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Assembly of my '74 CB360

LongDistanceRider said:
After fixing the paint for the 3rd time I think it's time to shoot it with Spray Max 2K, it's an epoxy clear that will seal the paint and prevent it from gas peel.
Note: you have to use a respirator type mask and as much fresh air as possible because it's nasty stuff for your lungs.
I would also do a light color sanding on the tank to cut down the orange peel effect and give the clear a good base to hold to.
Click to expand...

I’ve used spray max high gloss 2k clear every time. It’s great stuff but doesn’t help when it sits in a puddle of gas for a day.
I think i just sprayed lightly too far into the lip of the tank, so vapors got under paint around the cap.
I’ve thought about doing something about the orange peel but i didn’t really care, it’s significantly better the second time


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It looks good, Avery. My only complaint would be the chopped fenders, but at least they were chopped cleanly. I have bar end mirrors on my CB750F and I like them. Your headlight is pretty cool, too.

Missing spokes would bother me. Depending on what you want to do, maybe powder coating the rims would provide another option for you. You could probably find a color pretty close to the tank color. That would give you the chance to install new spokes and replace your wheel bearings.
 
stl360+450 said:
It looks good, Avery. My only complaint would be the chopped fenders, but at least they were chopped cleanly. I have bar end mirrors on my CB750F and I like them. Your headlight is pretty cool, too.

Missing spokes would bother me. Depending on what you want to do, maybe powder coating the rims would provide another option for you. You could probably find a color pretty close to the tank color. That would give you the chance to install new spokes and replace your wheel bearings.
Click to expand...

Yeah, if you remember me saying the fenders were pretty roached, so i didn’t feel bad about chopping up a crappy pair. I really like the bar end mirrors too, surprisingly good. I miss the classic headlight look a lot but you can’t beat actually seeing the road.
I’m sure the rims are fine, they need touched up but i will need some new spokes for sure, maybe chrome. All i know about them is they aren’t cheap and they’re a real big pain in the ass, so i’m not looking forward to it


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The spoke sets are about $30 per wheel from 4-into-1. It's a bit of a head scratcher the first time you lace up a wheel, but you'd be able to do it. I've only done it a couple of times, but could give you a few tips that helped me. My wheels were really rusty so I had them powder coated black. I made a little stand to hold my bike up while the wheels were at the shop being painted.

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PXL_20210731_151841903.NIGHT.jpg
 
stl360+450 said:
The spoke sets are about $30 per wheel from 4-into-1. It's a bit of a head scratcher the first time you lace up a wheel, but you'd be able to do it. I've only done it a couple of times, but could give you a few tips that helped me. My wheels were really rusty so I had them powder coated black. I made a little stand to hold my bike up while the wheels were at the shop being painted.
Click to expand...

Your bike always looks super sweet. I think that bacchus green 350 tank is one of the best looking tanks. I think i’ll go black again on the wheels, maybe powder coat like you said.
If i make it green now that i’ve found a good paint for it, i’ll go with chrome spokes like yours. But i may just leave the colors all the same and do black spokes, it’s a lot of work to strip the paint on the tank side covers and fenders


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Gas fumes will keep the clear from adhering. Seal the filler neck with Saran Wrap and tape. Wipe the tank down with Isopropyl alcohol and then shoot it. Set it in the sun or under heat lamps for at least 48 hours, more is better in this case. The longer it has to cure the better.
 
LongDistanceRider said:
Gas fumes will keep the clear from adhering. Seal the filler neck with Saran Wrap and tape. Wipe the tank down with Isopropyl alcohol and then shoot it. Set it in the sun or under heat lamps for at least 48 hours, more is better in this case. The longer it has to cure the better.
Click to expand...

I didn’t have any gas in the tank for like a week after i cleared it. Im thinking the paint has to end right where the seal on the cap starts. All the paint past there has peeled away, and therefore allowed fumes or a small amount of gas to travel into the neck of the tank under the cap. Not noticeable with the cap on


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Actually end the paint @1/8-1/4" below the seal seems to work. Although this time when I did the roadbike tank I sanded to clean steel all the way into the edge of the neck, painted and cleared the same, just see what will happen.
 
While i wait for a while to receive my replacement bolts, i figured i’d ask this question: Why is my 360 such a NOT smooth ride? I thought that was just how they were supposed to be until i got to ride that 71 350 i fixed up for a friend. I love my bike but i’ve been very tempted to sell it recently so i want to give myself reason not to
Obviously none of you have any experience of what mine is like to ride specifically so i’ll give some details.

I mentioned it before, but engine braking or just letting off throttle in general feels like HELL. It’s hard to describe but it feels like the bike is under an incredible amount of strain.
It backfires too, whether i have the stock pipes, replica ones, or the ones i have now on it.
Last year on one of my last rides i briefly mentioned that when engine braking in 5th or whatever it was, I think the exhaust gasket/collar blew apart leaving only the wire shell. Nothing “broke” catastrophically, it was simply backfiring and then i heard a buzzing sound, which was the wire shell vibrating around the outside of the pipe

I thought it was internal engine issues or not having the 360 air filters. However, as you know i rebuilt the top end and i have original filters in with stock keihin jets too


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You seem to be describing engine behavior, but you also mentioned missing spokes on both wheels in a previous post. The missing spokes likely mean your wheels are out of balance and that could cause vibrations that reduce ride quality. Is it possible that one of your brakes is dragging?

Can you remind me when the backfiring occurs? Deceleration only?

Whatever it is, I don't think it's anything that affects all 360s. Hopefully it is also correctable.
 
How does it roll/coast in neutral? If it's wheels, tires, brakes, etc. you would note it then. Chain alignment would only show under loading, accel/decel.
Backfire thru the exhaust could be air leaking at the head connection, too lean or way too rich. Honda added air cut valves to later models, '78 on, for decel afterburn(backfire) where they made the exhaust too rich to burn.
 
LongDistanceRider said:
How does it roll/coast in neutral? If it's wheels, tires, brakes, etc. you would note it then. Chain alignment would only show under loading, accel/decel.
Backfire thru the exhaust could be air leaking at the head connection, too lean or way too rich. Honda added air cut valves to later models, '78 on, for decel afterburn(backfire) where they made the exhaust too rich to burn.
Click to expand...

stl360+450 said:
You seem to be describing engine behavior, but you also mentioned missing spokes on both wheels in a previous post. The missing spokes likely mean your wheels are out of balance and that could cause vibrations that reduce ride quality. Is it possible that one of your brakes is dragging?

Can you remind me when the backfiring occurs? Deceleration only?

Whatever it is, I don't think it's anything that affects all 360s. Hopefully it is also correctable.
Click to expand...

Okay so i don’t think it’s anything wheels or brakes. It’ll roll for ages in neutral. And i’ve done all the brake adjustments and such just to make sure but that would’ve been too easy i guess

Backfiring only occurs on deceleration yes and also at idle. No other time times. And no i’m not completely chopping the throttle in gear so it’s nothing like that.

I wonder if it’s possible that it’s a fueling issue? I doubt there’s a specific passageway in the carb that works only on deceleration


Riding on main roads is fine as it’s easier to maintain a consistent speed in those high gears. But it’s very difficult to maintain 25 or so riding through town and low speed roads, unless i’m very high in the rpm’s but by then i’m well past speeding
 
stl360+450 said:
Is your drive chain loose maybe?
Click to expand...

I could tighten it to see if it makes a difference.
I’m thinking not though, we had discussed it on here in depth as i was having trouble setting it correctly.
It’s not floppy or anything, like an inch travel in either direction from the middle i think is what the manual says.

You can see here the chain adjusters aren’t all the way up or anything. Of course the chain length could be the problem but like i said i think it’s within spec
1184de28f0c1feba43b421b49f5657bf.jpg



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If it has the proper amount of slack, I wouldn't tighten it any further. A loose chain can cause the bike to lurch some when accelerating or shifting, so I thought I would at least mention it.
 
stl360+450 said:
If it has the proper amount of slack, I wouldn't tighten it any further. A loose chain can cause the bike to lurch some when accelerating or shifting, so I thought I would at least mention it.
Click to expand...

That’s interesting i didn’t know that. I always knew too loose or tight is bad but not what happens when it is lol


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Avery, now is the time, while your top end is open to double, triple check your cam positions and crank positions and the cam chain is all perfect and the way it should be. Take pictures of the alignment marks of each and get some verification from all of us here. Once you torque down the head and all, you don't want to second guess if everything is right.

I say this because of your previous comment about it running rough and "straining". If the cams are off position to each other and to the crank, you'll never get it timed right. Could also be the reason it's backfiring.

You've worked so hard on this project and learned a lot. You should experience that great feeling when it's all done right and feels and rides like it.
 
ballbearian said:
Avery, now is the time, while your top end is open to double, triple check your cam positions and crank positions and the cam chain is all perfect and the way it should be. Take pictures of the alignment marks of each and get some verification from all of us here. Once you torque down the head and all, you don't want to second guess if everything is right.

I say this because of your previous comment about it running rough and "straining". If the cams are off position to each other and to the crank, you'll never get it timed right. Could also be the reason it's backfiring.

You've worked so hard on this project and learned a lot. You should experience that great feeling when it's all done right and feels and rides like it.
Click to expand...

Yes thank you. I did check and it seems good. I had to redo it two or three times when assembling when i had the whole mess with the extra tensioner arm buried in the bottom end. I will take some pics and show you guys just to be sure!

I noticed when i was inspecting my points today that the right side seemed very off. As in the bottom and top contact points do not line up, they were about half. I think that could easily explain why i have lots of popping out the right side, as well as the plug is wet and i’d say it’s darker than the left as well.
I took the point arm apart but it was the top contact point that was the bottom. It was like it was bent at an odd angle causing it to not line up properly. I was able to stick some mini vice grips on the metal and straighten it out as good as i can. It’s not AS EXACT as the left but it’s damn close. Maybe this is related to what we’re discussing
I probably won’t get my top end bolts until next weekend so we’ll have to see then


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Backfiring only occurs on deceleration yes and also at idle. No other time times. And no i’m not completely chopping the throttle in gear so it’s nothing like that.
Click to expand...

Some popping on deceleration is normal. A lot, and also at idle, means the idle mixture is too lean. (I know because I went through this 6 months ago, dialing in my rebuilt carbs).

It’s not floppy or anything, like an inch travel in either direction from the middle i think is what the manual says.
Click to expand...

I suggest reviewing the manual carefully, and trying it on the tighter side of the spec.

It could be that a slightly loose chain and a slightly lean idle mix are adding up to real trouble on deceleration.
 
KenCM450 said:
Some popping on deceleration is normal. A lot, and also at idle, means the idle mixture is too lean. (I know because I went through this 6 months ago, dialing in my rebuilt carbs).



I suggest reviewing the manual carefully, and trying it on the tighter side of the spec.

It could be that a slightly loose chain and a slightly lean idle mix are adding up to real trouble on deceleration.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ken. And yes i would definitely characterize it as a lot, not the normal few pops it sounds more like machine gun fire.
I’ll see if i can tighten the chain any. I’m not sure how far out you’re allowed to take the adjusters. I’m already near the end of the index marks
1175de6e14575a0b84680dfec6cf1000.jpg




Ps guys, im getting a new bike tomorrow[emoji1][emoji1] Well, new to me. It’s still a honda and it’s definitely vintage. But it’s quite the departure from the 360. I’ll post pics, wonder if anyone will guess it


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LongDistanceRider said:
Goldwing? CX500?
Click to expand...

Winner winner lol. 1978 gl1000, no fairings [emoji2961]
I considered a cx 500 for a long time, i know the engines are basically bulletproof as they put them in that mini goldwing silver wing. But I had a v twin with my yamaha virago (very different i know but still) so i wanted to try something different.
I think 77 is the best year for the goldwing but one slipped through my fingers and the 78 is great as well. I was against them for a while until i saw the performance the 1000s put out


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Here it is guys! I won’t make any more posts about it i know there are separate forums for that, but i figured you guys would like to see another vintage bike. Got caught in the worst rain ever for a bit, never been more soaked. But the rest of the 2.5 ride was fun lol.
It’s not perfect, i think the fuel gauge is messed up, but that’s fine with me. It sounds NUTS i was really blown away by the sound of the stock pipes

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It looks really good Avery. I wouldn't have thought you'd be interested in a Gold Wing, but I can tell you from having owned 2 of them during the '70s that they are not slow slugs by any stretch, they have something like 90+ crankshaft horsepower. You're going to have to learn some new maintenance stuff like checking and (initially, if you don't know how old they are) replacing the timing belts, but most of the rest of general maintenance is actually easier like valve adjustments and points/timing. And I see you already learned that the gas tank is not where it seems... :) Shaft drive will spoil you, I can tell you that from experience.
 
ancientdad said:
It looks really good Avery. I wouldn't have thought you'd be interested in a Gold Wing, but I can tell you from having owned 2 of them during the '70s that they are not slow slugs by any stretch, they have something like 90+ crankshaft horsepower. You're going to have to learn some new maintenance stuff like checking and (initially, if you don't know how old they are) replacing the timing belts, but most of the rest of general maintenance is actually easier like valve adjustments and points/timing. And I see you already learned that the gas tank is not where it seems... :) Shaft drive will spoil you, I can tell you that from experience.
Click to expand...

I had a shaft drive on my yamaha but yeah this is a whole different experience than either of my bikes.
The guy i bought it from was a harley guy, he only rode it about 600 miles in the past year or so since he got it. “Too smooth” he said lol.
But i know the guy he bought it from was a vintage honda fan and big time mechanic so i’m not worried about the typical big ticket failures on it, although i will check them.
The only issue it REALLY has is the tank gauge. Reaches reserve in about 70 miles. But it only will drink about 2 gallons before it’s full, and it’s a five gallon tank. I’ll either do some math for the rest of the season or see if there’s an easy fix.

Hopefully my bolts will come for my 360 next week. I’d love to see how different they feel, and if my minor changes have fixed anything.


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stl360+450 said:
Very clean, Avery! I was surprised to hear you were picking up such a big bike, too, but I hope you enjoy it.
Click to expand...

Definitely have some learning to do, or some calf workouts lol!
It handles great honestly, and i’ve been practicing a lot in parking lots with some cones in my 360 so that helps. But my GOD is it heavy when it’s sitting.
I made the mistake of pulling forwards into a spot on a slight incline. Had to have my buddy that came with my help me pull it out of the spot


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Avery_74cb360 said:
I made the mistake of pulling forwards into a spot on a slight incline. Had to have my buddy that came with my help me pull it out of the spot
Click to expand...

You'll learn quickly to evaluate where you're parking so the front wheel is on the uphill, that's why you see all the HD's backed into a curb. Honda recognized the problem later on an the GW's have a reverse setup using the starter.
 
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LongDistanceRider said:
I made the mistake of pulling forwards into a spot on a slight incline. Had to have my buddy that came with my help me pull it out of the spot

You'll learn quickly to evaluate where you're parking so the front wheel is on the uphill, that's why you see all the HD's backed into a curb. Honda recognized the problem later on an the GW's have a reverse setup using the starter.
Click to expand...

Typically i will do that on my 360 if it’s an obvious hill. But i’m so used to being able to simply walk it away if i’m stuck that i really screwed myself lol. I always thought the reverse gear was a LITTLE silly but man do i wish it had it now lol


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Do you guy have methods and products specifically that you use to clean you bikes? My 360 hasn’t gotten too dirty but it has a lot of bugs on it and some spots of grim on the mufflers.
And the goldwing is covered in water spots too specifically on that very valuable and pristine chrome.
I’ve never really sat down and really cleaned my bike. I don’t want to just wet a rag and start wiping at spots i feel like that’s a no-no


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My other old biker buddy is a habitual slave to clean bikes, even when he rode a Honda 750, now it's a Road King so he cusses it as he cleans. It's the car wash for him on a regular basis and spot cleaning as needed (constant).

One tip is to use a leaf blower to blow away all the water drops so there are no spots. It does work good especially if you got a small electric leaf blower.

Don't use Windex on the plastic windshields either. Use a plastic cleaner.

Amazon.com: Invisible Glass 91014 19-Ounce Screen and Plastic Cleaner Protectant and Polish Anti-Fog and Anti-Static for Plastic Surfaces Touchscreens, Plastic Shields and Guards, Electronics, Pack of 1 : Everything Else
 
Avery_74cb360 said:
Do you guy have methods and products specifically that you use to clean you bikes? My 360 hasn’t gotten too dirty but it has a lot of bugs on it and some spots of grim on the mufflers.
And the goldwing is covered in water spots too specifically on that very valuable and pristine chrome.
I’ve never really sat down and really cleaned my bike. I don’t want to just wet a rag and start wiping at spots i feel like that’s a no-no


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Click to expand...

In almost 5 full years since the second reassembly of my 450 (and the almost 2 years prior to that as well) I've never washed it. All I do is use a wet cloth and wipe it down to remove dust and dirt, then a dry towel behind it to avoid water spots. On the rear wheel I use a rag with a little carb spray sometimes to remove chain lube buildup. As long as you never get caught in the rain that's all it will ever need. Of course, it helps when you have zero oil leaks too.

BTW, there are a lot of smart Gold Wing people at Naked Gold Wings

and you too could have one of these :)

https://ngwclub.com/forum/download/file.php?id=85269

https://ngwclub.com/forum/download/file.php?id=85270
 
I was wondering if i was weird for never cleaning my 360. I think i spend all my patience getting it out if the garage and back i don’t want to work on it if i don’t need to lol

And wowza that’s an interesting bike there lol. I’ll keep that forum in mind if i have any problems come up

I think i’ll just pick up some microfiber towels, and possibly a spray of some kind of i find something cool. They aren’t million dollar bikes i don’t care TOO much


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Alright guys
I got my bolts. But they won’t go in the problem hole. Got the valve cover back on and everything ready to go, but the replacement bolt will not fit in the hole.
ALL the other bolts fit fine so it’s not the part i don’t think
The old bolts don’t really go in either, but they do a little. Some resistance but they’ll go in. Haven’t forced anything of course just used my hands. Not sure what to do


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Avery_74cb360 said:
I didn’t do anything to the hole other than get the bolt out and clean it out with carb clean


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Click to expand...

The only things I can think of are, either you nicked up the outer edge of that bolt hole when you got the broken piece out OR the bolts they sent you are a different thread pitch.
 
ancientdad said:
The only things I can think of are, either you nicked up the outer edge of that bolt hole when you got the broken piece out OR the bolts they sent you are a different thread pitch.
Click to expand...

I don’t think they’re different bolts, like i said everything else fits.
I wouldn’t be too surprised if i nicked the bolt hole a little. That’s my only guess as to what it could be honestly.
Not sure how to go about tapping it though. Valve cover on or off? By hand or by drill? At honda they have us just put the two in the drill and send it in. But i assume it might have to be more precise with a cylinder head?
I think if i leave the valve cover on, it would help me to tap the hole perfectly straight? That is if the tap is long enough


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IIRC you did say you bought all new bolts, so if the others went in okay then the thread pitch is not the issue.

Avery_74cb360 said:
At honda they have us just put the two in the drill and send it in.
Click to expand...

At Honda? Are you working at a bike shop or car dealership? I knew you were working but don't recall you ever saying where.

Unless you're a machinist using a lathe, you should never use a tap in a drill. And yes, to clean up the threads with the cover on would require a longer tap most likely. You won't actually be tapping threads, just cleaning them up meaning if any of the upper threads in the hole have gotten nicked then it would remove the burrs that are causing the difficulty in getting the new bolt in cleanly.
 
ancientdad said:
IIRC you did say you bought all new bolts, so if the others went in okay then the thread pitch is not the issue.



At Honda? Are you working at a bike shop or car dealership? I knew you were working but don't recall you ever saying where.

Unless you're a machinist using a lathe, you should never use a tap in a drill. And yes, to clean up the threads with the cover on would require a longer tap most likely. You won't actually be tapping threads, just cleaning them up meaning if any of the upper threads in the hole have gotten nicked then it would remove the burrs that are causing the difficulty in getting the new bolt in cleanly.
Click to expand...

Yes at honda. Wish they still had motorcycles here it would be awesome to build those
So what do you think i should do? I could really just swipe a 6mm tap from work tomorrow and take it back, they have a bajillion of them. But i’m sure there are longer ones online.

So i’m not tapping IN the hole, just setting it on top and threading it in a little bit?


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Avery_74cb360 said:
So i’m not tapping IN the hole, just setting it on top and threading it in a little bit?


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Click to expand...

Using a tap to clean up threads is basically just like screwing in a bolt into the hole, you just want to be sure to start straight and be gentle as you turn past the slight resistance you'll feel when it cleans off the burrs and straightens up the existing threads. You also want to turn it in a turn or two, then back it up a half to one full turn, then in a turn or two more, then back it up again. This keeps the burrs from getting forced into the threads along the way and causing damage.
 
ancientdad said:
Using a tap to clean up threads is basically just like screwing in a bolt into the hole, you just want to be sure to start straight and be gentle as you turn past the slight resistance you'll feel when it cleans off the burrs and straightens up the existing threads. You also want to turn it in a turn or two, then back it up a half to one full turn, then in a turn or two more, then back it up again. This keeps the burrs from getting forced into the threads along the way and causing damage.
Click to expand...

Alright we’ll i’ll get on that tomorrow then. Maybe i should go buy one from the store that has the whatever it is handle that helps you turn it? Don’t know what that’s called


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Get both style taps, the tapered (starting tap) and the bottoming tap. The bottoming tap is used to clean the threads in the bottom of the hole, that the tapered tap can't reach.
 
mike in idaho said:
Get both style taps, the tapered (starting tap) and the bottoming tap. The bottoming tap is used to clean the threads in the bottom of the hole, that the tapered tap can't reach.
Click to expand...

Great thanks good idea
Just checking, this first link here would be a BOTTOMING style tap, correct?

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...ebilt-metric-tap-wrench-set-6-piece/66272_0_0

And then this one would be a TAPERED one? A little blurry of a picture i know

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-HANSON-Metric-2-Pack-Tap-and-Drill-Set/1003087524


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Avery_74cb360 said:
Great thanks good idea
Just checking, this first link here would be a BOTTOMING style tap, correct?

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...ebilt-metric-tap-wrench-set-6-piece/66272_0_0

And then this one would be a TAPERED one? A little blurry of a picture i know

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-HANSON-Metric-2-Pack-Tap-and-Drill-Set/1003087524


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Click to expand...

Though the first one is more squared off than typical, this is definitely a bottoming tap

https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/0326907
 
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