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Bike is trying to start, even without the Key!

dludeke

New Member
Joined
May 17, 2023
Total Posts
9
Total likes
0
Location
Royal Oak, MI USA
I got my bike (1973 CL350) up and running, had a great ride for about an hour, and then the bike died. Was able to get a ride home, get my trailer and get the bike home.

Put the battery on a charger and got the battery back charged again.

Went to reconnect everything the the battery, the key wasn't even in the bike and when i attempted to connect the negative side of the battery to the bike, there was a spark and the bike was trying to turn over and start.

I took the main fuse out of the bike, and atempted again, and it still was trying to start the bike and there was a small spark as soon as i placed the cable on the negative terminal of the battery. Any ideas?

Thanks
 
Moved to 350 Electrical section.

Sounds like the solenoid is stuck in "start" mode. I'd remove the solenoid with the battery disconnected and bench test it with your battery and a couple of jumper wires. I'm guessing when you energize it you won't hear a strong click since it seems to be stuck connected across the heavy terminals internally.
 
Moved to 350 Electrical section.

Sounds like the solenoid is stuck in "start" mode. I'd remove the solenoid with the battery disconnected and bench test it with your battery and a couple of jumper wires. I'm guessing when you energize it you won't hear a strong click since it seems to be stuck connected across the heavy terminals internally.


When I plugged connected the jumpers, i heard absolutely nothing. does it matter which side is positive and which side is negative? (i tested both ways and heard nothing either way)
 

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It shouldn't matter which side is positive or negative for your test, but you are on the wrong posts. You should provide 12V to the smaller screws to see if the solenoid clicks or not. A complete circuit using the smaller terminals energizes an electromagnet to pull in a plunger that will complete the path between the two larger posts. In your case, it sounds like the solenoid is sticking and is keeping the two larger posts connected all the time. You could just check from one large terminal to the other to see if you have continuity. You could do that with an ohm meter or even just a powered test light. If the two large posts are connected to each other even when the solenoid is not energized, you either need to disassemble it and clean it, or just replace it.
 
Based on what you've told us, we suspect the 2 large posts are continuously connected (stuck together) where the blue circles are, causing your solenoid to constantly send power to the starter even when the key is off.

sCDK5vF.png


Normally those large posts are only connected while the starter button is pushed (completing the circuit through the yellow/red and black wires causing the electromagnet to be energized, drawing the plunger to the large posts inside the solenoid). We're suggesting you check for continuity between the 2 large posts with a meter or test light. When no wires are connected, there should be no continuity between the large posts.
 
swapped out the solenoid, and the bike started right up normally! I tested the battery voltage before my ride, it was 12.73. After about a 7 mile ride that took a little over 20 minutes, the voltage was at 12.35. is that voltage drop concerning? Also, this was my first ride with my AGM battery.

The bike started up so easy, idled right around 1100 RPM for about 5 minutes before i hopped on and then ran great for the first 15 minutes. After that time, the bike started stalling at stop lights as the idle fell too low. The bike started back up every time, but was quite weird that the idle was off after not having issues for the first bit.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Dave
 
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