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CB/CL350 Steering Lock Replacement?

briandel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2020
Total Posts
752
Total likes
8
Location
Kansas City, MO, USA
I think at some point in my bikes history the ignition switch and seat lock were replaced as a pair (they're keyed the same at least).

My steering lock on the other hand is not only a different code, but inoperable as well. By inoperable I mean I can't even get a key into it. I was hoping I could get the mech/pins freed up enough to just order a new coded key for it but it just seems to be a lost cause.

I'd like to replace it, hopefully with one coded the same as the others but, if that's not possible, I'm fine with carrying a second key.

Question is: is there a good process on getting the old cylinder out? I'm assuming I'm going to have to drill the pins, then?

I've looked at the fische but it's not terribly clear on how it's actually in there. I'm guessing, if you've got the key, you unlock it, then it's removable after removing the single screw shown in the fiche(?)
 
When you remove the cover you can use the key to remove the lock set like you are thinking. As Jim mentioned the key code is on the face. If you want post the number and I may have one. Ive got a small collection of random Honda keys.
Sometimes the wrong key won’t fit in a cylinder. It may work if you have the right one.
 
Sometimes the wrong key won’t fit in a cylinder. It may work if you have the right one.

Ah, I hadn't considered that. I figured the groove pattern would be the same across all keys and only the pin pattern would differ.

Heres what I've got (don't tell anyone the code :))

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That looks like it reads T1978 (don’t worry your secret is safe with me). If that is correct then unfortunately I do not have that one, sorry. For what it is worth here is a pic of a removed one.
9DCB92F1-9B73-4AE3-B142-10984C61A566.jpg
The small press pin sticking out of the side is what holds it in. I’ve not done it but have heard you can take a small punch and hammer to shear the pin off and remove. May be worth investigating the feasibility of that if you are really ready to remove it.
 
Looks like I can pick up a key no problem for about $10. That said, the groove pattern looks the same as my ignition key so I'm kind of doubtful it will go in there either. I suppose $10 isn't too big a gamble though. Hoping it works. Thanks all.
 
My ignition key fits and works with the steering lock. These lock assemblies aren't sealed or very well protected from anything. They collect water, dirt and anything else and quickly gum up, over time it just gets worse.
Zip tie a baggie over the lower portion to sort of seal it up, trickle penetrating oil in thru the top where the lock bolt is until it's full and let it sit for a day or 2. Then try the new key to see if it'll work the tumbler slides.
 
Remove that that small phillips head screw and the cover, liberally spray the whole works with penetrating oil and let it sit for a few days adding more oil as necessary. When you get your new key start trying it in the hole, it may take a while, working the key in and out to free up the tumblers. With the tumblers freed-up the lock should turn and slide out of the hole.
edit: I just went and eyeballed the lower crown of My 160,that is missing the lock assembly, and it appears there is no notch in the slot to retain the tumblers in the "unlocked" position. In other words the only thing that retains the works in the hole, in the unlocked position, is that cylindrical cover remove it and the works slide out. Could be the 350 is the same way.
 
I assume by now you have found a replacement key. If you have not however, I have now acquired an even larger collection of old Honda keys and now have several of the one you needed. Let me know if I can still be of help. Eventually I hope to get everything sorted and will offer replacement keys for sale (special discount for VHT members!). If anyone else reads this and has a need for a replacement key for ANY old Honda send me a PM and I will see if I have what you are looking for.
 
I assume by now you have found a replacement key. If you have not however, I have now acquired an even larger collection of old Honda keys and now have several of the one you needed. Let me know if I can still be of help. Eventually I hope to get everything sorted and will offer replacement keys for sale (special discount for VHT members!). If anyone else reads this and has a need for a replacement key for ANY old Honda send me a PM and I will see if I have what you are looking for.

Chris, you should post a new thread in the Projects and Builds section, and I'll copy it to the Parts Wanted section as well, offering your vast assortment of keys available with a picture of the different styles and a price for them each. (y)
 
Chris, you should post a new thread in the Projects and Builds section, and I'll copy it to the Parts Wanted section as well, offering your vast assortment of keys available with a picture of the different styles and a price for them each. (y)

Thank you Tom. As soon as I get organized I will happily take you up on that offer.
 
I did end up getting a key a while back with the correct code but it doesn't go in either. I think the pins are either frozen, or busted, or something. I've given up on it for the time being and have just resolved to throw a bike lock through the front wheel when I'm feeling particularly paranoid.

That said, it's still a problem I want to get solved but I think I'm going to end up having to drill it out or something.

The bike's in the basement for the winter and I'm going to be rebuilding the forks and putting in new steering bearings so I'll be able to get a better look at it.
 
OK, after taking a lock pick tool to it, the pins are just completely frozen in there, no movement at all. We'll see what immersing it in PB Blaster for a few days does to it...
b1537f51c62c7dc97f2e90cccc51fbe2.jpg
 
I wonder if part of an old key is broken off in it?
Though I can't entirely rule that out, I don't think that's the case as I can get a pick all the way to the back of the cylinder. I can feel the four pins in there but they're not moving... I refilled the bag again a few minutes ago; seems my rubber band seal wasn't as good as I'd hoped and the Blaster had leaked out to a bit lower than the cylinder. I'll check it tomorrow.
 
