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Front brake hub rebuild

tomeben

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2021
Total Posts
1,365
Total likes
1
Location
Cobden IL USA
1982 CM450E
I’m cleaning/rebuilding my brake hubs before I reinstall the wheels. Upon disassembly I noticed a thin film of oil(?) on the brake cams, yet the FSM doesn’t show to lubricate them.
a29f7b2fd654a5a1ed47df10558045db.jpg

It does show to lubricate the soft seals on the brake arm end; is that what “oils” the cams? Do you add grease or oil to the cam itself?
Thanks all, cheers!


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
I put a very thin film of grease on the shaft when out but I've never actually oiled the felt seals. I don't put anything on the cams. I can see putting a thin film of grease on the posts where the shoes pivot on the DLS front drum brake as well.
 
Thanks, Tom, and thanks, Alan!
So on the cam itself, between the pivot lobe for the brake shoes and the splined end, where it rotates inside the hub itself, no lubricant?
My apologies if I misunderstood. I see where the pivot points, where it contacts the brake shoe, need to be greased.
 
I use white lithium grease sparingly where the shaft goes through the brake-plate, and where the shoes fit and are activated by the shaft, (and any shoe pivot points)
 
Got a few parts cleaned while waiting on brake shoes and bearings… plenty more to do.
c1760d64819d74d1a9fcb2f0f1f11ed7.jpg



Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
Old front wheel bearings removed don’t know if they are original, but stamped with Koyo Japan on the seal.
751bfa59bedf166a1cd59516db1dda2e.jpg


New All Balls sealed bearings going in, do I still need some grease on the distance collar and inside the dust seals? Thanks, folks.


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
I've greased the in- and outside of the distance collar thinking it can't hurt and will help to prevent rust and unnecessary noise.
 
I've greased the in- and outside of the distance collar thinking it can't hurt and will help to prevent rust and unnecessary noise.

My thinking as well, since a properly packed (original) bearing would essentially grease both ends of the distance collar. I’ll grease it, and add some to the insides of the dust seals. And a light film on the axle.
Thank you, sir!


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
I’m glad to post, pending a test ride, that I have successfully replaced the front tire, both front wheel bearings, and the brake shoes on my 39 year old motorcycle! All of this for the first time… ever, on any motorcycle.
There was a lot of old grease, and gunk, and brake dust in there… whew.
Big thanks to everyone, who all make this a great place to learn, build confidence, and accomplish new things. Cheers!

(I should’ve taken more pictures. Stay tuned for the rear wheel, and swingarm.)


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
Glad all is back together successfully.

(I should’ve taken more pictures. Stay tuned for the rear wheel, and swingarm.)

You are henceforth required to take and post many pictures of the rear brake and swingarm efforts. :neutral:
 
Obligatory photo…
1a3ec9f58e062e8c96485e186bd5a854.jpg

Brake cable and speedometer not yet re-attached, and torque link not torqued. Axle nut and holder torqued before lowering the front end.
Safety strap installed for the upcoming rear wheel work - thanks again for this tip.

Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
Looks good. Don't forget to align the 90° tang on the lock tab for the torque strap bolt in the last hole in the torque strap before tightening, and don't forget the cotter pin in the brake arm to retain the brake cable if/when you disconnect the upper end of the cable.
 
Looks good. Don't forget to align the 90° tang on the lock tab for the torque strap bolt in the last hole in the torque strap before tightening, and don't forget the cotter pin in the brake arm to retain the brake cable if/when you disconnect the upper end of the cable.

I have the lock tab. I’ve never had a cotter pin in the brake arm, but I just looked and it’s shown in the FSM, and the parts fiche. Is this only used when disconnecting the upper end of the brake cable?

(Wish I had castle nuts and drilled axles so I could use those cool hitch pin clips.[emoji41])


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
I have the lock tab. I’ve never had a cotter pin in the brake arm, but I just looked and it’s shown in the FSM, and the parts fiche. Is this only used when disconnecting the upper end of the brake cable?

I see the lock tab on the bolt, I was just reminding you to locate it correctly before tightening and bending the tab. The cotter pin in the brake arm is intended to be there all the time, really isn't a safety item but it came that way when delivered new. When you have assembled bikes new out of the crate like many of us have at dealerships, you remember doing little things like this.
 
The cotter pin in the brake arm is intended to be there all the time, really isn't a safety item but it came that way when delivered new.

Got it, and no worries. I appreciate any reminders, anytime! [emoji1303]
Now I’ll need help installing this cotter pin… I see the hole in the brake arm, does the pin slide above/below the cable, as a stop for the plug on the cable end?


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
Now I’ll need help installing this cotter pin… I see the hole in the brake arm, does the pin slide above/below the cable, as a stop for the plug on the cable end?

It goes through the arm (holes on both sides), 90° to the cable and sits in front of the cable so when you remove the cable from the front brake lever on the bars for whatever reason, the cable doesn't slide forward and fall out of the slot in the arm
 
^^^^^
I get it now, thanks. It wasn’t following how I remembered removing the cable… oh look, there’s a picture! Doh.


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
They do; bright overhead lighting, and a bit of sunlight in the garage door, works great. I got my rim polished and some of the brake hub, the right side looks better, but a lot of it would look the same closeup - my shiny brake arm parts mask some of it, too.
The thought is what counts, and I appreciate it. Cheers [emoji482]


Tom - 1982 CM450E
 
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