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CB360G yard find — ongoing project log

Wow, I'm surprised how nice a 350 tank looks on 360.
The graphics are actually much better than what Honda did on 360.
How much work was involved getting it to fit?
Hey PJ, it is a tight squeeze, primarily because the channel under the tank that sits over the spine of the frame was slightly too narrow for the ignition coils. I expanded the width using a ball peen hammer. Didn't take too much convincing...

If I remember right, I also did something funny with the screws holding the coils on the bracket, but I'd have to check to be sure.
 
Suzuki GS850, 2mm oversize drop in conversion, been doing them for more than 15 years.
I thought 'everyone' with a 360 knew about it by now?
Get solid copper head and base gaskets from Lani at Copper Gaskets but bore cylinders first then dry assemble to find thickness combination to get about 0.037" 'squish'
Suzuki pistons are lighter than the originals and block/liner thickness is more on the Honda than the Suzuki so even going 1mm (max oversize) isn't a problem.
The performance gain is way out of proportion compared to the 22cc capacity increase and gives a genuine 110+mph bike (although you do need clip-on's and rear-sets to get there)
Stock 17/34 final drive gives a theoretical 127mph top end but I've never seen more than 115 ish.
If your prepared to rev it away from lights, it will shock much bigger more expensive bike riders :cool:
I'll find link on DTT
 
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Duly noted. Thanks for filling me in — when/if this bike needs a refresh I will be thinking about making that conversion.

Jim alluded to some secret knowledge you had about a piston choice once. I should have followed up on that earlier.
 
I had forgotten just how much I did back then, pictures of cylinder and pistons are on first page though.
I changed title a few years after starting posts
Did my first CJ250 to 390 around 1990 (maybe earlier, I forget)
That was a 14mm overbore, largest I've ever done.
That used Suzuki GS1000 pistons and liners and was a lot of work.
Been told Kawasaki Z1000 '70mm or 72mm race' piston fit for large sizes as the small end pin isn't oversize but as I've never been much of a Kawasaki fan never actually tried anything or even had parts to measure.
My sister did have a Z1B for years but it was always 'mostly complete after she started restoring it, her ex-husband always told everyone she was a better rider than him so he gave her his bike.
(actually, with 4 brothers and a crazy one to chase around she was a better rider than a lot of people)
I also have parts to make a CB425 using 75mm pistons and liners from Suzuki GS500 (worked in a Suzuki dealers for 8 years after working in Honda dealers so know a little about them );)
That conversion really needs early Suzuki1100 con rods with larger small end size though
https://www.dotheton.com/index.php?threads/cb360s-from-build-to-blog-2013-mds-mo-dumb-****.11736/
 
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That 350 tank really looks good on there! I always thought of the stock tank as one of the major cosmetic challenges of the 360. But maybe I’m partial. I’ve had a 350 tank on my first 360 but had to raise it 1” because the motor is also 350, which is taller:64898E72-4DAF-4433-8DF0-6C345D83F524.jpeg
Now, after the rebuild, I have a CB350F tank on there. I like it much better because it has factory “knee dents”, slightly more capacity, and no pesky crossover tubes. I had to relocate the petcock bung to the right side though. And while stock front mounts worked, I had to fabricate a new rear tank mount. But the stock Honda rear mounts IMHO make the tank flop around way too much when you press your knees against it.
F858B774-912E-48CF-9BFC-A9D72F53F387.jpeg
 
That 350 tank really looks good on there! I always thought of the stock tank as one of the major cosmetic challenges of the 360. But maybe I’m partial.
I agree. The decision to abandon the original tank was made by mother nature, but when I saw that 350 tank hanging up in the local salvage yard, I was determined to make it work.

Now, after the rebuild, I have a CB350F tank on there.
That looks good. The exhaust is 2-into-1? I imagine that modern muffler is pretty quiet.
 
That looks good. The exhaust is 2-into-1? I imagine that modern muffler is pretty quiet.
Both exhausts were 2into1. The old one I hastily fabbed from cannibalized stock headers. The current one I built with equally long primary tubes based on LDR’s recommendations for diameters and lengths. The muffler is actually pretty loud, quiet at idle but sounds good under load, no rasp! Ever looked into a modern dirt bike can? They’re pretty much straight thru with fiberglass mat insulation. Once I have the carbs back from crazy PJ I may add a lollipop baffle
 
Both exhausts were 2into1. The old one I hastily fabbed from cannibalized stock headers. The current one I built with equally long primary tubes based on LDR’s recommendations for diameters and lengths. The muffler is actually pretty loud, quiet at idle but sounds good under load, no rasp! Ever looked into a modern dirt bike can? They’re pretty much straight thru with fiberglass mat insulation. Once I have the carbs back from crazy PJ I may add a lollipop baffle
Nice work there. I bet it looks good under all that mummy wrap.
 
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Wow, I'm surprised how nice a 350 tank looks on 360. How much work was involved getting it to fit?
Here's a picture of the coil bracket. I mounted the coils on the underside to increase clearance between the coils and the tank.

OwbOhzx.jpg
 
Hehe, I know it’s not real popular around here, but serves a functional purpose on that bike. Pipes are single wall while OEM Is triple walled. The wrap keeps the heat in.

Edit: meant to quote ballbearian
 
Hehe, I know it’s not real popular around here, but serves a functional purpose on that bike. Pipes are single wall while OEM Is triple walled. The wrap keeps the heat in.

Edit: meant to quote ballbearian
I don't have a problem with the retained heat part of it, just the look of it because in a lot of cases it's not done well. Then again, I don't like the look of it even when it is done well, but to each their own.

AFAIK Honda pipes are only double-walled.
 
I don't have a problem with the retained heat part of it, just the look of it because in a lot of cases it's not done well. Then again, I don't like the look of it even when it is done well, but to each their own.

AFAIK Honda pipes are only double-walled.
74AF3B5B-27D1-4378-A507-2C6EDC0A8792.jpeg
 
What is that pipe from? And does the additional wall go all the way to the end of the header pipe? I wonder if it's only in the first few inches of the pipe near the head.
It’s from a CB350. Don’t know what year but had late style thick collars on the ends. I can cut some more and find out where it becomes 2 walled. I also have a CL pipe with muffler cut off. Single wall at the end…
 
It’s from a CB350. Don’t know what year but had late style thick collars on the ends. I can cut some more and find out where it becomes 2 walled. I also have a CL pipe with muffler cut off. Single wall at the end…
That's an interesting picture. I wonder if the center of the three layers is a relatively short piece of tube to position the inner tube centrally with the outer tube? Beyond a short distance, it seems like the central tube would end and there would be an air gap between the inner and the outer tubes. I always assumed that the air gap is what stopped some of the tendency for bluing. I appreciate your exploratory surgery on that pipe.
 
I found a used right side muffler on eBay in the fall and got a hole in it patched at a local motorcycle shop — the owner is a good welder and he did a nice job. Today, I finally made time to swap out the aftermarket Cracker Jack mufflers with the OEM variety.

hFBn7cq.jpg


I'm still in the market for a decent set of headers.
 
Nice bike. The aftermarket jets are wrong. I just cleaned mine thoroughly and carefully using welding tip cleaners and copper wire. When you have the carbs well synced, the bike is much more responsive.

Love the Green Tank.
 
One of my friends in town says something to that effect every time he sees it.

I was never fond of the tank design for the 360, except for the fact that it does not use a crossover tube.
Interesting, because to me the CB360 tank looks better. Maybe because I grew up looking at the later 350 tanks with dislike as they evolved from the early 350 look.
 
Interesting, because to me the CB360 tank looks better. Maybe because I grew up looking at the later 350 tanks with dislike as they evolved from the early 350 look.

Different strokes for different folks, I guess. I'm glad for that — it would be pretty boring if we all had the exact same tastes for bikes.
 
Hi Brody !
I like that CB350K4 tank on your CB360;the factory green and lines are much nicer than stock CB360,imo.
I was looking at your first post with the bike sitting in the pine needles:was that on your property? or the PO?
 
Hi Brody !
I like that CB350K4 tank on your CB360;the factory green and lines are much nicer than stock CB360,imo.
I was looking at your first post with the bike sitting in the pine needles:was that on your property? or the PO?
That was the PO's yard. He bought it new in Nebraska, brought it to Georgia around 1980 and never registered it there. He apparently wouldn't allow his sons to ride it and it was exposed to the elements for a good while. I pushed it out of that yard in 2014 and he gave me the title for the effort. A very nice guy. My parents lived two houses over at the time, but have since moved a few hours away.
 
That was the PO's yard. He bought it new in Nebraska, brought it to Georgia around 1980 and never registered it there. He apparently wouldn't allow his sons to ride it and it was exposed to the elements for a good while. I pushed it out of that yard in 2014 and he gave me the title for the effort. A very nice guy. My parents lived two houses over at the time, but have since moved a few hours away.
I think your green is a fitting tribute to it's Georgia pine rebirth.
 
Nice bike. The aftermarket jets are wrong. I just cleaned mine thoroughly and carefully using welding tip cleaners and copper wire.
The pilot jets in particular have a 0.60mm cross drilling in line with modern Kei-Hin pilots. (I've had brand new not NOS jets from Kei-Hin)
The original jets from 1960's to 77 had a 0.08mm cross drilling.
I always check and modify any I find 'undersized'
I always thought the three layer was to make end of pipe thicker where collar was welded to fit into head?
They are usually plug welded on side as well as being 1/4" wall thickness. Made a good seal that didn't distort like late models or aftermarket can plus made pipe look a lot larger while maintaining 'correct' inner diameter (if you look at a modern 300 with stainless single wall pipes, they look comically small)
 
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I've been looking for a set of decent headers for my CB360 and decided to order this set that came up on eBay. They aren't great, but appear better than mine and maybe I can have them re-chromed. I've never wanted to stop riding the bike to investigate re-chroming, so this will allow me to continue riding while I sort that out.


Screenshot_20240208-202513.png
 
Try using a chrome polish on them. My headers looked about that bad and they took a reasonable shine. They won't look new, but often are presentable.

Also, get rid of the shorty mufflers. CB360's like a longer exhaust, at least to the rear axle. The smoother low RPM and throttle response will thank you. I used these from Commonmotor.com

Common-Motor CB360 Muffler

I purchased these Headpipes and mufflers but the mufflers were rotted out thoroughly. Just used the headers:

Headpipes and Muffler.jpg


Polished the Headers and added the Common motor mufflers:

Test Fit Muffler on Header.jpg


Final result:

Right Side View Mufflers - Whole Bike.jpg


Muffler Right Rear Shot.jpg

The hardest part was getting a good clamp for the mufflers

I used these but they still work loose occasionally:

T Clamps.jpg

Good Luck....
 

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Also, get rid of the shorty mufflers. CB360's like a longer exhaust, at least to the rear axle. The smoother low RPM and throttle response will thank you. I used these from Commonmotor.com
I'm actually running OEM mufflers — the attached picture shows the headers I ordered. I thought about asking the seller to toss the shorties in the trash, but decided I will do that for them. =)

I've seen other sets on eBay with ratty OEM mufflers attached and one perk with these shorties is that the shipping was way cheaper.

Would you happen to have a suggestion for rear shocks? I'm planning to replace mine this season.
 
Look at Common-Motor.com. I've used him for a lot of my parts. He's a good guy. He has Stock shocks, heavy duty stock shocks, and Ikon shock (used to be Koni). The regular shocks are good, if you are a little larger than average (I am 50% more man than I was 30 years ago) the heavy duty will work. The Ikon are for enthusiastic riders. Are you shocks bad? Mine are still good, so I polished them, put them back on with new bushings. If they have damage or rust on the piston rod, then go ahead and replace them.
 
Look at Common-Motor.com. I've used him for a lot of my parts. He's a good guy. He has Stock shocks, heavy duty stock shocks, and Ikon shock (used to be Koni). The regular shocks are good, if you are a little larger than average (I am 50% more man than I was 30 years ago) the heavy duty will work. The Ikon are for enthusiastic riders. Are you shocks bad? Mine are still good, so I polished them, put them back on with new bushings. If they have damage or rust on the piston rod, then go ahead and replace them.
Thanks. I have purchased quite a bit from the CMC and include them in my comparison shopping, although 4-into-1 has become more of a go-to for me. I'll have a look both places.

