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The 62 CA95 Basket Case Rescue Log, Start Date June 1st 2024

I admire your determination to make the old parts work. I tried to do the same, even using the original location for the rectifier (up inside the hollow monocoque body) with a small modern cheap rectifier. I couldn't figure how to cram the Sparck's unit up there but it fit nicely over the tool tray.
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My usage probably drove these changes. Typical ride at 30-50 mph meandering the small roads out of town until the sun gets low, then hop on the Leitersburg Pike, a state highway, 50-70mph traffic, and ride flat out for 20 miles. Without a tach, it's hard to say but 65mph is at or above stated top speed and wound out pretty good for a half hour, at times.
I love this bike, it now runs like a satiated simian.


Last idea on your short. The Benlys and Dreams used a green wire for headlamp and speedo lamp power (key switch terminal HE). Still gives me cause to pause when looking in the spaghetti bowl.
Member, Nabs, made a great colorized wiring diagram (that may be in our library) or in his build thread around 12/21/21.

Hot coffee and power naps always bring success. Good tunes too.
 
Found a couple of issues once I installed the solid-state rectifier. Replacing the rectifier made no difference, so I opened up the headlight bucket. Identified wrong wire connection. Replaced the headlight and turned the switch to headlight setting, headlight turned on bright! Tried new horn, great! Then smoke from the headlight bucket.

The fuse didn't blow. Ok, open up the bucket. Harness black wire with white strip partially melted along with red hot wire. Ignition switch works! Black wire with white strip connects to alternator which leads to the green wire connecting to the points. Ok, that wire got pinched by the cover. So, today's effort is to go over wiring once again and hopefully get it right. I'm not frustrated at all, believe it or not. Dealing with raggedy parts, especially wiring can lead to further challenges downstream. I may pull the harness. Push comes to shove, maybe get another harness. Many thanks for your input! Chip
 
I could not let it go. Electrical good. Damage repaired. As above, a couple of incorrect connections, maybe the rectifier, but the solid-state remains. Had to clean up the solenoid.
Electric starter motor does not move even though connection hot when pressing the starter button. My next journey is the starter motor and the clutch. I want to see the clutch activated with the side cover off, hopefully I've got the correct plates including the "A" plate. I appreciate the interest in my journey. Please enjoy the attached pic!IMG_4356.JPG
 
Glad it wasn't too severe. My starter likes at least 6.2 volts (6.4 is full battery charge) to turn but the solenoid does click.

Don't forget your lower shock bolt locknuts.
 
Thanks. I appreciate your keen eye! The bike is loosely put together, as so to speak. I will indeed assure all fasteners are in place and tight before the first ride. As far as the starter goes, I plan to pull the left cover off to see if the starter motor is at least twitching. If not, I may have to remove it and break it down again. It's possible I have assembled it incorrectly. I'm sure I assembled the starter the way I took it apart. Then again, maybe not. I'm also concerned the engine is too tight, but the crankcase is dry with the exception of assembly lube. Lots of little variables when resurrecting a bike from scrap.
 
Starter motor needed a good cleaning that's all. The engine turned over nicely, and the clutch works as well. Soon, the engine gets buttoned up, oil added and all that's left is arrival of the throttle cable. After the cold snap passes, I'm itching to connect a fuel container of some sort and see if she starts!
 
Starter motor needed a good cleaning that's all. The engine turned over nicely, and the clutch works as well. Soon, the engine gets buttoned up, oil added and all that's left is arrival of the throttle cable. After the cold snap passes, I'm itching to connect a fuel container of some sort and see if she starts!
Oh good. With plugs and tappet covers off, I like to spin it till I see oil on the rockers before actual start up.

Oh yeah, remove those muffler baffles for the full symphony.
 
Excellent advice. I sure will cycle the engine and inspect rockers for oil. Some time ago, during one of so many micro jobs, I cleaned up the oil pump and made sure that it worked. I don't have mufflers as of yet. I'm considering two avenues for mufflers. Order new ones from Thailand or build straight pipes. Attached is from 2009, my hONDA 150 6-5-09 001.jpg8 August 2018 Honda CA95.jpg1965 CA95build with straight pipes and from 2013, my1964 CA95 build with mufflers from Thailand.
 