I was looking at that lock when I took my bike apart. It looks to me like that lock is just driven into the triple tree and is not something you would drill out. You can see it easy enough...Can someone confirm that it is removed and replaced by tapping it out from the top?

raWTNGW.jpg


rwHHoJC.jpg
 
It is removed by removing the one screw holding the plastic cover over it, then inserting the key, turning it and pulling out the lock cylinder (as opposed to turning it and pushing inward to lock the forks)
 
Yep, still no luck. Got out my lousy borescope to have a look. No broken key, fairly clean in there, but those pins are not willing to move at all.
8f2990edba4075b5d6b0deb14ade89dd.jpg

Unfortunately, the focal length on this thing is fixed so getting a better focused pic is near impossible on subjects this close. Not sure if the pins are mushroomed or what but they're not budging, not a single one of them.

I'll probably keep squirting penetrant up there and fiddle with it every so often but I'll most likely just drill it out and replace it when I disassemble the front end.
 
I believe you can drive it out the front once the lower triple/steering stem is out of the frame. All that holds the lock cylinder is a small roll pin and the lock is obviously quite corroded anyway with the chances of being able to repair it once out being very low. A good whack with a 2 lb hammer and drift on the top of the pin that extends to lock the forks should snap off that roll pin, and it should slide out the front without the need for the key to allow the cylinder to turn
 
...And would you look at that...
180694be31d2a29f705e266996ede772.jpg


About every fifth time I walked by the bike, I'd once again see if I could get my key in this thing. Last time I tried, I swore I got it past the first tumbler but wasn't 100% sure. I was still resigned to drilling it out when I pull things apart to do the steering bearings.

Today, I tried again and was convinced the second pin was passed... A little wiggling and jiggling and some light taps on the key from the side of a ball peen hammer and it was in! Gave it a turn and it popped right out! Highlight of my day right there.
 
Interestingly, the Honda key blank is one that was usually used on the smaller bikes like the CT90, CT70, CB100 etc
 
Interestingly, the Honda key blank is one that was usually used on the smaller bikes like the CT90, CT70, CB100 etc
Funny you mention it. With the lock cover in place, I wasn't able to push the plunger in far enough to be able to actually get it locked because the "grip" of the key was too close to the teeth and it ran right up to the plastic. I ended up having to take the Dremel to the key to essentially make the working part longer. The code is correct but the blank isn't the right style. The grooves in the side of the key are different from my main key as well.

It works great now but, eventually, I'd like to get the right key or, even better, find a lock that's the same code as my ignition and seat. Not holding too much hope in that though.
 
Funny you mention it. With the lock cover in place, I wasn't able to push the plunger in far enough to be able to actually get it locked because the "grip" of the key was too close to the teeth and it ran right up to the plastic. I ended up having to take the Dremel to the key to essentially make the working part longer. The code is correct but the blank isn't the right style. The grooves in the side of the key are different from my main key as well.

It works great now but, eventually, I'd like to get the right key or, even better, find a lock that's the same code as my ignition and seat. Not holding too much hope in that though.

Send a PM to member 12ozPBR with the key code, he bought a massive collection of Honda keys not long ago and may very well have one with the right T-shaped blank for you. As you've noticed, the T-shaped key gives the extra length to make the fork lock work properly.
 
I had a 1966 Honda C110 when I got my new ‘69 CL350, and to my surprise, the 350 key worked in the Sport 50, but not the other way around. The key numbers were different, but the only difference I could see was an extra groove on the side of the 350 key.
 
Nice that you finally got the key to work. Patience is key! (Sorry I couldn’t resist) :tongue:
One nice aspect of having the two different styles for one bike is you will easily know which one is for the switch and which is for the fork lock.
It is interesting about the difference in the cut of your two keys though. I have seen both styles in the same number, in fact here is yours in the 2 different styles but the cut is identical and you mention yours is different.
AD177BD7-631B-460A-83DC-AF2B73DF939F.jpg
Additionally I have seen some of the older T keys that will have the same number but a slightly different cut such as these
D89723FE-37FE-408A-9EA3-C0A1FFF77EB3.jpg E766DA61-1720-4119-B47B-F7147C1EDAA3.jpg
I think the H series keys have even more confusing differences within the same numbers. Like so many things on these old Hondas, as soon as you think you have it figured out you will find a situation that makes you learn something new. The deeper you dig into them you find little intricacies that make you pay attention and keep you on your toes.
 
Yeah, it's funny, the bike came with two keys. One genuine Honda key and another Ilco copy with the same tooth cut but different "channels" for lack of the correct term. The Honda key works fine for the ignition but is hit or miss on the seat lock, taking quite a bit of pushing and fiddling to get it to work. The Ilco copy works fine for both so that's the one on my ring.

The replacement steering lock key has yet a third pattern for the side "channels" and *will* fit into the ignition but not the seat lock. Neither of the T keys fit into the steering lock. Who knows what type of mismatch of cylinders and keys I've got...
68302c9a5284a1938d15b2e2774b8bc4.jpg


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Going to do some reading up here when I can sit down at the computer:
http://hondakeys.com/key_id.html
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The cut on these two keys looks identical, but the smaller key doesn’t work in either my ignition or fork lock.

F66D272A-7906-479F-8C9F-906A157742B8.jpg
 
First, try lubrication. A lubricant can help penetrate and loosen the internal workings of the cylinder, this will likely not fix the problem. Lubricants such as WD40, silicon or even a small dot of graphite to the key can help. The key may need to be inserted numerous times to give the lubricant a chance to work.

If the lubricant is not effective, and the euro cylinder lock remains stuck, then it needs to be removed. Depending what tools are available will likely determine which option is employed to replace the cylinder lock.

I agree that graphite is the best fix for this, but this thread is also a year and a half old and I'm sure they found their solution already.

Please check your PMs (private messages) again.
 
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