• Don't overlook our Welcome Package, it contains many links to important and helpful information about functions at VHT like posting pictures and sending PMs (private messages), as well as finding the parts you need.

    AD

1971 CL450 that sat for 40 years.

Hello everyone, I am proud to say that I am now the proud owner of a NOS CL450K4 exhaust.

I got in touch with a ‘NOS’ vintage parts collector on a Facebook group. He lives in Washington and had just purchased eight pallets of ‘NOS’ parts from a collector in Florida to list on his eBay store. These parts range across all motorcycle brands from the 70’s/80’s.

He found my exact exhaust in the stack and touched it up a little bit with #0000 steel wool, nothing too aggressive. He claims the current rust is from storage, which I haven’t had a reason to doubt. I can’t smell any carbon/smoke in the pipes.

8F812E00-1BE7-4B83-B658-EC4867F32C82.jpeg
C1FBFD16-53C2-4931-9562-D228671D2160.jpeg
7721D9AB-0E70-46E2-9D24-86D2B8BBF478.jpeg
E69F2080-6844-4576-8C6A-76959223FE27.jpeg
92DBA762-248B-46CD-9FC9-51B200AB0198.jpeg
1484B027-1D6C-4625-8773-66B988C5B9DD.jpeg
I will have to transfer over a few parts from my original exhaust. These include a muffler tip, top hanger bracket, lower hanger bracket, and the heat shield. Is there also a graphite gasket that connects the top pipe to the muffler?

Now the big question, should I send it off for re-chrome since it’s carbon free? Me personally I would just like to clean the surface rust a bit more and then roll with it. Wouldn’t hurt to get a quote though I suppose.

Also I mentioned to him about Honda tank badges, mine saying “317” on the back. These are very hard to find on eBay, almost non-existent. He found a ‘NOS’ one in the stack he purchased and an old used one his collection. I purchased those as well. Pegs are in-tact!

04A765F9-4D2A-4D16-B6A1-AC2A6A347327.jpeg
 
Hello everyone just wanted to give a little update. Between the ice storms, having the flu, and maybe a little bit of sheer laziness, the project came to a halt. But it’s picking up again!

I had never gotten around to checking why the rear brake light didn’t work. The running light does work though. Turns out I’m missing the spring that connects to the brake lever.

21612B02-F77D-4508-8DAC-7C370956AB6B.jpeg
AFAC151D-7B94-4C58-BE74-88ABE97101E7.png

It took me a while to find the diagram, as this one was listed under “Battery”. Is there a way I could test if I need a new rear switch or not? Maybe hook a spring on the switch and pull downward? Debating whether to get a spring, or the whole switch.

And as ancientdad has pointed out before, there are incorrectly sized motor mount bolts in the picture.

Also, I found a patch of original paint on the underside of the fuel tank that I picked at for a moment. This would believe me that the tank used to be Strato Blue Metallic. Maybe the red contrast is messing with me, but this color looks more teal than that. Does this look like it would have been a color off of a different model?

2C06C66E-C33F-41B3-B27E-D9D4485C47EF.jpeg


I have also purchased two chrome fenders off of eBay that I am in the process of cleaning up. I wanted to get away from the painted fenders, and make the bike my own. Also restore some originality. They are turning out pretty good. I cleaned the rust on the underneath as much as I could, then applied rust reformer, then rubber undercoating. It was a fun time using a 500 RPM cheap drill with a wire wheel, with a combo of naval jelly. I bought and put in two new rubber grommets for the rear finder wires.

I considered having them sandblasted, but the shop is open the same time as my work schedule. Also considered Bilt Hamber Deox-C, but it looks like only the gel version is available.
EFB5633D-D55C-4407-B3CA-EE0F4F3BF805.jpeg
5FE40BC4-16D9-4B2D-9E5A-24107C27BE7C.jpeg
BE3F30B5-C74F-4C6C-ADA4-86D572AC5BF4.jpeg
B95EE0A2-C3C3-4EA6-BABD-FFB9E02C03E2.jpeg
328CDCD7-9307-45F9-A53D-B444C9EEFE51.jpeg

New side cover emblems!
861DE674-2115-41CB-9088-6C81E9E1EBD7.jpeg

Other than that, I am going to reclean the fuel tank, as I have found more rust particles in the carbs that were causing a fluctuating idle.
 
Take a pick or skinny piece of stiff wire and slip it into the hole for the spring on the brake light switch, then pull down. With the key on (and the kill switch off, of course, to save your coils) the brake light should come on when you pull down on thew shaft of the switch.

