• Don't overlook our Welcome Package, it contains many links to important and helpful information about functions at VHT like posting pictures and sending PMs (private messages), as well as finding the parts you need.

    AD

Is this damper rod damaged?

Randall

Randall

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2021
Total Posts
609
Total likes
7
Location
Cape Coral, FL, USA
I'm into the front suspension of my CM450E, because the ride is pretty rough up front. Plus, the left fork, the one I have taken apart first was leaking a bit.

I got it all apart successfully and without much pain, but as I was cleaning everything up I came across this hard plastic piece on the damper rod. Is it broken? If so, what to do? It sure seems broken, but if not, how on Earth did they manufacture a hard plastic piece around hard metal like this?

Clymer calls it a damper rod, Partzilla calls it a pipe seat, and unavailable.

I also don't seem to be able to locate the piston ring that goes between the spring and the damper rod. I do feel a piece in the tube by the indentation that is free to rotate, is that it?

001.jpg
 
That plastic piece is the piston ring.

#9 is available, and installs similarly to any other type of piston ring.

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cm450e-1982-c-usa_model1052/ring-piston_51437413003/

honda-cm450e-1982-c-usa-front-fork-cm450e_bighu0184f0c08_a2a7.gif
 
Oh, OK. So looking at the cmsnl photo, it has the same slant separation as mine, so I guess mine is not broken. That is good news, thanks!
 
Weird, both the Clymer and the Honda FSM, as well as a couple of videos I have seen mention the main fork spring going in tapered side down, but the one spring I have pulled so far does not have a tapered side. It was more rusty on the top side, and more gunked up on the bottom, so that's how I put it back in after cleaning.

Is this unusual not to have a tapered spring?

Now if I can only get the stubborn 8mm hex bolt on the bottom of the fork slider free. The first one came free without much complaint, but this one isn't moving so far. Soaking in penetrating oil overnight, and will hit it with some heat tomorrow. Wish me luck.
 
You have the basic straight spring on this model. Look at the coils though and see if they are evenly spaced at both ends, if so then the spring goes whichever way you want. If they're not then the tight coils go down.
Assemble the fork that has the problem bottom bolt with the spring included. The spring will lock the inner piece, then use an impact driver to pop the bolt loose.
 
Sitting overnight in penetrating oil, and 10 minutes with my heat gun, and that bolt came free like it wanted out!

But now another quandary. Which way does the seal go in? It's confusing, Clymer says to position the seal with the markings facing upward, which I did on the first one. But, I paid closer attention when I pulled the second one, and the markings are facing down on it, and the first original one as well, judging from the pry marks. The originals have slightly thicker inner and outer rings on the bottom, where it makes sense that it would seat in the groove. It's hard to tell which is the smaller ID flap on the originals, since they are worn, but with the markings facing upward on the new ones the smaller ID is on the bottom.

Which way do these darn things go, and if I did the first one upside down, do I have to pull it?

002.jpg003.jpg
 
The first picture (on left) is correct. The numbers on a seal always go outward, and the spring-loaded lip always goes inward.
 
That's why I said it was confusing, the numbers were downward (inward) on the originals. And both the originals and new ones have springs on both sides.

So, you are saying the photo on the left faces upward in this case? If so, good, because that's how I did the first one.
 
Interesting that both sets had springs on both sides, the replacement seals for my 450 forks were like all that I've used in the past, only a spring-loaded lip on the underside. Without having the seals in my hands and only having those 2 pictures to go by, I'd say the picture on the left is correct.
 
Think of an oil seal as a circular squeegee ......The "point" of the triangular cross-section "blade(s)" must point AT the oil supply.......
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom