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CA95 Barn Find

cmc44

Well-known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2024
Total Posts
66
Total likes
70
Location
Iowa
So in my search for parts for my '64 Dream project I just randomly ran a FB Marketplace search for "Honda Dream". Lo and behold I was surprised with something that wasn't a Dream at all, well a Baby Dream I guess. A gentlemen was selling a 1966 CA95 Benley with 6k miles. Within five minutes I purchased it sight unseen; I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Two weeks ago my area had 3 feet of snow. Last week we had four days straight in double digit negative HARD temperatures, and this week we've had 30°'s and nearly 2" of rain. By next Friday they are calling for a solid week of near 60°'s!!! So join me on my journey to get this little bike running in the next few days so I can take her out for a mid winter cruise!!!

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First things first, I ordered some odds and ends to alleviate the startup process. I have a battery, plugs, and points coming early next week. The inside of the tank it's pretty clean buts starting to get some gunk built up but it seems to be superficial; that's my project today, pulling the tank and cleaning it out.

I pulled the carb and it was the type with the secondary power jet. It was pretty cruddy but nothing a good bath in the ultrasonic wouldn't fix. With some guidance from Mr. @ballbearian I got a new bowl gasket ordered (16172-003-004), a new o ring, and I should be good to go.

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That barn must have been the Ritz! Rarely see them in such great shape. I don't even see the usual acid damage from the battery side.
I still need to do some paint resto on my friend's white Benly. I've got some Ford white that I haven't used yet but supposedly matches, I'll post results in my other build thread of the two Benly's.
Glad you found a bowl gasket, they can be a pain to find sometimes. Where did you get it from?
Also please post and document the size and location of those two jets related to the power jet circuit. I see the 100 on the air filter inlet side, the other is under the aluminum slotted cap screw with the red fiber washer. I think it is possible to mix up some of the jets and I may have done just that on Charles' bike.
Tires are also challenging to find but yours do look decent.
Be gentle with the original spark plug caps as one side is longer reach and hard to find.
Even your seat looks great and will be a great candidate for 'the treatment' to replace the old crumbly foam top layer and bottom spring protection layer. They can be quite comfortable.
 
That barn must have been the Ritz! Rarely see them in such great shape. I don't even see the usual acid damage from the battery side.
I still need to do some paint resto on my friend's white Benly. I've got some Ford white that I haven't used yet but supposedly matches, I'll post results in my other build thread of the two Benly's.
Glad you found a bowl gasket, they can be a pain to find sometimes. Where did you get it from?
Also please post and document the size and location of those two jets related to the power jet circuit. I see the 100 on the air filter inlet side, the other is under the aluminum slotted cap screw with the red fiber washer. I think it is possible to mix up some of the jets and I may have done just that on Charles' bike.
Tires are also challenging to find but yours do look decent.
Be gentle with the original spark plug caps as one side is longer reach and hard to find.
Even your seat looks great and will be a great candidate for 'the treatment' to replace the old crumbly foam top layer and bottom spring protection layer. They can be quite comfortable.
My main jet appears to be a 95, the one as you mentioned is a 100 and the power jet under the aluminum screw is a 140.1000003547.jpg
 
My main jet appears to be a 95, the one as you mentioned is a 100 and the power jet under the aluminum screw is a 140.
Thank you so much. Another niggling mystery about these carbs (there were several different, it seems) is now closer to revelation. Plus, maybe that will help get Charles bike '65 to run as fast as my '63.
I bet you got the carb covers too.
 
Thank you so much. Another niggling mystery about these carbs (there were several different, it seems) is now closer to revelation. Plus, maybe that will help get Charles bike '65 to run as fast as my '63.
I bet you got the carb covers too.
Of course!
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Also, I've been having luck with some of the harder to find OEM parts from NOS Parts Now.
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You did get a great deal. I hope NPN didn't make you sign over your first born for that, sometimes they are reasonable and the only ones.
I never leave gas in my carbs for these precious rubber parts sake. Alway run it dry with petcock off.

I love the way these sound without the baffles, you'll have to try that eventually.
 
While I'm waiting for a battery, plugs, and points, I did a little bit of polishing today (a lot of bit!!!). It took a really good shine with the polishing wheel.

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Even though the tank wasn't awful, I'm going to go ahead and clean it out; it's just starting to get a bit of gunk. I'm using diluted vinegar (2.5ish gallons) as the acid and some 3/8" nuts for breaking stuff up. I'll give it a couple shakes every few hours for 24 hours then empty it out, rinse it out with water and baking soda to neutralize the acidity, coat the tank with oil, then rinse with gas.

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@ballbearian - I'm going to be changing the oil on the Benly tomorrow. I'm having no luck on finding the oil capacity and recommended type; would you or anyone else know?

I suppose I should clean the oil filter while I'm at it? Is this schematic correct? Should I replace that o ring?

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@ballbearian - I'm going to be changing the oil on the Benly tomorrow. I'm having no luck on finding the oil capacity and recommended type; would you or anyone else know?

I suppose I should clean the oil filter while I'm at it? Is this schematic correct? Should I replace that o ring?

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Yes, definitely clean the filter. Even if it's not much, you'll want it clean to see if any stuff accumulates after you start riding, like rubber from a cam guide wheel, etc.
My FSM says 1.2 liters on page 139. Remember, the dip stick is checked without screwing it in. It's okay to run a smidge higher on the stick.
I only replace O-rings if they look worn. Watch out for that thin washer.
 
Finished polishing the Benly today. Cleaned the gas tank out. I'd say it was pretty successful; I'm not sure if I got some flash rust, but I'll run some treatment through it. I used vinegar for 24 hours shaking it with nuts and bolts. Drained that and rinsed it with water and baking soda to neutralize the acid. Added half a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and gave the inside a good coating then finally rinsed it out with gas. Got the oil changed, filter cleaned (must have been done recently, everything was very clean), and carb rebuilt. I'm ready to go, just waiting for a battery and carb bowl gasket!

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You'd better stop now or you'll have to wear sunglasses just to look at it, and you're make the Dream jealous.

claussstudios.com 3D prints those rubber covers for the clutch inspection widow.
 
Looks like the front sprocket cover got slightly cracked over the years, probably from a thrown chain. Also, I believe the JIS screw in the place that locks the clutch adjustment on the left crankcase cover should be a 6mm bolt (10mm head) but BB will verify. Won't matter functionally, but it jumped out at me because I don't think I've seen one with a screw before.
 
Looks like the front sprocket cover got slightly cracked over the years, probably from a thrown chain. Also, I believe the JIS screw in the place that locks the clutch adjustment on the left crankcase cover should be a 6mm bolt (10mm head) but BB will verify. Won't matter functionally, but it jumped out at me because I don't think I've seen one with a screw before.
They do crack easy in the upper rear corner if the last screw gets missed when removing (it's kind of hidden under side cover). There is a grease nipple next to the M6x1.0mm hex head clutch adjuster lock bolt that might look weird but it's right. The early ones don't have the rubber plug and window, mine was cracked, so now I have a window one because it also supports the clutch cable housing stop and needs be strong.

Edit: You're right it should be a hex head, just figured out it was magnifyable.
 
Now that I can see close up, there are a few things changed. No biggy, still a very nice looker, possibly repainted. Besides the petcock, the exhaust is all a new replacement, the plug caps (and probably coil), brake levers don't fit the perches perfect, headlight is not the original Stanley sealed beam (but now has a replaceable bulb, big plus). Does your key switch have 5 positions? Might be interesting inside the nacelle, behind the headlamp, to see the wiring if adapted to a replacement switch.
Please don't think I'm being critical, I would do the same mods/replacements. I can't wait to hear your impressions after a first ride.
 
Now that I can see close up, there are a few things changed. No biggy, still a very nice looker, possibly repainted. Besides the petcock, the exhaust is all a new replacement, the plug caps (and probably coil), brake levers don't fit the perches perfect, headlight is not the original Stanley sealed beam (but now has a replaceable bulb, big plus). Does your key switch have 5 positions? Might be interesting inside the nacelle, behind the headlamp, to see the wiring if adapted to a replacement switch.
Please don't think I'm being critical, I would do the same mods/replacements. I can't wait to hear your impressions after a first ride.
These are good things to know! It's definitely repainted; they painted right over the ground cable and other stuff.

It does have a 5 position ignition. My Dad and I were guessing what they were just today, haha. Can you enlighten me?

I finished the carb today, changed the points and plugs and got the battery in. I was hoping to fire it up today but the battery is taking longer on its initial charge. Tomorrow for sure!

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I went back looking for me posting on my battery for these, I thought I'd posted that here. I use an AGM that does require little clips to be made to attach but they are great and don't leak acid. Do check for an upgraded rectifier as an old one may push AC and batteries don't like that.

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Well you got that one, hope it works out. Our vendor Sparcksmoto has a good 6volt regulator/rectifier that I'm using. It does require mounting different. If you you don't clean all your groundings, bad things can happen.
 
Houston, we have a problem. Would anyone have a spare bowl with nipple in tact?

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Thank you for this!
The first position is starter only, no ignition. For cold weather priming before actual start. It actually says this in the Owner's manual. IDK if we have one of those in our library. I should look and get one to AD from my downloads, if not.
There are a few CA95 project builds going on and ICR which is who or what I've shared where.
Have you looked at any of those?
 
Swapped the Benly to the lift today. The starter motor is seized up, weak spark, and a carb leak.

I'm going to pull the starter motor and have it rebuilt.

I'm going to check the condenser tomorrow, but I'll more than like replace it and retime it according to the service manual.

My carb is flooding out the overflow; I'm guessing it's a stuck float it needle valve.

Lots more odds and ends to do now.

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Unscrew the spark plug caps and trim a 1/2" of wire then spread the wire strands with a pointy nail and screw caps back on.

Starters are pretty easy to rebuild. Mostly just get neglected and lack any lube. Grease dried up in the nose/ gear case. Clean commutator with scotch brite pad and check brush length not too short.

Carb bowl gaskets can hang up the float so it doesn't rise. When the gaskets get wet they swell and get floppy so let it dry and shrink back then use just a light smear of non-hardening gasket sealer (aviator type ) and place in the upper carb body then mount bowl to hold it in. I've given up on removing a bowl when carb is on the bike, just too hard to get it back right while it's upside down. Also, make sure the float itself is not upside down.

Static timing is only good to get the bike started but a strobe timing light is the best to tune it and also check the advance limit. Strobes are easy to use and cheap but you may need to use an extra 12volt battery (from the Dream) to power the strobe.
 
I forgot to mention and it bears repeating, that you should always run the bike with a fully charged battery or you run the risk of blowing your headlight or taillight. This is because these bikes rely on the battery to serve as a voltage regulator. A fully charged 6 volt should read 6.4 volts or better. I put mine on the slow charger (0.5-1.0 amp) when it drops below 6.0 volts.
 
Went through the ignition again. Double checked the points (my Dad showed me how to measure with a feeler gauge and adjust the points accordingly). We snipped off a bit of the plug wires and redid those as you suggested @ballbearian. But, the major fix was realizing they had the battery ground cable over a painted part of the frame. Once we fixed those things we had beautiful, bright, blue spark!

We checked the continuity of the starter cables from the button to solenoid and solenoid to starter and both were good. The solenoid is functioning too, so we're left with a bad starter for sure.

Unfortunately, I finally got my hands on some compression gauges, and it wasn't good. 45 and 60 psi; far from the 130 my manual calls for. I got my steel top installed this week so I've decided I'm just going to pull the whole engine and rebuild.

Question: any suggestions on where to look for engine stands for these little Honda engines?
 
Went through the ignition again. Double checked the points (my Dad showed me how to measure with a feeler gauge and adjust the points accordingly). We snipped off a bit of the plug wires and redid those as you suggested @ballbearian. But, the major fix was realizing they had the battery ground cable over a painted part of the frame. Once we fixed those things we had beautiful, bright, blue spark!
POs... typical. Glad that's all it was.
Unfortunately, I finally got my hands on some compression gauges, and it wasn't good. 45 and 60 psi; far from the 130 my manual calls for.
Were you holding the throttle wide open, choke off? Kicked until the gauge stopped rising? Did you try a little bit of oil in each cylinder? (just a half teaspoon or so to be safe)
Question: any suggestions on where to look for engine stands for these little Honda engines?
LOL... not much was made for these engines, most make adapter plates to fit the motor mount lugs on the engine and then bolt them to an automotive engine stand. Or make a wooden frame to sit the engine in on the bench.
 
On compression testing. Both plugs out, throttle held open, choke off? Valves adjusted? Then a half teaspoon of oil on rings, let it cycle a few times to distribute then test again.
 
Also find it easier to loosen all side cover screws, rotor bolt, sprocket bolts, etc. with impact before removing engine.

Maybe read "Mikes Garage' post about leakdown testing. Very informative even if you don't get the tool.
 
I did as you guys suggested and oiled the cylinders, held the throttle open, and tested with both plugs out. Still under 60 compression.

So.... Went ahead and pulled the engine. Check out under the cam chain cover gear; eww. This engine is in rough shape.

Question, are there any reliable engine rebuild kits where I can get all my gaskets and seals for this engine?

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Reading ahead in my service manual, will I need the extractor tool to remove the dynamo, or can I fashion something out of a bolt?
 
I've bought these. They look ok but are always missing the oil pump gaskets so I just make my own. I can mail you one if you want, I probably made extras.


Pretty much all from Asia. Just the way it is. Here is a combo with seals too. Separate seal kits around $30-40.

 
I've bought these. They look ok but are always missing the oil pump gaskets so I just make my own. I can mail you one if you want, I probably made extras.

Pretty much all from Asia. Just the way it is. Here is a combo with seals too. Separate seal kits around $30-40.



Your old Hondas are from Asia, too. Lets not get into politics.
 
Excellent, nice work. Since it may only be an exact fit for your engine, not sure how many CA95 owners will line up for one though... :)
 
Excellent, nice work. Since it may only be an exact fit for your engine, not sure how many CA95 owners will line up for one though... :)
Already made plates with the bolt orientation for the 305! Just have bolt the plates to the 150 holes.
 
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