I realize my recent posts sounds like a diary. I continue to share pleasing results from this project. I have spark. Amazing to consider this bike being stored disassembled for decades and ignition parts once cleaned up actually work. The wiring challenge is the result of fading lines on wire covers and chronic use of color sleeves. The color sleeves make me think "(production) Hey, we ran out of white color wire, so just use black and put a white sleeve on it!). Original headlight bulb still works as well. All that is left for this project is cables, drive chain, gas tank and a few ancillary tidbits. Speaking of gas tank. The inside of the gas tank is clean and like new. I'm happy, but I can't figure out why the tank is in fine shape. There was some rancid smell initially, but once aired out, no odor. The fuel tank petcock is in perfect condition as well. To add to the mystery, the outside of the tank has "patina" and the chrome side panels were rusty. Maybe the side panels were cathodic, but I'm stretching for reasoning for clean tank and fuel petcock. Looks like I will be completing my project sooner than expected. Although, there is an outside chance of doing a custom paint job next summer. Thanks for taking the time to follow my project!
 
Where can I get some of that Preservation Number 5 perfume?
This my friend is my secret weapon of all time. Flood (Penetrol). I love the smell as well. Add this product to oil based external paint for a smooth and penetrating coating. Waterproofs wood, restores faded automotive paint. Prevents rust. Back in the 80's I had a 20ft Deep V Day Cruiser in a slip all season in Vermillion, Ohio. The hull often went dull both above and below waterline. My slip mates would spend hours with special wax and buffing wheels to bring back the fiberglass sheen. Not me. Wipe dull fiberglass with Penetrol and the shine lasted nearly all summer. A little dab behind both ears is all you need LOL. Caution, Penetrol makes smooth surfaces slippery, so no stairs, decks or walkways.
 
Just at time stamp. I threw on the seat, tank and the battery side cover just to get an idea of what she's going to look like when finished. Lots of small jobs to complete and a few parts yet to be ordered. Attached is another before pic and a pic taken today

As purchased ebay pic.jpgIMG_4390.JPG
 
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See those exhaust pipes in the picture above? Something wasn't right. They fit, well kind of, ok I thought, maybe because the engines a 1963 model year I reckoned. So today I tried to mount the foot pegs. Foot pegs would not bolt up! Pipes in the way. Odd. So, I swap left side for right side. no dice, pegs will not mount. Ok, I remove the exhaust pipes, pegs mount fine. Go to install the exhaust pipes, they, fit but not quite although they fit the at the cylinder head. So, I pull up some pictures of a few of my previous builds, these pipes are not pipes for the CA95. I then remember when I bought the bike, there were two bikes on the scrap pallet. The bike next to mine was a CB160. I'll bet they fit the CB160. Back to Ebay for good CA95 cb160 next to CA95.JPGused pipes.
 
I could see me making that oops mistake. Then I could see me going back to get the rest of that CB160 and the correct CA95 pipes. You know, make lemonaide and all that.
 
Wish I had the room for the CB160. Being the picture and PU of the CA95 was last May, I'm sure it's gone. The pipes are good but rough. I have a bucket and box of nasty parts going to the recycle yard, the pipes go with it.
 
The one looks better than mine. I'd pay to save them from the crusher, and I have an extra motor waiting for a Vantech frame to crawl into my shop, or anther 160 frame.
 
Pictures do no justice, but I would be glad to send them to you. You have to take them both, collars and all No charge. No charge back to me for shipping either, but the cost of shipping has to go in the Salvation Army Bucket, Local pet shelter or church basket. Just PM an address.
 
Pictures do no justice, but I would be glad to send them to you. You have to take them both, collars and all No charge. No charge back to me for shipping either, but the cost of shipping has to go in the Salvation Army Bucket, Local pet shelter or church basket. Just PM an address.
Cool. The SA needs funds for our NC friends and the bucket and bell ringers are always in front of the Dutch (amish, menonnite, other dunkard sects) Market I frequent weekly. I'll even matching funds any costs, they can sure use it.
 
My header pipes came in today and they fit. My project will slow down a bit as I need to do come creative thinking. The original adapter connecting the carburetor to the intake tube and ultimately to the big bulky air filter is missing. I can buy another partial carb just for the adapter, but then I pay out the nose for one piece only to have extra spare parts. So, I acquired a velocity stack and modified the opening to fit the end of the carb. From this point I plan to retrofit an air filter and entry ports to accommodate the head and valve breathers. IMG_4454.JPG
 
I'm relieved to hear the pipes fit good. Hopefully the collars you have also fit. I haven't looked at the CB160 collars you sent to see if they also work on the CA95s.

