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82 CM450A Escape From New York Edition

Throttle cable repair kit showed up. The knarp on the end is just a little wider than what the carb will accept so some careful filing will be necessary. The knarps you thread in, then solder (do NOT forget to solder!) are probably going to require something hacky/"creative" otherwise I'll have to get some knarps from Treatland or maybe Motion Pro/Summit Racing/Etc.

 
Interesting way of making knarps:


Really taking me back here. I've actually done this but without a template on the side of a road for a Bing carburetor on a Maxi at least 15 years ago. Used to carry a butane solder pen in the tool bag. Had a throttle cable snap at the carb end and just soldered a blob until I got it to fit. I meant to change it out with a proper cable when I got home... never did. Held up like that for years until I finally remembered to do it.
 
I did make a new throttle cable; works fine. There's always that bit at the end where one of the adjusters go that always has some "space" between the outer sheath and the adjuster when you turn the handlebars one way or the other because that adjuster is usually part of the entire cable assembly. I have no good solution for that one, unless someone else does.

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Twist a retaining wire to keep that cable sheath inside the cable end housing. 6” Light gauge wire do two wraps around the sheath at the center of the wire, leaving two equal length ends. Crossover wrap (like shoelaces) up the cable end and double wrap and twist.

Alternatively, you can try a thin coat of silicone and pray it doesn’t smooge up and get inside the cable.
 
Nice repair work and video Frank.
I was curious,on a separate note; Can you recommend a good cable lube tool?
I had a 20+ yr. old Motion Pro tool I would clamp to the end of the cable,then use an aerosol can to blast lube all the way through the cable.
I've purchased a few of the newer ones.. and all they do is leak the aerosol lube around the tool w/o allowing it to travel up the cable.
I now just removed the cable from the bike and lightly clamp the cable-end in my small bench vise and use motor oil on a sharp pointy tool to slowly drip the oil down the cable while it sits for a few hours.
I would like to buy a better quality lube tool to clamp onto the cable-end while it's on the bike and use my aerosol can to spray lube up or down into the cable like I had before. What do you recommend ?
 
Yeah they all leak. I use that same tool. Honestly I just do spritzes through that took with a towel until it starts to drip out the other side. If the whole cable comes off I like to just tie a sandwich bag and fill it with oil, hang it from the ceiling overnight and come back to it.

Since this was a whole new cable I was making it was easy to lube the inner sheathing and cable itself.
 
Yeah they all leak. I use that same tool. Honestly I just do spritzes through that took with a towel until it starts to drip out the other side. If the whole cable comes off I like to just tie a sandwich bag and fill it with oil, hang it from the ceiling overnight and come back to it.

Since this was a whole new cable I was making it was easy to lube the inner sheathing and cable itself.
Yes.
I was considering getting a syringe from a Farm Store and then partially heat some quality grease in a tin on my stove top. I could then attach the cable-end to my vise & use that animal syringe to inject some of that hot grease down in past the inner cable? on a new cable,at some point. Or even on an old cable;then inject some warm 85wt. hypoid oil down into it until it all settles to the low end overnight..
 
If you get the syringe way to work well I'd be interested in seeing how you do it. Sandwich bag way works pretty well.

One thing I do use for some cables that are pretty far gone or have cracks in them, rust, etc. is Dri-Slide Bike-Aid. It's basically moly and graphite in a small container with a needle point. It works very well for lubing cables but it is very messy. Wear gloves, lay towels. It will make it to the other end of the cable very quickly. So if you're in a hurry it can be beneficial.

 
As an aside, this is the second bike now with basically an open exhaust and it has the same kind of performance issues ToniAnn had with the Emgos. Just odd lean spots you can't tune out no matter what you do. Guaranteed it ran worse before I touched it because of the pods. But even so.

Seems the automatics really just do not like open exhausts, but then again I'd imagine most bikes don't. I try to avoid any of that kind of stuff because life is too short for me to be goofing around with it.
 
That would be nice, but the sporster mufflers ToniAnn had on the bike before worked just fine. It seems very open exhausts/no muffler is a huge issue on these bikes.
 
If you get the syringe way to work well I'd be interested in seeing how you do it. Sandwich bag way works pretty well.

