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Severely seized/stripped Rotor

EzPete

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2023
Total Posts
322
Total likes
225
Location
Texas
In moving on to tearing down the bottom half for the next round of machine work - hit a major snag.

This rotor is absolutely seized on, and to top it off, it looks like the wrong puller was used sometime in the past and the threads are really shot. To the point that when you get the puller bolt seated agains the crankshaft end, it just spins after about 12-15 pounds of torque.

I have tried every stuck part trick I know.

Heat gun
Tension
Tapping
Shock pull
Soaked two days in PB Blaster while under a heat lamp, with a theragun taped to it for a few hours.
Increasing torque 2 lb/Ft while soaking in PB Blaster under a heat lamp.

Does anyone know if there’s a way to open the case without pulling the rotor? Everything I’ve seen has that being pulled first.

I’m sure I can press it out, once it’s removed - I just need to get it out without damaging the rotor or the crankshaft.

I’ve dealt with some stuck stuff before but this is wild.
 
On a dohc 450 I used a 3 jaw puller to remove a rotor that had gotten jammed while running and seized the engine. I don't remember how much torque was used to get it off, but after it broke free it jumped over 10'
 
On a dohc 450 I used a 3 jaw puller to remove a rotor that had gotten jammed while running and seized the engine. I don't remember how much torque was used to get it off, but after it broke free it jumped over 10'
Yeah. The only way I could get that to work would be to run an M8 down through the crankshaft and figure out a way to lever against the head of that, which likely results in a snapped M8 stuck inside the crank.
I even fabricated a flat head screw by rounding an M8, seating it against the crankshaft, then running the puller in to see if I could “block off” the shot threads and extend the end of the crankshaft a bit. No dice.

The only thing getting these apart without damaging either piece is a hydraulic press, but that’ll only work with the crank and rotor out of the case.
 
The presence of the rotor on the crankshaft will not prevent you from removing the lower case.
 
I do t recall exactly, but think I stacked some washers or cut a bolt head to push against.

You can def pull the crank w rotor in place. My rotor was trash since it had gotten jammed (one of the clutch screws backed out) so I wasn't worried about damaging it
 
The presence of the rotor on the crankshaft will not prevent you from removing the lower case.
Thank you good sir! Sometimes you get stuck on one route and forget to look for the exit!

Breaking it down now. PO probably had some shifting issues.

4253D100-F3F2-4C0A-80EA-CF0E4E21D035.jpeg
 
Yeah, the pizza cutter looks sloppy but most are by now if they're still original. The neutral detent roller came back in stock with someone recently, just did a quick search and can't find where but they're cheap. VHT member @12ozPBR refurbishes the large detent roller (aka pizza cutter) for members, and there's an aftermarket 'new' version being sold on eBay as well. You should check the 'star' end of the drum as well where the large roller rides, they often get grooves worn in them.
 
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