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Oil Filter Cover O-Ring and Oil Filter Rotor Circlip

Ribrickulous

Ribrickulous

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I'm going to be doing the first few services on my CL350 (150 mile, soon 500 mile, etc...) and I'm trying to bulk order things like O-rings without breaking the bank.

Does anyone have a source for the 63.5x2 o-ring on the oil filter cover? theoringstore.com has a 63x2 or a 64x2. Frustratingly they have half-steps for most all other sizes, just not this one.

I'd imagine the 63 would work even with a little bit of stretch, but if there's a better source I'm all for it.

Likewise with the rotor internal circlip. I know this one is a unique thin 45mm clip (.75mm if I remember?). Looks like Partzilla has them, but I'm a little uneasy with only having one supplier. The old one I pulled out looked like it had been through hell and back in 8,400miles. I do have a fresh one in there but would love to have options for replacing them.
 
The circlip you don't have to worry about so much, they last a long time, just have a spare or maybe 2.
In this fiche https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/models-with-no-year/cl350k4-a/oil-filter-oil-pump
#13 has a short life span because you are constantly bending one of the ears which will break off.
#16 should be changed regularly
And you might want to start a search for #'s 6, 7 & 8 for the future.
Yo can try the stretch routing with a 63 mm O-ring but remember that as it stretches ti becomes thinner. I would order a dozen of the 63.5's from Honda and be done. They don't have to be replaced every time, 2-3 oil changes and they should be ok.
 
Thanks Jim - now I’ll ask a really silly question... does the entire rotor need to be removed for every filter cleaning? I was planning on leaving that lockwasher in place until I needed to split the cases again, hopefully a ways away.

I was planning on wiping out most of whatever I find in there with a rag and using one of those flexible make-a-funnels to blast some solvent into it without contaminating the case.

Good call with the gasket. I remember that being a little bit of a pain to find, though I suppose with some time I could cut my own.

And yeah, #16 is a standard size from theoringstore.com, I picked up 20 for six or seven bucks if I remember. Maybe ten at most.


Ed
1972 Honda CL350
 
Actually you can cheat, put a plastic or aluminum can with the ends cut out over the spinner housing to work as a drain funnel and the flush the inside out with carb or brake cleaner. That way nothing gets into the crankcase. Just don't spray into the center pipe piece.
 
To be quite honest, unless you've had a major event the filter requires very little maintenance.
Personally, I wouldn't even look at it for 5~10,000 miles unless I just wanted something to do.
. Majority of people don't understand just how good the centrifugal filter is, far superior to ANY paper or mesh filter as it will remove sub 10 micron particles, and works better the higher you rev.
The only thing I would recommend is to enlarge the orifices on oil transfer piece, very easy on 350 as you don't have to remove entire clutch cover.
 
It was the first oil change/inspection after a top and bottom end rebuild.

Honestly I’ll pop the cover and do a quick clean every 1,500 miles/oil change just to keep an eye on things, and every two or three oil changes I’ll pop the side cover to check under the oil pump screen.

The consumables are reasonably cheap, and it takes maybe an extra ten minutes to look around in there?

No need to convince me of the filter, it had collected plenty of Uber-fine particles when I opened it up, it was more of a pumice-laced sludge, frankly, but I could tell it was made of particulates because it was the same consistency as the stuff that accumulated around the neodymium magnet I stuck to the side of the drain plug. Plenty of dust coming off the cylinders/rings as they get acquainted.

Happy to know it’s not running around in the engine!

Ed
1972 Honda CL350
 
On a re-built engine it's good to have piece of mind, particularly as it isn't something most people do on a regular basis.
Even now, after building 'hundreds' (probably more over 50 yrs) of engines I still like to have a look inside 'important' ones (not always the best idea, my XS'800' twin is still waiting for me to put the re-phased crank back together)
If you don't find 'anything' at 3,000 miles, you ain't going to until you get over 30,000 miles
Neodymium magnets are great, you can drill a hole in just about any drain plug and just drop one in. It ain't going anywhere. I don't bother to epoxy or 'rivet' them in mine-if it's a steel plug. (alloy or non-magnetic is a different matter though )
 
Resurrecting this thread.

While looking for another oil filter circlip for my second engine (found on ebay eventually) I realized that partzilla is out of stock.

Measurements confirmed that the OD of the clip matches one pretty well that's readily available from McMaster, but is 1.75mm thick instead of .75mm thick.

How hard would it be to machine the readily available one down by 1mm? Particularly if you had a buddy with a machine shop?
 
Remember, you would be attempting to grind thinner (to less than 1/2 thickness) a piece of spring-tempered steel (hardened through, not just case hardened) without it getting hot enough to reduce the temper.....
 
Last edited:
66Sprint said:
Remember, you would be attempting to grind thinner (to less than 1/2 thickness) a piece of spring-tempered steel (hardened through, not just case hardened) without it getting hot enough to reduce the temper.....
Click to expand...

Basically what my buddy said.

Told me someone with a surface grinder taking it slow could do it, but they’d need to be careful not to overheat it.


Ed
1972 Honda CL350
 
Unless you know someone with a surface grinder it would probably cost more than the often inflated eBay prices to actually thin one down.
A 'wet' grinder would keep things cool enough though.
Reading through earlier comments, there isn't any need to worry about spraying in the filter housing, the crank isn't drilled for oil flow and the centre hole' doesn't actually 'go' anywhere .
Oil is fed to the big ends from the inner crank web by centrifugal force. The main bearings are 'pressure fed' with high volume.
This is the re4ason I never worry about increasing oil flow to top end, gravity will keep mains and big ends supplied well enough if oil is getting to main gallery behind cylinders
 
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Well hot damn it fits. Pretty snugly too. Easier to put in and out than the OEM one (less twisty) and stays put (I put a 6mm against the filter while the ring was in, gave it a few turns and it stayed put).

Joe, the guy who made them, says it would be $10-15 per depending on the order size.

If anyone’s interested shoot me a message. I’ll put together a bulk order and mail them out at cost.


Ed
1972 Honda CL350
 
Looks good, and since (I'm assuming) they're NLA at this point that's a plus.

Doesn't look like those lock tabs on the oil pump bolts are bent over much...
 
They pop up on eBay here and there. I haven’t seen them on Partzilla in awhile.

The oil pump bolts have stayed put for awhile. It may just be the camera angle but they’re snugly in there =)


Ed
1972 Honda CL350
 
Ribrickulous said:
The oil pump bolts have stayed put for awhile. It may just be the camera angle but they’re snugly in there =)


Ed
1972 Honda CL350
Click to expand...

I don't doubt that the bolts are tight, it's just that the lock tabs don't look bent much and certainly don't look bent up against the side of the bolts as much as it would seem they'd look like in a picture
 
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