I just saw, in my parts book, that the carb snout extensions don't have a part number, at least in the round bowl diagram I have. It is 48mm long and 32mm (1.25") at the small end, 44mm (just under 1 3/4") at the big end.

These final minor pieces do take time to get right and I've forgotten about them till it gets to the end.
 
Thanks for the dimensions! I will send out pictures as I progress. Oddly enough, a parts carb with the extension has come up on eBay. Not sure if I will scuttle my plans for building my own system.

The collars I sent fit the CA95 although they came from the CB160. I'm of the opinion Honda may have interchange parts. I know back in the 60's we had an "interchange" book listing what parts fit which models of cars. The pipes are a different story.
 
I want to share two pics regarding the velocity stack air cleaner idea. The stack is pinched onto the carb body with set screws. I ordered a round air filter to mount to the stack. Breather tubes from the engine will be routed into the air cleaner. This setup will suffice until such time parts become available.IMG_4455.JPGIMG_4456.JPG
 
I want to share two pics regarding the velocity stack air cleaner idea. The stack is pinched onto the carb body with set screws. I ordered a round air filter to mount to the stack. Breather tubes from the engine will be routed into the air cleaner. This setup will suffice until such time parts become available.
Creative adaptation.
 
Since stock air filters and the rubber snorkle are available from the far east,

And I saw this.

I need the power jet jet (small ones inside) for my next bike round bowl type. The round bowl types are both the same, air and fuel, but this flat bowl may have one, or ones, that I can use. I'm going to get it, if you weren't planning on it, for spares (Charles has a flat side bowl). You can have the extension.
 
I have that listing on watch, so I will back off on it. I appreciate your generosity. I have a couple of small jets left over from previous builds. See pic. The new one is marked 40.IMG_4457.JPG
 
The bidding ends Fri. I will keep watch and hopefully get it without too much upping my bid.
That #40 idle jet is bigger than all mine, at #35's.
I'm looking to get the power jet's that are located both in the air cleaner side thin snout (on the round bowl types) and on the side under the slotted cap screw.
Picture to follow.
 
IMG_1515.jpeg


The power jet is in the middle. There are two of these (one for air and one for fuel) on the round bowl carbs. The later flat side bowl carbs have a power jet for the air which has a larger head and protrudes from the inlet side snout. These can be seen on the ebay carbs. I'm hoping both type carbs have the same threading on their power jet mountings in the bodies.


If you know the sizes and locations of your power jets and can share that info, it would be great to have a post archived for future Benly owners. I have some info, in addition to what is printed on pages 65 and 66 in the FSM.
 
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I'm hoping both type carbs have the same threading on their power jet mountings in the bodies
If you're referring to the jet mounting within the bowl, I believe early and late carb's will have the same mount. I could not find any markings on the old jets found in my carb (PW20HOV) I was able to remove the "snout" jet, to my surprise. I highly recommend the Wheeler Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set for delicate removal of screws and especially those soft brass jets imbedded in vintage aluminum castings.
 
Also, looking at the carb you're bidding on, I have these extra parts left over you might be able to use to help make it complete.IMG_4464.JPG
 
Today, the gas tank and side covers are finished. I'm beginning to warm up to the idea of keeping the patina and the original paint rather than a full-blown paint job as done with all of my previous restorations less the 1985, VT700. Underside of both tank, side covers, and chain guard (not shown) have been clear coated to prevent further rust. Tank side panels were buffed using green stainless-steel rough, cleaned and clear coated as well. The small badge is an item I salvaged long ago, broken in half and in bad shape. I cleaned the badge up and put it back together several years ago then hung it on the wall with the rest of my memorabilia. Off the wall and onto the side panel it rests. Tank and side panel pics are taken in my home-made IMG_4471.JPGIMG_4469.JPGIMG_4472.JPGIMG_4473.JPG fume hood.
The rear fender was partially painted with Testors model paint. Amongst the pics is the lates pic of the finished seat with chrome trim. I've cheated before with 3M adhesive chrome trim on clean vinyl. Finally, the items I used to bring back the shine of both the repaired fender and original paint on the 62. Enamel paint sticks well to old tank knee pads.
IMG_4470.JPG
 
Thanks, we'll see if I win it on Fri. I'm not going crazy bidding on it though.
Looks like a 105 main jet there.
I should pull, clean and document everything in Charles late flat side from his 65 too.
 
I'm beginning to warm up to the idea of keeping the patina
I like it too. Original is original, even if the age adds to the bikes story.
I bet your preservation steps will hold up well, if not thrown back in the barn for years.
The knee pad paint should keep them from crumbling too.
 
Here is the carb for “blue”, the next benly project bike. It needs an air power jet in the skinny snout. It has internal thread to take the same jet that is loosely sitting in the fuel power jet hole. (EDIT: The pic is misleading, the brass jet shown is the wrong thread and only fits in the snout. The fuel jet is the same size 130, but is a drilled in aluminum body jet, no removable brass jet) The slotted cap screw (different thread) should have a thin fiber sealing washer. If needed for a late style carb, I think the air snout could be threaded to take a spare main jet, instead of the very hard to find power jets. Perhaps soldered and drilled to resize.IMG_1518.jpeg

The slide and needle use the flat butterfly shaped needle holder, not the “W” type you showed in your pic of extra parts.
 
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Please take note of my above post EDIT, sorry for any confusion. I hope to document the different later style carb (flat side bowl) on my friend Charles '65. It is still not performing satisfactorily, so it needs done.
 
I think the air snout could be threaded to take a spare main jet, instead of the very hard to find power jets. Perhaps soldered and drilled to resize.

Geez. I accidently double quoted.
If the carb was mine and I could not find an internal jet, I would 1.) Find a brass rod equal to the inside diameter of the snout. Order the drill size to match 130. Drill the center of the rod, cut to size and tap your newly made jet in place. 2.) Find a brass tube slightly larger than the snout, solder in a good fitting jet and slide over the snout, fixed on with epoxy or simple tapped snug. Small brass rod and tubing can be found at hobby or RC stores.
 
Today I would like to share the cool but mystical clean fuel petcock. As noted in prior posts, for some unknown reason the inside of the 1962 tank that came with the bike is literally spotless. Absolutely rust free. The fuel petcock mounting screws released with minimal efforts. The petcock cleaned up better than any previous Honda Dream projects hands down. So, this project I will chance installing a rebuild kit. I bought an aftermarket external fuel mount and petcock as a backup. I may copy the aftermarket petcock. Seems easy enough. See pics.IMG_4484.JPGIMG_4485.JPGIMG_4486.JPGIMG_4487.JPGIMG_4488.JPG
 
Geez. I accidently double quoted.
If the carb was mine and I could not find an internal jet, I would 1.) Find a brass rod equal to the inside diameter of the snout. Order the drill size to match 130. Drill the center of the rod, cut to size and tap your newly made jet in place. 2.) Find a brass tube slightly larger than the snout, solder in a good fitting jet and slide over the snout, fixed on with epoxy or simple tapped snug. Small brass rod and tubing can be found at hobby or RC stores.
I built a prototype of my idea for installing external power jets to internal power jet snout without the rare internal jet. My prototype will except external jets from later year CA95 carb snouts. Tap on tight or secure with bonding material of your choice. It's yours if you want to try it out!IMG_4489.JPGIMG_4490.JPGIMG_4491.JPGIMG_4492.JPGIMG_4493.JPG
 
Ok, you've got an early round bowl and, as far as I can tell they have 130 size on both the air and fuel power circuits. I used my micro bit set to measure the body permanent fuel jet at 130. The steel cap screw is a slightly bigger thread.
That set up should work just fine.
I don't think I mentioned that the later flat side bowl carbs have different sizes power jets.
Power air 100
Power fuel 140
I believe I got these numbers from Charles flat side, some time ago, and later verified by another member this summer.
 
Wow Chip. Thanks. I guess my edit in post 285 wasn't clear, I found out only one jet (internal in snout) is needed, as the fuel (on the side under the cap screw) is permanent. I do have the one needed for my next project blue bike carb.
The ebay carb, I'm bidding on for Friday, is a later flat side that will be for spares and an extension air filter piece for you. I'm still winning but a couple says left.

Well, Samaritan's Purse needs funds for warm housing for the western NC popsickles still living in tents so, a perfect excuse to give some there.
 
Oh, ok. The setup I sent was made from spare loose parts of little monetary value. The jet itself is not modified, so y'all have a spare jet.
 
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