in the oven - I assume this isn’t a big issue? I shot some WD40 on them and it seemed to go away with a quick wipe.


-Ed
1972 CL350K4
 
I wish I did too, or even a nice communal option around here, sadly not of those exist in my area.

I just have a crowded garage [emoji1787]

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

For what it’s worth id love to have a garage TO crowd [emoji14]


-Ed
1972 CL350K4
 
I noticed that they were flash rusting in the oven - I assume this isn’t a big issue? I shot some WD40 on them and it seemed to go away with a quick wipe.


-Ed
1972 CL350K4

It's just surface rust if it wipes off that easily, so no worries
 
On my 175 cylinders I just left them in the fan oven ( when my wife was out ) for around 10 - 15 minutes, staring from cold, oven set to 200 C.

No need to prop them on bricks, the liners popped up out of the cooling jacket when 'done', I then simply picked the whole thing up in oven gloves, took it outside and dropped the liners out the rest of the way, no force involved at all.
 
Thanks Richard - I'll give a little bit more heat a whirl, if the bricks and drop method doesn't pan out.

Electrical question incoming - I hadn't noticed in the battery fiche that item 5, p/n 32401-286-010, existed. I always thought the starter motor cable ran directly to the solenoid. This of course explains why my rubber cover is beat up, and I always seem to have to stretch my starter cable.

Does the starter cable just bolt through the jumper with a copper bolt, exposed? or is there another rubber cover that protects it? Photos would be appreciated. I'm making a few of my own cables/jumpers for this one, would appreciate any photos.
 
My starter cable connects directly to the solenoid. Looks like #5 is the jumper from solenoid to the battery.

ae8e058ec8e6fd1f96882cc66e0fc84b.jpg


NOTE: That's an "S" for "starter" and a number "5" for the jumper if it's not terribly obvious...
 
Oh wow. Duh. The jumper is the jumper to the battery.

This is what I get for posting before I’ve had enough coffee. Don’t mind me.

I thought the jumper was in series with the starter cable for some reason.

I actually do have the little cover, I think it’s torn up, but I’ll be re-using it.


-Ed
1972 CL350K4
 
Started on the starter motor, and realized I forgot to take this little bushing out before having it cerakoted:

c08242c8174f4a34ea19cf4c96e57d7d.jpg


Anyone have any tips?

I tried a heat gun for a few minutes but it didn’t budge. Could try popping it in the oven with the cylinders when I find a few bricks I suppose.


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And just for S’s and G’s, here’s a photo of the bike as it looks today. I finally got the grommet through the left side cover (the right is being repainted and cleared after it broke).

I’m surprised at how much I like the simple color. I’m still going to get the candy panther gold repainted on, but I’m happy riding it around as is with these looks.

I do have the heat shield, it just isn’t installed in this shot.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Certainly looks good enough to ride :) You're making constant progress. Looking forward to seeing your finished painted parts, that will transform it. I like that used tank you got there... LOL Can I assume the dent in the back of the front fender happened from a previously-installed set of crash bars?
 
Ugh. That’s been there forever and I haven’t gotten around to pulling it out.

There was a set of cruiser pegs on it when I picked it up, I assume they doubled as crash bars. One of the first things I took off.

Unfortunately I pulled the cargo rack off with it. Still an oops moment on my part.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I didn't think of cruiser pegs, gotta give the same result unfortunately. Good fenders are hard to find for a decent price.
 
Bike looks good.
It's unlikely the bearing will fall out since there's very little weight to it unlike cylinder liners. You'll need a blind bearing puller like this https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.c...vIUprjDnaiq6BoQG8aL5uVLCDAsJn1FcaAp_DEALw_wcB that inserts inside, expands with small jaws to grab the bearing. I would add as much heat to the body as you can stand since you're going to be touching it. If you have access to Freon you can shoot the bearing after heating the case, don't breath the fumes though. When Freon burns it produces a gas similar to Mustard gas.
 
