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69 k1 350 Shift return assembly issues

SamN350

Well-known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2020
Total Posts
60
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0
Location
Salt Lake City UT United States of America
Hey All,
I may have brought this up in the older site or maybe even this one. I've always had trouble with this assembly. https://imgur.com/gallery/F8IX1UO

The screw under my thumb and the bolt just to the right of it have always given me trouble. If I torque them down, it feels like the shifter lever is fighting it too hard, So I always put the whole thing back together with then JUST shy of torqued, but then they rattle loose which in turn results in slopping shifting.

What am I doing wrong?
 
In your video, I can't clearly see the other end of the spring-loaded detent roller where it bolts to the upper case. If there are any pissing parts on that other end it can cause issues, VHT member Ribrickulous had that issue and discovered the stopper collar (#13 below) was missing so when he tightened the bolt it angled the detent roller assembly and caused it to bind. Otherwise it looks as if you have it assembled correctly

honda-cb350k2-super-sport-1970-usa-shift-drumshift-fork_bighu0028e4016_e3db.jpg
 
I worked on a bike with a similar issue, may have been the same year but can't confirm.

When i I got it the screw and series of parts were an odd assortment of parts that weren't stock. It worked but there was excessive and noticeable wear in the #7 finger piece that slides around.
I replaced them with stock parts and the shifting started to bind. It would work fine when slightly loose, similar to you.

I asked the the owner whether he wanted to proceed with the odd assortment, that seemed to work fine, or use stock parts but locktite the screw. We ended up locktite the screw (and maybe also adding a thin washer to provide additional clearance)and no shifting issues after that.
 
Yes on 23 but I don't recall 24.
24 has come loose on another bike I worked on, and I'm not sure those circumstances.

If you can get a washer for the parts that fit on 23 then that would be good, too
 
Rather than doing the LocTite thing which is a band aide repair how about using fresh pieces? Numbers 7, 9, 10, 11, 27 and 33. It'll be couple of days before I can disassemble the K1 engine I have if you want to do this.
 
#24 has to be tight. There were issues with some K5 screws backing out, had one that happened to.

Parts #13 and 19 are sometimes worn or bent. Also if the washer isn't correct it will cause issues. I have flipped the washer over and solved minor binding issues.

If the wheel on the arm is worn/sloppy on it's pivot it will take extra effort to shift.
 
ancientdad said:
In your video, I can't clearly see the other end of the spring-loaded detent roller where it bolts to the upper case. If there are any pissing parts on that other end it can cause issues, VHT member Ribrickulous had that issue and discovered the stopper collar (#13 below) was missing so when he tightened the bolt it angled the detent roller assembly and caused it to bind. Otherwise it looks as if you have it assembled correctly

View attachment 7672
Click to expand...

I don’t remember if it was 13 or 19, but one of them was missing - I feel like you remember this better than I do.

It took a bit to figure out but knock on wood it’s been smooth shifting ever since. If I recall the screw in the end of the shift drum is now torqued down well and tight, and I still have smooth shifting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ribrickulous said:
I don’t remember if it was 13 or 19, but one of them was missing - I feel like you remember this better than I do.

It took a bit to figure out but knock on wood it’s been smooth shifting ever since. If I recall the screw in the end of the shift drum is now torqued down well and tight, and I still have smooth shifting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I can't recall exactly either, but I know you were missing one of them and if I had to guess I think it was actually the #19 washer, and #13 was upside down bolted against the upper case so without the washer it pulled the shift detent assembly too close to the case and caused it to bind. That's what I was wondering about with the OP's situation
 
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