Rear fender looks great, that's a win. The blue under the red is probably the original Strato Blue. Most people are lazy when it comes to surface prep, especially on the underside of a tank, so it should clean off pretty easily so you can see more of it.
 
Well, now I'm trying to find a new Deox-C supplier in the US. The Clean Garage is selling off remaining stock and not reordering.


To:[email protected]
Thu 2/8/2024 10:35 AM

Hi Jim, we will no longer be carrying Bilt Hamber on our website once we are sold out of our current stock.

Best Regards,
Jimmy
The Clean Garage Sales Team

5619 Tilghman Street
Allentown, PA 18104
www.Clean-Garage.com
 
Here was the front fender

046ADA3F-770C-4A76-91B4-D36E655E3D8B.jpeg
46B4C65B-4207-493E-962F-E35EFE30A7CF.jpeg

I was not the most excited when I received the fender, as light brought out a lot tiny rust pitting. The pictures on eBay had low lighting. But I decided to roll with it and start scrubbing, as decent condition fenders are hard to come by.

F86BAE09-A70E-4DFE-A45B-515B394B39FE.jpeg
My border collie Trixie trying to steal the show!
769A3778-DDEC-472A-A5D5-68ECF737D8EC.jpeg
1E367EB4-8550-4AB6-B7AF-FC3114CF2AFE.jpeg

I will need to have a hole drilled for the other fender grommet, to fully convert it to a 450 fender. Me and ancientdad discussed this issue previously. My CB750 front forks have diagonal bolt holes, and won’t accept the horizontal CL450 fender bolts. A CL350 fender is diagonal and should work.
 
Well, now I'm trying to find a new Deox-C supplier in the US. The Clean Garage is selling off remaining stock and not reordering.


To:[email protected]
Thu 2/8/2024 10:35 AM

Hi Jim, we will no longer be carrying Bilt Hamber on our website once we are sold out of our current stock.

Best Regards,
Jimmy
The Clean Garage Sales Team

5619 Tilghman Street
Allentown, PA 18104
www.Clean-Garage.com

Good luck on your search. I hate I missed the window to order some. I’ve seen the results on previous posts, definitely more affordable than Evaporust etc
 
Those fenders are perfectly nice for a bike that will be ridden — any shinier and you might end up with something you can't ride.

I have to keep reminding myself that most cleaning/polishing isn’t going to be perfect, and that I’m not entering the bike into a show or anything. The bike is going to develop more bruises and nicks, but hopefully at a minimum!
 
With the fender as it is I'd be tempted to put some sort of coating on the chrome to seal all the pits away from humidity. Maybe even car polish? I'm sure someone knows of a perfect product.
 
With the fender as it is I'd be tempted to put some sort of coating on the chrome to seal all the pits away from humidity. Maybe even car polish? I'm sure someone knows of a perfect product.

This was the last polish I hit the chrome with. Really good stuff for cleaning/shining. It claims it protects, but I’m open minded to other products as well

 
I have to keep reminding myself that most cleaning/polishing isn’t going to be perfect, and that I’m not entering the bike into a show or anything. The bike is going to develop more bruises and nicks, but hopefully at a minimum!
You may as well go at it with the aluminum foil ball and cocacola. Might get a wee bit more off.
 
You can use oxalic acid to remove the rust (1-3% in water). It works well, very well on rusted chrome parts, and easy to get. It's used by beekeepers, thus readily available. However, it's acid, so be very careful and wear glasses, gloves and protect your skin and do it outside. Let the parts take a bath for a few hours, and rinse with water.
 
You can use oxalic acid to remove the rust (1-3% in water). It works well, very well on rusted chrome parts, and easy to get. It's used by beekeepers, thus readily available. However, it's acid, so be very careful and wear glasses, gloves and protect your skin and do it outside. Let the parts take a bath for a few hours, and rinse with water.

Do acid-based cleaners have a negative effect on chrome?
 
I don't know about other acid based cleaners, but oxalic based cleaners seems to keep the chrome nice (from experience). However, rinse with lots of water, and protect the chrome.

Derusting with oxalic acid :

Oxalic acid is sold as a white powder.
The usual strength is a solution of 10 grams in 100 ml of demineralized water, which gives a 10% solution. Oxalic acid dissolves faster in lukewarm to warm water.

With oxalic acid Fe 3+ reduces to Fe 2+ and forms complex salts. The rust removal process also causes a yellow precipitate and if lime is present in the water this forms the insoluble calcium oxalate.

By adding some aluminum to the solution, this reduces the formation of yellow precipitate. This product works very well when the solution is heated, but toxic fumes are also released with this acid. Oxalic acid is a toxic product, either by mouth, inhalation or penetration through the skin. When using oxalic acid, you must absolutely follow all safety precautions! Wear gloves, glasses, do not smoke, eat or drink. You should not use oxalic acid with silver minerals. Silver oxalate can be formed and that is an explosive product

Rinse with plenty of water and remove the yellow precipitate with tartaric acid.

Derusting with citric acid:

Citric acid is an acid found in lemons and other citrus fruits, it is available as a white crystalline powder. This is a weak acid and the least toxic of the acids for rust removal. Citric acid, like oxalic acid, also forms complex salts, which is why it also forms “nasty yellow products” like oxalic acid. The acid is extremely soluble in water, because you need a lot of this acid, the costs can be quite high, the big advantage is the low danger. Warming up speeds up the action and is therefore recommended.
 
Last edited:
Good luck on your search. I hate I missed the window to order some. I’ve seen the results on previous posts, definitely more affordable than Evaporust etc
There's a new supplier, Obsessed Garage, according to the email from Pete Hamber this morning. Looking at the website doesn't show any products yet but I'm sure that'll get updated. https://www.obsessedgarage.com/
 
Hello everyone, currently in the process of re-cleaning the gas tank and I noticed an issue.

Whenever the gas cap is latched shut, fuel will still leak from underneath the gas cap. It is a brand new reproduction gas cap with a new seal. When I press firmly down on the gas cap with my palm, it will fully seal, but of course it will go back to its loose position when I remove pressure. Could it be possible that the locking latch is old and worn out? Thanks.
 
That is what they do because of the venting function. I seal the opening with aluminum foil tape (HVAC supply) to clean it.

Huh. Interesting. Whenever I have “sloshed” the tank around with vinegar etc, it always comes running out from the cap.

Would aluminum foil tape hold a seal if I let the tank soak upside down?
 
Huh. Interesting. Whenever I have “sloshed” the tank around with vinegar etc, it always comes running out from the cap.

Would aluminum foil tape hold a seal if I let the tank soak upside down?
Yep, for a few days. I'd put it in a tub, to be safe. I found a storage tote that it fit in.
 
New update: Got the tank spotless, and then re-cleaned the carbs. Threw everything together and the engine is running great. I took it for a shortly timed 1st gear ride in the backyard.

Issue #1: Once I got the bike shifted into 1st gear, it was near impossible to shift out of it.

When I first got the bike, the clutch lever was extremely tight. Almost required two hands to engage it. I loosened the cable up quite a bit to fix this, but probably too much. I tightened it back a little bit and the bike started shifting better, but not perfect. I didn’t want to force the gear shifter and damage anything.

Issue #2: The gear shifter has about a 1/4in of play moving left to right. The spline/rod that connects to the pedal. AD recently mentioned that it could be the circlip & washer missing underneath the front sprocket cover.

I had posted this photo before when we were trying to diagnose a leak. Turned out to be the seal on the left, which I replaced. Would this photo give evidence of those pieces missing?

IMG_8041.jpeg

Also, not sure if it helps, but here is a picture of the right crank case the first week I got the bike.

IMG_7455.jpeg
 
Last edited:
This pic does not show the circlip and washer, you should not be able to see the shift shaft seal as the washer covers it.

1711387517372.png

Also, is that an o-ring chain? If it is, it will rub the clutch lifter arm where the cable attaches in the front sprocket cover because of the extra width of the chain when they use o-rings to seal lube in the link pins. When you pull the clutch lever (which, BTW, disengages the clutch, not engages) the threaded lifter mechanism in the front sprocket cover twists outward to push the clutch rod, and the end of the arm where the cable connects moves toward the chain. The extra width of an o-ring chain takes up the clearance and the chain rubs the lifter arm when the clutch lever is pulled. It can and will ruin the end of the arm if ridden that way for a while, and those lifter arms are close to NLA status.
 
This pic does not show the circlip and washer, you should not be able to see the shift shaft seal as the washer covers it.

Gotcha. I’ll get the circlip and washer ordered. Looks like there are a few choices on eBay thankfully. For this particular part of the bike, I already have bought a new front sprocket, the seal behind the sprocket, and a DID530 100 link chain(to be cut down to 92). Have not had them installed yet.