I do have the OEM shocks, but they feel very underdamped. Probably four or five years ago I installed a cheap set of eBay shocks and they're okay — my reason for replacement is that a similar set broke on one of my other bikes and I'd rather replace them than take a chance on that happening again.
 
I do have the OEM shocks, but they feel very underdamped. Probably four or five years ago I installed a cheap set of eBay shocks and they're okay — my reason for replacement is that a similar set broke on one of my other bikes and I'd rather replace them than take a chance on that happening again.
They were under damped when new.
Only time I've ever seen them break is when the spacer was left out on the bottom mount and the 'legs' clamped tight to swing arm (swing arm had been removed and powder coated)
Broke shock bottom.
It was common 10~11 years ago on the $75.00 Chinese shocks when they were made with 1" gap instead of 7/8" and spacer washers not installed
 
I purchased some low-end Hagon's for $200 w/ tax;these shocks literally Damp the bumps. (y)
I did replace their standard 'Quad Rate' springs(too stiff for me)with a set of OEM Suzuki springs meant to fit one of their 250 enduros from the mid 70's and I'm pleased.
 
I would estimate that about 5–10% of my speculative eBay purchases don't go as planned. I recently received the set of used CB360 headers/mufflers that I purchased for the headers. It looks like the shorty mufflers were welded on. If I had welded them on that wouldn't be a problem, but this person seems to have known what they were doing.

RYNYsrd.jpg


So far, I haven't thought of a good strategy to salvage the headers without damaging them. Any ideas out there?
 
Do you think a wet saw could cut through the weld?
I've never used one, not sure what the capabilities are. If the weld was done right, and it looks like it, the depth of penetration might not be separated by just cutting through the weld itself. But, when you have nothing to lose, it would be worth a try.
 
I've used them to cut slate tile as well as a scrap of granite countertop that I use for as a flat surface for sanding. I bought the cheapest wet saw from HF for the tiles and I figure it's worth a try. I'll do a little Internet research first to see if there's any related information out there.
 
A 1/16" cut off wheel on an angle grinder would do it but are hard to precision control the depth at times. I would use a good old hack saw with a 28 tooth per inch blade and work my way around it gradually until it parts. Also would cut at the edge of the weld, leaving the weld and small collar to be removed after separation with a flap wheel or grinder.
No idea if a wet saw would work. It might but also ruin your diamond blade.
 
Correction: Hacksaw blade come 24 and 32 tpi but saws-all blade come 28 tpi. Bi-metal last longer. Thin material is better with higher tooth count. A variable speed saws-all (reciprocating saw) is a wonderful thing for home and shop.
 
I'm have to double check, but I think my saws-all only has two speeds: on and off.

If I can rig up my angle grinder in a fixed position, I may give that a go.
You'll be fine either way if you just go easy and check depth.
I still have my cheapy HF sawsall 1spd and it works fine but the one thing with them is to firmly mount the work piece (in a vice) or it jerks a lot (hammered flat many bent blades). A grinder, I can just hold the thing with my foot or hand.
 
I decided against trying the wet saw even though I like the idea of having the cutting blade in a fixed position so I could manipulate the piece being cut.

Instead, I went through about six Dremel cut-off wheels before switching to a larger cut-off wheel on my angle grinder. It was a little harder to control, but I got one muffler off without too much collateral damage.

9MEcg51.jpg
 
Seems to have worked out well overall. I think those headers could be a candidate for rechrome if completely cleaned out, which on them should not be too difficult to accomplish.
 
Post what the chromer says. I'd like to rechrome my headers, but no local ones. Didn't want to ship off my header pipes and find out it can't be done. The stock head pipes are double wall and I don't know if that is an issue or if the residue internally is an issue. I heard some chromers don't like exhaust components because it contaminates the chemicals.
 
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