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CB400 Fork Seal Removal

Yeah, I know the FSM says to use a "locking agent" on those bolts. I have yet to do it because I've encountered too many that were an absolute booger to remove. I rely on refurbishing or replacing the copper washer and torqueing the bolt.
 
If sliders are real bad you may need to start with 80 grit but I would avoid this if possible as it takes a lot of work to remove the scratches.
Maybe try 120 first and see how difficult it's going to be?
If you work up to 500~600 you could probably just Scotchbrite and re-lacquer if you want standard look.
As for holding damper rod down inside fork tube, several methods from whittled broom handle to special tools
esh21167 said:
Thanks for all the pointers. Yeah, I was just taking it too easy. Put a 2024 aluminum shim between the screwdriver and the fork for protection. The screwdriver flexed quite a bit (about 14" long), but they came out.

On a side note: the aluminum tubes are kind of ugly. Not pitted, but really stained. Where they originally clearcoated? I first thought to have them glass beaded. One friend said he thought they may be clearcoated originally, and the staining could be from moisture that got under the clearcoat. IDK.

I talked to a co-worker and he said he's known of people who have had them wet media blasted. Not glossy, but not 'textured' like dry blasting. He thought some motorcycle shops probably do it. Then perhaps clearcoat them afterward. (He also said he has a tool for seal installation.)

Any thoughts on refinishing?
Click to expand...
 
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LongDistanceRider said:
Yeah, I know the FSM says to use a "locking agent" on those bolts. I have yet to do it because I've encountered too many that were an absolute booger to remove. I rely on refurbishing or replacing the copper washer and torqueing the bolt.
Click to expand...
I've never put Loctite on one of the Allen head's holding damper rod in place.
Torquing up has always been enough, plus, as you said makes things real difficult for the next guy.
I have used a tiny amount of 1104 (same as Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Yamaha bonds) on threads to act as sealer and locking agent, always worked very well for me
 
He said he got it. I have heard multiple motorcycle mechanics say they don't do the thread locker because its always difficult to remove and if torqued properly with a new washer its not an issue.
 
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