As far as circlip and washer install goes, is there a groove on the shift shaft where they go? Would I be pulling the slack of the shaft out, or pushing in for the placement?

Also, is that an o-ring chain?

Yes I believe it was previously identified as an o-ring chain.

and those lifter arms are close to NLA status.

Would it be worth looking to swap those out as well?
 
As far as circlip and washer install goes, is there a groove on the shift shaft where they go? Would I be pulling the slack of the shaft out, or pushing in for the placement?
The clip holds the shaft from moving inward from that side (bike's left), so you want to pull the shaft toward you as far as it will come. The clip groove is probably inside the seal right now. You should clean that area well so you can see the clip groove easily, and consider replacing the seal first before putting the washer and circlip in place. AND, there's a flat side and a rounded side on those circlips because of how they're made. You want the flat side facing outwards, it helps keep the circlip locked in the groove against outside pressure pushing the shift shaft inward.
Yes I believe it was previously identified as an o-ring chain.
Wasn't sure but I thought it had been discussed.
Would it be worth looking to swap those out as well?
There's only one, I said it in terms of finding one of 'them' if yours got ripped up by the chain width. Inspect yours first, but you've already had that cover off and I'd guess we might have talked about it. If the area where the clutch cable end locks into the lifter arm is kinda shredded you'll know right away when you look at it. If yours doesn't look like this below, or only a slightly damaged version of it like mine is (but usable), then post a picture of it so we can decide if you want to spend the big bucks for a good one.

thread-clutch_big22810283000-02_260f.jpg
 
and consider replacing the seal first before putting the washer and circlip in place.
Will the shaft have to be removed for this seal to be replaced? Or can it be gently pried loose and slid down the shaft?


This is the last photo I found of the clutch cover. Probably can’t tell much with the 40 year old gunk in the way.

IMG_8063.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Will the shaft have to be removed for this seal to be replaced? Or can it be gently pried loose and slid down the shaft?
Removing the shaft would make it a bit easier but not necessary. If you feel confident you can thread a drywall screw into the middle area of the seal between the outer edge and the shaft, that's one way to make pulling the seal easier and safer for the shaft sealing surface.
This is the last photo I found of the clutch cover. Probably can’t tell much with the 40 year old gunk in the way
Actually the lifter arm looks decent for its age and that chain being on there, you got lucky.
 
Actually the lifter arm looks decent for its age and that chain being on there, you got lucky.
Awesome. That’s great news. I saw that used
ones go for a minimum of $65 on eBay. And this also means no more 10 min drives around the backyard. Haha

Removing the shaft would make it a bit easier but not necessary

If I have trouble with the drywall screw method, I’ll take the shaft out. I would be interested to know how that would be done. I’m assuming take the right crankcase cover off.
 
I’m assuming take the right crankcase cover off.
Yep, and the clutch and oil pump too, both of which cover the shift shaft and keep you from just pulling it out when you take the cover off. If you plan to replace the pizza cutter at the same time the extra effort would be worth it.
 
Yep, and the clutch and oil pump too, both of which cover the shift shaft and keep you from just pulling it out when you take the cover off. If you plan to replace the pizza cutter at the same time the extra effort would be worth it.

After searching through the transmission related diagrams, I think I found said pizza roller.

 
After searching through the transmission related diagrams, I think I found said pizza roller.
Dude, you don't roll pizza, you cut it :ROFLMAO:

Yes, that's one option for you, or you could PM @12ozPBR and have him refurbish yours. At the price of that one from eBay you might as well just buy it, if you have Chris do yours he needs it in advance so you'd be without one for a few days.
 
Dude, you don't roll pizza, you cut it :ROFLMAO:

Yes, that's one option for you, or you could PM @12ozPBR and have him refurbish yours. At the price of that one from eBay you might as well just buy it, if you have Chris do yours he needs it in advance so you'd be without one for a few days.

Are there any efficient ways to 100% know if mine is sloppy? I’m assuming you can’t visibly see it with the right crankcase cover off. And by the time I got to it, I’d have wished I had a new one in my hand lol

Edit: Well i’m sure it would be a good preventative measure if anything
 
Last edited:
Actually, you can see it with just the cover removed, but you can't properly replace it without removing the clutch and oil pump (which have to removed as a pair, you'll see why once you start). This is the level of slop most have, and some are worse than this. And note, this one in the video is mine and I have video evidence of it happening at least twice during the Copperhead Loop ride that Chris and I did in 2019.

 
When I first got the bike, it came with a fairly heavy box of spare parts. No telling which parts actually came off of the bike. I spread them out and took a picture.

Whenever I have something unusual to order, I’ll scan through the pic I took.

Check out what I just spotted in the bottom left:

IMG_8744.png

Pizza cutter!

IMG_7344.jpeg
 
I didn't know you could use a flash drive to update a 450... cool.

I'd check that detent roller very closely, hard to believe it's in a box (undoubtedly used) and would be in new condition. Most used ones are already worn enough that I wouldn't use one only to have to pull it out later.

The alternator harness stay directly above that shorter section of chain is interesting, I wonder if your engine has one? Directly above the lever is the star part of the detent mechanism that goes on the end of the shift drum, and you should look at it to see how much wear the tips of the 'star' have. It might be the old one that was changed along with the pizza cutter, which could mean they changed both (and might tell you about the true condition of the pizza cutter too). Nice mix of hardware there, blue screws, drywall screws, Honda metric screws and bolts.... oh, and that spark plug is NOT to be used in your bike. :ROFLMAO:
 
I didn't know you could use a flash drive to update a 450... cool.
Haha. I actually plugged them into my PC. Either I was going to get a virus, or solve a murder. Neither happened. Two had manuals for heavy warehouse machinery, and one was some dudes vacation photos on the beach lol.

It definitely has similar sloppiness that yours had in your video, even though you had the benefit of using a vice.


IMG_8747.jpeg

Now it will just have to serve its purpose on my keychain, seeing that I actually do manage a pizza restaurant lol.
 
Haha. I actually plugged them into my PC. Either I was going to get a virus, or solve a murder. Neither happened. Two had manuals for heavy warehouse machinery, and one was some dudes vacation photos on the beach lol.

It definitely has similar sloppiness that yours had in your video, even though you had the benefit of using a vice.


View attachment 31004

Now it will just have to serve its purpose on my keychain, seeing that I actually do manage a pizza restaurant lol.
DavidSilverSpares.com sold me one of those pizza cutters (they call it a Stopper, Shift Drum) for $6.50. No reason to wonder about the old one.
 
DavidSilverSpares.com sold me one of those pizza cutters (they call it a Stopper, Shift Drum) for $6.50. No reason to wonder about the old one.
Unfortunately it looks as though DavidSilver discontinued them. They range on eBay from $49.99 to $112.99. Figured it would be worth a shot!
 
DavidSilverSpares.com sold me one of those pizza cutters (they call it a Stopper, Shift Drum) for $6.50. No reason to wonder about the old one.
They're different for your Bomber Bob, smaller diameter roller and more available. I bought some neutral stoppers by mistake once because I glanced and thought the price was really cheap.
 
Crazy what some people lose track of and ends up with other stuff they give away, he'll be wondering where those beach vacation pics went.
Now it will just have to serve its purpose on my keychain, seeing that I actually do manage a pizza restaurant lol.
That's crazy... and very appropriate.

And yes, they're obviously not called pizza cutters by Honda, it's just a nickname that's been thrown around for a while on forums because of the slight resemblance.
 
Gotcha. I’ll get the circlip and washer ordered. Looks like there are a few choices on eBay thankfully. For this particular part of the bike, I already have bought a new front sprocket, the seal behind the sprocket, and a DID530 100 link chain(to be cut down to 92). Have not had them installed yet.

As far as circlip and washer install goes, is there a groove on the shift shaft where they go? Would I be pulling the slack of the shaft out, or pushing in for the placement?



Yes I believe it was previously identified as an o-ring chain.



Would it be worth looking to swap those out as well?
Yo - those parts are available at any Honda Auto dealership, they're used in the manual transmissions from 90's to 2010 Civics and Accords. Get extras, they're only .27-.45 each. There is a groove there - press the lever in from the other side (or you can firmly pull with your fingers only (no pliers) on the lifter end and there will be a fine groove right about 1 mil out from the seal. Since it's missing, that may be crudded up, so it might take a touch with a small pick to clean out so that ring will stay. Mine kept popping out and creating these headaches due to a worn clip - a little surprising that the clutch functionality on this bike comes down to less than $1 worth of parts in a steel ball, a clip and a washer, but without all three that shift lever is going to be fighting you.

Edit to Add: When ordering from Honda Auto Dealers, there's something about a system that the majority of them use that flat out requires a VIN. I personally like to use a VIN from their own used inventory if they have one, otherwise, come prepared with one for a matching vehicle (just pull one on kbb.com or something).
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom