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Home stretch 68 CB350 K0 plus....

I remember Outobie(from HT)saying that the CB350K0-K2 has the smaller pump;he also said that the K3's were a year where they started switching better parts into it(depending on the engine #..),then the CB350K4 was the fully improved model/year with the 19mm pump,etc.
 
Well,from what I gather from Outobie's posts back when I first joined hondatwins.net,the CB350K3(usually 1971'?)was the model/year for many improvements in the engine.
The CB350K4/1972ish? was the model/year for the 'fully updated & improved' engine assembly.
What else changed/improved other than oil pump and skinny cam?
 
Increased oil flow in later engines is mentioned in the CB350 service bulletins #23 and #25 from 1971 and 72.
I assume this relates to the oil pump changes.
View attachment 24972
Great find. I think I should pull left side cover to check gaskets too, although this motor only has 25 miles on it. So, K0- K2 CB/CL must have the small bore pump.
 
Cleaning out the lined tank was not so bad. I mixed the DeoxC to the standard concentration with hot water and left it sit in my shower stall to stay warm for about 8 hours. The liner had been stained brown from the rust which had formed on the cap and possibly some areas that were missed when the tank got lined. The liner now has the gray color that seemed to be the original color seen just outside the filler neck sealing area. I'm not sure what type of liner Randy Marble used. There is still some lighter staining further in along the outer walls that can be seen but it is much better and after rinsing the tank with hot water 2 or 3 times only a very small amount of particles came out. I'm not worried about flash rust as it is lined and only the filler mouth is bare metal. I'm calling it good to go.

lXSKmMA.jpg
 
While this awaits it's turn (I know it's been awhile), I look at it for reference on wiring and cables. I noticed this mystery relay that John (outobie) put in. It's 20 amp fused to the battery and has separate sleeved wires running up to the headlight bucket, where it connects to the white (low beam) wire between the right control to the sealed beam. It is grounded both at the battery neg and the headlamp rim. I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why he put in in. What could be it's purpose or benefit? Could it be that the stator is insufficient for the headlight and this supplies direct battery power to it? The headlight is a replaceable bulb, Stanley, of similar wattage to my other 350's.
Part of me wants to remove this relay and just connect the white wires in the normal OEM way but I'd like to comprehend outobie's logic here before doing so. I did go to the old place and try to read his threads that may have entailed this build but I don't recall seeing anything, or I missed it.
CabwbYN.jpg



The light blue and red wires are from the relay connected between the regular white wire connectors.
YmCgjQi.jpg



Failing the brilliant minds here explaining the reason for this relay's existence, I could text John, but he may have his boat on his mind, well maybe his track bike too. At least he can't be too disappointed in my little progress (the tank is clean!) because he let this one languish for more than a couple years.
 
I agree with LDR. Since in the OE harness all the power goes through the key switch putting the headlight onto a separate circuit improves both the headlight and ignition performance.

On my 2003 BMW R1150RT both the 2 stick coils and the secondary plugs were fed through the key switch. BMW made a running change and put the stick coils onto a separate circuit via a relay. I followed another posters directions and separated out the stick coils. Made a difference to starting making it quicker and to a smoother idle. I believe it may also help with longevity for the stick coils.

On my CL350 I run an LED headlight and switch gear that allows the headlight to be turned off so don't feel a separate circuit is warranted but since yours is already in place I would leave it.
 
Glad I asked the questions. I may eventually learn to comprehend some basics, with you guys help.
I agree with LDR. Since in the OE harness all the power goes through the key switch putting the headlight onto a separate circuit improves both the headlight and ignition performance.

On my 2003 BMW R1150RT both the 2 stick coils and the secondary plugs were fed through the key switch. BMW made a running change and put the stick coils onto a separate circuit via a relay. I followed another posters directions and separated out the stick coils. Made a difference to starting making it quicker and to a smoother idle. I believe it may also help with longevity for the stick coils.

On my CL350 I run an LED headlight and switch gear that allows the headlight to be turned off so don't feel a separate circuit is warranted but since yours is already in place I would leave it.
This K0 has the off/L/H switch too. Not sure if that is what you mean.
This K0 also has only 2 stator wires (no white), maybe a Rick's or Charlie's, would this also be a part of the story?

RUNAXPp.jpg



Edit: He also had a 30amp fuse in the switched power fuseholder, seems ballsy.
 
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I do not believe that stator plug is original, so it would seem by the clean sheathing and more modern connector that something was done there, whether aftermarket or just properly wired by John (along with what looks like a Sparck Moto rec/reg). Or maybe it's all Rick's stuff, I'm not that familiar.
 
I've read where people use a relay for direct headlight power from the battery on the theory that the wiring harness and associated connectors are decreasing the available voltage.

Yes, with building the three 450's, and building an adapted wire harness for the K1/ K2 rider (adding a few things), I also added a few small relays for switching main power to the headlight directly (1 relay for switching on/off, 1 relay for hi/lo, and 1 relay for an extra electric oil pump (pumps oil to the cams before starting the engine).

If you look at the route that electricity has to take to reach the headlight, compared with a relay, it saves a few connectors and switch gear contacts.
 
I do not believe that stator plug is original, so it would seem by the clean sheathing and more modern connector that something was done there, whether aftermarket or just properly wired by John (along with what looks like a Sparck Moto rec/reg). Or maybe it's all Rick's stuff, I'm not that familiar.
Right. John did change several things, including the stator, I'm pretty sure. It's interesting to me to try to reverse comprehend the why and wherefore of these things.
 
Yes, with building the three 450's, and building an adapted wire harness for the K1/ K2 rider (adding a few things), I also added a few small relays for switching main power to the headlight directly (1 relay for switching on/off, 1 relay for hi/lo, and 1 relay for an extra electric oil pump (pumps oil to the cams before starting the engine).

If you look at the route that electricity has to take to reach the headlight, compared with a relay, it saves a few connectors and switch gear contacts.
It's very interesting to hear how you've improved the efficiency of both the charging and lubrication systems on these old bikes.
It appears that with only one relay added to the low beam circuit there is not battery power for the high beam. Perhaps John felt that High beam would not be used as much and alternator power was enough.
 
Here is a Rick's kit that came in a spares box with the spares bike (black hole), maybe a few years old.
The stator only has 2 wires. I'm thinking it may be a high output one and the 3rd boost coil is connected right in the stator wiring, no need for the OE white un-rectified wire that gets connected to the OE yellow stator output in the right switchgear. The instructions say to remove the OE regulator and use this new combo rec/reg unit. Full time boosted charging must be handled by the new regulator function, I'm guessing.
Another 20amp fuse, must be normal.

My (John's) K0 bike is shown above with a similar 2 wire stator output (no white 3rd wire), perhaps it too is a high output stator chosen by John.

I don't know if this would have any bearing on John's choice to use a relay for the low beam HL power or not. Looking at the switchgear schematic, it does not appear the high beam circuit is also supported by the battery via the relay, but an increased charging from the new stator. might be enough.

RdJDK2d.jpg




Buying John's bike was like paying tuition for an education I never got. Thanks all for your comments.
 
It's very interesting to hear how you've improved the efficiency of both the charging and lubrication systems on these old bikes.
It appears that with only one relay added to the low beam circuit there is not battery power for the high beam. Perhaps John felt that High beam would not be used as much and alternator power was enough.

The main switch and wire harnesses between the US and the Dutch / German version of the K1's differ.
 
So BB this is now your bike? I went back through this thread and it seems to be the case. You may have another thread posted where you acquired the bike originally from John that I missed.
 