Bike looks good.
It's unlikely the bearing will fall out since there's very little weight to it unlike cylinder liners. You'll need a blind bearing puller like this https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.c...vIUprjDnaiq6BoQG8aL5uVLCDAsJn1FcaAp_DEALw_wcB that inserts inside, expands with small jaws to grab the bearing. I would add as much heat to the body as you can stand since you're going to be touching it. If you have access to Freon you can shoot the bearing after heating the case, don't breath the fumes though. When Freon burns it produces a gas similar to Mustard gas.

Woof. $150. But yeah - the idea looks good. I’ll see if one of the mechanics at my shop has one I can borrow.

Alternatively, I’ve (now since posting this and futzing around on the internet) heard of packing the bearing with grease (there’s some space behind it) and tapping it with a tight fitting punch or bolt - the hydraulic force can be enough to push it out.

Gonna try that tomorrow evening and see how it goes.


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Liners popped out hanging in the oven for a bit. Left side came out after around fifteen minutes, right hung on for awhile longer, about 30 minutes at 400degf.

I’ll clean up the base gasket surface on a flat plate, and pop them back in by heating the aluminum block and pressing the cylinders back in.

Does any lubrication get used when doing this? Or is it better for them to be put back in dry. I noticed what seemed like oil that had managed to squeeze between the two when they popped out, but not sure if it’s supposed to be there or if some just manages to get by.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Beautiful, thanks Jim.

I remember the o rings being there when I disassembled the engine, but for all I know they were replaced at some point with a gasket kit that we all know doesn’t use the right size base rings.

In hindsight, the right order of operations for all of this really should have been:

1. Remove liners
2. Have block cerakoted
3. Re-install liners
4. Check all tolerances and machine as necessary.

I’m doing 4, 2, 1, 3. Not the most efficient, and I’ll wind up re-checking the roundness of the cylinders, though I’m not terribly worried about things getting too wonky. It doesn’t seem like much force is needed with a cold liner and warm block.

Likewise with the engine studs. They should have been removed from the crankcase before cerakoting, and replaced after the base gasket was confirmed smooth. This isn’t as critical, but would’ve been a better operating procedure.

Live and learn.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Grease worked like a charm, with a caveat.

There’s another guy at this garage who works at an elevator parts supply shop where they remake old parts that OEMs don’t provide anymore, lots of tooling, he’s intimately familiar with machining.

Guy turned a tool that was a tight sliding fit and the bearing popped out after 2-3 taps.

Beautiful.

Also, I now have a cb350 starter motor blind bushing removal tool if anyone needs one =)

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5339f90af9efe5595449b3f5ed1d83cd.jpg



-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Sweet! I love being around lathes and watching them work, wish I could afford (and have room for) one myself.
 
Tell me about it. I got a quick tutorial, but I don’t think I’m gonna be making any chips fly anytime soon.

Plus, the tools at the shop are, well, garbage.

Happy to have that done, and, to boot, I found that stupid little bearing retainer clip at the outlet of the starter motor.

I pulled the bearing and replaced it with a fully sealed bearing. I don’t understand why the manufacturer left a 1/2 sealed bearing that isn’t even pressed in outboard of the seal.

All in all a productive day.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
I don’t understand why the manufacturer left a 1/2 sealed bearing that isn’t even pressed in outboard of the seal.

As old as our bikes are, that may not have actually been the original bearing. You're there now, who's to say someone else hasn't been as well somewhere along the way over the last 50 years.
 
I didn't think of cruiser pegs, gotta give the same result unfortunately. Good fenders are hard to find for a decent price.

So I went back and found a picture of what the bike used to look like with the cruiser pegs on. Looks like someone bottomed out the suspension and put that ding it. I think it lines up almost perfectly.