One thing I do use for some cables that are pretty far gone or have cracks in them, rust, etc. is Dri-Slide Bike-Aid. It's basically moly and graphite in a small container with a needle point. It works very well for lubing cables but it is very messy. Wear gloves, lay towels. It will make it to the other end of the cable very quickly. So if you're in a hurry it can be beneficial.

I already have the syringe but haven't done this yet as I haven't decided which quality grease to use;possibly use Redline assembly lube? as it's a very light consistency product.
 
"New" used caliper with pads in excellent shape came from Canada and arrived today. Got them on now we finally have front brakes! Got a new chain for it as well, but accidentally got a 520 instead of 530. Did not realize this until after I cut the old chain which was riveted.

The old chain is o-ring, which I was surprised, and is totally kinked. It also had 4 inches of slack (!). Here it is hanging on the "wall of shame" in it's natural resting position. I'm sure @ballbearian may have some choice words on chains and maintenance!

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I already have the syringe but haven't done this yet as I haven't decided which quality grease to use;possibly use Redline assembly lube? as it's a very light consistency product.
Sorry Bill, thought I replied to you here. Assembly lube seems too sticky. 3-in-1/SAE20 maybe? Usually if I lube a cable with a sandwich bag hanging overnight I use SAE20 or 10W40. Basically whatever bottle of regular oil is in front of me.
 
Sorry Bill, thought I replied to you here. Assembly lube seems too sticky. 3-in-1/SAE20 maybe? Usually if I lube a cable with a sandwich bag hanging overnight I use SAE20 or 10W40. Basically whatever bottle of regular oil is in front of me.
The baggie is brilliant. I say thicker is maybe even better. 90w gear oil? Sometimes a good solvent flush works wonders first. I've put the 'knarp' end in a drill and the spiral of the inner cable can push stuff through like an artesian screw for both flushing and oiling.
 
The baggie is brilliant. I say thicker is maybe even better. 90w gear oil? Sometimes a good solvent flush works wonders first. I've put the 'knarp' end in a drill and the spiral of the inner cable can push stuff through like an artesian screw for both flushing and oiling.
Nice trick on the drill, never thought of that.

Really on thicker? My concern was if it's too thick potentially getting funny/slow in winter. Maybe nobody else really cares, but I'm riding in 35-40F so it would matter to me.
 
Sorry Bill, thought I replied to you here. Assembly lube seems too sticky. 3-in-1/SAE20 maybe? Usually if I lube a cable with a sandwich bag hanging overnight I use SAE20 or 10W40. Basically whatever bottle of regular oil is in front of me.
I've used 10/40 motor oil before,applying many drops,then working the vertical cable(ball clamped in a vise)to get the oil down into it further;I've heard of the plastic bag with oil in it,just never tried it yet.

I purchased some Redline assembly lube on Ebay and when I received it,noticed it had a liquidy? look to it and I mixed it up a bit;I think the seller may have mixed a liquid into the original Redline assembly lube for some reason?
I suppose any actual grease would require it to be heated up Very much up to it's 'Drop Point' (400+ degrees?) before it would be able to turn into liquid and allow itself to flow like oil..
 
Nice trick on the drill, never thought of that.

Really on thicker? My concern was if it's too thick potentially getting funny/slow in winter. Maybe nobody else really cares, but I'm riding in 35-40F so it would matter to me.
I'm sure there is limits there. I mostly use whatever 10w40 there is, but around 45 is my limit. 90w would be fine for Tom in Florida but our tough Canadian brothers in below freezing might prefer something lighter.

The drill has saved a few by helping to flush some light rust grittiness out. Any rust is abrasive, causes wear and poor feel, so it's important to keep the vinyl covering intact, touch up tears with liquid tape etc.. then spray paint the housing silver. Who knows?
Benly speedo cable.
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I've used 10/40 motor oil before,applying many drops,then working the vertical cable(ball clamped in a vise)to get the oil down into it further;I've heard of the plastic bag with oil in it,just never tried it yet.

I purchased some Redline assembly lube on Ebay and when I received it,noticed it had a liquidy? look to it and I mixed it up a bit;I think the seller may have mixed a liquid into the original Redline assembly lube for some reason?
I suppose any actual grease would require it to be heated up Very much up to it's 'Drop Point' (400+ degrees?) before it would be able to turn into liquid and allow itself to flow like oil..
Yes on the grease. I've lubed a couple of chains the old school way by heating a pan of grease and it's lot harder and annoying than I thought it would be. Since we're all talking about maintenance that these rat bikes always avoid in terms of chains what I do with new ones is soak them in kerosene for about 5 minutes and use a chain brush. Then I hang it from the ceiling and let it hang for a while, come back to it with a heat gun, then spray it with chain wax and let it sit over night. This work well. Honestly, I like the gear oil the best and honestly it would serve these rat bikes well because it's messy and does attract grunge on the swingarm and some fling. Aerosols work OK, they just don't seem to last as long. Plus for me there is something satisfying about hearing the "click click" stickiness of the gear oil when turning that wheel on the center stand or moving it around in the shop. Not for everyone and that's OK.
 
Yes on the grease. I've lubed a couple of chains the old school way by heating a pan of grease and it's lot harder and annoying than I thought it would be. Since we're all talking about maintenance that these rat bikes always avoid in terms of chains what I do with new ones is soak them in kerosene for about 5 minutes and use a chain brush. Then I hang it from the ceiling and let it hang for a while, come back to it with a heat gun, then spray it with chain wax and let it sit over night. This work well. Honestly, I like the gear oil the best and honestly it would serve these rat bikes well because it's messy and does attract grunge on the swingarm and some fling. Aerosols work OK, they just don't seem to last as long. Plus for me there is something satisfying about hearing the "click click" stickiness of the gear oil when turning that wheel on the center stand or moving it around in the shop. Not for everyone and that's OK.
I was referring to cable lube.
I have heard many others in various threads mention 85/140wt. hypoid gear oil on their drive chains and they said it worked well also.
The bike I use quite a bit now is difficult to spray chain lube onto it because I usually spray it down,onto the inner chain run,which is far away from where my spray can is on this bike.
I could remove the chain and immerse it into a tray of the hypoid gear oil;how long does the hypoid hang-in there,before a re-lube is required ?
I had sprayed the aerosol chain lube from the back end into the rear sprocket,but I don't think it's as good as shooting it down on the inner run of the chain..
The point about the aerosol chain lube being sticky and picking up dirt is well taken.
 
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I was referring to cable lube.
I have heard many others in various threads mention 85/140wt. hypoid gear oil on their drive chains and they said it worked well also.
Yeah I was going off on tangents. We got a while to go before things get a bit more interesting in this thread and I do love discussing maintenance topics.

Yes hypoid gear oil works well too. Really any of that 85-90W, etc. stuff works well. I used to have bottles of Lucas "hub oil" I got for free when I worked in a warehouse many years ago. It's basically just gear oil with an oil thickener it. Used all of those bottles and their gear oil too I got for free. Got a decade and 10k+ out of that chain. Always kept it lubed with all that free gear oil. I only finally ran out of that stuff a few years ago and finally started using the chain wax.
 
Yeah I was going off on tangents. We got a while to go before things get a bit more interesting in this thread and I do love discussing maintenance topics.

Yes hypoid gear oil works well too. Really any of that 85-90W, etc. stuff works well. I used to have bottles of Lucas "hub oil" I got for free when I worked in a warehouse many years ago. It's basically just gear oil with an oil thickener it. Used all of those bottles and their gear oil too I got for free. Got a decade and 10k+ out of that chain. Always kept it lubed with all that free gear oil. I only finally ran out of that stuff a few years ago and finally started using the chain wax.
Do you remove the drive chain and immerse it when you lube it ?
 
Do you remove the drive chain and immerse it when you lube it ?
Nah. I have the applicator top (forget the term here) and just point and squeeze from inside of the chain on both side plates while spinning the wheel. Just like when you do aerosols.

I don't know of anyone really who complete remove the chain to lube it. Unless, maybe, you're taking it off to clean it as part of some yearly maintenance... which I don't even do. I lube my chains often, like at least once a week if I'm riding consistently. You can't really oil it too much. Worst that will happen is some fling, and I don't care about that. So removing the chain every week to immerse it would be a lot of work.

I have heard, but have seen it in person, that some old bikes were enclosed in oil baths and could easily go 20k-30k miles. That's something that sounds interesting to me.
 
Got the new chain the other day. Oiled and aligned. Works well. Actually did make a difference in it's power output off the line. Makes sense because it was totally rusted, kinked, and over 4 inches of slack. The tires were also totally flat, but you wouldn't know it because they're some weird profile tires. They barely fit, in fact rear rubs on the inner part of the swingarm a little bit and nothing you can do about that... I'll get pictures and numbers of them. They're neat tires, but not very practical.
 
Got the new chain the other day. Oiled and aligned. Works well. Actually did make a difference in it's power output off the line. Makes sense because it was totally rusted, kinked, and over 4 inches of slack. The tires were also totally flat, but you wouldn't know it because they're some weird profile tires. They barely fit, in fact rear rubs on the inner part of the swingarm a little bit and nothing you can do about that... I'll get pictures and numbers of them. They're neat tires, but not very practical.
That bike has a lot of things holding it back;handicapped.
 
Well, the truck mufflers are going to hold it back. I got it running fairly well, better than it ever has, but suffers the same problem as ToniAnn's bike where there's odd dead spots that no amount of tuning is going to fix and WOT is just not all the way there. Not much else you can do except go back to stock pipes. Though honestly it's pretty derivable as-is. For ripping around in a city it's more than adequate for this purpose.
 
Well, the truck mufflers are going to hold it back. I got it running fairly well, better than it ever has, but suffers the same problem as ToniAnn's bike where there's odd dead spots that no amount of tuning is going to fix and WOT is just not all the way there. Not much else you can do except go back to stock pipes. Though honestly it's pretty derivable as-is. For ripping around in a city it's more than adequate for this purpose.

I was wondering if that was an automotive exhaust tip. Hopefully it at least sounds cool.
 
Yeah but how do you get them to stay in there?
Got to be creative there. At least it's just a junk yard muffler and not a nice OEM so some wire, a screw etc. If they stay put long enough to know if it benefits them a permanent retainer thing could be figured out.
 
It's interesting, but unless he's going to pay me to experiment going up and down 441 to test.the right amount of pot scrubbers I think that can become his project.
 
Stock mufflers/power chamber are un-obtanium ? :confused::rolleyes:
Sort of, yes. So the chamber is now available as an aftermarket part from DSS (and others). It works OK, but needs prep work before use. The curves inside are not exactly the same, but I am using it on my own CM400A and performance is the same as the original.

The mufflers themselves always rot out where it joins to the chamber. So if you're like me you have a wall full of them. Short trips make it way worse. Just the nature of these unfortunately. You can get sporster mufflers and make them work, I never bothered.

And yeah like Pete said, out of scope for this project. He can have the fun moving the miss around and probably living with it as most rat bikes go.
 
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Took the caliper apart, cleaned the whole thing with soapy water including seals, forced air dried, brass wire wheel with dremel in seal area, clean again, then reassembled it all. He had the wrong length bolts and they were allens for the mounts. Fixed that too. DOT5 conversion complete and the brakes are very nice in performance.

I will say that two piston calipers are a bit more annoying. I do know that you have to alternate between them both, but even so. I had to get one out to find the height then push it back in slightly enough that i could remove it with my fingers and then pop the other one out. Had to try that method twice, but it did come out. I have a caliper piston tool like this, but smaller:
Capture.PNG
If you're doing a fair amount of brake work it's worth getting one. Yes, you could use a c-clamp with a piece of wood or some metal spacer, but I like how this tool just fits right in there and does what it needs to do.

Actually hooked up a GPS this time and went around hard in town in gear 1 for the most part. Top speed about 46MPH with some room to go. So it's performing about how it should. I didn't want to go too fast since it's in town, don't need a ticket. I have not taken it out on the main roads yet because the tail light needs changed the one he had the bulb assembly was held in just by rubber, goofy setup. So yeah, it's out on the road never to be found again. They'll pop me quick on the main road for no tail light since the bike is loud and will attract negative attention for sure. So with a rat bike like this you really gotta make sure everything works before you take it out. In a metro area nobody cares because police have better things to do, but in small towns no way. Speaking from personal experience.
 
There has been some action behind the scenes.

I had a back order of CDIs and ran out of cases just as the metal manufacturer was doing another round (basically have a standing order where they keep X many on hand for me at this point) and about a week or two gap. They finally came end of September and made him a CDI as he needed one.

Capture.PNG

While that was off I noticed the ignition coil wires were facing the wrong way. Upon closer inspection the coil was upside down. Had to trim back wires to fix it. Looks better now.
1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg

The other tail light was ONLY a tail light (no brake light) and it was wired wrong. It never worked. I fixed it, but then found out the light itself was only held in with a rubber grommet (?) so it fell out of course. Anyways, got something not as crappy, with three wires this time, drilled and got it mounted. Since this is a rat bike and for those going for the aesthetic take note... because things are getting chopped, "deleted", and lord knows what else stuff tends to just vibrate loose and disappears forever out onto the street. Get blue locktite, washer, locknut washer and the nut and put a stop to that. Blue will make it so you can get it apart again, but strong enough so things don't go flying out into traffic. Please do this to whoever is reading and is thinking about putting aftermarket stuff on their bike. Speaking from years of moped rat bike rally experience and the like.

tail1.jpgtail2.jpg

Yes I will do something about that hole where the harness is going. Need to come up with a grommet if possible. Otherwise, it's a rat bike, we can be half-assed with black RTV...

Since the tires are way too fat and they're over a decade expired he decided to go with the Shinko 712 Series 100/90/18 Front and Shinko 712 Series 130/90/16 Rear. This is the same setup ToniAnn had and it works fine. Tires came in. Local Honda dealer is very competitive with the prices you can get online with the shipping. Once I get reimbursed from the customer for the tires will drop the rims off to get that part done.

Will be working on the wiring this weekend and get that done and over with. I did notice the front brake switch only has one male terminal coming out of it. It does not appear to be broken so I assume it must use the ground on the handlebars to complete the circuit (real stupid). I tried to hook up a jumper to force the light to come on from the handlebars but started shorting out/flickering lights on the dash so something is not right there. The rear brake switch works fine. So who knows? He's getting a new dash/speedo assembly anyways as this one won't read past 20mph.
 
There has been some action behind the scenes.

I had a back order of CDIs and ran out of cases just as the metal manufacturer was doing another round (basically have a standing order where they keep X many on hand for me at this point) and about a week or two gap. They finally came end of September and made him a CDI as he needed one.

View attachment 38143

While that was off I noticed the ignition coil wires were facing the wrong way. Upon closer inspection the coil was upside down. Had to trim back wires to fix it. Looks better now.
View attachment 38145View attachment 38146View attachment 38147View attachment 38148

The other tail light was ONLY a tail light (no brake light) and it was wired wrong. It never worked. I fixed it, but then found out the light itself was only held in with a rubber grommet (?) so it fell out of course. Anyways, got something not as crappy, with three wires this time, drilled and got it mounted. Since this is a rat bike and for those going for the aesthetic take note... because things are getting chopped, "deleted", and lord knows what else stuff tends to just vibrate loose and disappears forever out onto the street. Get blue locktite, washer, locknut washer and the nut and put a stop to that. Blue will make it so you can get it apart again, but strong enough so things don't go flying out into traffic. Please do this to whoever is reading and is thinking about putting aftermarket stuff on their bike. Speaking from years of moped rat bike rally experience and the like.

View attachment 38149View attachment 38150

Yes I will do something about that hole where the harness is going. Need to come up with a grommet if possible. Otherwise, it's a rat bike, we can be half-assed with black RTV...

Since the tires are way too fat and they're over a decade expired he decided to go with the Shinko 712 Series 100/90/18 Front and Shinko 712 Series 130/90/16 Rear. This is the same setup ToniAnn had and it works fine. Tires came in. Local Honda dealer is very competitive with the prices you can get online with the shipping. Once I get reimbursed from the customer for the tires will drop the rims off to get that part done.

Will be working on the wiring this weekend and get that done and over with. I did notice the front brake switch only has one male terminal coming out of it. It does not appear to be broken so I assume it must use the ground on the handlebars to complete the circuit (real stupid). I tried to hook up a jumper to force the light to come on from the handlebars but started shorting out/flickering lights on the dash so something is not right there. The rear brake switch works fine. So who knows? He's getting a new dash/speedo assembly anyways as this one won't read past 20mph.
The CDi boxes look like nice cases.
This poor old bike looks like it's been through a few Winters outside around plenty of salt.
You keep plugging-away at it and improving what came to you originally,which was a real mess.
 
Well it still has the rat look, but being more reliable and safer. Something I would do if I ever decided to make a rat bike. The biggest issue is with the salt as you mentioned. He has intentions to keep it in a garage once he gets it back. A good thing because salt has really done a number on it.
 
View attachment 37079

Took the caliper apart, cleaned the whole thing with soapy water including seals, forced air dried, brass wire wheel with dremel in seal area, clean again, then reassembled it all. He had the wrong length bolts and they were allens for the mounts. Fixed that too. DOT5 conversion complete and the brakes are very nice in performance.

I will say that two piston calipers are a bit more annoying. I do know that you have to alternate between them both, but even so. I had to get one out to find the height then push it back in slightly enough that i could remove it with my fingers and then pop the other one out. Had to try that method twice, but it did come out. I have a caliper piston tool like this, but smaller:
View attachment 37080
If you're doing a fair amount of brake work it's worth getting one. Yes, you could use a c-clamp with a piece of wood or some metal spacer, but I like how this tool just fits right in there and does what it needs to do.
I have that tool and I just used it to push the dual pistons back together into the caliper. The front end on mine just caught the outside of the twin pistons, although a piece of wood would give you equal pressure across both pistons.

I still needed a hot soak at 60 degrees C in the ultrasonic though to release them from the caliper with compressed air.
 
Careful. You might get it too clean. He’ll lose all his street cred.
 
I have that tool and I just used it to push the dual pistons back together into the caliper. The front end on mine just caught the outside of the twin pistons, although a piece of wood would give you equal pressure across both pistons.

I still needed a hot soak at 60 degrees C in the ultrasonic though to release them from the caliper with compressed air.
Compressed air is incredibly dangerous. They can literally shoot out like a bullet. Never do this. They make special tools for removing stuck pistons and if that tool does not work compressed air probably isn't either OR if you can even get it then the inside is probably so nasty as to not be usable.

Seriously, don't use compressed air.

Careful. You might get it too clean. He’ll lose all his street cred.
Lol.
 
I use the front brake (Full) master cyl. to pump the pistons out hydraulically.
The safe and practically every OEM recommended way of doing it.

Let's pretend lines are rotted, master cylinder is a removable reservoir with leaky o-ring, etc. then use a special tool to remove the piston. They sell them on Amazon. OTC makes one (never tried it) but there's other cheaper brands out there too: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4799-Piston-Removal-Locking/dp/B009S4SZ3S/

Seriously, don't want anyone here getting hurt. This is to me is on the same level as the guy who stands in front of the frame rack while putting 10-20T pulling pressure to bend a frame back into shape, while looking at the chain twisting and is hitting the button once or twice more... with no rubber tarp over the chains as a safety barrier.
 
Compressed air is incredibly dangerous. They can literally shoot out like a bullet. Never do this. They make special tools for removing stuck pistons and if that tool does not work compressed air probably isn't either OR if you can even get it then the inside is probably so nasty as to not be usable.

Seriously, don't use compressed air.


Lol.
I have never had an issue, since I take careful measures to remove the pistons. Wooden paint stick to catch and cushion the pistons and rags to completely wrap the caliper and mitigate any spray and flying parts.I wouldn’t suggest others do it.

Bill’s suggestion only works if you have a working caliper. A grease gun can also be used to apply pressure to pump out the piston from the caliper too. I only used that once as it is quite a mess afterward.

With seriously stuck pistons and a seized master cylinder it works for me. The special tool looks interesting yet on frozen pistons you will still require heat for assistance. Like the special tool for removing the C clip in the master cylinder. I fabricated my own set of C clip pliers that actually work.

Thanks for the link to the tool though it looks rugged enough.
 
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OK. It sounds like you're trying to take precautions. Most guys out there are just setting the compressor regulator to 90psi and holding until it pops out without thinking. So dangerous.

Grease method sounds like it would work quite well, but yeah there's mess.

Honestly, if it's that far gone that it's totally seized usually it looks pretty nasty on the outside and I just source another one. Might make sense if you can't get a good deal on a used functioning caliper to go the extra mile to try and save the seized one.
 
Wires are not soldered, just twisted to test and to demonstrate the light. I spent some time in the evening threading up a new harness through the fairly rusted wire organizer on the bottom of the rear fender.

Just the running light.
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With brake light applied. Yes it looks about the same level of blinding brightness, but I assure you it's even more blinding with the brake light on.
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