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Clutch actuation mod…..SL350K1

Mikepacific60

Mikepacific60

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Total Posts
270
Total likes
23
Location
Brisbane, Australia
Hi all,

I’m progressing on reassembling my SL350K1 - many new engine parts, including clutch plates. Anyhow, came time to reattach the clutch cable and adjust the clutch.

I checked the manual for the procedure - didn’t look too complicated. I did pay attention as I’ve read about a ‘Clutch pop’ issue, where the clutch is over adjusted and the actuating ball bearings in the mechanism in the sprocket cover jump out of their slots, causing loss of clutch actuation.

I followed the documented process, counterclockwise on the actuator (“screw, adjusting”) until resistance, then 1/4 of a turn clockwise, then adjust the cable.

This is where the ‘fun’ started…when I followed that procedure, the “clutch, adjusting cam” would travel so far that it came free of the raised part of the housing which stops it rotating. Once that happens, there is no way you can set the clutch.

After several failed attempts, I actually adjusted the “clutch, adjusting cam” so that it was still, just, engaged with the raised rib that stops it rotating. Doing that it was possible to get the clutch working, but only by winding the cable adjusters a long way out.

I wasn’t happy with this.

I gave consideration as to possible causes…wrong ball bearing? No, correct ball bearing. Clutch actuating rod (“Rod, clutch lifted”) worn a bit short….no, I checked it against a brand new one. Perhaps the issue was because of the brand new clutch disks, which had been coated with oil before installation - maybe as that entire assembled mechanism is as thick as it will ever be, meaning the rod needs to be a bit longer to actuate the clutch - that is what the adjuster is meant to deal with. I imagine after running the bike the clutch pack will be a bit thinner, as the plates bed in.

In the end, I decided I was going to make a small spacer to go under the ball bearing - using my very basic lathing skills…

That has fixed the problem…now no problem with the adjusting cam coming free of the raised bit on the housing and nice amount of cable adjustment.

Here is s photo of the relevant bits, including the brass spacer I made (took several goes to get it right). The spacer isn’t a press fit, so I can remove it if it becomes unnecessary.

4BFE214A-442A-4C63-8316-DC68D4536A90.jpg

Sorry for the complex explanation of what is actually a pretty simple mechanism.

Cheers
Mike
 
I wonder if it's one of a couple possibilities at the other end of the clutch disengagement process - maybe one too many clutch plates making the stack thicker requiring more rod length, maybe the wrong clutch rod, or maybe the wrong lifter at the clutch end of the rod (if there is a difference between the CB/CL lifter and the SL350K1 lifter). Seems odd that the adjuster has to be extended so far before the rod and mechanism is "long" enough to push the clutch properly.
 
Thanks AD,
Don’t think the cause is any of those things…those parts (apart from the clutch plates) are the ones that were there originally (I am assuming that the PO hadn’t been in there playing around)….
I did stew over this a bit more…another (more troubling) cause would be if I left out the bearing locator 1/2 ring on that shaft when reassembling the cases…I was careful so don’t think that happened (the oil pump wouldn’t seat properly in that case).
Might pull off the side cover and take a look.
Cheers
Mike
 
I may be remembering incorrectly, but the spacer is the same as the 3 ball piece plus the threaded screw bit - so you just need to turn the screw on the outer cover CCW like a turn or two?

Also, not sure if mentioned, push rod length issue or clutch lifter piece issue?

Anyhow, thanks for sharing the solve!
 
Hi to all,

Okay, I stuffed up! Rookie error #3 with my SL rebuild.

So, here is what happened.

Went to have another look at the bike and continue work…..put it in gear and gave it a push (looking to see if the clutch releases properly) - guess what - no drive at all (bike just free-wheels).

Right, rip off the right hand engine cover to inspect clutch - pretty obvious why no drive - I can see clearly that there is no pressure on the clutch plates.

Scratches head (gets splinters!)

Then all is revealed…when I bolted on the clutch plate, I didn’t make sure it was properly engaged with the “clutch, centre”. It was sitting on top of the centre, not engaged with it (surprisingly, it looked quite normal).

Simple fix - loosen off springs and properly engage the clutch plate, retighten the four springs.

Guess what, now works (and adjusts) like it should (I removed my home made spacer as it isn’t required).

Apologies for the red herring & thanks for the suggestions. Another one of those cases of user error - a mistake I’ll never make again.

As an aside I noted some interesting things with the clutch springs - I’ll start another thread about that.

Cheers
Mike
 
Glad it was something simple Mike, I didn't think of that one but it certainly would change the length of the needed parts for disengagement. There HAD to be a reason when all the proper parts were installed and things didn't "line up" right.
 
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