So BB this is now your bike? I went back through this thread and it seems to be the case. You may have another thread posted where you acquired the bike originally from John that I missed.
Yes, I bought it last year in September from John (outobie at HT). This is the only thread I've started but it may be in the 'Bikes for sale' where everyone here goaded me into the purchase. Reasoning was pretty simple: A. It was close enough to me, and B. It was a good deal. John had lowered his ask at least a couple times but, surprisingly, had no interested parties. I really enjoyed chatting with him for a couple hours about it and 350's in general when I showed up with my trailer. Haggling consisted of both of us agreeing that it was worth way more, but he was content to pass it to me for little more than what he had in the paint job. I think it pleased him to finish off his vintage 350 builder phase in an enjoyable way. He said he had already sold off a large inventory (a box truck full) of his 350 stuff, and this bike, that was to be his keeper was the very last of all that. He just wanted to clear the deck, literally, as he spends most of his time restoring a vintage cruiser type boat for his family. He still has a couple bikes, both 400's, one for the street and one for his continued amateur racing interest. I'd love to meet up with him this summer when goes to the track, just to watch and learn.

I'll admit, I haven't done all that much with so far, only really cleaning the tank and investigating a possible imperfection in the oiling that he suspected. For one thing, I had just gotten into my Mousetown build and was still sorting out both my blue Dream and CB160, also fixing the top end of the C200 and inheriting Charles' 73 CB350G. When it rains, it pours, I guess.
I do plan on contacting John to say hi and update on the bike, once I get into the oiling issue and have something to report. This thread has a ways to go for sure.
 
Great back story BB as I was a member on the old forum a number of years ago before Vertiscope got seriously involved and not overly active. I did do a lot of carb rebuilds/cleanings for members for awhile over there. Yet I don't remember John or outobie. I do remember a number of the members who are now the administrators here, or others. What happened to "TOOLS"? He was a knowledgeable member and big time poster I recall.

I had a brand new 1968? CB350K0 back in the day that was the green colour and white. I had it for about a year, as I changed bikes pretty often back then. A number of BB's and a Hellcat and eventually an early 70's CB750 SOHC. Then retirement from riding for a long time.

So it brings back some memories with those knee pads and the 10K redline IIRC. It saw that on a regular basis. ;)
 
Great back story BB as I was a member on the old forum a number of years ago before Vertiscope got seriously involved and not overly active. I did do a lot of carb rebuilds/cleanings for members for awhile over there. Yet I don't remember John or outobie. I do remember a number of the members who are now the administrators here, or others. What happened to "TOOLS"? He was a knowledgeable member and big time poster I recall.

I had a brand new 1968? CB350K0 back in the day that was the green colour and white. I had it for about a year, as I changed bikes pretty often back then. A number of BB's and a Hellcat and eventually an early 70's CB750 SOHC. Then retirement from riding for a long time.

So it brings back some memories with those knee pads and the 10K redline IIRC. It saw that on a regular basis. ;)
I was at the old place for just a few months when I was putting my Benly together but do remember Tools and others. It was Ancientdad who greeted me there and here too. I barely remember Outobie, as he was a 350 guy and I hadn't realized my longing for 350's .....yet, and so I spent most time on the FB Benly groups and it was great back then, but they waned and VHT waxed greater. I'm staying put for sure right here.
Funny how life and different bikes takes one in many directions. I bet your green 350 was pretty. I'd wanted a 350 since before I got my first real bike, the '80 Suzi 750 in 2010. Although just buying 3 barn find 350's in the last 3 years and wrenching on Charles (Mr.Greenjeans), last year they exploded into 6 different 350's currently. Sure, I'll get the downsizing bug someday but would enjoy getting them all up and running. Plus a few others on the long term docket.
This K0's staying on deck and I'm excited to ride it for sure, hopefully for a lot of this summer. This wiring side trip is good, as I finish Mousetown's wiring.
 
I did the oil transfer mod to the moving piece. Opened it up from .513 to .550, but no shaving on the center pipe on the cover.
I'll be getting serious on this project fairly soon. The carbs will get done in tandem with Mousetown's.
 
I did a cold compression test before getting back to this one. 188 left cylinder and 182 right. Time to drain oil and find the rubber sealing ball, or whatever.
I was feeling for slack in the linkage shifter and noticed a mm of play in the shifter shaft. No leakage apparent.

Bit by bit, I'll get it up and running. It can't yet be the sole focus here as there is a beached whale (GS750) in the shop taking up a lot of space.
 
I had a brand new 1968? CB350K0 back in the day that was the green colour and white. I had it for about a year, as I changed bikes pretty often back then. A number of BB's and a Hellcat and eventually an early 70's CB750 SOHC. Then retirement from riding for a long time.

So it brings back some memories with those knee pads and the 10K redline IIRC. It saw that on a regular basis. ;)
The 350 is fun to take out because of the number of folks that have some memory about it. Great deal of nostalgia involved. They had one. A friend had one. Or a father or uncle. It was their first bike. Gave girls rides on them. You name it.

I’ve had people pass me, turn around and rush back to talk about it.

Glad I can make them happy.
 
Bit by bit looking into this motor.
Drained the cloudy 8 year old oil and found a lump of possible sealant on the plug magnet. Somewhere between 25 and 150 miles on this oil, I'd expect. Not sure if John (outobie) did a first start oil change or not.
axipchB.jpg


Next was to pull the right cover and check the oil filter which did have a damaged Oring on the filter lid. I had previously cleaned the cup and blew air through the cover channels, just forgot about that Oring. I guess that could cause a drop in oil flow. There seemed to be concern on John's part about oil flow, mainly a missing sealing rubber ball and an older style smaller pump piston.
The pump has an aluminum body and so must be the later 19mm larger pump. There is no locking bolt tab strip on it.
I think John did not put this side of the motor together, besides, he would know for sure if the sealing ball was in place.
mSueGM3.jpg


The obligatory dental probe shot showing the ball is in there. I could feel it's spherical shape as well.
qmmpWun.jpg


Looking around, I can see the 0.25 stamp on the piston domes through the spark plug hole and fresh cross hatching on the cylinder walls.
Also the exhaust ports are very smooth showing it has been worked there. Very faint rust on the valve says they are probably not stainless or titanium.
cCSTC0p.jpg


The intake ports look very opened and smoothed with a center rib (to promote swirling, I've heard). There looks to be smooth reaming from the edge of the seats into the ports. Were new seats or fresh cuts involved? I'm not familiar enough to guess if the valves have been oversized or are stock but overall it shows much work has been done to this head to maximize breathing.
A66ROBl.jpg



I'll pull the left side cover and see what's up, also blow through the main oil channel for grins.

I do know it's got great compression (180 in both) and good oiling up to the cam box so I'm running out of ideas to find 'the smoking gun' for John's concern that something just isn't right. He spoke of a possible missing ball and older 14mm oil pump only because he did not do that work, I guess.
I'm scratching my noggin for further investigation of potential problems. Any ideas?
It is impossible to know the oiling status of the bottom end/ rod big ends/ rod small ends/ cylinder walls/ rings etc. without a total disassembly but that does seem unlikely.

I better get the carbs done and prepare for a start up.
 
Bit by bit looking into this motor.
Drained the cloudy 8 year old oil and found a lump of possible sealant on the plug magnet. Somewhere between 25 and 150 miles on this oil, I'd expect. Not sure if John (outobie) did a first start oil change or not.
axipchB.jpg


Next was to pull the right cover and check the oil filter which did have a damaged Oring on the filter lid. I had previously cleaned the cup and blew air through the cover channels, just forgot about that Oring. I guess that could cause a drop in oil flow. There seemed to be concern on John's part about oil flow, mainly a missing sealing rubber ball and an older style smaller pump piston.
The pump has an aluminum body and so must be the later 19mm larger pump. There is no locking bolt tab strip on it.
I think John did not put this side of the motor together, besides, he would know for sure if the sealing ball was in place.
mSueGM3.jpg


The obligatory dental probe shot showing the ball is in there. I could feel it's spherical shape as well.
qmmpWun.jpg


Looking around, I can see the 0.25 stamp on the piston domes through the spark plug hole and fresh cross hatching on the cylinder walls.
Also the exhaust ports are very smooth showing it has been worked there. Very faint rust on the valve says they are probably not stainless or titanium.
cCSTC0p.jpg


The intake ports look very opened and smoothed with a center rib (to promote swirling, I've heard). There looks to be smooth reaming from the edge of the seats into the ports. Were new seats or fresh cuts involved? I'm not familiar enough to guess if the valves have been oversized or are stock but overall it shows much work has been done to this head to maximize breathing.
A66ROBl.jpg



I'll pull the left side cover and see what's up, also blow through the main oil channel for grins.

I do know it's got great compression (180 in both) and good oiling up to the cam box so I'm running out of ideas to find 'the smoking gun' for John's concern that something just isn't right. He spoke of a possible missing ball and older 14mm oil pump only because he did not do that work, I guess.
I'm scratching my noggin for further investigation of potential problems. Any ideas?
It is impossible to know the oiling status of the bottom end/ rod big ends/ rod small ends/ cylinder walls/ rings etc. without a total disassembly but that does seem unlikely.

I better get the carbs done and prepare for a start up.
Your CB350K0 fully restored machine is looking very good.
I think John is a bit OC on making sure to 'touch all the bases' himself.
Good work.
The engine in there,is it a K0 or K3/4??
 
Your CB350K0 fully restored machine is looking very good.
I think John is a bit OC on making sure to 'touch all the bases' himself.
Good work.
The engine in there,is it a K0 or K3/4??
He probably is and we may be too. Maybe he was just making a general disclaimer in case anything went awry.
There is a lot of good work, money and harder to find parts here, so I don't want to miss anything.

It starts it's number with a 4, so it's a K4 (1972).

I've been meaning to contact him with a progress report and to say hello, also to see if he's still racing. It's been almost a year since I brought it home but that's better than the 8 years it sat for him. Such is life.
 
The carbs on this have nice shiny tops but not perfect at all. Both floats have leaks , jets are OEM 105, 70, 35 and one of the bowls had a torn gasket and a helicoiled 6mmx1.0 thread screw in the drain.
vilhjcQ.jpg




This pic shows, what seems a stock alternator, stock 16 tooth front sprocket (stock 36 tooth rear) and the misrouted starter cable. I later corrected the cable, as Tom pointed out.
zXlY4kO.jpg




I suppose I should remove the left cover to inspect the oilway turn up through the rear stud, even though I've already seen flow from the upper bolt next to the points cover.
I still have a feeling I may discover other issues with this motor. Remembering John asking me if I had a spare engine.
 
I have some nice floaty floats in my stash, let me know what you need. Added bonus, they are oem. Other oem carb parts available also.
 
I have some nice floaty floats in my stash, let me know what you need. Added bonus, they are oem. Other oem carb parts available also.
That's very generous of you Damien. OEM floats should contain genuine Japanese air, as well.
Remember you supplied the carb body for the set that is on my Mousetown build, which I still need to tune out the burbling stumble between 2-4K rpm.

There is no rush because I borrowed the 722A carbs from another future project (A Mom's bike: 72 CB350). Both sets had 1 leaker so I've got an intact pair to proceed with. I'll also use one of the bowls so I can use my clear tube level checker with the proper 6x .75mm thread.


The Mom's bike carbs will need some work anyway, with a broke choke flapper spring (ugh) and an order for Scrambler Cyle parts new chrome tops, 2 kits (to get new 68 jets, in the 3D kits) and, what the heck, 2 more floats filled with unspecified Asian air. Maybe an extra petcock too.

Hopefully, I can re-use the diaphragms without risking any transmissible carburetor diseases. With all these 350's around here, it's like a 'swingers party' parts wise.
 
That's very generous of you Damien. OEM floats should contain genuine Japanese air, as well.
Remember you supplied the carb body for the set that is on my Mousetown build, which I still need to tune out the burbling stumble between 2-4K rpm.

There is no rush because I borrowed the 722A carbs from another future project (A Mom's bike: 72 CB350). Both sets had 1 leaker so I've got an intact pair to proceed with. I'll also use one of the bowls so I can use my clear tube level checker with the proper 6x .75mm thread.


The Mom's bike carbs will need some work anyway, with a broke choke flapper spring (ugh) and an order for Scrambler Cyle parts new chrome tops, 2 kits (to get new 68 jets, in the 3D kits) and, what the heck, 2 more floats filled with unspecified Asian air. Maybe an extra petcock too.

Hopefully, I can re-use the diaphragms without risking any transmissible carburetor diseases. With all these 350's around here, it's like a 'swingers party' parts wise.
You make me laugh out loud. "Japanese air" and "swingers party parts wise" :LOL:
 
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Do you own something like this? I keep genuine Keihin jets on hand for reference to evaluate all third party jet bore size. I am surprised at some of the variances.

 
It's very warm here tonight where I am in SoCal. 104 at 6:30pm. Just thought I would mention that for some reason.
 
Do you own something like this? I keep genuine Keihin jets on hand for reference to evaluate all third party jet bore size. I am surprised at some of the variances.

I'm sure that would be very handy. I just have my numbered drill bit set and a handful of guitar strings ends which I check with my micrometer. I was surprised to be able to actually see the difference between a 68 and a 70 jet hole with a white background and a decent magnifiying glass. There is some variation in different aftermarket jets. I've found quite a bit of differences in the cross hole drillings in the idle jets and emulsion tubes.
I did find the Keyster and Scrambler kits to be pretty good on jet sizes and ended up using the 70's from Keyster in the Mousetown carbs. Jim has 68's for these later 722A carbs and that may be my stumbling block there.

I think PJ had some secret sauce on this stuff but wasn't willing to cough up the whole treasure map for 350's.
 
The carbs are cleaned and back together. The nice viton preformed bowl gaskets from Sirrius Consolidated were still a little small and required being glued into the bowl channel. Instead of the my old can of Titebond Aviator type non-hardening gasket dressing, I decided to use this Permatex similar version. I don't really recommend it, if you're short on patience like me, as is takes forever to get the least bit tacky. I only waited a day before just slipping on the bowls and hoping I didn't pinch the Oring. I believe they are on ok but next time I'm going to use a tiny bead of fast set contact cement.
KNe5AS2.jpg


The jetting is the way I got it from Outobie, with a 70 primary jet (not the one the needle goes through) and a 35 for idle jet. Air screws were previously at 5/8th of a turn, as were other carbs being cleaned. It makes no sense to me to call this the primary and the one with the needle the secondary. Perhaps there is logic having to do with the order of function during acceleration.

I removed the left engine side cover and blew out the main transverse oil channel, which I knew was clear but now cofirmed and clean.
I will remove the entire clutch and oil pump to inspect the shifter mechanism just to be sure it all looks good.
The valves were a little tight (new engine break in, not surprising) and the cam chain didn't budge when retensioned as per the book.

Not much left to explore, with the motor in (Jensen probably would do it), looking for reasons why Outobie sidelined this bike 9 years ago. Time to put on the carbs, new battery, petcock, etc. and yell, "Fire in the hole".
 
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The carbs are cleaned and back together. The nice viton preformed bowl gaskets from Sirrius Consolidated were still a little small and required being glued into the bowl channel. Instead of the my old can of Titebond Aviator type non-hardening gasket dressing, I decided to use this Permatex similar version. I don't really recommend it, if you're short on patience like me, as is takes forever to get the least bit tacky. I only waited a day before just slipping on the bowls and hoping I didn't pinch the Oring. I believe they are on ok but next time I'm going to use a tiny bead of fast set contact cement.
KNe5AS2.jpg


The jetting is the way I got it from Outobie, with a 70 primary jet (not the one the needle goes through) and a 35 for idle jet. Air screws were previously at 5/8th of a turn, as were other carbs being cleaned. It makes no sense to me to call this the primary and the one with the needle the secondary. Perhaps there is logic having to do with the order of function during acceleration.

I removed the left engine side cover and blew out the main transverse oil channel, which I new was clear but now cofirmed and clean.
I will remove the entire clutch and oil pump to inspect the shifter mechanism just to be sure it all looks good.
The valves were a little tight (new engine break in, not surprising) and the cam chain didn't budge when retensioned as per the book.

Not much left to explore, looking for reasons why Outobie sidelined this bike 9 years ago. Time to put on the carbs, new battery, petcock, etc. and yell, "Fire in the hole".
The carbs look to have cleaned-up decently (y)
I look forward to you putting the key into the ign. switch and 'fire that mutha' Up' ! :)
Then you can check that 'check bolt' for oil flow on the cyl. head and feel satisfied to take it for a ride;getting the opportunity to do these things from 'above ground' (y) your a Blessed man.
I hope you can have a person in town take a picture of you sitting on that bike ;)
 
The carbs look to have cleaned-up decently (y)
I look forward to you putting the key into the ign. switch and 'fire that mutha' Up' ! :)
Then you can check that 'check bolt' for oil flow on the cyl. head and feel satisfied to take it for a ride;getting the opportunity to do these things from 'above ground' (y) your a Blessed man.
I hope you can have a person in town take a picture of you sitting on that bike ;)
Thanks Bill. Hard to believe a whole year slipped by.

Since it's thoroughly drained, I'll check that bolt for oil to the head and then blood to the brain. You're right it is a blessing, for both of us, to be alive to even know that.
I'll get that pic in a couple weeks when Charles will be around for a bit, if not sooner.
 
Thanks Bill. Hard to believe a whole year slipped by.

Since it's thoroughly drained, I'll check that bolt for oil to the head and then blood to the brain. You're right it is a blessing, for both of us, to be alive to even know that.
I'll get that pic in a couple weeks when Charles will be around for a bit, if not sooner.
Charles may come back and get a chance to ride his black CA77 around a bit.
 
Even though I already found the rubber sealing ball in place, I pulled the clutch and oil pump just to check the shift drum stopper and the star wheel screw, etc. They were great, so many new parts, but I swapped in the NOS oil pump even though the one in it was in great shape too.
Waiting for a new locking washer for the crank notched nut, it was missing, as was the one on the oil pump. Probably not a big deal but the crank one will make me feel better.
I don't know why there were 2 new shift drum stoppers in the stash but the shifter stepped smoothly through all gears. All the clutch parts looked new with stock springs, which is fine with me.
CwFDoXS.jpg


Under the oil pump I wiped out just a bit more black sediment than I expected and a couple small lint balls. This paper towel was oily to start with but most of the black stuff did come from that sump area. I think this motor had been run for a lot more than 50 miles before he parked it. Maybe under the windage tray hadn't been completely cleaned and some of that got loosened and mixed in. It did not help my chronic plugged crank pin anxiety/paranoia though. At least I'm not floatin' down de Nile. The oil was definitely dirty and needed changed.
vCqKuAf.jpg



Here is the mystery motor, a CL no less, and a K4. Whatever fancy build goodies (Megacycle cam) or regrettable errors or oversights this baby has will remain hidden for now.
JVRDPSI.jpg
 
Steps of progress.
Will you respond proactively to your "chronic plugged crank pin anxiety/paranoia" by possibly blowing air through the splined end of the crankshaft,to see if it 'blows-through' it,w/o building-up pressure internally ?
I hope it will.
 
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