IMG_1423.jpg
 
Yep, that would be my guess. So many times people don't take full suspension travel into consideration... even my Dad when he made that crazy dual headlight for the CB750K3 I ended up with later, it doinked the front fender in front of the forks.
 
One of the best things I’m noticing now that the engine is well and cleaned up is all the little HM casting marks.

I’ve found them on both cases, the side covers, etc...

b8cb95fd8233d10bfef52178414311aa.jpg


Spending a lot of time tonight going through each thread on the engine and making sure it’s clean and free of debris.

Using a pick to reach down and agitate any of the silica media in there, an air gun to blow it out, a pipe cleaner to get up some more, then putting it in the ultrasonic, repeating the same process, flush with water, and then thread in a test fastener to make sure it’s all clear.

Found a few that were well and gunked up, feeling good that they’re all being cleared.

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Side note, I’m real giddy about how easy it is to get grime off the engine now.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Oooook I guess don’t put cerakoted parts in a hot ultrasonic bath?
bfb7c3e71419b729c20c4ddc7e732b1b.jpg


No idea what those splotches are, but they aren’t coming off.

Light case of it on the cam case as well:

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-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Rally sorry about the splotches; hopefully you can figure out something to remove them.

On a better note, no gasket surfaces to clean!
 
Jim, it was baked on. 300 if I recall. They confirmed it a few times because I asked them about what temp I could heat the block to to get the cylinders free.

And Brian, yeah - I finally discovered the joy that is removing gasket material with paint stripper. Hands down the easiest way IMO.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Bummer... if it was my stuff, I'd be getting those 2 pieces done again. Hate to let that go as nice as all the other parts look.
 
I’m going to email cerakote and see what they say. If they suggest it was a prep issue, I’ll be taking the parts back to the shop that performed the work.

They also missed part of the top of the block, but I’m not as concerned, as I never see that part again once the head’s on.

Frankly, I really only care about the rear left side cover. It’s *very* visible.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
Spoke with the shop that applied it and cerakote.

Cerakote implied it might have been an application issue, as H-151 is coating and color stable up to 500degf. No way the ultrasonic got that hot even close to the element.

The installer obviously pushed back against this, but is willing to repair whatever needs to be repaired to make good on the work.

The blemish on the cam case and the piece missing from the block are both hidden when the engine is installed, I’ll have him re-do the left rear side cover, however.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
It wasn’t pretty, but the liners are back in.

Lack of planning on my part. Forgot the first liner would be jutting out when I tried to press the second in.

Looking back suppose I could’ve used the top crankcase (the studs are off) and just sat it on top of that, but maybe that’s too frail for the pressing force... I did heat the block up and freeze the liners, they went in easy until the liners warmed up and the block cooled down while I was futzing.

7d2d92a08bdede7d671ac6de413e34d2.jpg


I was going to pop the valves back in the head, but I can’t for the life of me figure out which valve spring compressor attachment I’m meant to use... whatever fits in the lip?

Any guidance appreciated.

e514d398d06084b17d88c1cdd5d43449.jpg



Going to do some small stuff on the bottom end today.


-Ed
1972 CL350
 
There's really no specific one, just the size that fits properly (or close enough to do it without the danger of things flying apart). My Dad once made a valve spring compressor out of a giant pair of welder's vise grips with the end of an open end wrench welded to one side of it for pushing the keeper cup on top of the spring. It was easy for it to slide off the side, but when used carefully it worked just fine
 
Windage tray back in. Drilled and tapped the three “blank” posts for m6x16 philips. Red loctite in. Was thinking of JB weld, but Hell, someone might be opening this up in another fifty years lol.

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-Ed
1972 CL350
 
While I have you, Tom [emoji16]

Which way does this kickstart piece go - number 3 in the fiche.

Ramp up or ramp down?

7ee20b5f9548a96b1df179cc71847f95.jpg



-Ed
1972 CL350
350875361c6e8903f5faf2427106472c.jpg
 
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